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Hardware and Case Mod's You Paint it, Cut it, Solder it, bend it, light it up, make it glow or anything like that, here is your forum. |
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06-30-2002, 02:59 PM | #1 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Davis, CA USA
Posts: 113
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what the ?!?! (painting problems)
Hi all!
Okay, I've been painting my side panel with Painter's Touch Rust-O-Leum glossy black spray paint. So I've been doing this panel for 3 WEEKS!!!!!!!!!! The problem I have is that the stupid paint keeps on bubbling up or turning wrinkly. I did allow PLENTY of time for the panel to dry after wet sanding (2 days of drying). I used automotive primer. What's going on?!?!?! Help please! I already finished the other side panel 2 weeks ago! |
06-30-2002, 03:31 PM | #2 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: michigan
Posts: 48
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hmm try some enamel paint thatswhat i would do
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06-30-2002, 08:12 PM | #3 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Davis, CA USA
Posts: 113
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can you reccomend any specific brands or types?
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06-30-2002, 09:37 PM | #4 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Silver Spring, MD
Posts: 282
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i suspect u are not shaking ur can well. I personally use the Rust-Oleum Performance glossy black. And used the regular rust-oleum for the clear gloss. Just chill out and dont be too close to the panel. If you are, the bubbles will reach the panel itself. Just apply a steady pressure and move slowly across the panel. Thats what i did. Took me a while to get it right but in the end it did not end up as shiny as beav's no idea why. It took me a week to get the side panel right. I think thats all i'm gonna be painting since its such a pain in the arse. I might do the other door if i got nuff time to play around. Currently i'm working on my LCDs.
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06-30-2002, 09:39 PM | #5 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Silver Spring, MD
Posts: 282
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btw- i got it from Home Depot. Although i suggest u look around several home depots to find it. The dont stock the performance cans as much as they stack the crappy kind.
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06-30-2002, 10:16 PM | #6 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Davis, CA USA
Posts: 113
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Thanks! I'll look into that in couple of days, after I sand all of the crap off.
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07-01-2002, 01:36 PM | #7 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Silver Spring, MD
Posts: 282
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oh yeah, u need better sand paper than the 600. I wasnt even satisfied with the 220 grit. It doesnt take of bubbles and bumps.
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07-01-2002, 09:47 PM | #8 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: May 2002
Location: SC
Posts: 68
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Were you using primer first? If you wernt then definatly try that. It sounds like the paint doesnt have anything to stick to, so when it contracts when its drying it is forming bubbles.
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07-01-2002, 10:20 PM | #9 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Davis, CA USA
Posts: 113
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I did use primer (automotive kind). Well I'm not too concerned about bubbles. I'm more concerned with the wrinkling effect because the "wrinkles" go into the paint rather than puffing above. So basically my panel looks like leather (definitely not what I was going for). It's weird.
I'll sand in a day or two when it gets below 100 degrees where I live. Thanks! |
07-02-2002, 04:17 PM | #10 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Davis, CA USA
Posts: 113
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I had a thought while I was sanding. Is it possible to sand down the paint TOO smoothly? I was curious because I would use the 1500 grit right before I put on the clear coat and the clear coat wrinkled afterwards.
Should I only sand up to 600 grit before repainting? |
07-02-2002, 04:25 PM | #11 |
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600 should be plenty.
The only reason that you sand so fine in the first place, is to get rid of any imperfections, because any scratches will show up through the paint. I've done some painting on my old car, and a wet 400 orbital sander gave me good enuf results. The paint covered the rest. |
07-03-2002, 10:53 AM | #12 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: KS
Posts: 374
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It sounds like your paint is crazing from trying to adhere to an incompatable chemical. You need to clean the panels with de-natured alcohol before painting to make absolutely sure they are clean.
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07-03-2002, 01:51 PM | #13 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Davis, CA USA
Posts: 113
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Well, I have incredibly BAD timing. I just finished spraying my panel and now I wish I had read MeltMan's post before I did because it STILL is wrinkling up! GRRRRRRRRR!
Oh well, another couple of days lost. So, where can I find de-natured alcohol? Thanks for the posts! I'll let you guys know how it turns out in a couple of days after I re-sand the bugger. |
07-03-2002, 03:00 PM | #14 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: KS
Posts: 374
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Hardware store... You are using the same kind of paint for each layer right? Are you wetsanding with soap between coats? Cause that would cause a nice leather effect...
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07-03-2002, 03:16 PM | #15 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Davis, CA USA
Posts: 113
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DOH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I was using some soap earlier when I was wet sanding! But that was last week! I stopped using it a while ago, but the bucket I use to wet sand in may still have some soap residue!!!!! Thanks!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I better clean that bucket! Thank you! Thank you! Thank you! Thank you! Thank you! Thank you! Thank you! Thank you! Thank you! Thank you! |
07-03-2002, 03:20 PM | #16 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: KS
Posts: 374
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No prob... wet paint and soap are like worst enemies.
I want pics.
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07-03-2002, 05:10 PM | #17 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Silver Spring, MD
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i never use soap. I just dry sand it and rinse it well before the next coat. Why does wet sanding work better?
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07-03-2002, 05:43 PM | #18 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Davis, CA USA
Posts: 113
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MeltMan: would the de-natured alcohol also remove any left over soap residue as well?
Sonix: I'm not sure why wet sanding works better. I'm pretty sure it has to do with the type of sandpaper you're using. Also I think that the water reduces the amount of friction between the sandpaper and the paint. Usually, I only see people dry sand if they want to remove paint/rust/whatever and wet sand to get things smooth. That's what I just see though. |
07-03-2002, 05:58 PM | #19 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Davis, CA USA
Posts: 113
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pics
Here's some pics of the crappy panel I was trying to paint:
wrinkling sucks. Let's compare to the other side panel I painted 1 month ago: Big difference huh? |
07-05-2002, 02:47 PM | #20 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: KS
Posts: 374
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Wet sanding is done for a couple of reasons.... First being that it allows your paper to last longer. When you sand with really high grits (600 or higher), the paper tends to stick to the sandlings making this nice layer of poop on your paper and rendering it useless. The soap is added for a little lubrication, so that you slide easier. The second reason is that the water tends to create a sort of suction between the sanding block and the panel making for a flatter smoother surface.
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07-09-2002, 04:11 AM | #21 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Dallas, Tx
Posts: 469
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i think its time to hose that panel down with paint remover and start over.
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07-11-2002, 07:51 PM | #22 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: AK
Posts: 246
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MeltMan is right on the wetsanding, but dont just use any soap. some saops have detergents can leave residue in the paint ans you sand, or even as you wash. Different paints can absorb different detergents, even different levels of the smae brand and type of paint. i.e. using palmolive concentrate with out lemon on rustoleum premium high gloss laquer enamal works fine, but using it on the cheap 1.99 white can high gloss laquer enamal may cause blistering as you paint the next coat and will cause lifting after the paint has had time to cure and 'shrink' The silicon that they use to keep your hands from getting wrinkly doesnt mate well with the cheaper paint. The higher lever paint has an additive that sticks to the silicone ore something to that effect. The reason I got when I asked was that people will buy the better quality stuff when painting machinery and such. and machinery and such tends to have lubes on it that won't wash comepletly off. They could've been feeding me a line of shit so I keep buying the more expensive stuff, but there is a noticable difference in quality anyway.
Anyhow, my experience is to use 'No more Tears baby Shampoo' a couple of drops per gallon to wash with. I never use soap in the water to wet sand. The other reason to wetsand is dry sanding can leave large clups that can become as hard as the sand paper, but 'bigger' than the grit you are using. thus leaving unslightly marks in the paint. (I think there is another thread here with a more in depth paint guide) between color coats 600 is good. any higher and it may not be enough to grip. However, most clear coats are designed to grip really smooth surfaces. so after your last color coat you can go to 1000 or 1200 grit so you can get rid of some imperfections. but that high of a grit isn't really necc. I do think Hallis is right though, get a can of paint stripper clean really good and start from scratch, it may cost more in paint, but it'll save you money in sandpaper and elbow grease.
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07-12-2002, 01:30 AM | #23 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Davis, CA USA
Posts: 113
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Thanks for all of the replies!
I used the denatured alcohol (using it wasn't as bad as I thought) and the color coats seems to have stuck pretty well. I really won't know until tomorrow after I look at my sanding job in the light, but hopefully I should have the clear coat on by tomorrow. I'll keep you guys posted (no pics though because my friend borrowed the digicam). |
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