Opinions Wanted For This Block

Socko · 11-05-2003, 09:37 PM

This is what I'm thinking of getting made. The block will be 12mm thick, and the base of the block to the CPU will be 4mm thick. It will use three 1/2" OD barbs. I would appreciate any comments on how I can improve it (keep in mind i want it to be as free flowing as possible, because I will have northbridge, GPU, and hard drive blocks in the loop as well.

Socko · 11-05-2003, 09:38 PM

Here is the first pic.

Socko · 11-05-2003, 09:41 PM

And here is the second pic.

jaydee · 11-05-2003, 10:07 PM

2 Suggestions.

1) make the base a little thinner. Maybe 2-3mm. leave the overall thickness the same though. That will not only help the heat spread up the fins but also increase flow.

2) Not sure how to explain this... Make the square more oval... Round the corners to line up with the outlets grooves.... Hummm. I will draw it up real quick... be back in a minute.

pHaestus · 11-05-2003, 10:13 PM

I see what JayDee is saying. The O Ring groove you have now is gonna be a bitch to keep sealed with those sharp edges. Just use a half circle and things would be much easier I'd think.

jaydee · 11-05-2003, 10:55 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by pHaestus
I see what JayDee is saying. The O Ring groove you have now is gonna be a bitch to keep sealed with those sharp edges. Just use a half circle and things would be much easier I'd think.

Yes, that is half of it. The second half is the square 90 degree corners.

Here is what I mean. It should help smooth flow a little.

Socko · 11-05-2003, 11:23 PM

Ok, your responses seem like what i was expecting. I was thinking about the corners and wondering if they would stop the flow too much, so I'll change the setup to include rounded corners. With the O-rings though, I was going to file down the edges of the copper so that it can't cut the o-ring, but i guess i was wrong about that too. Thanks for the input guys.

jaydee · 11-05-2003, 11:29 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Socko
Ok, your responses seem like what i was expecting. I was thinking about the corners and wondering if they would stop the flow too much, so I'll change the setup to include rounded corners. With the O-rings though, I was going to file down the edges of the copper so that it can't cut the o-ring, but i guess i was wrong about that too. Thanks for the input guys.

It isn't so much the O-ring will get cut it just might not seal well unless the O-ring was molded to the design. Stock O-ring material doesn't like 90 degree turns. It prevents it from seating well.

Looks good though.

Socko · 11-06-2003, 01:21 PM

Ok, I made the recommended changes and came up with this. The outermost fins had their length reduced a tad just so that flow around the outer curves won't be restricted. Any other suggestions on how to make it better?

jaydee · 11-06-2003, 01:46 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Socko
Ok, I made the recommended changes and came up with this. The outermost fins had their length reduced a tad just so that flow around the outer curves won't be restricted. Any other suggestions on how to make it better?

That looks pretty good. How is the flow going to be? Middle inlet double out, or inlet on one side outlet on the other?

Socko · 11-06-2003, 03:36 PM

Middle in sides out with a Eheim 1250 probably. I just nead to figure out what the middle plate is going to look like now.

jaydee · 11-06-2003, 04:05 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Socko
Middle in sides out with a Eheim 1250 probably. I just nead to figure out what the middle plate is going to look like now.

yeah the middle plate will be a little tricky. It isn't going to be easy to get the water to flow into all the channels unless you use a 1" barb.

Socko · 11-06-2003, 10:43 PM

I decided to just go side in side out. The middle plate probably won't be able to distribute water to all the fins well enough, so I scrapped ideas for a third barb. I would remove some of the pins, but this block is for a Athlon 64, so I would prefer not to.

P.S. I already know that the holes don't match up with A64 boards, so I'm getting a Leadtek one that has the original 4 holes in the board.

Socko · 11-07-2003, 03:24 PM

I'm gonna have to redesign this block now for two reasons:
1. I decided to go with a Abit KT800 board, which doesn't have the 4 original holes in the mobo.
2. I found out that the Athlon 64 heatspreader is 40x40mm, so the current desing just won't cut it.

Does anyone know what AMD's "clear zone" is for socket 754 boards, and also how far the two hole on the board are (center to center)?

Socko · 11-08-2003, 12:01 AM

Ok, I revised the block quite a bit and also realized that I was not using 1/8" as a distance between fins, so I now have this:

Socko · 11-08-2003, 01:16 AM

And this complete assembly too. =)

Javascripterror · 11-09-2003, 02:57 AM

Yep that design is good. Already tested it on a P4 and it shakes the house. Need to look at your base dimensions though. I will leave you to work out why.

Socko · 11-13-2003, 04:09 PM

Why what?

Javascripterror · 11-13-2003, 04:17 PM

Stagger the width between fins. An example would be 1mm then 1.5 mm and so on across the fin width.

polo81 · 12-03-2003, 04:49 AM

i love it.....!!

8-Ball · 12-03-2003, 06:21 AM

That would make for a great peltier block, due to the large cooling area. Kind of like something I'm working on in the back of my mind, specifically for TEC use.

8-ball

Cathar · 12-03-2003, 06:42 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by 8-Ball
That would make for a great peltier block, due to the large cooling area. Kind of like something I'm working on in the back of my mind, specifically for TEC use.

8-ball

Indeed this design does lend itself well to peltier cooling:

The above block performs about 1C worse than a White Water for straight CPU use, but for TEC's it rules.

jaydee · 12-03-2003, 09:47 AM

I am sure your aware of tis Cathar but that looks similar to the Silver Prop Fusion.

http://forums.overclockers.com.au/sh...hreadid=229357

Cathar · 12-03-2003, 04:38 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by jaydee116
I am sure your aware of tis Cathar but that looks similar to the Silver Prop Fusion.

Doesn't surprise me in the slightest. I showed pictures of my first prototype back in December last year at OCAU. Those pictures were of the two later prototypes from May this year.

There's a definite recurring theme when it comes to Silverprop.

JFettig · 12-03-2003, 11:34 PM

Its sad, Some people just dont have any morals.

Theres a VERY good reason I dont post a lot of my work on the internet.

BTW cathar, I have a pelt block thats probably just as rockin as yours

for 226W pelts. or thats the max size(50mm)

I showed some frosty pictures, but none of the innards.

Jon

11-05-2003, 09:37 PM	#1
Socko Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Vineland, NJ Posts: 19	Opinions Wanted For This Block This is what I'm thinking of getting made. The block will be 12mm thick, and the base of the block to the CPU will be 4mm thick. It will use three 1/2" OD barbs. I would appreciate any comments on how I can improve it (keep in mind i want it to be as free flowing as possible, because I will have northbridge, GPU, and hard drive blocks in the loop as well. Last edited by Socko; 11-05-2003 at 09:44 PM.

11-05-2003, 10:07 PM	#4
jaydee Put up or Shut Up Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Spokane WA Posts: 6,506	2 Suggestions. 1) make the base a little thinner. Maybe 2-3mm. leave the overall thickness the same though. That will not only help the heat spread up the fins but also increase flow. 2) Not sure how to explain this... Make the square more oval... Round the corners to line up with the outlets grooves.... Hummm. I will draw it up real quick... be back in a minute. Last edited by jaydee116; 11-05-2003 at 10:56 PM.

12-03-2003, 04:49 AM	#20
polo81 Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: toulouse Posts: 8	i love it.....!! __________________ Vive l'été et les filles en maillot.........http://polo81.free.fr/

12-03-2003, 06:21 AM	#21
8-Ball Cooling Savant Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Oxford University, UK Posts: 452	That would make for a great peltier block, due to the large cooling area. Kind of like something I'm working on in the back of my mind, specifically for TEC use. 8-ball __________________ For those who believe that water needs to travel slowly through the radiator for optimum performance, read the following thread. READ ALL OF THIS!!!!

11-05-2003, 10:13 PM	#5
pHaestus Big Player Making Big Money Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: irc.lostgeek.com #procooling.com Posts: 4,782	I see what JayDee is saying. The O Ring groove you have now is gonna be a bitch to keep sealed with those sharp edges. Just use a half circle and things would be much easier I'd think.

11-05-2003, 11:23 PM	#7
Socko Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Vineland, NJ Posts: 19	Ok, your responses seem like what i was expecting. I was thinking about the corners and wondering if they would stop the flow too much, so I'll change the setup to include rounded corners. With the O-rings though, I was going to file down the edges of the copper so that it can't cut the o-ring, but i guess i was wrong about that too. Thanks for the input guys.

11-06-2003, 03:36 PM	#11
Socko Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Vineland, NJ Posts: 19	Middle in sides out with a Eheim 1250 probably. I just nead to figure out what the middle plate is going to look like now.

11-06-2003, 10:43 PM	#13
Socko Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Vineland, NJ Posts: 19	I decided to just go side in side out. The middle plate probably won't be able to distribute water to all the fins well enough, so I scrapped ideas for a third barb. I would remove some of the pins, but this block is for a Athlon 64, so I would prefer not to. P.S. I already know that the holes don't match up with A64 boards, so I'm getting a Leadtek one that has the original 4 holes in the board.

11-07-2003, 03:24 PM	#14
Socko Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Vineland, NJ Posts: 19	I'm gonna have to redesign this block now for two reasons: 1. I decided to go with a Abit KT800 board, which doesn't have the 4 original holes in the mobo. 2. I found out that the Athlon 64 heatspreader is 40x40mm, so the current desing just won't cut it. Does anyone know what AMD's "clear zone" is for socket 754 boards, and also how far the two hole on the board are (center to center)?

11-09-2003, 02:57 AM	#17
Javascripterror Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Australia Posts: 8	Yep that design is good. Already tested it on a P4 and it shakes the house. Need to look at your base dimensions though. I will leave you to work out why.

11-13-2003, 04:09 PM	#18
Socko Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Vineland, NJ Posts: 19	Why what?

11-13-2003, 04:17 PM	#19
Javascripterror Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Australia Posts: 8	Stagger the width between fins. An example would be 1mm then 1.5 mm and so on across the fin width.

12-03-2003, 11:34 PM	#25
JFettig Cooling Savant Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: Willmar MN/Fargo ND Posts: 504	Its sad, Some people just dont have any morals. Theres a VERY good reason I dont post a lot of my work on the internet. BTW cathar, I have a pelt block thats probably just as rockin as yours for 226W pelts. or thats the max size(50mm) I showed some frosty pictures, but none of the innards. Jon

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