Need opinion on a block design -Pics

[ZapWizard]

(image made in trueSpace3)

I am making a custom Athlon 64 and X800 XT PE waterblock for use in a custom small form factor case.
In this case I care more about aesthetics then block performance.

http://www.zapwizard.com/projects/wo...s/block_02.jpg

http://www.zapwizard.com/projects/wo...s/block_03.jpg

http://www.zapwizard.com/projects/wo...s/block_04.jpg

http://www.zapwizard.com/projects/wo...s/block_05.jpg

The block will be two 1/4" layers of copper, with simple square cut channels that are easy to cut with a dremel.

Note, the mounting hole layout is the same as a Socket 478, this is due the fact that I will be using a shuttle motherboard, yet the CPU will be an AMD Athlon 64.

I choose easy to find compression fittings that allow for either 3/8" OD x 1/4" ID copper tubing, or plastic tubing. (Small tubing as this will be a very compact case)

----------------------------------



http://www.zapwizard.com/projects/wo...I_Block_02.jpg

http://www.zapwizard.com/projects/wo...I_Block_03.jpg

The X800 waterblock will be made in a similar fashion, with 90 degree taps.
The extra curves are to avoid components on the PCB.
There will be shims to mate the copper with the front-side memory. The backside memory will still use the old heat-spreader.

[killernoodle]

Looks very nice. I'd like to see these beautiful CADs put to copper.

[DryFire]

definatly looks nice.

[ZapWizard]

I am checking into getting the outer areas water-cut, and the inner areas CNC'ed.



Here is the rendering of the entire PC setup as planned so far.
(Guts anyways)

I will be using two C-systems pumps (if I can find them), a Black-ice 120mm Radiator that is brushed to the bare brass.
The radiator will be modded to handle two inlets and two outlets, rather then using bulky splitters. Since the radiator is also the highest point I will be modded with an air-tap and filler to fill and bleed the system. (No res)

[killernoodle]

Due to the recent floodings of C-Systems pumps failing (pun intended), I'd go ahead and go for the new laing pumps. They are just as small and far more reliable. One should do the trick.

[ZapWizard]

I was planning on trying their new Mag pump once it's out.

On laing pumps do you mean like this one?
http://www.dangerdenstore.com/produc...5&cat=0&page=1

They are small, but they are also so ugly, and the formed plastic won't allow for metal threaded fittings.

At $75 I would expect the ability to change the taps, or a more refined look.

Looking at the PDF's for that pump it looks like it wouldn't be out of the question to build a completely custom shell for the pump, getting rid of the cheap looking plastic.

[BalefireX]

I wonder if Polarflo have a DDC (they market as the TT Series 350) replacement housing in the works considering they have made one for the D4 (marketed by them as the TT). Its a bit 'bling' and certainly expensive for no performance benefit, but they might be able to help you out making something that will accept metal barbs.

Remember for $75 you are paying for a higher quality industrial component - it was designed to work without breaking or maintainance for a very long time - pretty wasn't one of their design criteria. The C-Systems pumps looked great externally until they proved too good to be true - seeing how some of them fell apart internally

[ZapWizard]

After reading lots on the DDC pump it looks like the best option.

Here is a rendering with the DDC pump and a Res mounted above it:
I will install a filler hole at the top.



Large image:
http://www.zapwizard.com/projects/wood/plans/wood-4.jpg

I hope to mod the Res to allow for direct flow into the pump without a 90degree bend.
You can also see the drawer-rails that will allow the entire PC to pull out of the case.


Usually if I can make it in 3D I can convert it to real life:

3D: http://www.zapwizard.com/lanpc/Angle.jpg
Real: http://www.zapwizard.com/lanpc/HighRes/Connectors.jpg

3D: http://www.zapwizard.com/ATI/pc-front.jpg
Real: http://www.zapwizard.com/ati/highres/02-Angle-Big.jpg

3D: http://www.zapwizard.com/projects/Kingston/Plans/3d.jpg
Real: http://server2.uploadit.org/files/zapwiz-Cimg0165.jpg

3D: http://www.zapwizard.com/projects/wood/plans/wood-4.jpg
Real: http://www.zapwizard.com/projects/wood/plans/real.jpg

[dima y]

are you outsoursing the waterblocks or are you dremmeling them?

[killernoodle]

You do some mighty fine cad work my friend.

[ZapWizard]

Originally Posted by dima y

are you outsoursing the waterblocks or are you dremmeling them?

I am checking into getting them watercut or CNC'ed.
The watercutting can only do the through-holes, so the channels would still be done by hand.
If CNC'ed it would all be done at once.

As always it depends on how much it costs.
I have some raw copper already, so I may just try it by hand, it will take a while though.

[SlaterSpeed]

Hi Zap, All looks very good as allways

You will have to modify that block design slightly as those channles are near impossilbe to mill even on a CNC. The best way to machine thin channles like those is with a slitting saw (like a small circular saw) but that woudent work with your design as theres no clerance for the saw at the end of the channles.
If you did them on a cnc you may be able to use a very small diameter endmill but its difficult and time consuming. The outer shape of the blocks are fine but internaly i think they need a bit of work to make them easyer to machine.

[ZapWizard]

Thanks for the info, the current design is my idea if I were to hand make it.
Using a dremel cutting wheel, and it wouldn't be very pretty at the edges.
I have some very small milling bits, down to 2mm that I may try to use on an XY table, but it will be experimental.

If CNCed, I will have to consult who ever does the CNCing to check their minimum tolerances and cutting size, the adapt the design to their capabilities.