Finally got my loop together...need bleeding advice :)

[TMonte]

So, I finally got this thing filled tonight. I'm running an 85%/15% mix of distilled water and DexCool. I know DexCool isn't the best thing out there, but I already had some (drive a GM truck) and the local VW dealership wanted $22.00 for a gallon of VW branded Pentosin G11. I only needed 3 or 4 ounces, so it didn't seem worth it.

Anyway, here's the question - should I run the pump and intake fan overnight to help bleed the system while running a leak test? I've been running the pump on and off for 10-15 minute cycles to help the air bleed out the T line. The pump and fan are powered off a hobby grade 30A AC/DC power supply, so it can handle the action. Should I keep the fan on to keep the pump cool? Seems to make a pretty large difference.

EDIT: Should I close the top of the fill tube while bleeding? (using a DD fillport) Does it even matter right now?


Thanks in advance, and thanks for the huge base of knowledge to read. It has made this 'project' rather enjoyable, and I'm not even there yet.


Here's a pic. Don't beat me up too bad on the undersized Rad or the tubing layout...I know it isn't perfect.






Tom

[BGP Spook]

Can't see how you have your tubing run after it disapears between your hardrives.

What pump is that? Can't quite read the lable.

You could leave the top of your T-line open over night, or you could close it; shouldn't matter really.

To bleed your system properly, fill and close the T-line, and start doing aerobics with your case.(assuming everything is well secured) It doesn't need to be running while you turn it every which way.
The idea would be to give any traped air an escape route, so watch for it as you are turning your case at odd angles.(Note: Don't re-introduce air by inverting the case if at all possible.)
Once you have turned it around and gotten a good idea if there is any air traped or not, turn on the loop and listen. If you hear air traped in your loop then you need to try again. The sound is very distintive much different than the sound of rushing or gurgling water. It kind of sounds like tiny air bubbles are poping when there is air traped.

That is basically how I bleed mine loop.

Hope that was helpful.

[TMonte]

Hi,

Thanks for the response. The tubing runs under the drive and connects to the bottom port of the radiator - it's a single pass (BIP X-flow).

The pump is a Laing D5.

I'll try the "aerobics" next. I corked up the fillport and let it run overnight with the fan cranking, and it seems much better than just 8 hours ago. There are still some bubbles in the lines, but mostly in the fill/T line. Hopefully the shaking will dislodge anything trapped in the radiator or blocks, though I figure the turbulence in the blocks kinda helps take care of that anyway.


Thanks!
Tom

[ricecrispi]

Not the best Rad type (single pass) to match with Storm wb....

Still, everything looks good & loops looks good.

I can see the bubbles in the pic but most of it goes away in 24 hours. Just leave the pump on till the coolant level really drops then refill. Once everything levels off you want to turn off the pump and shake the case around to move some trapt airpockets.

You can usually hear the little air bubbles getting moved by the pump.

[TMonte]

Hi ricecrispi,

Thanks. I originally planned on a PA160 as I want to keep the noise low, and as a matter of fact, I used the downloadable template to help determine how much material I'd remove from the case before I started modding. Unfortunately, I couldn't find one for sale. DD was supposed to have them back in stock by now (I mailed them), but they don't - they've been sold out since early December. I went with the BIP X-flow because it should be able to get the job done while I work out the kinks. No plans for max effort overclock just yet, and it was only $30. Unless it really hurts performance, I'm going to use it for 3-6 months and then go with a 120.2 or the 160.

Anyway...I did give it a few good shakes earlier today and released a couple good sized pockets of air. Just did it again 15 minutes ago and it was much less. I don't see a lot of bubbles anywhere but in the fill line now, though there are some around the very ends of the fittings. It's at 20 hours right now, and I'll give it at least until morning before I cut the pump off for the day while I'm at work. No leaks so far, so if all is well tomorrow night, I'll fire it up and see how it works. Can't wait.



Tom

[ricecrispi]

Just being nitpicky. I been hanging around here too much. 2C difference with the rad.
Not a lot but a lot in erms of rad peroformance.

The loop looks nice. Sometimes you dont even have to shake it, just lie the comp on the side and turn on the pump

[TMonte]

Hey,

Thanks again. Not a problem - I expect enthusiasts to be picky! That's what we're supposed to do...which is why I already knew coming in that I had made something of a calculated compromise and that others would notice. No big deal. If you're certain it's a ~2C difference, then I'll have to weigh it out versus spending $100+ on something better.

Tom