Alot of time spent with bad results

UpAllNight · 06-03-2002, 08:01 AM

well i finily got my rig back(added a DD geforce 3 water block)this thing killed my flow rate(ehiem 1250) the flow rate is so bad that i can hardley get all the air bubbles out of it(they hang in my rad).

i was very dissapointed in the preformance of my system temps cpu tems are now 3c hotter(that means i went from 172FSB to 169FSB)...i can clock the core of my gpu more but not enough to make up the difference of the lose of FSB

is it just the 90 deg. fittings that come on a DD gpu block that kills my flow rate or what...i knew i should have made my own gpu block with high flow rate

any ideas would be very helpful

bigben2k · 06-03-2002, 09:50 AM

If it's any help...

the GPU block only need to be a small res, no channels needed, because there's usually not as much heat as the CPU. Yes, the 90D fittings are bad!

In any system, I've always said that the WB is the most restrictive, because they are usually made up of at least 6 90D bends. The energy required to redirect a mass in another direction translates into flow resistance. Combine that and surface friction, because the water is trying to move along a surface that is not moving, make up the total flow resistance.

I don't know which one is greater though, gotta do some math...

UpAllNight · 06-03-2002, 10:12 AM

i have my cpu and gpu blocked hooked up like this cpu then gpu....u think i should try some kinda manifold setup to feed cpu maore water than gpu....or would this be a waste of time...or maybe even a couple of Y's in my system

JimS · 06-03-2002, 06:15 PM

Put the blocks in a parallel setup, not serial. That way the GPU block will affect flow much less. Use "Y" fittings, not "T".

Fixittt · 06-03-2002, 07:11 PM

U could always drill new fitting holes in the sides of the block, to get away from the 90`s, and put plugs in the existing holes.

UpAllNight · 06-03-2002, 07:47 PM

Quote:

U could always drill new fitting holes in the sides of the block, to get away from the 90`s, and put plugs in the existing holes.

thats exactly what i was thinking of doin..except i will have to make a new block so it will clear my ram sinks

maybe make one with a nice 1/2 wide 3/8 or so deep U from input to exit...that would surly keep my flow up....i tell u i knew it was not goin to be good when i tested it and it cut my flow by a 1/3...so i guess its true u need high flow for a maze3

Fixittt · 06-03-2002, 09:33 PM

ever think about an open pocket design? Woth maybe a rought bottom (I think I have rea that somewhere, maybe this thread.

I would check out #rotors site. he has some great blocks like what I am talking about.

And most can be made with shop tools. and some practice.

Brad · 06-04-2002, 04:53 AM

why not do an open design (like fix suggested) but high enough to tak up a pci slot. so you can have the tubing going straight out, and not interfere with the ram sinks

UpAllNight · 06-04-2002, 07:34 AM

all right i have a design im goin to use(open pocket like a small res) with the brabs coming out the side with no 90,s....i think i can just replace the top thats on it now with a thicker on to give me the proper highth to clear my ram sinks

so i guess i can remove the copper top by just heating it up in a oven...anybody have a guess as to what tempture i would need to heat it to...i have a heat treat oven that can hit 2000 deg...i would assum 400 or 500 would do it

UpAllNight · 06-04-2002, 01:27 PM

do u think this may work i dont like the looks of it very much but i do believe that it would work what do yall think

a Y coming from my outlet on my cpu with one end going to my inlet on my gpu the Ying it back into my pump....i dont know if i have the room to do that or not..ill have to check and see what kinda Y,s i can get

but im leaning toward just moding my GPU block

bigben2k · 06-04-2002, 01:43 PM

Nice pic! That is really a nice looking rig you have!

Is your air trap/hose pinched a lot against your CD? It shouldn't matter.

What you're proposing sounds good. If there's any way, you could try removing the 90D at your pump intake. If it's any help, you could always raise your pump a few inches, above your modem/network (?) cards.

A little more complicated: put your pump backwards, tail end against the back of the case, so that the outlet feeds the CPU directly. Then add "T" fittings for the GPU block: that way your CPU will get most of the flow (but the flow will be reversed). It would clear the way for the rad, so you can duct it to the outside of the case, through the bottom. (another suggestion: air filter)

pHaestus · 06-04-2002, 10:40 PM

Yes definitely get rid of that 90 degree barbed fitting at the inlet of the pump! If you can't make the turn with just silicone then use 2 45 degree copper fittings along with the silicone to make a gradual turn. Barring that get a copper 90 (these are a sweep type) so that you can at least cut down some of flow rate losses. Right at the pump's intake is not a good choice for a restriction like that in any case.

UpAllNight · 06-05-2002, 09:30 AM

well i fell stupid but i think i found my problem with my temps being up...i noticed that everyday when i cam in from work i could rock my computer back and forth and get airbubbles out hung in my rad...so the only thing i could think of was that i had not put pressure tape around the cap on my T line(i didnt and still dont see how it could suck air in my system for there but anyway)so i did and after a few more times rocking my putter back and forth the air stopped coming out of my rad and down went my temps whooo...i still want to work on the poor flow through my gpu block though but im happy for now(that was one of the reasons i bought a ehiem 1250 so i would have head room to add to my system later)

and about the 90 on the inlet of my pump.I know it does restrict flow but its a 5/8 barb and when i didnt have the GPU block in line i was getting a good 2 gpm flow so would it really help that much to get rid of it(i only used it for a cleaner lnstall)

i think my time would be more well spent to rework my GPU block as described a couple of threads back...reason being that when i was testing it by only adding my gpu block it cut my flow by a 1/3
and i really thing that not only the 2 90deg barbs on my GPU are killing it but i honsetly think the whole block was designed for 3/8 barbs small channel milled in the block (u can buy it with either 3/8 or 1/2 barbs)

anyway thanks for all the suggestions

since i have been messing with water cooling i sure have forgot about keeping up with the latest hardware...

Cyco-Dude · 06-05-2002, 01:55 PM

is it a 5/8" barb with a 5/8" thread? is it an NPT thread or..?? id like to get myself a 90 degree elbow with a 5/8" barb and 1/2" male NPT thread for my danner mag-drive pump. cant find any tho lol.

UpAllNight · 06-05-2002, 02:25 PM

yeah thats what it is a 5/8 with a 1/2 npt on the other end...i picked it up a farmer supply store ...in the section they have a chemical sprayers for tractors...they have some pretty good stuff that u cant get at a plumbing store

Cyco-Dude · 06-05-2002, 04:16 PM

damn, i need to find me one of those lol.

06-03-2002, 08:01 AM	#1
UpAllNight Cooling Savant Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: HILLBILLY LAND Posts: 159	Alot of time spent with bad results well i finily got my rig back(added a DD geforce 3 water block)this thing killed my flow rate(ehiem 1250) the flow rate is so bad that i can hardley get all the air bubbles out of it(they hang in my rad). i was very dissapointed in the preformance of my system temps cpu tems are now 3c hotter(that means i went from 172FSB to 169FSB)...i can clock the core of my gpu more but not enough to make up the difference of the lose of FSB is it just the 90 deg. fittings that come on a DD gpu block that kills my flow rate or what...i knew i should have made my own gpu block with high flow rate any ideas would be very helpful __________________ XP1800 @172x10.5 Maze 3..Ehiem 1250..Chevette Rad 1 120mm panaflo @7v 1" shroud All fits nicely inside my case ambient(74 F) 2.0v Core(33.5) Loaded idle(31.5c) Enermax 431 watt Antec 1030B Gainward Geforce 3 TI200 241/548 Sony CDRW Creative 52x CD Soundblaster Live

06-03-2002, 09:50 AM	#2
bigben2k Responsible for 2% of all the posts here. Join Date: May 2002 Location: Texas, U.S.A. Posts: 8,302	If it's any help... the GPU block only need to be a small res, no channels needed, because there's usually not as much heat as the CPU. Yes, the 90D fittings are bad! In any system, I've always said that the WB is the most restrictive, because they are usually made up of at least 6 90D bends. The energy required to redirect a mass in another direction translates into flow resistance. Combine that and surface friction, because the water is trying to move along a surface that is not moving, make up the total flow resistance. I don't know which one is greater though, gotta do some math... __________________ WBTA (Water Block Testing Alliance) Nordic Hardware WC 101

06-03-2002, 10:12 AM	#3
UpAllNight Cooling Savant Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: HILLBILLY LAND Posts: 159	i have my cpu and gpu blocked hooked up like this cpu then gpu....u think i should try some kinda manifold setup to feed cpu maore water than gpu....or would this be a waste of time...or maybe even a couple of Y's in my system __________________ XP1800 @172x10.5 Maze 3..Ehiem 1250..Chevette Rad 1 120mm panaflo @7v 1" shroud All fits nicely inside my case ambient(74 F) 2.0v Core(33.5) Loaded idle(31.5c) Enermax 431 watt Antec 1030B Gainward Geforce 3 TI200 241/548 Sony CDRW Creative 52x CD Soundblaster Live

06-03-2002, 07:11 PM	#5
Fixittt CNC Beyatch Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: Tulsa Spell it backwards Posts: 721	U could always drill new fitting holes in the sides of the block, to get away from the 90`s, and put plugs in the existing holes. __________________ Creator of the Spir@l Block Longest post ever http://forums.procooling.com/vbb/showthread.php?s=&postid=43808#post43808

06-03-2002, 09:33 PM	#7
Fixittt CNC Beyatch Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: Tulsa Spell it backwards Posts: 721	ever think about an open pocket design? Woth maybe a rought bottom (I think I have rea that somewhere, maybe this thread. I would check out #rotors site. he has some great blocks like what I am talking about. And most can be made with shop tools. and some practice. __________________ Creator of the Spir@l Block Longest post ever http://forums.procooling.com/vbb/showthread.php?s=&postid=43808#post43808

06-03-2002, 06:15 PM	#4
JimS Cooling Savant Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: Connecticut Posts: 140	Put the blocks in a parallel setup, not serial. That way the GPU block will affect flow much less. Use "Y" fittings, not "T".

06-04-2002, 04:53 AM	#8
Brad Thermophile Join Date: Oct 2001 Location: Nuu Zeeelin Posts: 3,175	why not do an open design (like fix suggested) but high enough to tak up a pci slot. so you can have the tubing going straight out, and not interfere with the ram sinks __________________ 2x P3 1100's at 1400, Abit VP6, 2x Corsair 256mb PC150 sticks, 20gb 'cuda ATA-III, 2x 40gb 'cuda ATA-IV in raid 0. 20" Trinitron. No fans 2x 2400+ at 2288mhz (16.0 x 143), Iwill MPX2, 2x Kingmax PC-3200 256mb sticks, 4x 20gb 60gxp in Raid 5 on a Promise SX6000. Asus Ti4200 320/630. Cooled by Water

06-04-2002, 07:34 AM	#9
UpAllNight Cooling Savant Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: HILLBILLY LAND Posts: 159	all right i have a design im goin to use(open pocket like a small res) with the brabs coming out the side with no 90,s....i think i can just replace the top thats on it now with a thicker on to give me the proper highth to clear my ram sinks so i guess i can remove the copper top by just heating it up in a oven...anybody have a guess as to what tempture i would need to heat it to...i have a heat treat oven that can hit 2000 deg...i would assum 400 or 500 would do it __________________ XP1800 @172x10.5 Maze 3..Ehiem 1250..Chevette Rad 1 120mm panaflo @7v 1" shroud All fits nicely inside my case ambient(74 F) 2.0v Core(33.5) Loaded idle(31.5c) Enermax 431 watt Antec 1030B Gainward Geforce 3 TI200 241/548 Sony CDRW Creative 52x CD Soundblaster Live

06-04-2002, 01:27 PM	#10
UpAllNight Cooling Savant Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: HILLBILLY LAND Posts: 159	do u think this may work i dont like the looks of it very much but i do believe that it would work what do yall think a Y coming from my outlet on my cpu with one end going to my inlet on my gpu the Ying it back into my pump....i dont know if i have the room to do that or not..ill have to check and see what kinda Y,s i can get but im leaning toward just moding my GPU block __________________ XP1800 @172x10.5 Maze 3..Ehiem 1250..Chevette Rad 1 120mm panaflo @7v 1" shroud All fits nicely inside my case ambient(74 F) 2.0v Core(33.5) Loaded idle(31.5c) Enermax 431 watt Antec 1030B Gainward Geforce 3 TI200 241/548 Sony CDRW Creative 52x CD Soundblaster Live

06-04-2002, 01:43 PM	#11
bigben2k Responsible for 2% of all the posts here. Join Date: May 2002 Location: Texas, U.S.A. Posts: 8,302	Nice pic! That is really a nice looking rig you have! Is your air trap/hose pinched a lot against your CD? It shouldn't matter. What you're proposing sounds good. If there's any way, you could try removing the 90D at your pump intake. If it's any help, you could always raise your pump a few inches, above your modem/network (?) cards. A little more complicated: put your pump backwards, tail end against the back of the case, so that the outlet feeds the CPU directly. Then add "T" fittings for the GPU block: that way your CPU will get most of the flow (but the flow will be reversed). It would clear the way for the rad, so you can duct it to the outside of the case, through the bottom. (another suggestion: air filter) __________________ WBTA (Water Block Testing Alliance) Nordic Hardware WC 101

06-04-2002, 10:40 PM	#12
pHaestus Big Player Making Big Money Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: irc.lostgeek.com #procooling.com Posts: 4,782	Yes definitely get rid of that 90 degree barbed fitting at the inlet of the pump! If you can't make the turn with just silicone then use 2 45 degree copper fittings along with the silicone to make a gradual turn. Barring that get a copper 90 (these are a sweep type) so that you can at least cut down some of flow rate losses. Right at the pump's intake is not a good choice for a restriction like that in any case.

06-05-2002, 09:30 AM	#13
UpAllNight Cooling Savant Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: HILLBILLY LAND Posts: 159	well i fell stupid but i think i found my problem with my temps being up...i noticed that everyday when i cam in from work i could rock my computer back and forth and get airbubbles out hung in my rad...so the only thing i could think of was that i had not put pressure tape around the cap on my T line(i didnt and still dont see how it could suck air in my system for there but anyway)so i did and after a few more times rocking my putter back and forth the air stopped coming out of my rad and down went my temps whooo...i still want to work on the poor flow through my gpu block though but im happy for now(that was one of the reasons i bought a ehiem 1250 so i would have head room to add to my system later) and about the 90 on the inlet of my pump.I know it does restrict flow but its a 5/8 barb and when i didnt have the GPU block in line i was getting a good 2 gpm flow so would it really help that much to get rid of it(i only used it for a cleaner lnstall) i think my time would be more well spent to rework my GPU block as described a couple of threads back...reason being that when i was testing it by only adding my gpu block it cut my flow by a 1/3 and i really thing that not only the 2 90deg barbs on my GPU are killing it but i honsetly think the whole block was designed for 3/8 barbs small channel milled in the block (u can buy it with either 3/8 or 1/2 barbs) anyway thanks for all the suggestions since i have been messing with water cooling i sure have forgot about keeping up with the latest hardware... __________________ XP1800 @172x10.5 Maze 3..Ehiem 1250..Chevette Rad 1 120mm panaflo @7v 1" shroud All fits nicely inside my case ambient(74 F) 2.0v Core(33.5) Loaded idle(31.5c) Enermax 431 watt Antec 1030B Gainward Geforce 3 TI200 241/548 Sony CDRW Creative 52x CD Soundblaster Live

06-05-2002, 01:55 PM	#14
Cyco-Dude Cooling Savant Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Dayton, Ohio Posts: 836	is it a 5/8" barb with a 5/8" thread? is it an NPT thread or..?? id like to get myself a 90 degree elbow with a 5/8" barb and 1/2" male NPT thread for my danner mag-drive pump. cant find any tho lol.

06-05-2002, 02:25 PM	#15
UpAllNight Cooling Savant Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: HILLBILLY LAND Posts: 159	yeah thats what it is a 5/8 with a 1/2 npt on the other end...i picked it up a farmer supply store ...in the section they have a chemical sprayers for tractors...they have some pretty good stuff that u cant get at a plumbing store __________________ XP1800 @172x10.5 Maze 3..Ehiem 1250..Chevette Rad 1 120mm panaflo @7v 1" shroud All fits nicely inside my case ambient(74 F) 2.0v Core(33.5) Loaded idle(31.5c) Enermax 431 watt Antec 1030B Gainward Geforce 3 TI200 241/548 Sony CDRW Creative 52x CD Soundblaster Live

06-05-2002, 04:16 PM	#16
Cyco-Dude Cooling Savant Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Dayton, Ohio Posts: 836	damn, i need to find me one of those lol.

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