A few questions before assembly

Tyop · 04-07-2004, 03:00 AM

Finally all the parts for my new watercooled project have arrived and it's time to connect the dots. But before I do anything I have a few questions I'm hoping you can help me with.

The kit consists of a MCP600 pump, a WhiteWater CPU-block, a Maze4 GPU-block and a BIX radiator all connected with Tygon hose.

1) What's the best way to secure and leakproof the hose? The WW and the MCP600 for instance seem to have very small OD barbs and the hose slides over those with little or no violence involved. I'd love to have slightly oversized barbs(5/8?) to force the soft hose over but barbs like that aren't available here*.

[Edit: I'll be using clamps ofcourse, but are they enough on the small OD barbs?]

2) What coolant mix should I use? I'm thinking distilled water and some sort of antifreeze, but in what proportions?

Thanks in advance!

*Hell I'm having a really hard time even locating a 1/2" T-connector!

MMZ_TimeLord · 04-07-2004, 10:23 AM

Tyop,

Locating parts... well I can only suggest the internet or local hardware/automotive supply as I don't know where you live.

As to securing the hoses on the barbs with clamps, I only have one caution... if it's a multi-edges sharp barb... like this...

DON'T. I know most people here have had no problems, but clamps WILL begin to cut into your hose if you over tighten them.

If it's a straight barb with a smooth spot at the base ... like this...

They may also have a single rounded lip ... like this...

... then go ahead and use clamps. These types of barbs are designed for using clamps, where the others are designed so that the hose is just a little small and the clamping pressure of the hose itself is enough to catch the teeth of the barb.

If you have a drill press you can also secure the barb at the top in it and sand/trim off the base teeth so you have a smooth place to clamp.

bigben2k · 04-07-2004, 10:59 AM

The middle unit there is available at Ace hardware, and costs pennies... They're made of polypropylene. I use them almost exclusively.

Otherwise, the only advice is to use the correct size clamp (very important!).

Tyop · 04-13-2004, 02:23 AM

Thanks for the advice, I'll skip the clamps on the barbs that have the many "sharp" edges and clamp the others. Since they sent me a BIX2 instead of the BIX I ordered I have some more time trying to find someone who sells the elusive barbs in inch sizes with tapered threads.

Good news is I finally found a 1/2" T-connector!

TerraMex · 04-13-2004, 05:28 AM

I've used number 3 there. No clamps thou, no need.

satanicoo · 04-13-2004, 06:01 AM

Terramex:

Tens ideia onde se arranja daqueles da primeira imagem do MMz_timelord com 1/2 ID ca em portugal?

TerraMex · 04-13-2004, 06:40 AM

Casa (loja?) de ferragens.
Comprei numa , refundida, uns 8, para as entradas dos dois radiadores.
No entanto, não são nada comuns. Cá em Setúbal, foi preciso corrê-las (as lojas) todas.

No AKI existem a que mostrei, compra-se para gás, e corta-se o "excesso" de tamanho.

MMZ_TimeLord · 04-13-2004, 11:50 AM

Well, I can see they are talking about me... but I just don't understand Portugese...

TerraMex · 04-13-2004, 12:05 PM

Quote:

Well, I can see they are talking about me... but I just don't understand Portugese..

Not exactly.
He's wondering where to find you're "nº1" barb here in Portugal.
I just replied that they can be found at some hardware stores, but they're rare. Only found 8 , and at a really obscure hardware store.
Also said that your "nº3" can be adapted from a gas barb (and get the same effect cutting off the excess lenght of the barb).

Puzzdre · 04-13-2004, 12:35 PM

Satanico, try some local machine shop to make it for you. I never found any of those already made in hardware stores here in Cro, but local machine shop made it for me for less than 2 euro a piece. All you have to know is what ID and OD you want, and what type of thread you need on the bottom end.

Cheers!

MMZ_TimeLord · 04-13-2004, 12:50 PM

TerraMex,

Oh... gotcha... I don't even use barbs anymore... it's all straight pipe/tube that's slightly larger than my hose. I have to stretch the hose to get it on and after that it takes some real effort to get off, even after six months.

TerraMex · 04-13-2004, 01:07 PM

I have one of each here.
The "filter/rez" has nº3 barbs, the rads have nº1 barbs (inlet outlet), and the fill line (T) has straight pipe. Messy.
I really should work on that, but i've been busy, and when i'm not working, the "lazy ass mode" kicks in

.

Gooserider · 04-19-2004, 01:06 PM

Just as a note, I have found that nylon 'Tie-wraps' (aka cable ties, the nylon straps with a one way head you tie up wiring with) make good hose clamp substitutes so long as the hose is a tight fit on the barb or fitting to begin with. It also helps if there is some sort of bulge in the fitting between the tie-wrap and the end of the fitting. Barbs are no problem, and when using plain tubing I drive a tapered pin into the end just enough to flare it out a small amount. If you do this, the tie-wrap will act as a cuff that jams the tubing tight against the bulge and will keep it from moving.

I find the larger size tie-wraps are most suitable (~1/4" wide) and you need to make sure they are pulled as tight as possible. If you do this I think you'll like the results, as it is a very neat and tidy solution that works well and takes less room than using conventional worm drive cable clamps.

Gooserider

TerraMex · 04-19-2004, 02:07 PM

@Gooserider

I usually use zipties, when i have to use something. For a long time now. Recommended.
Even with the straight pipe , which is wider than the tube, works good.
No issues here.
A bitch to take out thou, it has to be cut, and you have to do it really carefully not to damage the tube.

One of the reasons i went with that "numer 3 barb" was the large ties. It works great, but the barb ID is a bit smaller than 1/2". Unlike the others.

Gooserider · 04-19-2004, 08:20 PM

Well we don't seem to use the numbered barbs here in the US, instead we use fractional inch sizing.

What I find works well when removing zip ties is to use a pair of diagonal cutters (or end nippers, but I usually have the dikes handier) and cut the head of the tie at an angle. If you get the hole to distort or cut enough off of it, the tie will release. The advantage of doing it that way is that your cutters don't go near the tube. The downside is that there is no way to re-use the tie, which is a bummer if you're a cheapskate.

Gooserider

TerraMex · 04-20-2004, 05:10 AM

When you buy a pack of 50 for pennies, there's really no point on being one

.

PS : "Number3" refers to MMZ's posted pictures. The one that could be found here, is a 1/2" gas barb. I just trimmed the excess lenght , as you can see from the picture i posted.

04-07-2004, 03:00 AM	#1
Tyop Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Sweden Posts: 23	A few questions before assembly Finally all the parts for my new watercooled project have arrived and it's time to connect the dots. But before I do anything I have a few questions I'm hoping you can help me with. The kit consists of a MCP600 pump, a WhiteWater CPU-block, a Maze4 GPU-block and a BIX radiator all connected with Tygon hose. 1) What's the best way to secure and leakproof the hose? The WW and the MCP600 for instance seem to have very small OD barbs and the hose slides over those with little or no violence involved. I'd love to have slightly oversized barbs(5/8?) to force the soft hose over but barbs like that aren't available here. [Edit: I'll be using clamps ofcourse, but are they enough on the small OD barbs?] 2) What coolant mix should I use? I'm thinking distilled water and some sort of antifreeze, but in what proportions? Thanks in advance! Hell I'm having a really hard time even locating a 1/2" T-connector!

04-07-2004, 10:23 AM	#2
MMZ_TimeLord Cooling Savant Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: San Mateo, CA, USA, Earth Posts: 433	Tyop, Locating parts... well I can only suggest the internet or local hardware/automotive supply as I don't know where you live. As to securing the hoses on the barbs with clamps, I only have one caution... if it's a multi-edges sharp barb... like this... DON'T. I know most people here have had no problems, but clamps WILL begin to cut into your hose if you over tighten them. If it's a straight barb with a smooth spot at the base ... like this... They may also have a single rounded lip ... like this... ... then go ahead and use clamps. These types of barbs are designed for using clamps, where the others are designed so that the hose is just a little small and the clamping pressure of the hose itself is enough to catch the teeth of the barb. If you have a drill press you can also secure the barb at the top in it and sand/trim off the base teeth so you have a smooth place to clamp. __________________ MMZ>TimeLord "Oooooooooh... that's gonna leave a mark!"

04-07-2004, 10:59 AM	#3
bigben2k Responsible for 2% of all the posts here. Join Date: May 2002 Location: Texas, U.S.A. Posts: 8,302	The middle unit there is available at Ace hardware, and costs pennies... They're made of polypropylene. I use them almost exclusively. Otherwise, the only advice is to use the correct size clamp (very important!). __________________ WBTA (Water Block Testing Alliance) Nordic Hardware WC 101

04-13-2004, 06:01 AM	#6
satanicoo Cooling Savant Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: portugal Posts: 635	Terramex: Tens ideia onde se arranja daqueles da primeira imagem do MMz_timelord com 1/2 ID ca em portugal? __________________ back.

04-13-2004, 06:40 AM	#7
TerraMex Cooling Savant Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Portugal, Europe Posts: 870	Casa (loja?) de ferragens. Comprei numa , refundida, uns 8, para as entradas dos dois radiadores. No entanto, não são nada comuns. Cá em Setúbal, foi preciso corrê-las (as lojas) todas. No AKI existem a que mostrei, compra-se para gás, e corta-se o "excesso" de tamanho. __________________ "we need more cowbell."

04-13-2004, 02:23 AM	#4
Tyop Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Sweden Posts: 23	Thanks for the advice, I'll skip the clamps on the barbs that have the many "sharp" edges and clamp the others. Since they sent me a BIX2 instead of the BIX I ordered I have some more time trying to find someone who sells the elusive barbs in inch sizes with tapered threads. Good news is I finally found a 1/2" T-connector!

04-13-2004, 11:50 AM	#8
MMZ_TimeLord Cooling Savant Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: San Mateo, CA, USA, Earth Posts: 433	Well, I can see they are talking about me... but I just don't understand Portugese... __________________ MMZ>TimeLord "Oooooooooh... that's gonna leave a mark!"

04-13-2004, 12:35 PM	#10
Puzzdre Cooling Savant Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Croatia Posts: 969	Satanico, try some local machine shop to make it for you. I never found any of those already made in hardware stores here in Cro, but local machine shop made it for me for less than 2 euro a piece. All you have to know is what ID and OD you want, and what type of thread you need on the bottom end. Cheers! __________________ 'Out of cheese error... ...please reboot the universe (press the GBL to continue)'

04-13-2004, 12:50 PM	#11
MMZ_TimeLord Cooling Savant Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: San Mateo, CA, USA, Earth Posts: 433	TerraMex, Oh... gotcha... I don't even use barbs anymore... it's all straight pipe/tube that's slightly larger than my hose. I have to stretch the hose to get it on and after that it takes some real effort to get off, even after six months. __________________ MMZ>TimeLord "Oooooooooh... that's gonna leave a mark!"

04-13-2004, 01:07 PM	#12
TerraMex Cooling Savant Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Portugal, Europe Posts: 870	I have one of each here. The "filter/rez" has nº3 barbs, the rads have nº1 barbs (inlet outlet), and the fill line (T) has straight pipe. Messy. I really should work on that, but i've been busy, and when i'm not working, the "lazy ass mode" kicks in . __________________ "we need more cowbell."

04-19-2004, 01:06 PM	#13
Gooserider Cooling Savant Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: North Billerica, MA, USA Posts: 451	Just as a note, I have found that nylon 'Tie-wraps' (aka cable ties, the nylon straps with a one way head you tie up wiring with) make good hose clamp substitutes so long as the hose is a tight fit on the barb or fitting to begin with. It also helps if there is some sort of bulge in the fitting between the tie-wrap and the end of the fitting. Barbs are no problem, and when using plain tubing I drive a tapered pin into the end just enough to flare it out a small amount. If you do this, the tie-wrap will act as a cuff that jams the tubing tight against the bulge and will keep it from moving. I find the larger size tie-wraps are most suitable (~1/4" wide) and you need to make sure they are pulled as tight as possible. If you do this I think you'll like the results, as it is a very neat and tidy solution that works well and takes less room than using conventional worm drive cable clamps. Gooserider __________________ Designing system, will have Tyan S2468UGN Dual Athlon MOBO, SCSI HDDS, other goodies. Will run LINUX only. Want to have silent running, minimal fans, and water cooled. Probably not OC'c

04-19-2004, 02:07 PM	#14
TerraMex Cooling Savant Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Portugal, Europe Posts: 870	@Gooserider I usually use zipties, when i have to use something. For a long time now. Recommended. Even with the straight pipe , which is wider than the tube, works good. No issues here. A bitch to take out thou, it has to be cut, and you have to do it really carefully not to damage the tube. One of the reasons i went with that "numer 3 barb" was the large ties. It works great, but the barb ID is a bit smaller than 1/2". Unlike the others. __________________ "we need more cowbell."

04-19-2004, 08:20 PM	#15
Gooserider Cooling Savant Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: North Billerica, MA, USA Posts: 451	Well we don't seem to use the numbered barbs here in the US, instead we use fractional inch sizing. What I find works well when removing zip ties is to use a pair of diagonal cutters (or end nippers, but I usually have the dikes handier) and cut the head of the tie at an angle. If you get the hole to distort or cut enough off of it, the tie will release. The advantage of doing it that way is that your cutters don't go near the tube. The downside is that there is no way to re-use the tie, which is a bummer if you're a cheapskate. Gooserider __________________ Designing system, will have Tyan S2468UGN Dual Athlon MOBO, SCSI HDDS, other goodies. Will run LINUX only. Want to have silent running, minimal fans, and water cooled. Probably not OC'c

04-20-2004, 05:10 AM	#16
TerraMex Cooling Savant Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Portugal, Europe Posts: 870	When you buy a pack of 50 for pennies, there's really no point on being one . PS : "Number3" refers to MMZ's posted pictures. The one that could be found here, is a 1/2" gas barb. I just trimmed the excess lenght , as you can see from the picture i posted. __________________ "we need more cowbell."

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