More block building fun for the 8500

FRAGN'STIEN · 01-06-2003, 12:26 AM

Well here it is finally finished.

G33k · 01-06-2003, 07:00 PM

Looks very tidy

What's it like on the inside?

ChronoS · 01-06-2003, 08:54 PM

yea, please put pics and the design you use, please

FRAGN'STIEN · 01-07-2003, 12:14 AM

Heh sorry I was late to answer.

I used the #rotor grid on it just like my CPU block. The #Rotor design is very effective and efficient, but I think my placement of the barbs might hinder performance as I will have a dead spot at the front of the block. Also the pic was taken before I removed the material on the bottom block just under the barbs so there is no restiction there anymore. The block seems to flow real nice, but I haven't taken actual numbers yet.

g.l.amour · 01-07-2003, 03:25 AM

nice work frag!!!

couple of q's, how did the soldering go, your last block wasn't soldered, so i guess this was a virginity job....

the mounting flaps for the bolts, how the hell did u pull that off?

cya

morphling1 · 01-07-2003, 05:37 AM

Very nice job, what's the ID of those fittings, where did you get them

pippin88 · 01-07-2003, 06:15 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by g.l.amour

the mounting flaps for the bolts, how the hell did u pull that off?

cya

What do you mean?

g.l.amour · 01-07-2003, 08:09 AM

well i'd have no problem to saw both halves of the block off a copper bar. but the mounting mechanism for the 2 bolts seems like it took a lot of work to machine that.

Puzzdre · 01-07-2003, 09:01 AM

It can be done with saw, but involves lot's of (precise) sawing and filing...Congrat's on the block Fragn'stien!!!

ps, glad you're back g.l.amour!

g.l.amour · 01-07-2003, 10:57 AM

yeah, u know, couldn't wait for rma of mb, so just bought a new one. my impatience will always cost me big bucks

FRAGN'STIEN · 01-07-2003, 05:45 PM

Thanks for the comments guys.
g.l.amour I used the method puzzdre described. I made a rough cut with a hacksaw then used my bench top disk/belt sander to clean it up and get the shape then I filed the rest. That was the hardest part of the process. I would like to build a cooler for the card similar to Morphlings, but ATI seems to change spects on thier cards midstream as mine has the tiny BGA mem and a big fat cap right smack dab in the center of the two sets of memory. I haven't figured out a way to work around this so the memory will get some nickel plated sinks for now. Also this is my third block that I've soldered. I've built two CPU blocks that I "glued and screwed" because it is easier to do I think and the cap head screws look really good. My NB block will have the screws to keep with the theme and I will build a new Vid cooler with the screws and also a little more flair, as much as I can without a mill anyway.

Morphling the elbows are 1/4" FPT street fittings and the barbs are 3/8" ODx1/4" MPT they have a 1/4" bore(ID) through out. I would like to use the festo style but can't seem to find the locally.

ChronoS · 01-07-2003, 09:37 PM

how do you seal it?

FRAGN'STIEN · 01-07-2003, 09:57 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by ChronoS
how do you seal it?

I soldered the two halfs together and then I'll use teflon tape on all the threads.

pippin88 · 01-08-2003, 05:59 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Puzzdre
It can be done with saw, but involves lot's of (precise) sawing and filing...Congrat's on the block Fragn'stien!!!

ps, glad you're back g.l.amour!

Pffft precise. I just start sawing in what I thinks a good direction and make the tab shapes from there.

They are really quite easy. You can also make some cool ones on a mill.,

Puzzdre · 01-08-2003, 06:42 AM

Yup, but more the precise the cut is, less afterwork you have... I just hate having lots of filing and sanding of the workpiece, especially on the thicker pieces...

Making stuff on the mill is a whole another (beautiful

) story...

Pffft filing and sanding a lot

pippin88 · 01-08-2003, 05:52 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Puzzdre
Yup, but more the precise the cut is, less afterwork you have... I just hate having lots of filing and sanding of the workpiece, especially on the thicker pieces...

Making stuff on the mill is a whole another (beautiful ) story...

Pffft filing and sanding a lot

Yes, milling stuff is nice, I always hate hacing to solder it closed, never to be seen again.

Oh and I was using a 5/8" bit for the unfinished block. It was heating the copper up sooooo much (As in enough to cause the pretty colours), I was using some cuuting lubricant. I think I just need to slow down the speed a bit?

Nick C · 01-08-2003, 11:48 PM

...yes you need to slow down... holy frick you do

I'd go with 600 RPM's max... lol

also make sure you lock the axis you're not manipulating (you should know whatI mean)

pippin88 · 01-09-2003, 01:25 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Nick C
...yes you need to slow down... holy frick you do

I'd go with 600 RPM's max... lol

also make sure you lock the axis you're not manipulating (you should know whatI mean)

Holy shit. Oops.
Its just that it didn't seem to be cutting that well on lower speeds in copper using endmills, so we whacked up the speed to max and it milled much better. Do endmills need more speed than slot drills? Also drilling down with the slot drills, atm its trying very hard to shake the table around, is this because im going to fast or too slow or because of spindle speed?

I know I can lock the side to side axis (X? I've never worked out which was which), however Im not sure about locking the other axis, will look when I go up later.

Cheers,
pippin88

#Rotor · 01-09-2003, 11:22 PM

looking very good.

I would not make too much of that "deadspot" as a result of your entry locations...

FRAGN'STIEN · 01-09-2003, 11:45 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by #Rotor
looking very good.

I would not make too much of that "deadspot" as a result of your entry locations...

Thanks #Rotor. I really don't think it's going to be an issue either. I can't wait to get it up and running, but I still need to build a couple manifolds for the circuit. I think I'll build the two manifolds out of some 3/4" copper pipe, solder end caps on one end of each manifold, solder a reducer to the other ends, solder 1/2" barbs on the ends for the inlets, then 1/2" and 3/8" accordingly on top of the pipes in a row for the outlets.

Nick C · 01-10-2003, 02:11 PM

well, plunging with an endmill doesn't generally work to well...

you can do it like, 3/64 of an inch... then move and do it again until you get to the desired depth.

your endmill is probably ruined now... lol get a new, SHARP one and 600 or so RPM's should to fine

01-06-2003, 12:26 AM	#1
FRAGN'STIEN Cooling Savant Join Date: May 2002 Location: Rathdrum, ID Posts: 380	More block building fun for the 8500 Well here it is finally finished. __________________ This space for rent

01-06-2003, 07:00 PM	#2
G33k Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Bristol [UK] Posts: 73	Looks very tidy What's it like on the inside? __________________ "Success is 99% Failure"

01-07-2003, 12:14 AM	#4
FRAGN'STIEN Cooling Savant Join Date: May 2002 Location: Rathdrum, ID Posts: 380	Heh sorry I was late to answer. I used the #rotor grid on it just like my CPU block. The #Rotor design is very effective and efficient, but I think my placement of the barbs might hinder performance as I will have a dead spot at the front of the block. Also the pic was taken before I removed the material on the bottom block just under the barbs so there is no restiction there anymore. The block seems to flow real nice, but I haven't taken actual numbers yet. __________________ This space for rent

01-07-2003, 03:25 AM	#5
g.l.amour Cooling Savant Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: on da case Posts: 933	nice work frag!!! couple of q's, how did the soldering go, your last block wasn't soldered, so i guess this was a virginity job.... the mounting flaps for the bolts, how the hell did u pull that off? cya __________________ yo soy un tiburón

01-07-2003, 05:37 AM	#6
morphling1 Cooling Savant Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Slovenia Posts: 468	Very nice job, what's the ID of those fittings, where did you get them __________________ [My ftp, with lots of pics, hope to be home page someday

01-06-2003, 08:54 PM	#3
ChronoS Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Argentina Posts: 9	yea, please put pics and the design you use, please

01-07-2003, 08:09 AM	#8
g.l.amour Cooling Savant Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: on da case Posts: 933	well i'd have no problem to saw both halves of the block off a copper bar. but the mounting mechanism for the 2 bolts seems like it took a lot of work to machine that. __________________ yo soy un tiburón

01-07-2003, 09:01 AM	#9
Puzzdre Cooling Savant Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Croatia Posts: 969	It can be done with saw, but involves lot's of (precise) sawing and filing...Congrat's on the block Fragn'stien!!! ps, glad you're back g.l.amour! __________________ 'Out of cheese error... ...please reboot the universe (press the GBL to continue)'

01-07-2003, 10:57 AM	#10
g.l.amour Cooling Savant Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: on da case Posts: 933	yeah, u know, couldn't wait for rma of mb, so just bought a new one. my impatience will always cost me big bucks __________________ yo soy un tiburón

01-07-2003, 05:45 PM	#11
FRAGN'STIEN Cooling Savant Join Date: May 2002 Location: Rathdrum, ID Posts: 380	Thanks for the comments guys. g.l.amour I used the method puzzdre described. I made a rough cut with a hacksaw then used my bench top disk/belt sander to clean it up and get the shape then I filed the rest. That was the hardest part of the process. I would like to build a cooler for the card similar to Morphlings, but ATI seems to change spects on thier cards midstream as mine has the tiny BGA mem and a big fat cap right smack dab in the center of the two sets of memory. I haven't figured out a way to work around this so the memory will get some nickel plated sinks for now. Also this is my third block that I've soldered. I've built two CPU blocks that I "glued and screwed" because it is easier to do I think and the cap head screws look really good. My NB block will have the screws to keep with the theme and I will build a new Vid cooler with the screws and also a little more flair, as much as I can without a mill anyway. Morphling the elbows are 1/4" FPT street fittings and the barbs are 3/8" ODx1/4" MPT they have a 1/4" bore(ID) through out. I would like to use the festo style but can't seem to find the locally. __________________ This space for rent Last edited by FRAGN'STIEN; 01-07-2003 at 06:28 PM.

01-07-2003, 09:37 PM	#12
ChronoS Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Argentina Posts: 9	how do you seal it?

01-08-2003, 06:42 AM	#15
Puzzdre Cooling Savant Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Croatia Posts: 969	Yup, but more the precise the cut is, less afterwork you have... I just hate having lots of filing and sanding of the workpiece, especially on the thicker pieces... Making stuff on the mill is a whole another (beautiful ) story... Pffft filing and sanding a lot __________________ 'Out of cheese error... ...please reboot the universe (press the GBL to continue)'

01-08-2003, 11:48 PM	#17
Nick C Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: OREGON Posts: 62	...yes you need to slow down... holy frick you do I'd go with 600 RPM's max... lol also make sure you lock the axis you're not manipulating (you should know whatI mean)

01-09-2003, 11:22 PM	#19
#Rotor Cooling Savant Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Dione, sector 4s1256 Posts: 852	looking very good. I would not make too much of that "deadspot" as a result of your entry locations... __________________ There is no Spoon....

01-10-2003, 02:11 PM	#21
Nick C Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: OREGON Posts: 62	well, plunging with an endmill doesn't generally work to well... you can do it like, 3/64 of an inch... then move and do it again until you get to the desired depth. your endmill is probably ruined now... lol get a new, SHARP one and 600 or so RPM's should to fine

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