|
|
Water Block Design / Construction Building your own block? Need info on designing one? Heres where to do it |
Thread Tools |
04-03-2003, 06:53 AM | #1 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Hong Kong
Posts: 102
|
Please help a complete n00b out
Hi everyone.
I've been pointed over here by members over at 3Dgameman forums... I am intrested in machining my own waterblock, but there are several things I need to ask first... On most commercially available water blocks, there are only two barbs, a inlet and a outlet. However, on some member's designs here, I see that they have 3. What is the purpose of this? Is it to increace turbulance of the water? Also, with so many different designs, which is the easiest and most effective to use? I have only a limited time at the machine room at school before I know I'll piss the teacher off so I need to get everyone well planned and finish the block quickly... Thanks in advance, everyone! |
04-03-2003, 07:17 AM | #2 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Sweden
Posts: 336
|
Hello!
I´m just a poor noob miself, but I´ll give my best try: Three barbs: 1 inlet, 2 outlets. Can make a more symmetric block. Gives more possibilities when using central inlet, directly above CPU-core. For an easy-to-make block many recommend the #Rotor-design, micropin block. Lots of inspiration on http://3rotor.homelinux.com/index.html Max, at http://homepages.paradise.net.nz/max.williams/ has given me a lot of dangerous idéas (dangerous because of my skill with large tools ). regards Mikael S. |
04-03-2003, 07:22 AM | #3 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Hong Kong
Posts: 102
|
So the single inlet is above the CPU core?
|
04-03-2003, 08:14 AM | #4 | |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Sterling Hts., MI
Posts: 496
|
Quote:
(Questions like this really helps the post count, eh Ben?) Bob
__________________
Sarcasm is yet another of the free services we offer! |
|
04-03-2003, 08:33 AM | #5 | |
Responsible for 2%
of all the posts here. Join Date: May 2002
Location: Texas, U.S.A.
Posts: 8,302
|
Quote:
The #rotor style block is a DIYer's dream, because all you need is a drillpress (or a drill, if you're desperate!). Here's another thread. |
|
04-03-2003, 09:04 AM | #6 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Hong Kong
Posts: 102
|
Ben, what thickness of baseplate would be good for the Rotor design?
Also, I use a P4 system, how should I mount it? |
04-06-2003, 09:15 AM | #7 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Dione, sector 4s1256
Posts: 852
|
Mind If I chirp in. oh thanks for all the propaganda there.
base plate thickness: anything from 1/4" up to about 3/4" I guess the telling criteria would be which ever is available to you. the design can accommodate virtually anything, any size, and shape, any direction. the 3 barb phenomenon, came from the urge to have the cold liquid enter the block right over the core, this is a novel concept, but would, IMO, only be effective, in open-air blocks. any design that incorporates internal structure to generate turbulence, would not gain anything from it, I like to think of such cases as "the eye of the storm syndrome". Where the inlet being directly over the hotspot, would have no lateral movement across the core, rendering the eye. so to speak. please do keep in mind that I am babbling here, non is proven to be fact.
__________________
There is no Spoon.... |
04-06-2003, 09:21 AM | #8 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Malta, Mediterranean
Posts: 662
|
Another block you might be interested in is the shitblock (self propoganda). Keep in mind that a hacksaw will be your friend here. It can be attempted using the commonest of tools and a piece of 7mm thick copper.
__________________
- Every great HD crash day is the day before back-up day. - My Past System - "Better to reign in Hell than serve in Heaven." - Milton, Paradise Lost. - FMZ |
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests) | |
|
|