Go Back   Pro/Forums > ProCooling Technical Discussions > General Liquid/Water Cooling Discussion
Password
Register FAQ Members List Calendar JavaChat Mark Forums Read

General Liquid/Water Cooling Discussion For discussion about Full Cooling System kits, or general cooling topics. Keep specific cooling items like pumps, radiators, etc... in their specific forums.

Reply
Thread Tools
Unread 07-10-2003, 11:15 AM   #151
bigben2k
Responsible for 2%
of all the posts here.
 
bigben2k's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Texas, U.S.A.
Posts: 8,302
Default

I might have found something:

http://dkc3.digikey.com/PDF/T032/0642.pdf

It's p/n 240-1007-1-ND (13th item, from the top).

Specs:

Manufacturer: Steward
Measurements: 2mm by 1.32 mm by 0.9 mm (I gotta get away from this SMT stuff!)
Current rating: 4.5 amps
Frequency: 100 MHz
Impedence at 100 MHz: 31 Ohms


Here's a spec sheet from Steward:
http://www.steward.com/web_part_no.a...HI0805Q310R-00
bigben2k is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 07-10-2003, 11:30 AM   #152
bigben2k
Responsible for 2%
of all the posts here.
 
bigben2k's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Texas, U.S.A.
Posts: 8,302
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by Since87
...Any additional caps should be in parallel. Multiple film and/or ceramic capacitors of various values would be more beneficial for reducing the fast transient noise. Something like a 1uF film, a 0.1uF film and a 0.01uF film would probably suppress the spikes some more. Cutting the leads of the pump back as close to the pump as you dare, and soldering the cap(s) on close to the body of the pump would likely have some benefit, but I don't think that anything beyond, a single 0.1uF at the normal lead length, is really going to have an impact on system performance. IMO the 0.1uF cap is enough.
Do you mean one of these?:

I'm just having a hard time choosing the right type, with these definitions:
http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bi...140&type=store

Last edited by bigben2k; 07-10-2003 at 02:11 PM.
bigben2k is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 07-11-2003, 10:23 AM   #153
bigben2k
Responsible for 2%
of all the posts here.
 
bigben2k's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Texas, U.S.A.
Posts: 8,302
Default

Bump!

I just want to make sure I get the right cap. A Radio-Scrap p/n would do!

BTW, I've done filtering on a DC motor, in my RC boat, and it involved using a cap between the leads, and a cap between the supply line, and the motor housing. Unfortunately, I lost my data source (link) for the technical explanation
bigben2k is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 07-11-2003, 10:51 AM   #154
Since87
Pro/Guru - Uber Mod
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Indiana
Posts: 834
Default

From the All Electronics website, caps listed as: "disc", "metallized polypropylene", or "mylar" will work fine.

Mylar will probably be smallest.

As far as the ferrite, the one you listed is rated for 3A DC as far as I can tell from the catalog page. I'd suggest Digi-Key 240-1013-1-ND on the same page. Rated at 6A and 80 Ohms at 100MHz, plus it's bigger and easier to work with.
Since87 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 07-11-2003, 10:58 AM   #155
bigben2k
Responsible for 2%
of all the posts here.
 
bigben2k's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Texas, U.S.A.
Posts: 8,302
Default

Thank you!

I'll place the order right away.

I'm really looking forward to running these off of the PSU array.
bigben2k is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 07-11-2003, 12:19 PM   #156
nuclear
Cooling Neophyte
 
nuclear's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Quebec
Posts: 46
Default

Hello guys (edit:more info to bb2k post about r/c boat)
Maybe i am saying non sense but in the r/c car domain (where you have motor spining a 30k rpm a drawing around 30 amps at startup) They recommend soldering 3 caps to the motor. 1st cap:One lead to the +, the second to the -. 2nd cap: one lead to the +, the second to the can. 3rd cap: one lead to the -, second to the can of the motor.
They also recommend for forward only esc (electronic speed controller) to solder a schottky diode from the + to the - to have better performance off power.
They do also recommend to twist the motor wire around each others to reduce the emf, so not to have radio problems.
for more info and some pictures, you can go read the manuals from one of the esc manufacturer www.teamnovak.com
these are the caps used

EDIT: forgot to add that they might be using rare earth magnet to get a higher power motor without using more current. I have seen r/c motor about 10 to 20% smaller but they still had the same power rating because they were using samarium-cobalt magnet.

Last edited by nuclear; 07-12-2003 at 08:49 AM.
nuclear is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 07-11-2003, 02:20 PM   #157
Solarian League
Cooling Neophyte
 
Solarian League's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Solarian League
Posts: 66
Default

i finally got my johnson pump in the mail yestday and i was suprised when i opened up the box its TINNY, i was expecting something about a foot or 2, i guess i think on those scale cos i'm a farmer and i usualy work with LARGE pump heh.

anyway i got a few question about the power supply.

i'm probably going to plug this sucker into my antec 550watt PSU anyway i think i rember what i need to do to wire it up, but anyway i got a few question.

how do you guys plan on bleeding the system without actualy starting up the system, etc.... are you guys planning on yaking the powersupply off the mobo while youre bleeding the system, etc? anyway i'm not sure if i can find a seperate 12v PSU lying around for my 24/hr test run and bleeding run heh, oh well i'm on a farm i'm sure i can scourge it up somewhere
Solarian League is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 07-11-2003, 06:25 PM   #158
bigben2k
Responsible for 2%
of all the posts here.
 
bigben2k's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Texas, U.S.A.
Posts: 8,302
Default

I'm simply adding a tee in my loop, that will be plugged from under the case.

So to bleed it, I'd prop up the case, unscrew the top and bottom caps, and voila! A liquid mess all over the kitchen table!

Thanks for the link, Nuclear! I was using a tiny electric (permanent magnet) electric motor, running off of 2 "C" cells: it's just a scale model, not a racer.
bigben2k is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 07-12-2003, 01:33 PM   #159
bigben2k
Responsible for 2%
of all the posts here.
 
bigben2k's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Texas, U.S.A.
Posts: 8,302
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by Since87
As far as the ferrite, the one you listed is rated for 3A DC as far as I can tell from the catalog page. I'd suggest Digi-Key 240-1013-1-ND on the same page. Rated at 6A and 80 Ohms at 100MHz, plus it's bigger and easier to work with.
Here's the PDF for that filter:
http://www.steward.com/web_part_no.a...HI1812T800R-00

Digikey has a minimum order on these, of 10. They go for $0.41 (USD) each. If anyone wants one, let me know, and I'll mail you one. I'll take PayPal "contributions"

edit: Digikey's minimum order is $25, or there's a $5 surcharge. With shipping, they'll come out to ~$1.50 each, plus the cost of me mailing it to you. No offers refused!

Last edited by bigben2k; 07-12-2003 at 05:50 PM.
bigben2k is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 07-16-2003, 11:59 AM   #160
bigben2k
Responsible for 2%
of all the posts here.
 
bigben2k's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Texas, U.S.A.
Posts: 8,302
Default

I'm having to drop the blower I picked out: it's just too big.

The fan wheel is 6 1/4" in diameter, and 3 1/8" thick. The problem though, is that the motor sits outside the fan wheel, for a total thickness of 6 3/8", which is also preventing me from centering the fan over the core.

I need a blower that's got the motor inside the fan wheel, like one of those Comair Rotron deals.

If everything goes as expected (i.e. Murphy's law), I won't be able to undervolt it to 5 volts, and the power supply doesn't like a 7 volt load, without a matching 5 volt load to match: my PSU shut down, when I hooked up that blower by itself, in a 7 volt configuration.

So I'll have to add a speed control.

The Surplus Center didn't have anything that matches what I'm looking for.
bigben2k is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 07-22-2003, 10:03 AM   #161
bigben2k
Responsible for 2%
of all the posts here.
 
bigben2k's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Texas, U.S.A.
Posts: 8,302
Default

I got the caps (and other parts) yesterday.

I opted to take apart the pump, so that I can solder these caps as close as possible, as per Since87's advice.

It'll be a bit difficult to put it back together, but it's not as bad as I thought.

Those brushes are indeed replaceable. There's a # stamped on them, if it means anything: 46.

I can solder the 0.1 and 0.01 uF caps, and the diode, so that they fit inside the pump housing. The bigger cap (1 uF) though, is going to have to sit outside the housing. I'm going to try to drill a couple of small holes on the back cover, and see if I can connect it that way. I'll have to add a bit of wiring, to extend that cap's leads.

Putting it back together, the only complicated part is slipping on the brushes over the rotor contacts, but I think it can easily be done, by first seperating the back cover from the assembly that holds the brushes, then partly put it back together, so that I can put the brush springs back in... Piece of cake
bigben2k is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 07-22-2003, 05:56 PM   #162
bigben2k
Responsible for 2%
of all the posts here.
 
bigben2k's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Texas, U.S.A.
Posts: 8,302
Default

WOW, it really isn't that simple!

The spring arm needs to sit inside the plastic housing, so I can't push the plate over the rotor, then slip the cover over it, otherwise, the spring arms would contact the motor housing (and short out), and prevent the back cover from fitting tightly.

The only way to do it, is to complete the assembly, mount the springs, and then use small hooks to pull on the brushes: there's a gap that's about 2 mm wide left, just before the assembly can be closed. Once the brushes are slipped over the rotor, I should be able to close it right.

Now to scrounge around the house, to see what I can use...
bigben2k is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 07-22-2003, 11:56 PM   #163
Cathar
Thermophile
 
Cathar's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 2,538
Default

Well I ordered two of these pumps about 3 weeks ago and still nothing has arrived on my door. I'm in Australia, and the company is in the USA.

Anyone else noticed anything like a 3 week wait to get their stuff when international?

Starting to wonder if they shipped it by sea.
Cathar is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 07-23-2003, 12:01 AM   #164
Cathar
Thermophile
 
Cathar's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 2,538
Default

Hmmm, can anyone tell me if USPS's "4th Class Parcel Post" would mean shipment by sea if sent internationally?
Cathar is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 07-23-2003, 12:04 AM   #165
bigben2k
Responsible for 2%
of all the posts here.
 
bigben2k's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Texas, U.S.A.
Posts: 8,302
Default

I found an easy trick: cut two pieces of string, about 6 inches long, and run them over the brushes (you have to loop the string under the copper wire). Then tie the ends together. Next, you pull on each string loop, so that you can hold the brushes in place, and slip the back cover on. That'll get the brushes over the rotor. Then cut the string loop, pull it out, and push the cover all the way in. Screw it into place.

Voila!

Now I have a nice pump, with the filter caps and the diode inside of it, and a bigger cap sticking out the back, with leads running through a couple of holes drilled in that back cover.

I'd have pics, but I had to start a new roll, so I'll only have the shots of the test run, until I finish that film.
bigben2k is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 07-23-2003, 01:23 AM   #166
SCompRacer
Cooling Neophyte
 
SCompRacer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Illinois
Posts: 94
Default

I believe the USPS changed the name of 4th class parcel post to Standard Mail B, though many still refer to it the old way. When I shipped a package International not long ago, the choices were Global Priority, 4-6 days, Airmail Parcel Post, 4-10 days and Economy (Surface) 4-6 weeks. I don't recall any 4th Class/Standard Mail B choices, but 4th class was always surface.
SCompRacer is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 07-23-2003, 02:21 AM   #167
Cathar
Thermophile
 
Cathar's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 2,538
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by SCompRacer
I believe the USPS changed the name of 4th class parcel post to Standard Mail B, though many still refer to it the old way. When I shipped a package International not long ago, the choices were Global Priority, 4-6 days, Airmail Parcel Post, 4-10 days and Economy (Surface) 4-6 weeks. I don't recall any 4th Class/Standard Mail B choices, but 4th class was always surface.
Thanks. I didn't actually get a choice in the matter, they shipped it "4th Class Parcel" as it says on my order. I did find a link somewhere that for international orders that 4th Class Parcel translates into a different name, but is shipped via surface (sea).

Great. About another 3 weeks to wait then...
Cathar is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 07-23-2003, 03:09 AM   #168
Turbokeu
Cooling Savant
 
Turbokeu's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Brussels - Belgium
Posts: 232
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by Cathar
Well I ordered two of these pumps about 3 weeks ago and still nothing has arrived on my door. I'm in Australia, and the company is in the USA.

Anyone else noticed anything like a 3 week wait to get their stuff when international?

Starting to wonder if they shipped it by sea.
Even worse in my situation:
Two pumps were shipped (by airmail - about 1 week) on June, 6th, arrived in Belgium, went back to the US , were reshipped on July, 8th... and still waiting for my pumps.
Can't blame Surplus Center, they don't understand either why my order came back... (it was written "round date" on the returned package).

CD

Edit: 100th post!
__________________
My website: http://www.turbokeu.com
Backup website: http://www2.turbokeu.com
My company: http://www.kdcs.be
Turbokeu is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 07-23-2003, 09:50 AM   #169
bigben2k
Responsible for 2%
of all the posts here.
 
bigben2k's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Texas, U.S.A.
Posts: 8,302
Default

Sorry to hear you all having problems getting these pumps.

There's detailed info available at the United States Postal Service website: www.USPS.com , including on-line rate and time calculators. What SCompRacer describes seems accurate.
bigben2k is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 07-23-2003, 12:16 PM   #170
flyingass
Cooling Neophyte
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: gmt -6
Posts: 21
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by bigben2k
WOW, it really isn't that simple! ...
Hehe, so you had to go through the ordeal yourself. would you say "pain in the ass" is an accurate description of the process?

sounds like you found a better way to get the brushes/rotor into place. I'll definitely remember it if i ever have a reason to take that thing apart again...
flyingass is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 07-23-2003, 12:27 PM   #171
hydrogen18
Cooling Savant
 
hydrogen18's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: USA
Posts: 248
Default

im considering one or two of these...better to run them in series or parallel?
hydrogen18 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 07-23-2003, 12:42 PM   #172
bigben2k
Responsible for 2%
of all the posts here.
 
bigben2k's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Texas, U.S.A.
Posts: 8,302
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by flyingass
Hehe, so you had to go through the ordeal yourself. would you say "pain in the ass" is an accurate description of the process?

sounds like you found a better way to get the brushes/rotor into place. I'll definitely remember it if i ever have a reason to take that thing apart again...
It wasn't too bad. Taking it apart, I thought that a whole bunch of parts would come flying out, but that's not the case.

The string loops work extremely well. I'm really happy with the result. If I had to do anything different, I'd try to return the pump into its "waterproof" state: I'd seal the holes to the big cap with Goop, and re-tape the screw head, of the back cover.

I took a whole bunch of pictures of the process. When I get the film developped, I'll put something together. Maybe a good article...


Hydrogen18: Series.
bigben2k is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 07-24-2003, 06:35 PM   #173
bigben2k
Responsible for 2%
of all the posts here.
 
bigben2k's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Texas, U.S.A.
Posts: 8,302
Default

Here's a little flow action:

The outlet is sitting under ~5 inches of water, and still manages to push it up the sides, ~1 inch. Note the beginning of foam.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg johnson action.jpg (31.4 KB, 132 views)

Last edited by bigben2k; 07-24-2003 at 06:40 PM.
bigben2k is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 07-24-2003, 07:42 PM   #174
Yo-DUH_87
Cooling Savant
 
Yo-DUH_87's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Oregon, USA
Posts: 230
Default

Do the pumps emit much of a magnetic field? Can you hold them near a CRT monitor without distortion?

The only thing keeping me from ordering a mag drive is the magnetic field, and if these didn't have much of a magnetic field, I may get a pair of them
__________________
Signing out...
Yo-DUH_87

If it works, fix it until it's broke!
Then, after it's broke, add duct tape!

Affordable webhosting!
Yo-DUH_87 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 07-24-2003, 07:55 PM   #175
bigben2k
Responsible for 2%
of all the posts here.
 
bigben2k's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Texas, U.S.A.
Posts: 8,302
Default

They have a fixed magnetic field, because they're made with permanent magnets, so you can't hold them close to a monitor. As for EMI (variable magnetic field), I really wouldn't know, but I can tell you that the casing is steel, so I wouldn't expect much of anything.

You could run a wire from the case of the pump to ground: I just checked and there's no electrical connection to either lead (while there's one between the leads). A cap would probably be better here, as per the above link on the RC motors.
bigben2k is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 04:41 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
(C) 2005 ProCooling.com
If we in some way offend you, insult you or your people, screw your mom, beat up your dad, or poop on your porch... we're sorry... we were probably really drunk...
Oh and dont steal our content bitches! Don't give us a reason to pee in your open car window this summer...