What type of solder should i use, and how do i solder it!

jamicon · 10-30-2002, 03:27 AM

I have the copper for the block (milled) and the copper top, and of course, the copper pipe (for barbs).

and now i have to solder it.

will regular electronics grade solder (with electronics grade flux core) work?

or do i need something like silver solder? (where can i get it in AUS?)

the only silver solder i can find is tin/silver soldering paste.

and what would be the easyest way to solder it all together, i have a fine tipped electronics soldering iron, a roofing iron (big Mofo soldering iron), a mini blowtorch (good for heatshrink

) and a gas stove top

thanks for the help!

Volenti · 10-30-2002, 08:06 AM

electronics solder is fine (is all I use) use the blow torch to get the bulk of the heat into the block, the large roofing iron may be usefull for some parts.

get the copper clean, pre-tin the joints if possible, Bakers soldering fluid works wonders, apply it with a small brush while the copper is hot, it will leave a "pink" clean copper trail that the solder will simply race along

redleader · 10-30-2002, 05:43 PM

I've soldered copper over a BBQ, so the torch should work just fine.

Just be very carefull to get the copper clean! You need exposed, unoxidized Cu. So be sure to sand it a little or brush it. I've skipped doing that with pipes only to find that they come apart with a slight bump because the solder doesn't bind to the copper oxide.

Can O' Beans · 10-31-2002, 12:54 AM

I've found using a cheap brass wire brush helps a lot. Right before you're about to solder, take the brush, brush the copper nice & clean, apply flux & solder. Makes it a lot easier and the flux doesn't get as much time to burn away.

jamicon · 11-02-2002, 12:20 AM

so i should get solder without the flux already built into it, and then get some flux as well. Then put it on the BBQ, heat it up, grab a wire brush, scrape it clean, then quickly put the flux on and then a light coat of solder. is this right? i dont want to stuff up the block (cant afford to make a new one)

thanks

Volenti · 11-02-2002, 12:44 AM

Well I use resin cored solder as well as using an externally applied flux, copper will oxidize very quickly at the temprature that solder will melt at, even perfectly clean copper will have oxidized so much by the time it's up to temp that flux will still be needed.

I wouldn't worry too much about messing it up, that's the bonus of using lead/tin based solder, if you arse it all up simply heat the block back up and touch up the solder work, or take the block apart entirely, clean it up and try again.

Some of my blocks have been soldered, de-soldered then re-soldered many times.

jamicon · 11-02-2002, 12:47 AM

thanks guys!

i think i will try it this weekend, if i get the time

10-30-2002, 03:27 AM	#1
jamicon Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Australia Posts: 44	What type of solder should i use, and how do i solder it! I have the copper for the block (milled) and the copper top, and of course, the copper pipe (for barbs). and now i have to solder it. will regular electronics grade solder (with electronics grade flux core) work? or do i need something like silver solder? (where can i get it in AUS?) the only silver solder i can find is tin/silver soldering paste. and what would be the easyest way to solder it all together, i have a fine tipped electronics soldering iron, a roofing iron (big Mofo soldering iron), a mini blowtorch (good for heatshrink ) and a gas stove top thanks for the help!

10-30-2002, 08:06 AM	#2
Volenti Cooling Savant Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: in a nice cool spot Posts: 427	electronics solder is fine (is all I use) use the blow torch to get the bulk of the heat into the block, the large roofing iron may be usefull for some parts. get the copper clean, pre-tin the joints if possible, Bakers soldering fluid works wonders, apply it with a small brush while the copper is hot, it will leave a "pink" clean copper trail that the solder will simply race along __________________ feel free to icq/msn me, I'm always willing to toss around ideas.

11-02-2002, 12:44 AM	#6
Volenti Cooling Savant Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: in a nice cool spot Posts: 427	Well I use resin cored solder as well as using an externally applied flux, copper will oxidize very quickly at the temprature that solder will melt at, even perfectly clean copper will have oxidized so much by the time it's up to temp that flux will still be needed. I wouldn't worry too much about messing it up, that's the bonus of using lead/tin based solder, if you arse it all up simply heat the block back up and touch up the solder work, or take the block apart entirely, clean it up and try again. Some of my blocks have been soldered, de-soldered then re-soldered many times. __________________ feel free to icq/msn me, I'm always willing to toss around ideas.

10-30-2002, 05:43 PM	#3
redleader Thermophile Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: The deserts of Tucson, Az Posts: 1,264	I've soldered copper over a BBQ, so the torch should work just fine. Just be very carefull to get the copper clean! You need exposed, unoxidized Cu. So be sure to sand it a little or brush it. I've skipped doing that with pipes only to find that they come apart with a slight bump because the solder doesn't bind to the copper oxide.

10-31-2002, 12:54 AM	#4
Can O' Beans Cooling Savant Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Pa - USA Posts: 264	I've found using a cheap brass wire brush helps a lot. Right before you're about to solder, take the brush, brush the copper nice & clean, apply flux & solder. Makes it a lot easier and the flux doesn't get as much time to burn away.

11-02-2002, 12:20 AM	#5
jamicon Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Australia Posts: 44	so i should get solder without the flux already built into it, and then get some flux as well. Then put it on the BBQ, heat it up, grab a wire brush, scrape it clean, then quickly put the flux on and then a light coat of solder. is this right? i dont want to stuff up the block (cant afford to make a new one) thanks

11-02-2002, 12:47 AM	#7
jamicon Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Australia Posts: 44	thanks guys! i think i will try it this weekend, if i get the time

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