Lumpy block dimensions?

[Aviator747]

What are the rough dimensions of the lumpy channel block? Thickness, Width & Length? What are the channel & pin sizes? Can you give me the dimensions in inches please. I hate MM.

I was thinking of making a lumpy block that has a single central inlet & a dual outlet. Like the RBX. I will be using 1/2" barbs.

I am probally going to use a copper top & solder it on. As I think I would have a hard time obtaining Lucite or Polycarbonite.

Now do the pins come into contact with the top? Or is the top scooped out to stop them from contacting each other. Or are the pins cut short?

I guess I am looking at a cross between the Lumpy block/#rotors block & the RBX. I like that the #rotor can be used with a pelt. So I would like to be able to make a large enough block that can handle a pelt at a later date.

[jaydee]

Originally Posted by Aviator747

What are the rough dimensions of the lumpy channel block? Thickness, Width & Length? What are the channel & pin sizes? Can you give me the dimensions in inches please. I hate MM.

I am from the USA! No MM here. Block specs: http://www.customcooledpc.com/lm.php

I was thinking of making a lumpy block that has a single central inlet & a dual outlet. Like the RBX. I will be using 1/2" barbs.

My next revision will be the same.

I am probally going to use a copper top & solder it on. As I think I would have a hard time obtaining Lucite or Polycarbonite.

My next revision will have a copper top aswell, but not soldered.

Now do the pins come into contact with the top? Or is the top scooped out to stop them from contacting each other. Or are the pins cut short?

It dosn't have pins. Pins will probably decrease performance.

I do have a Pin version that pH will be testing sooner or later though.

I guess I am looking at a cross between the Lumpy block/#rotors block & the RBX. I like that the #rotor can be used with a pelt. So I would like to be able to make a large enough block that can handle a pelt at a later date.

Should be adaptable. Make more rows of pins.

Here is a picture of the pin version;
Inside:

Complete:

[Aviator747]

I didn't relize that there where two different blocks. One with connected pins
"O-O" and one with just pins "O O"

What version do you find better? "O-O" or "O O"?

Do you think that one inlet & two outlets would make much of a performance gain?

Those copper fittings that you have soldered on to your one block;what are they? They look like copper unions.

Is bolting down your top much of an extra benefit, compared to just soldering it on?

Is another chunk of 1/4" copper plate good enough for the top?

[Etacovda]

One of my blocks is central in, one out, with 1/2" barbs to nearly the exact same spec's as the lumpy channel; lol, as Jaydee published it, I thought "hmm, looks much like mine".

When i checked the dimensions on a converter, its almost indentical! My base plate is thicker for slightly better low flow performance, but I have also made a 1mm thick base version. My block is 9.5mm (3/8ths) copper though, so my channels are considerably deeper. This probably makes for worse performance at lower flow rates. With a temperature probe and two 1.6m head pumps, I see a dT of between 10 and 11.

This is pretty low resolution testing though, so take it with a huge grain of salt.

I found RTV silicon with bolts a far easier way to seal a block personally; I'd recommend it any time. Soldering can be a bit of a chore, but if you have the soldering gear now, then go for it

[jaydee]

Originally Posted by Aviator747

I didn't relize that there where two different blocks. One with connected pins
"O-O" and one with just pins "O O"

What version do you find better? "O-O" or "O O"?

Do you think that one inlet & two outlets would make much of a performance gain?

Those copper fittings that you have soldered on to your one block;what are they? They look like copper unions.

Is bolting down your top much of an extra benefit, compared to just soldering it on?

Is another chunk of 1/4" copper plate good enough for the top?

The non pinned one should work better with left to right flow in theory. Those blocks are not made the same though. The base on the pinned one is 1/8" with the copper 3/8" thick. I made it for lower flow rates. The Lumpy Channel has 1/16" base and 1/4" over all.

Yes 1/4" for the top is fine. I used 1/8" on my other blocks with those copper connectors. They are unions found in the plumbing section. I like them because the have a true 1/2"ID and the other end is 5/8" which covers more area for center inlets.

I would rather the top be bolted on with an o-ring myself. Easy maintenance.

[Etacovda]

Oh, if you have a mill, then the o-ring is the only way to go. I gathered from you mentioning the rotor block and this block being mentioned as a good diy block in pH's thread that you were dremel + drillpress.

[Aviator747]

I will be using a manual mill for construction.

For a pump I was thinking of a Eheim 1048 or a 1250 or something of the sort.

So which style do you think would be better? I know flow rate isn't only dependant on pump size. But, on system plumbing & configuration also.

1/2" barbs is what I would like to use.

I want to get my cpu block made first & then select my rad & what not afterwards. Eventually I want to make a SB & NB block also.

[jaydee]

Originally Posted by Aviator747

I will be using a manual mill for construction.

For a pump I was thinking of a Eheim 1048 or a 1250 or something of the sort.

So which style do you think would be better? I know flow rate isn't only dependant on pump size. But, on system plumbing & configuration also.

1/2" barbs is what I would like to use.

I want to get my cpu block made first & then select my rad & what not afterwards. Eventually I want to make a SB & NB block also.

pH is testing my pinned version. When he publishes the results I will have a better idea what works better. Pretty sure the Lumpy Channel block is better though.

[jaydee]

Originally Posted by Etacovda

Oh, if you have a mill, then the o-ring is the only way to go. I gathered from you mentioning the rotor block and this block being mentioned as a good diy block in pH's thread that you were dremel + drillpress.

Just don;t do the o-ring grove and the rest is fairy easy on a drill press. Don;t even need a dremel. Just use a 1/16" endmill to connect the holes or use a 1/16" drill bit and drill the hole connections first then do the regular holes. Jfettig brought that one to my attention.

[Aviator747]

Is a thicker base detremental on a higher flow rate system?

By soldering my top on I am hopping to get another couple of lumpy rows.

So is there any need for a dual outlet on this style block?

Also the ponds that under the inlet & outlet., they appear to about the same width across as the union fittings, eh?

Man there are so many variables to this project.

[jaydee]

Originally Posted by Aviator747

Is a thicker base detremental on a higher flow rate system?

By soldering my top on I am hopping to get another couple of lumpy rows.

So is there any need for a dual outlet on this style block?

Also the ponds that under the inlet & outlet., they appear to about the same width across as the union fittings, eh?

Man there are so many variables to this project.

Sorry for the late replies. I am on a road trip and only able to get on the net every few days.

Thicker base. Not really detrememntal but you loose a lot of the gain the higher flow rates would have given if the base was thinner. The nmore water you can push through the block the thinner the base you want. You're not trying to cool the copper you're trying to cool the die of the CPU. The more copper in the way the worst it is. But to thin and there will not be enough to transfer the heat decently.

You could get a couple more rows and not use an oring and still make a bolt on top, but whatever you want to do. Just make sure you lap it well after soldering as the copper can bend from the heat and cool down.

I would recommend a dual outlet if you use a center inlet. This block is very restrictive and any bit will help.

Those ponds are a little wider. The connectors are 5/8"OD and the total width of the inner channels is 7/8".

[Aviator747]

Hey thats all right. The info is appreciated.

I was planning on lapping the block no matter what way I was going to do it.

What would be a good easy to learn cad program to make a template. Preferably free or trialware or something of the sort.

[jaydee]

Originally Posted by Aviator747

Hey thats all right. The info is appreciated.

I was planning on lapping the block no matter what way I was going to do it.

What would be a good easy to learn cad program to make a template. Preferably free or trialware or something of the sort.

Not to sure on the CAD program. May try www.snapfiles.com and see if they have anything.

[pHaestus]

R-type looks to be the better block to me JayDee. Definitely better at low flow rates and lower resistance (so higher final flow rate). Give me another few hours and I'll post a graph up

[jaydee]

Originally Posted by pHaestus

R-type looks to be the better block to me JayDee. Definitely better at low flow rates and lower resistance (so higher final flow rate). Give me another few hours and I'll post a graph up

Really? I did test that block before I sent it and did have very good results. I thought my equipment was just off. Well so much for my above logic. At least I got the low flow part right.

Humm, I wonder how much those large connectors helped. The ID, IIRC, is 1/2" on that one and the ID was only 3/8" on the lumpy channel. The top on that block should bolt right on the lumpy channel aswell. When I get home I will see if I can salvage the lumpy channel base and send it back to you with another block I got done. Looks like I should have some mill time this weekend.

[Etacovda]

Ooo more compedition... I better look into getting that mill then, eh?

[jaydee]

Originally Posted by Etacovda

Ooo more compedition... I better look into getting that mill then, eh?

Hurry up!

Graph done yet pH?

[Aviator747]

Ya, know kiddin eh. ; So I know what block is better to build. You have any pics of your R-Type block JayDee116?

[jaydee]

Originally Posted by Aviator747

Ya, know kiddin eh. ; So I know what block is better to build. You have any pics of your R-Type block JayDee116?

It is the same pin block in the pics above.

[pHaestus]

I am full of red wine and prime rib and the likelihood of my listening to loud 120mm fans tonight is slim

[jaydee]

Originally Posted by pHaestus

I am full of red wine and prime rib and the likelihood of my listening to loud 120mm fans tonight is slim

Excellent excuse! I am not in a huge hurry anyway.

Another thing about the flow rate, IIRC, is that the pins are higher than the channel walls of the Lumpy Channel by 1/16". I might re-do the lumpy channel base with 1/4" high channel walls next time. Will be drawing it up here in the next 4 days and hopefully make a few blocks the following weekend. Need copper and end mills which I keep forgetting or I would have done it this weekend. :shrug: Hell I still need to finalize the Project X block to not to mention get started on the Lumpy Channel TEC block which may turn into a pin block depending on your results.

I just got home from a road trip and it is 100F outside and 90F inside. Damn AC can't keep up.

[jaydee]

Almost impressed with myself.

[Etacovda]

lol, you should be impressed good work jaydee

I guess the Inlet and Outlet sizes make quite a difference(?); i wonder how the lumpy channel would perform with slightly wider channels (ie, 2mm instead of 1.5) and the same size inlets, for the same pump...

[jaydee]

Originally Posted by Etacovda

lol, you should be impressed good work jaydee

I guess the Inlet and Outlet sizes make quite a difference(?); i wonder how the lumpy channel would perform with slightly wider channels (ie, 2mm instead of 1.5) and the same size inlets, for the same pump...

I will send the Lumpy Channel base back to pH. The R-Type top should bolt right on. I don't think the barb size was the main difference though.

[Etacovda]

yeah, id suspect not either, but im sure they would be a bit closer without the restriction (3/8ths inlet/outlet was it?)

Amazing how well a pingrid block can do if constructed well, eh? Be really interesting to see what that can do with centre in, dual out...