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Water Block Design / Construction Building your own block? Need info on designing one? Heres where to do it

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Unread 04-11-2003, 10:28 AM   #1
Tuff
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Default Is your waterblock seated properly?

A poorly seated block might result in a higher than hoped for temp. Sometimes 10-15 deg C or to the point where the comp will not even boot (Thermal protection kicks in)

To avoid this problem I now install my block with Tension bolts placed on either side of the bracket. (Even if you are mounting with the 4 bolts in the corners..you can still have problems)

Here is what to do...Remove your bracket and cut some 1/4 in threads(in the bracket) on either side where the cpu touches the block. Thread a nut onto a 7/16 headx3/4longx1/4 in bolt. You do this so that you can set the tension and have it stay.

Install the bolts, into the bracket and mount your waterblock normally.

Next boot the comp...hopefully getting into the bios.
Search through the bios to find the temp of the cpu.

Now if you have just booted the comp ColdBoot you should see temps in the high teens or low 20's. If you see any temps higher30's-40's... your block is not seated properly.

With your HAND turn one of the bolts and watch the temp in your bios. If the temp increases...loosen the bolt off to flush. Next turn the other bolt. If the temp Decreases... you have found the problem. Set the bolt for the lowest temp and tighten down the set nut.
You have sucessfully installed your waterblock.

Tuff uses a modified aluminum channel block xp1700@2020ghz 1.8v @23deg c
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Unread 04-11-2003, 10:35 AM   #2
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I know you're going to include a pic or diagram, right? I just read that over 4 times, and it still doesn't make sense to me:shrug:
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Unread 04-11-2003, 10:41 AM   #3
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I use springs. If you use similar springs and get them to be the same compressed length, you have equal force across the block.
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Unread 04-11-2003, 10:47 AM   #4
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BB...I really wish I could..I dont have a cam...but I will look to see if I can find one



-----------------------
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-
- + X X X +
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-
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The + signs are the bolts X's are the barbs. When the waterblock is mounted you can turn either bolt to tighen down a side that is not properly seated.

The bolts go through the Mount...and push against the waterblock.

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Unread 04-11-2003, 11:02 AM   #5
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Use some fine 1337 MS paint skills!

Here's the mount to my block. I'll be using 6-32 bolts, and 4 compression springs.
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File Type: jpg radius_large_asm5 rev2.jpg (61.6 KB, 218 views)
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Unread 04-11-2003, 11:38 AM   #6
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I have seen oddly high tmeperatures with the Innovatek block and TbredAs; I never figured out whether it was mounting issue (cores are tiny), slight difference in height of the core (AMD doesn't mention it in specs if so), bad temp readings, or just a stupidly hot chip.

For using blocks that use the AMD holes, I almost always cut a hole in the motherboard tray use regular machine screws, and mount the springs on the backside of the motherboard. If you want to be able to close your case when done then you'll have to use pretty short screws and so the springs have to be slightly compressed to get the nuts on the end. This keeps the block flat the whole time you tighten down the nuts. It also makes it easy to get the same torque all around because there are no hoses in the way on the backside. Works great! Here's a pic:

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Unread 04-11-2003, 07:17 PM   #7
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pHaestus, that's a very good idea. Pity i can't do that with my case (SLK2600AMB with non-removeable top-and-side panel )
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Unread 04-11-2003, 07:38 PM   #8
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If you decide to do this, it also makes sense to also make a nonconductive plate to put between the motherboard and the springs so that the PCB doesnt take so much stress
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Unread 04-12-2003, 04:46 AM   #9
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Now that's a good idea PH, the mobo bowing can throw it out of true unless you have a cast iron socket . I've been thinking of cutting a square out of alu to strenghten up the back of my graphics card for when mounting a block, I'd have to cut knotches for the resistors and SMT capacitors and line the bottom with an thin insulator. I want it to double as a passive heatsink as well though...

I've never considered the CPU socket though...
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Unread 04-12-2003, 08:32 AM   #10
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When you cut your aluminum square for the video card, just use plastic stand-offs. This does a couple of things:

1) It pretty much garantees that the aluminum will be an equal height over the pcb at all corners.

2) It raises the aluminum far enough off the pcb that it eliminates the need to cut holes for the pcb components, as well as insulating the bottom side.

3) Doesn't trap heat in the pcb because the aluminum is at least 1/2 inch from touching the PCB.

If you also put 3 or four standoffs in the center, there's almost no way you could warp your pcb by over-tightening.
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Unread 04-13-2003, 04:35 AM   #11
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I want it to act as a HS though, otherwise I'd probably use 1/2inch polycarb for the job :shrug: ...

Also the piece(sp?) needs to support the PCB over it's entire surface area, to spread the load and prevent flexing...
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Unread 04-16-2003, 12:57 AM   #12
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pHaestus, here is a tip.

I too have done what you did but with one exception.

I used long bolts and put the head side on the bottom of the motherboard with a washer between the heads and the motherboard. To tighted/remove I just grab a hex bit screwdriver and turn the nut on the top of the block and hold the screw from the bottom.

This way the case fits on just fine. and you still have the ease of install.
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Unread 04-16-2003, 02:00 AM   #13
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Asmordean! You still at [H]?
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Unread 04-16-2003, 05:22 PM   #14
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Not so much anymore. I spend more time over at Pheaton's Forums.
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Unread 04-16-2003, 10:04 PM   #15
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My cpu is about 20f over ambient at all times, maze 3-1 and a bix, 90cfm fan. Underload, ie folding or gaming.

Thats pretty normal right as for knowing that its seated properly? I know it was a bit higher before I cleaned out my water about a month ago.
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Unread 04-16-2003, 10:17 PM   #16
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/me rummages around for calculator...7°C over ambient? Not sure, that depends upon how your water is cooled, your pump, your block, and your CPU.

In silent mode (fan at 3V) my CPU runs at 15°C over ambient.
In annoyinglyloud mode (fan at 12V) my CPU runs at about 7°C over ambient.

My setup is optimized for sound, not tempature. Ever been near a 2.2GHz PC whose loudest componet is speaker hiss?
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Unread 04-16-2003, 10:42 PM   #17
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Yeah, I have a 120mm fan at 12v, its an enermax, running at 7v the temps raise slightly, 2-3f, 1-2c. It goes, pump, cpu, rad. Small T adapter for my filling, air trap. Its also overclocked which causes about 2-3c increase. I'm happy with it.

Also, I did have it seated wrong once, and it shot upto 90c which made me crap my pants. I thought my cpu would be toast after that. But having it run at no more than 105f in over a year and a half is pretty good for it I hope.
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