New design idea.

[BaThMaN]

Originally posted by theetruscan
It says 2mm jets,
in a piece of copper 1/8" thick.

i think his referring to the second illustration, wherein no "jet" has been disclosed...

[bigben2k]

Uh, yes, the 2nd one (aka "what I'm ready to do"). So it has no jets? or it's a single jet?

As you can see, I'm also concerned with the height clearance, which is why I proposed microtubes.:shrug:

[BaThMaN]

not really sure what type of jet im going to put in there... a dual 2mm slit maybe? like || or something like + a 2mm cross or a "pizzapie" slit (+ plus diagonals on it)...

i think I want to go to the first route... I think it's worth the effort to travel 220+km (440+km back n forth) just to have 1/8" copper slab (grrrr! my fare would be like 10 times expensive than the copper itself )

[bigben2k]

Originally posted by leejsmith
This is an idea i had for a water delivery system in the wb.



cut channels into a star and then if possible make an outer circle and an inner. Then drill the holes into the channles. If made correct you should be able to direct the jets at the cones in the base plate.

then just place it under the inlet barb as a middle layer.

if a little more effort and thought was put into it i am sure it will work.

That's been puzzling me, ever since you posted it:

What is it?

[leejsmith]

Originally posted by bigben2k
That's been puzzling me, ever since you posted it:

What is it?

hi ben,

i was playing with an idea that could point a jet to each indent in a base plate. I think volenti's idea worked better. The channels cut into the acrylic would be to restrictive.

how is the project going you have generated some good ideas in this thread. Has cather had a base milled yet ?

are you still working on a plastic top ? i found you can make the sides of the top where you cut it look clear if you quickly lap it down to 1500 grit then coat it with clear spary.

[bigben2k]

That's a good tip, on the plastic top.

I just might try to build this block (microtubes and all) but for now, I'm focusing on Radius. In it, I opted for a 1/2" thick polycarbonate top. It will be sealed with an o-ring.

Then I might do the CPU backside cooler, then add some blue LEDs, the UV dye, the 4 UV CCFL tubes, the blue corrosion inhibitor, and methylene blue (if I can find it!).

[leejsmith]

just keep the ideas flowing.

The backside cooling looks like a good project.

what do you use your pc for ? i forgot what i use my for i spend all my time making stuff for it.

I have nearly finished painting a cheiftec full tower to hold my new water cooled rig. i spent almost as much on stuff to paint it as the case itself and i am still waiting for the thermaltake skived copper cooler so i can make the new water block with the jet system.

[bigben2k]

LOL! I've got the same case (Chieftec Dragon DA-01, 26" tall), and I'm also re-painting it, in metallic "hammered" charcoal Rustoleum paint, but I haven't started doing that yet. I have to put a window in that side panel too. I'm waiting for my Dremel to be shipped to me!

If you want a funky project, look at this one: 600 Watts of power (actually 900W).

Then there's the HDD block.

Not sure which one I'm building first, but the copper is coming for Radius and the HDD block, but I've got Yo-Duh's trick to link the PSUs, and I can't wait to get started on that one, but I haven't ordered the parts yet.

[bigben2k]

Originally posted by leejsmith
what do you use your pc for ? i forgot ...

I forgot too! Many ideas, not enough time.

SolidWorks 2003 is the first software I'm installing, even before MS Office.

[g.l.amour]

would this work volenti?

you might not notice, but this is a ripoff of your design, except that i dremel away your last 3mm plexi layer, out of my copper bottom plate.

this is not because i chose to dremel it away, its just that my copperbar is 10mm thick :-(

[Volenti]

Originally posted by g.l.amour
would this work volenti?

you might not notice, but this is a ripoff of your design, except that i dremel away your last 3mm plexi layer, out of my copper bottom plate.

this is not because i chose to dremel it away, its just that my copperbar is 10mm thick :-(

Yea that will be fine, though you should be able to sneak the middle holes down a bit deeper, say another 1mm.

Well having the water exit channel in the copper BP makes the top a lot simpler to make

[g.l.amour]

lol, yeah, that plexy sure is a behatch to work in...

if i get it that makes from top to bottom:
3.7mm
4.5mm
1.8mm

i hope the 1250 can get the jets going over that distance, maybe i should take away the 2 - 4 - 8 - 10 o'clock holes of the jets.

[Volenti]

Originally posted by g.l.amour
lol, yeah, that plexy sure is a behatch to work in...

if i get it that makes from top to bottom:
3.7mm
4.5mm
1.8mm

i hope the 1250 can get the jets going over that distance, maybe i should take away the 2 - 4 - 8 - 10 o'clock holes of the jets.

nah that pump will be fine over that distance, leave the 9 jet's as they are, in my subjective under water testing the jet's still have "bite" up to 15mm away with a pump only slightly more powerfull then the 1250.

[g.l.amour]

why, thank you for all those kind words and advice ;-)

to work then...

[Puzzdre]

Time for another challenge m8?!

Go Go Go!

[g.l.amour]

well, thx,

gonna try doing it real slow. the holes for the jets need to be lined up perfectly.

other thing is that i only have cheap ass plexi 2mm thick; so have already glued 3 sheets together to get 6mm for the barbs. if it turns out ok, it will be the ultimately cool for the inventiveness of the used materials.

[Gulp35]

Hi guys,
I was planning on building one of these block but first I was going to see if it would perform better than my simulated channel block. Using the Cryoterm (I think that is the place) jet impingement calculator I would find out and compare the H values. But I don't know how much pressure drop the block would create.

Volenti, perhaps you could measure the flow through the block and guestimate how much pressure drop, thanks.

If it helps my design would be using 7, 1.5mm diameter holes.

[leejsmith]

Originally posted by g.l.amour
well, thx,

gonna try doing it real slow. the holes for the jets need to be lined up perfectly.

other thing is that i only have cheap ass plexi 2mm thick; so have already glued 3 sheets together to get 6mm for the barbs. if it turns out ok, it will be the ultimately cool for the inventiveness of the used materials.

do you have an ikea close to you ?
if yes then go and get an acrylic picture frame they have 2 pieces 1 is 10mm thick and the other as 2mm. i pay 7 pounds in the uk. perfect for making block tops.

[BaThMaN]

guys need your opinion/comments/suggesions on this one... got all the materials... only need an ample amount of time

[BaThMaN]

for reference, the cross line in the middle measures 18mm.

[Volenti]

Originally posted by Gulp35
Hi guys,
I was planning on building one of these block but first I was going to see if it would perform better than my simulated channel block. Using the Cryoterm (I think that is the place) jet impingement calculator I would find out and compare the H values. But I don't know how much pressure drop the block would create.

Volenti, perhaps you could measure the flow through the block and guestimate how much pressure drop, thanks.

If it helps my design would be using 7, 1.5mm diameter holes.

Pump, "pond" style rated at 2800L/H and 2.5m head max.

block, 9x 1.5mm jet holes

"free" flow (through 1m 1/2'' tubing, 0 head) 1296L/H

flow through block; 277L/H

pressure drop; lots

[Volenti]

Originally posted by BaThMaN
guys need your opinion/comments/suggesions on this one... got all the materials... only need an ample amount of time

http://www.geocities.com/beaukeke/pooh.txt

rotate the jet/hole pattern by 90 degrees to better cover the "heat signature" of the rectangular T-bred core, either that or add another 3 jet holes to either side of your existing design, the holes in the base that aren't "recieving" jet's are doing buggerall and should be omitted for strength.

looks good.

oh, remember to try and aviod large spans of thin base plate, it will tend to bend on you.

[g.l.amour]

thx for a gr8 tip leejsmith

[leejsmith]

no problem.
If you want to make it look nice lap the sides down to 1500 grit after you cut it and then spary with clear paint.
It will go perfectly clear

good luck.

lee

[g.l.amour]

thx, i will need it; first time i need to do the higher precision jet design. first time i will be working in plexi.

so, u mean to spray clear paint on the plexi?