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General Liquid/Water Cooling Discussion For discussion about Full Cooling System kits, or general cooling topics. Keep specific cooling items like pumps, radiators, etc... in their specific forums. |
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08-23-2003, 12:35 PM | #251 |
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Just to update this thread, because it's being linked to, from all around the world...
Khledar's got a leak with his two pumps. Details are here. Still too early to tell if it's user induced, or a pump flaw. |
08-24-2003, 06:07 PM | #252 |
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Another update:
for those looking for an easy/cheap way to reduce the 3/4" connection down to 1/2", I found something dirt cheap, at a local hardware store that'll work. Forney Industries p/n 72396. It's actually a reducing bushing for grinding wheels, almost 1" long. It's composed of three hollow cylinders, that fit within each other. The smallest ring has an OD of 5/8". The middle is 3/4" OD, and the outer one is 1". By "Goop" 'ing the appropriate sizes together, one can make a cheap reducer. You could even adapt 1" ID tubing, if you really needed to! I picked it up on sale for $0.25 each. There's also p/n 72395, but it's not quite as long: almost 3/4". |
08-24-2003, 06:32 PM | #253 |
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bigben2k,
What are these Forney Industries bushings made from (brass, plastic or something else)?
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08-25-2003, 10:47 AM | #254 |
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Oops, sorry. It's plastic.
I'll try a couple of different glues to see which one works best, and report results. |
08-25-2003, 11:12 AM | #255 |
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Thanks bigben2k
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08-25-2003, 12:38 PM | #256 |
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bigben: for the redcludition from 3/4 to 1/2 inch hose, what i did was put an strong clamp on the outside of the pastic pipe, then we threaded the inside of the pipe, clean out the craps out, then took some 3/4 to 1/2 inch barb, basicaly just a barb with a 3/4 inch screw on one end other end a 1/2 inch barb, put some goop on it screw it in and were good to go works great. only problem is with the location where the pump is, so if it leak i' m screwed will need a damn small bowl to take care of the leak but hopfully we can get a 2rd-3rd backup and put the barbs on and take em with me just in case its a pump flaw.
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08-25-2003, 01:09 PM | #257 | |
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Quote:
You'd best deal with the pump leaking as if it is a foregone conclusion. |
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08-29-2003, 04:47 PM | #258 | |
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Quote:
I first tried Devcon's "Plastic Welder" (available at Wall-Wart), which works on just about any hard plastic. I used a couple of drops, to glue the two 1" outer rings I had, which are extras to me. Within minutes, they were bonded as hard as a rock. I really couldn't take them apart, without pliers. So it makes a really good bond, but I'll still seal it with Goop, because that's the only way I know to make sure that there's no leak. edit: the "Plastic Welder" managed to soften up the plastic, but didn't have a chemical reaction with it. There might be some "soft" component to this plastic. A cyanoacrylate glue may work better. |
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10-21-2003, 07:26 AM | #259 |
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My johnson pump just BURNED.
REached downstairs, nice burn smell, go check, pc off. Try to turn it on, turn on half a second, shuts off. Its a short. Check the pump. smells burned. Disconnect it and quick test the system. It booted! Dismounted the whole pump. The brushes MELTED! Thats it. i dont know about the 150+ bucks around, but this surplus one suks completely. Inside of the pump, the litle piece of plastic that holds the brushes, doesnt have anything that hold it in place. It could be a litle bit more in front, a litle bit more in back (bad english explanation). Bought a JBL ProFlow maxi pump, 1000l/h,1,48 m head 19,0 mm intake, 12,5 mm outake. Lost nearly 70 mhz in overclock, althout the temperature is still the same. Go figure. |
10-21-2003, 09:28 AM | #260 |
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Finally?
Finally I got my package from Surplus Center...
I ordered (and paid) it in the beginning of june, first delivery went back to the states without any apparent reason, second delivery has been lost by USPS, third delivery (for which I paid an additional shipping fee of 55$ for being delivered by Bax Global!) only contained one of the two pumps that I paid for.... After waiting for more than 4.5 months I paid 165$ (shipping & taxes included) for just ONE pump that I probably will never use... CD
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10-21-2003, 12:08 PM | #261 |
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Seems like a few got burned on this deal
I'll see about setting up mine for some longer term testing. In the mean time, here are the pics of my conversion: #1 - open view of the rotor/stator |
10-21-2003, 12:09 PM | #262 |
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#2 - side view of the rotor, with the spring and retainer attached
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10-21-2003, 12:10 PM | #263 |
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#3 - brush housing (top view)
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10-21-2003, 12:11 PM | #264 |
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#4 - brush housing, with brush springs, and the mounted diode. (top view)
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10-21-2003, 12:12 PM | #265 |
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#5 - brush housing, side view, with caps mounted
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10-21-2003, 12:14 PM | #266 |
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#6 - brush housing w/strings in place to re-assemble the pump.
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10-21-2003, 12:16 PM | #267 |
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#7 - re-assembly (pull the strings to slip the spring and retainer passed the brushes, then cut and remove the strings)
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10-21-2003, 12:26 PM | #268 |
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#8 - the finished product, with the last cap sitting outside.
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10-21-2003, 12:28 PM | #269 |
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Extra #1 - some pumpage action shots
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10-21-2003, 12:29 PM | #270 |
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Extra #2 - closeup
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10-21-2003, 12:48 PM | #271 |
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BB2K, it was the brush housing that melted.
In the pic of the brush housing, side view, it can be seen that the brush housing is parallel with the "black box". But there is nothing holing it, be sure that when you mount it, it stays parallel. The best thing you shoud do is, at some manner, "glue" (or something like) the brush housing to the "black box". |
10-21-2003, 01:46 PM | #272 | |
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Quote:
I used this exact pump for a year, switched to Iwaki due to noise and higher pressure for my setup. The LG is for sale.... |
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10-21-2003, 07:21 PM | #273 | |
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10-26-2003, 07:05 AM | #274 | |
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10-27-2003, 12:50 PM | #275 | |
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