New Design: Ww+rotor - Page 4

Balinju · 04-03-2003, 09:57 AM

and i also saw this xy-table

What do you think??

Balinju · 04-03-2003, 01:07 PM

Now i have a question and i think that there is quite something to discuss in it.

you know that the wb in the middle will have drilled holes. now my question is this, do you think that it is better to drill the holes some millimeters further down than the fins or not?? what i mean is that is it better to make the holes look like dimplets or better have a straight finish??

thank you for your help and comments

Balinju · 04-04-2003, 05:55 AM

no help??

no discussion??

utabintarbo · 04-04-2003, 07:00 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Balinju
Now i have a question and i think that there is quite something to discuss in it.

you know that the wb in the middle will have drilled holes. now my question is this, do you think that it is better to drill the holes some millimeters further down than the fins or not?? what i mean is that is it better to make the holes look like dimplets or better have a straight finish??

thank you for your help and comments

If you go that route, just dimple the bottom. Don't go too deep.

Bob

Balinju · 04-04-2003, 10:00 AM

Thank you utabintarbo.

Now just a little update on how the work is going. The aluminium is bought, i bought 32cmx6cmx8mm so that i can construct 4 blocks.

I also bought the xy table and a 1 x 1mm bit and 1 x 5 mm bit.

now i am planning to do the following constructs.
Block1: 4mm base : 4mm deep channels
Block2: 3mm base : 4mm deep channels
Block3: 3mm base : 3mm deep channels
Block4: 2mm base : 4mm deep channels

All these blocks are going to be milled out in al

Any suggestions/comments before i start milling??

bigben2k · 04-04-2003, 10:20 AM

You probably want to stick with 4mm channels, but try 1 and 2 mm BPs.

Balinju · 04-04-2003, 10:42 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by bigben2k
You probably want to stick with 4mm channels, but try 1 and 2 mm BPs.

i will ben, thank you for the suggstion. the problem that i want to stick with 4mm channels is that the 1mm end mill that i got is only 4mm long. i wished that it was 5mm but he had no 5mm long endmills 1mm diameter

Balinju · 04-04-2003, 10:48 AM

so new configuration:

Block1: 4mm base : 4mm deep channels
Block2: 3mm base : 4mm deep channels
Block3: 2mm base : 4mm deep channels
Block4: 1mm base : 4mm deep channels (this is going to be a bit difficult considering that i am milling in al and with a drill press and an xy table)

bigben2k · 04-04-2003, 11:17 AM

I wouldn't bother with the 4mm baseplate. It's been demonstrated here numerous times that for this design, it's too much.

I'd try 1mm for sure, and 2mm for reference/testing.

Balinju · 04-04-2003, 11:43 AM

ok then ben, thank you for your reply. maybe i would also try the 3mm base plate to see how it does in al

Balinju · 04-04-2003, 11:44 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Balinju
Now i have a question and i think that there is quite something to discuss in it.

you know that the wb in the middle will have drilled holes. now my question is this, do you think that it is better to drill the holes some millimeters further down than the fins or not?? what i mean is that is it better to make the holes look like dimplets or better have a straight finish??

thank you for your help and comments

anyone can suggest anything else?

hara · 04-04-2003, 11:49 AM

Try It out! My suggestion is this:

First try to not drill the holes at all
Then try drilling them 3mm deep
Then try drilling them 4mm deep
Then try drilling them 4.5mm deep (in a 2mm baseplate)

For this test you will only "waste" 1 wb.

That is all

Balinju · 04-04-2003, 11:52 AM

you mean drilling the holes 2mm less than the depth of the fins???:shrug:

Balinju · 04-04-2003, 12:07 PM

i did not intend to do that at all, i was wondering whether drilling the holes the same depth of the fins or a little bit more creating some sort of dimplets

hara · 04-04-2003, 12:17 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Balinju
you mean drilling the holes 2mm less than the depth of the fins???:shrug:

No, 1mm less

Balinju · 04-04-2003, 12:23 PM

that's going to be very hard to mill

harder than milling 2 of the others.

maybe i could try one also. Thanky for for the suggestion

Balinju · 04-05-2003, 01:11 PM

ok so i began the milling with a drill press and an xy table

the 1mm channels where coming very good and neath (i did not excpect that acuracy) until my 1mm cobalt end mill split up into 2 pieces

and the funniest thing is that i could not find where the piece of the end mill ended.
this ruined my block, i have to start it all over again

some problems encountered during milling with the drill press:
i will have to make the channels equally long because i could not calculate exactly on my eye where i had to start the channel with the 1mm bit from far away.

i managed to do the sides holes, the place which holes the water before it exits the block. that was quite an easy job and the milling came quite nice. i did that using a 5mm 3flute end mill.

but the 1mm end mill

Balinju · 04-05-2003, 01:17 PM

what is the best thing, making the channels long as the longest one or short as the shortest one?? or a way in the middle??:shrug:

bigben2k · 04-05-2003, 01:57 PM

I got a deal on 1mm carbide endmills, for $2.50 a piece (qty: 10).

Do you want in?

Balinju · 04-05-2003, 06:16 PM

of toys, ehh sorry of coarse, where did you get those bits from?? can you give me the source web site please??

bigben2k · 04-05-2003, 08:05 PM

http://www.drilltechnology.com/

I actually e-mailed them for a quote, because going over "Warehouse#20" was getting a bit tedious! You won't find the price I quoted you either

unless you e-mail them.

Look for extended length, 2 flute, square ended, endmills. My part# is EM2XL-0400. The diameter is actually 0.0400 inch, but that's as close as I could get it to 1.0 mm, which is 0.0394. Since it's an american measurement, it's cheaper, for me.

When I told the guy what I needed it for (milling channels in copper) and asked for TIN coating, he said that these were "Sub Micro Grain Carbide", and that TIN coating wouldn't be necessary: it should be strong enough. He can add the coating, for $2.00 extra per bit (he can also add TIAlN for an extra $3).

Since you're in Malta, I'd be willing to help you out, if you want to order directly, through an intermediary, or you can wait until I place my order, to add yours to mine.

[edit]
Here's a direct link. Note the flute depth, at 1/4" (6.35mm)!!!

Balinju · 04-06-2003, 01:54 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by bigben2k
http://www.drilltechnology.com/

Since you're in Malta, I'd be willing to help you out, if you want to order directly, through an intermediary, or you can wait until I place my order, to add yours to mine.

[edit]
Here's a direct link. Note the flute depth, at 1/4" (6.35mm)!!!

when are you going to order them?? i could wait for you, or otherwise, do you think if i ask the same price that you were given, they could sell those bits to me the same price??

bigben2k · 04-06-2003, 07:53 AM

I don't know exactly. I'm waiting for Fixittt to let me know if he's willing and able to cut Radius with them.

One thing I didn't mention: I don't believe that these are center cutting endmills: is this a problem for you?

Balinju · 04-06-2003, 08:01 AM

Quote:

center cutting endmills

sorry but i don't know the difference

bigben2k · 04-06-2003, 08:07 AM

A center cutting endmill can make a plunging cut, i.e. you can use it as a drill bit, to drill a hole.

If the bit is NOT center cutting, then it can only cut from the side, i.e. as you're cutting the channels. That means that you'd have to make a starting hole, using a regular drill bit.

04-03-2003, 09:57 AM	#76
Balinju Cooling Savant Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Malta Posts: 495	and i also saw this xy-table What do you think?? __________________ So the bullet proof vest aint a $hit when d laser is pointed to your head Kid

04-03-2003, 01:07 PM	#77
Balinju Cooling Savant Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Malta Posts: 495	Now i have a question and i think that there is quite something to discuss in it. you know that the wb in the middle will have drilled holes. now my question is this, do you think that it is better to drill the holes some millimeters further down than the fins or not?? what i mean is that is it better to make the holes look like dimplets or better have a straight finish?? thank you for your help and comments __________________ So the bullet proof vest aint a $hit when d laser is pointed to your head Kid

04-04-2003, 05:55 AM	#78
Balinju Cooling Savant Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Malta Posts: 495	no help?? no discussion?? __________________ So the bullet proof vest aint a $hit when d laser is pointed to your head Kid

04-04-2003, 10:00 AM	#80
Balinju Cooling Savant Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Malta Posts: 495	Thank you utabintarbo. Now just a little update on how the work is going. The aluminium is bought, i bought 32cmx6cmx8mm so that i can construct 4 blocks. I also bought the xy table and a 1 x 1mm bit and 1 x 5 mm bit. now i am planning to do the following constructs. Block1: 4mm base : 4mm deep channels Block2: 3mm base : 4mm deep channels Block3: 3mm base : 3mm deep channels Block4: 2mm base : 4mm deep channels All these blocks are going to be milled out in al Any suggestions/comments before i start milling?? __________________ So the bullet proof vest aint a $hit when d laser is pointed to your head Kid

04-04-2003, 10:20 AM	#81
bigben2k Responsible for 2% of all the posts here. Join Date: May 2002 Location: Texas, U.S.A. Posts: 8,302	You probably want to stick with 4mm channels, but try 1 and 2 mm BPs. __________________ WBTA (Water Block Testing Alliance) Nordic Hardware WC 101

04-04-2003, 10:48 AM	#83
Balinju Cooling Savant Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Malta Posts: 495	so new configuration: Block1: 4mm base : 4mm deep channels Block2: 3mm base : 4mm deep channels Block3: 2mm base : 4mm deep channels Block4: 1mm base : 4mm deep channels (this is going to be a bit difficult considering that i am milling in al and with a drill press and an xy table) __________________ So the bullet proof vest aint a $hit when d laser is pointed to your head Kid

04-04-2003, 11:17 AM	#84
bigben2k Responsible for 2% of all the posts here. Join Date: May 2002 Location: Texas, U.S.A. Posts: 8,302	I wouldn't bother with the 4mm baseplate. It's been demonstrated here numerous times that for this design, it's too much. I'd try 1mm for sure, and 2mm for reference/testing. __________________ WBTA (Water Block Testing Alliance) Nordic Hardware WC 101

04-04-2003, 11:43 AM	#85
Balinju Cooling Savant Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Malta Posts: 495	ok then ben, thank you for your reply. maybe i would also try the 3mm base plate to see how it does in al __________________ So the bullet proof vest aint a $hit when d laser is pointed to your head Kid

04-04-2003, 11:49 AM	#87
hara Cooling Savant Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Malta, Mediterranean Posts: 662	Try It out! My suggestion is this: First try to not drill the holes at all Then try drilling them 3mm deep Then try drilling them 4mm deep Then try drilling them 4.5mm deep (in a 2mm baseplate) For this test you will only "waste" 1 wb. That is all __________________ - Every great HD crash day is the day before back-up day. - My Past System - "Better to reign in Hell than serve in Heaven." - Milton, Paradise Lost. - FMZ

04-04-2003, 11:52 AM	#88
Balinju Cooling Savant Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Malta Posts: 495	you mean drilling the holes 2mm less than the depth of the fins???:shrug: __________________ So the bullet proof vest aint a $hit when d laser is pointed to your head Kid

04-04-2003, 12:07 PM	#89
Balinju Cooling Savant Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Malta Posts: 495	i did not intend to do that at all, i was wondering whether drilling the holes the same depth of the fins or a little bit more creating some sort of dimplets __________________ So the bullet proof vest aint a $hit when d laser is pointed to your head Kid

04-04-2003, 12:23 PM	#91
Balinju Cooling Savant Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Malta Posts: 495	that's going to be very hard to mill harder than milling 2 of the others. maybe i could try one also. Thanky for for the suggestion __________________ So the bullet proof vest aint a $hit when d laser is pointed to your head Kid

04-05-2003, 01:11 PM	#92
Balinju Cooling Savant Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Malta Posts: 495	ok so i began the milling with a drill press and an xy table the 1mm channels where coming very good and neath (i did not excpect that acuracy) until my 1mm cobalt end mill split up into 2 pieces and the funniest thing is that i could not find where the piece of the end mill ended. this ruined my block, i have to start it all over again some problems encountered during milling with the drill press: i will have to make the channels equally long because i could not calculate exactly on my eye where i had to start the channel with the 1mm bit from far away. i managed to do the sides holes, the place which holes the water before it exits the block. that was quite an easy job and the milling came quite nice. i did that using a 5mm 3flute end mill. but the 1mm end mill __________________ So the bullet proof vest aint a $hit when d laser is pointed to your head Kid

04-05-2003, 01:17 PM	#93
Balinju Cooling Savant Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Malta Posts: 495	what is the best thing, making the channels long as the longest one or short as the shortest one?? or a way in the middle??:shrug: __________________ So the bullet proof vest aint a $hit when d laser is pointed to your head Kid

04-05-2003, 01:57 PM	#94
bigben2k Responsible for 2% of all the posts here. Join Date: May 2002 Location: Texas, U.S.A. Posts: 8,302	I got a deal on 1mm carbide endmills, for $2.50 a piece (qty: 10). Do you want in? __________________ WBTA (Water Block Testing Alliance) Nordic Hardware WC 101

04-05-2003, 06:16 PM	#95
Balinju Cooling Savant Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Malta Posts: 495	of toys, ehh sorry of coarse, where did you get those bits from?? can you give me the source web site please?? __________________ So the bullet proof vest aint a $hit when d laser is pointed to your head Kid

04-05-2003, 08:05 PM	#96
bigben2k Responsible for 2% of all the posts here. Join Date: May 2002 Location: Texas, U.S.A. Posts: 8,302	http://www.drilltechnology.com/ I actually e-mailed them for a quote, because going over "Warehouse#20" was getting a bit tedious! You won't find the price I quoted you either unless you e-mail them. Look for extended length, 2 flute, square ended, endmills. My part# is EM2XL-0400. The diameter is actually 0.0400 inch, but that's as close as I could get it to 1.0 mm, which is 0.0394. Since it's an american measurement, it's cheaper, for me. When I told the guy what I needed it for (milling channels in copper) and asked for TIN coating, he said that these were "Sub Micro Grain Carbide", and that TIN coating wouldn't be necessary: it should be strong enough. He can add the coating, for $2.00 extra per bit (he can also add TIAlN for an extra $3). Since you're in Malta, I'd be willing to help you out, if you want to order directly, through an intermediary, or you can wait until I place my order, to add yours to mine. [edit] Here's a direct link. Note the flute depth, at 1/4" (6.35mm)!!! __________________ WBTA (Water Block Testing Alliance) Nordic Hardware WC 101

04-06-2003, 07:53 AM	#98
bigben2k Responsible for 2% of all the posts here. Join Date: May 2002 Location: Texas, U.S.A. Posts: 8,302	I don't know exactly. I'm waiting for Fixittt to let me know if he's willing and able to cut Radius with them. One thing I didn't mention: I don't believe that these are center cutting endmills: is this a problem for you? __________________ WBTA (Water Block Testing Alliance) Nordic Hardware WC 101

04-06-2003, 08:07 AM	#100
bigben2k Responsible for 2% of all the posts here. Join Date: May 2002 Location: Texas, U.S.A. Posts: 8,302	A center cutting endmill can make a plunging cut, i.e. you can use it as a drill bit, to drill a hole. If the bit is NOT center cutting, then it can only cut from the side, i.e. as you're cutting the channels. That means that you'd have to make a starting hole, using a regular drill bit. __________________ WBTA (Water Block Testing Alliance) Nordic Hardware WC 101

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