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General Liquid/Water Cooling Discussion For discussion about Full Cooling System kits, or general cooling topics. Keep specific cooling items like pumps, radiators, etc... in their specific forums. |
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02-19-2003, 05:06 PM | #101 |
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- Every great HD crash day is the day before back-up day. - My Past System - "Better to reign in Hell than serve in Heaven." - Milton, Paradise Lost. - FMZ Last edited by hara; 02-22-2003 at 05:39 AM. |
02-19-2003, 05:35 PM | #102 | ||||
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02-19-2003, 07:09 PM | #103 |
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i havent read the whole thread(i read the first 2 pages) but here is my opinion.
A) where I live, theres a good chance you would be heating the water 70% of the time by using an external radiator. My pc will not function without phase change cooling. It is simply too hot. B) DO NOT LET THAT PUMP RUN DRY. It will burn up very quickly. C) I dont think a well pump is meant for this. Its simply not what it was meant for. A well pump was meant to run without massive backpressure(caused by radiators, and especially waterblocks). D) Refer to A. Ever thought about the fact that this wouldnt work in most parts of the world year round? E) How much is this going to cost? F) PVC is really cheap here. I can get 8 inch diameter at 8 ft for $15 here. G) You cannot use anything but tap water in a bong. Remeber, it will be evaporating, and if it is indoors, water wetter/uv dye/antifreeze fumes wouldnt be good. The government is likely to come knocking on your door if you are found to be dumping large amounts of fumes like this outside. H) Running tap water in a wcing system is BAD idea. Corrosion, algae growth, and other stuff you dont want. You will need to build a heat exchanger(basically a coil of pipe submerge in thermally conductive material, and the pipe connected to the water passing through the bong, and another coil of pipe in the same thermally conductive material with the coolant for the pcs in it). |
02-19-2003, 09:17 PM | #104 | |
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02-19-2003, 09:21 PM | #105 | |
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02-19-2003, 09:58 PM | #106 |
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When I lived on Property with a well the pump was in the well 300 feet down in the ground.
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02-20-2003, 07:13 AM | #107 | |
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Anyways, how much time does it take for this water to turn orange?
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02-20-2003, 07:34 AM | #108 |
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Ok the written part of the project is due march 3 and the actual project a couple of weeks after.
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02-20-2003, 09:47 AM | #109 | |
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I will look at the drawing a little more later. I got to get to work. |
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02-20-2003, 10:06 AM | #110 |
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Irranga
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02-20-2003, 10:40 AM | #111 |
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How about stainless steel sheets?
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02-20-2003, 10:48 AM | #112 |
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Wait a second. If we would build a stainless steel box instead of a steel box and drill two holes in it to put the heat elements (not weld them, I currently have another idea, to fix them with the stainless steel box using threads, I will explain it later because now I have to go and do my homework). Would stainless steel rust? may people say that stainless steel does not rust, but just to convince myself.
Or otherwise, if we could get a galvinized steel box, do you think that the galvinisation will go away quickly and the think would rust anyway? Thank You |
02-20-2003, 11:03 AM | #113 |
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this is the box i was refering to, hope you manage to understand.
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02-20-2003, 11:06 AM | #114 | |
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Same for irrigation systems on the farms up there. The build a little building over a spot on the river and drop a pipe down to the water, or they rig up a movable pump on wheels so it can be pulled up when the water gets high or dropped back down when the water gets low. Pipe always goes to the water. Would be kinda dump to drop a pump down 300ft in to the well and then the well fill up over the pump ah? Not saying this isn't done, but it isn't an option where I grew up. Well water levels rise and drop to much up there. I guess it may depend on the situation? Non the less it is irrelevant here. Either way the pump needs some good head pressure to either suck the water up the pipe OR push the water up the pipe. Ahhh back to work... |
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02-20-2003, 11:09 AM | #115 | |
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02-20-2003, 11:19 AM | #116 |
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Yeah, that's what be meant, a small cube with the heating element inside and water running through.
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02-20-2003, 12:18 PM | #117 |
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Let us fix the pump problem that arose in this thread some posts before this. The main difference between a well pump and the pump found in a custom water cooling pc is that you pump is of type circulation pump, while the pump that is used in the wells is called a pressure pump. Mainly the difference can be seen from the pump rating and from the impeller configuration.
Believe me that a pressure pump is what is needed here, we can't handle all the flow with just a circulation pump, remember that in reality, instead of the heating elements, there should sit another 9 pc's so forget about you circulation pump. The pump that we are going to use "sprays" water with a pressure of 4.0 bars. That what makes the 50m head, maybe more than we necessarily need but we need one of these kinds of pumps. Correct me if I'm wrong, I hope that I am not |
02-20-2003, 03:39 PM | #118 |
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How about this, use copper pipe, a tee at both ends capped. One end the cap would be threaded to accept a 2kW water heater element ( about $8 ). All you would have to do is insulate it. Water heater element is meant to be submerged in water, takes 120vac input, and if you can find a light dimmer that can handle 2kW...
Would that work for you? |
02-20-2003, 03:40 PM | #119 |
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Sorry...
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02-20-2003, 03:54 PM | #120 | |
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02-20-2003, 04:48 PM | #121 |
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jadee116, we are trying to find 2 heating elements of about 400W each instead of a one element of 2kw. I also said to my friend that 2kw in one place are a danger, however, it is more likely to find a dimmer switch that can handle 400W approx 1.8A since here in malta we run at 230V (not 120V like USA).
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02-20-2003, 05:15 PM | #122 |
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stainless steel rusts when heated
there are 2 types of pumps A) the kind that sits on top of a piece of pipe descending into the ground around 200 ft(or more, ours was 200 ft) B) the kind you drop down into the well with wires attached to it for power(allows for a smaller pump house, about a 2 and 1/2 foot cube) also: dont put water on the elements. why? unless you plan to direct die cool, you will not be able to submerge the heatsource in water. |
02-20-2003, 06:06 PM | #123 |
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Think this way, people use 2 or more 172 or 226 W pelts and cool them with just a big heater core. 2 172 W pelts can put 500 W of heat into the water.
You're going to have a much larger pump and more cooling capacity. Should be fine as long as you keep the flow up. edit: Two 400 or 500 W elements, one from each end would work just fine. I was just trying to show how common items could be used. |
02-20-2003, 07:10 PM | #124 |
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A few years ago I lived in a places that had an electric hot water heater. The the heating elements just screw into the side of the hot water heater and then you plug the 120 volt line into the element. I believe the element is directly exposed to the water inside the hot water heater. I do not know what the wattage of the elements are, but you may want to investigate them (plumbing supply stores).
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02-20-2003, 08:13 PM | #125 | |
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Thanks, Brian W
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