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General Liquid/Water Cooling Discussion For discussion about Full Cooling System kits, or general cooling topics. Keep specific cooling items like pumps, radiators, etc... in their specific forums. |
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07-20-2004, 11:12 AM | #101 | |
Cooling Neophyte
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07-20-2004, 01:04 PM | #102 | ||
Cooling Savant
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and Yes so does the rad Quote:
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07-20-2004, 02:19 PM | #103 | |
Cooling Savant
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It's like labelling the positive and negative terminals in a circuit. When you bring in a third metal, your knowledgeable statements about the relationship are true enough. Yes, magnesium trumps aluminum as the anode when all three metals are together. To say this invalidates what I've said is like poking an earthed wire into a battery-powered circuit. Looks like all I've said about differences in electrical potential is "without knowledge". Magnesium is used purposefully as an anode against copper/aluminum pairing. Why? Because when copper and aluminum alone are paired, the aluminum anode is sacrificed. So magnesium being way off on the galvanic scale takes the place of aluminum as the sacrificial anode. Many water supply systems, where copper/brass (and plastic) are the only materials used, employ an aluminum rod as an anode. Its role is purely sacrificial. Without it there would be no anode, and the copper would corrode more rapidly (at the normal rate). Aluminum also trumps steel for the anode of copper, in case glazing on tank walls cracks. When we're looking at a purely copper system, and we want a sacrificial anode just for the copper, an aluminum plug will serve. In our systems even anodised aluminum will do the trick. |
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07-20-2004, 02:30 PM | #104 | |
Cooling Savant
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07-23-2004, 11:29 PM | #105 | |
Cooling Savant
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I should have been more clear....corrosion will result on unanodized alumnium. okay, so copper is protected.... what protects your pump/wb from patriculate alumnium matter? |
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07-24-2004, 04:47 AM | #106 | |
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07-24-2004, 06:07 AM | #107 |
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Perhaps;
The point for me is, why the hell should you have to suffer possible problems over 25c of nickel, or perhaps $1 of anodization? Forgive me for being blunt, but people will pay money for bling; its the simple magpie theory - its shiny, they want it. Nothing will stop them. Don't make them pay by having a substandard design. Slater - difference is, you're probably using anti-freeze, right? my question earlier, shot down by billA and others, about using anti-freeze is right, in your case, but not when this item is subject to vapourised moisture (as you pointed out, yourself, lol). Why the HELL should you have to risk your more than probably expensive pump for a 10$ t stopper? makes no sense at all to me. A water heater tank has a heater in it... will this make it more electrically conductive, which would encourage corrosion? thus requiring an anode? Last edited by Etacovda; 07-24-2004 at 06:21 AM. |
07-24-2004, 11:23 AM | #108 | |
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are they in contact with water and copper?
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07-24-2004, 11:56 AM | #109 | |
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07-24-2004, 03:48 PM | #110 | |||
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However, a basic rule in galvanically corroding pairs is that the cathode will corrode more slowly than by itself. So why not apply that. Add aluminum to an otherwise copper system, the copper is protected. Quote:
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07-24-2004, 06:33 PM | #111 | |||
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If not, why not? |
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07-24-2004, 11:18 PM | #112 | |||
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Google: galvanic corrosion And here's a brief explanation I like to believe is correct. Quote:
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*** What are we trying to accomplish here? If your objective in watercooling is to keep the aluminum cap looking new, then sure coat it or whatever. Good enough. If you think minimising tarnish in a copper waterblock more important, then I suggest sacrificial aluminum, scrubbed off from time to time. |
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07-25-2004, 01:10 AM | #113 |
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The thing is, we are not dealing with systems in which the copper or brass will corrode. There is not point introducing a metal that will corrode and put stuff into the liquid. There is no poin gunking up blocks, pumps and radiators to have a fancy looking T line cap.
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07-25-2004, 03:33 AM | #114 |
Cooling Savant
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I agree pippin88. Honestly I'm not really concerned about some scarcely perceptible oxide on my copper components. It can't be effecting performance much.
Case in point, that Swiftech block all rainbowed with oxide from brazing. A splash of pickle would have cleaned it up, but apparently the oxide is immaterial, or doesn't effect performance enough to justify a cleaning. So if that's true then surely there's no point trying to slow lesser tarnishing with a sacrificial anode. |
07-25-2004, 04:44 PM | #115 | |
Cooling Neophyte
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unless someone is stupid, and deeply scratches one of the caps, well that then is beyond my control. |
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07-25-2004, 05:00 PM | #116 |
Cooling Savant
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bill, yes I understand what your saying, sure it can corode and get nasty I have put a peice of copper and aluminum in a jar for a year and there was no chunks but it did get gross, that was when they were submerged together.
Yes I totally agree, Brass would solve the problem 100% and not cost much more like I have said. So why am I ignorant now? explain bill Jon |
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