"Radius" by BigBen2k

[bigben2k]

Ok, that was a joke... In case none ya'll see it:

[Fixittt]

Hey whats so funny about that? I already got one planned.

Remember my nuke block? Well, its gonna be something like that

[bigben2k]

Kewl! Do you need some flow optimization assistance? That design needs to have the flow path tuned for equal distribution.

[fresno12]

Bigben2k

The ones I bought are for a p4

http://shop3.outpost.com/product/3337752


Outpost #: 3337752
CM230+A715HB all copper. CPU fan, P4 2.4GHz or higher,

if they have them in stock take a good look at one.


fresno12

[Can O' Beans]

The snowflake block (joke) actually wouldn't be that bad, from the looks of it. There could be better, but it seems like an ok design, and would look pretty damned snazzy with a plexy top on it

[Dix Dogfight]

I finally remembered what it was that this block reminded me of. The History Channel did a story on radar development. While the Brits came up with a way to make it work, they could not manufacture an intricate part (looking much like Ben's block) in mass quantities. A US engineer came up with the idea of stamping thin sections and bonding them together to build the required height.

That would be the Magnetron oscillator, and they sorta look like the attached picture. However the newer magnetrons that we have in our microwave ovens looke like a hybrid between the RADIUS and the magnetron in the picture.

cheers

[MadDogMe]

BigBen!, how are you planning on doing the outlet?, like a two in one pipe?(like phase change, inlet inside outlet). it'd be difficult but doable. I'd alter the size of the holes around the circle of my design to balance out the flow, to allow for the offcentre outlet. but I'd like to try to incorporate the 'two in one' idea into my design as well(no need to alter hole size for balancing flow ).

Or were you planning on multi outlets?...

*edit*

There would be a 1 7/8 inch copper tube soldered to the top, for the 1 7/8 ID vinyl tube. The center inlet is fed from a 1/2 inch tube that's inside the big tube.

Read it properly this time , I still can't visualise the 'cube res' part, are you gonna carry the two pipes all the way to the res/pump without seperating them?. you could make a seperator that fits to the block yes?, is that the 1 & 7/8 Cu tube thing?.

PS. I think I got the Res thing now, you don't have to submerse the pump either do you!!, just use the res to 'separate' the two tubes , Kudos!!...

It's very simular to what I had in mind, except you took it further with the two in one pipe . the second pic of the 'slots' in a circle, they're the outlets from the main block chamber yes?,are you gonna use Cu to go on top of that?, or Plexi?(you could use plexi tube to attatch the 1&7/8 tube to, on the top plate. and 1/2 tube attatched to the 'slot' plate) to keep the weight down, I'd use plexi for the plate with slots in as well, make for a cool visual experience as well ...

[bigben2k]

MadDog: glad you were able to figure it out!

I got tired of the usual inlet/outlet scheme. I needed something that would allow for an unencumbered outlet (read: less restrictive). I'm surprised no one used it before.

The cube can be just about anything. A plexi cube with two 1/2 barbs on it should do. Think about a cup, where the twin tube is attached to the top opening, and the 2 barbs are stuck at the bottom of the cup.

I've got some preliminary drawings from Utabintarbo.

I also got in touch with Fixittt, who tells me that a 1/8 inch endmill is about as small as he can go, so I'm running new numbers.

[Cathar]

1mm end-mills can and do exist. They don't really come any smaller than that though unless you start getting into the really expensive machinery.

[MadDogMe]

Have you done away with the slots?, I'm using eight 'holes'(non~symetrical) in my design, venting into a chamber rather than a large tube(pipe ). did you work out the outer tube size so you'll have the optimum area inside?(outside of the 1/2 inlet tube) so it equals the 1/2 tube inner?.
You'll want the res as close to the block as possible as well yes?, to minamalise time spent hot next to cold?. though I agree it's a small temp change only there for a very short time...

With the res, you're going to empty the block outlet into the res' but carry the block inlet tube straight through it to the pumps outlet?. that's the picture I've got. it should revolutionise multi outlet blocks!.

[bigben2k]

Originally posted by Cathar
1mm end-mills can and do exist. They don't really come any smaller than that though unless you start getting into the really expensive machinery.

Is that what was used for your block? Fixittt says 1/8 (3.2 mm), because 1/16 (1.6 mm) is too small for his CNC: Special high-speed CNC would be required.

MadDog: I haven't done away with them, this is Utabintarbo's interpretation. I haven't checked to see if this plexi configuration can withstand any stress (i.e. the big 2 inch hose clamp), but it looks good!

The ratio of the area between the 1/2 tube, and the 1 7/8 tube is pretty small. Yes I did check it, and it's not a problem. I don't care how fast the water exits, I just want a 1/2 inlet that's as unobstructed as possible. As for temperature differential, given the flow rate, the deltaT between inlet and outlet will be pretty small, so again, not a worry.

Yes' it's a new outlet scheme. I'm hoping it will catch on. That would be the least of my contribution to the watercooling world!

It's certainly an improvement over BladeRunner's video card cooler, with 3 tubes in, and 3 tubes out!

[Arcturius]

I realize this won't give precisely the same output that you're looking for, but what if you simply use a bandsaw to cut across the diameter of the block a bunch of times?

You could then to touch-up work with a dremel or something.

[utabintarbo]

Originally posted by Arcturius
I realize this won't give precisely the same output that you're looking for, but what if you simply use a bandsaw to cut across the diameter of the block a bunch of times?

You could then to touch-up work with a dremel or something.

I was thinking along these same lines at a point. The only major issue would be a baseplate seperate from the casing. This shouldn't be a big hurdle, as no new ground is broken there (see Innovatek, and just about all German w/b designs lately). Might be kinda pretty!

Let me see what I can do!

Bob

[bigben2k]

Originally posted by Arcturius
I realize this won't give precisely the same output that you're looking for, but what if you simply use a bandsaw to cut across the diameter of the block a bunch of times?

You could then to touch-up work with a dremel or something.

That's what inspired me when I posted the Pro/Snowflake block (although it couldn't be done that way, it is far simpler).

It couldn't really be done that way with Radius, because the cuts would chop up the area over the core. I also thought about diamond shapes spread in a circular pattern, but again, because the pattern is circular, it wouldn't work.

Sticking with a straight pattern of diamond shapes, amounts to nothing else but a pin block (or even a la Swiftech), which is not what I'm shooting for.

[morphling1]

bb2k, I thought of this idea long time ago, when I first think od radial design block, but it's not that simple to implement, somewhere on that line you will have to separate those to lines and for that you will need special piece like a block where that hose and a hose within come and then separate, plus the solution on the block isn't too simple either. Good idea but hard to implement, especialy to look like an end product not some gheto mod.

[Fixittt]

Yes 1 mm endmills do exist, but for any type of fast machining, they just simply cannot be used. Unless you are proto typing in wax of something soft. Copper would snap those things quickly. I have tried carving in copper with 1/16th end mills, and the cuts have to be soo light. It would take forever to do. I have had good sucess and tool life with 1/8 th endmills. They are small, yet beefy enought to do some good depths in copper. That is why I suggested that size to Ben. Now if you had the time, and are using CNC you might get away with 1/16 with light cuts. But I wouldnt recomend it, cause the cost could start to stack up.

[bigben2k]

Morphling: I figured that you had already explored this idea, from seeing the work that you've presented in the past.

Fixittt: so what do I do? Let me run the math on the quantity of copper over the core; I might yet go with 1/8 (3.2mm) endmill.

Alternatively, I could finish the critical area (over the core) by hand, since it seems to be the most trouble.

dunno:shrug:

[Fixittt]

Ok, here is another solution. Rought out most of the block with the 1/8 endmill. As much as you can. And maybe, just maybe, you can step down an endmill size, say finish it with a 1/16th If you use high RMPS slow feedrates, and shallow depths, then maybe you can have it go into the tight spots and work them out.

catch waht I am saying? Also that V shape would look awsome IMO.

[bigben2k]

I believe that you mean this:
(the 1/16 might have to be shallower)

[bigben2k]

The problem is that it really throws off the aspect ratio, of copper to channel, which I'm trying to maintain between 1.5 and 0.75 . The fins could be fatter (overall wider), but I'd have to calculate the fin array effectiveness, in that configuration.

Maybe...

[utabintarbo]

What if they were tapered from top to bottom. The larger cutter will take most of the mat'l, and the smaller can finish it up.

Bob

[Fixittt]

BINGO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[Cathar]

Originally posted by Fixittt
Yes 1 mm endmills do exist, but for any type of fast machining, they just simply cannot be used. Unless you are proto typing in wax of something soft. Copper would snap those things quickly. I have tried carving in copper with 1/16th end mills, and the cuts have to be soo light. It would take forever to do. I have had good sucess and tool life with 1/8 th endmills. They are small, yet beefy enought to do some good depths in copper. That is why I suggested that size to Ben. Now if you had the time, and are using CNC you might get away with 1/16 with light cuts. But I wouldnt recomend it, cause the cost could start to stack up.

Hmmm, when all you have is a hammer, everything looks like a nail eh?

Am getting my batch of waterblocks made up with a CNC mill with a 1mm mill bit. Works just fine and not too slow at all.

Requires a very high cutting speed and the coolant injected at a high velocity at the cutter (or so I'm told).

Not that I have any real experience with CNC milling, but the guys I'm using are perhaps the best in the business in my state (Victoria, Australia) and they didn't seem to think it would be any major problem for them when I quizzed them on the difficulty of machining copper with 1mm bits.

[morphling1]

Yes no problem milling with 1mm bit if you have highspeed cnc mill (different price class then regular cnc mills). At 1mm, to have suggested cutting velocity on cutting edge of the bit, you need to have more then 10000 rpms and with those rpms good torque/power so rpms doesn't just stall.
So if you try something like that on lower rpm, and have feed rate too big that would mean, bit can't cut, but rather push the material, which it can't , so it breaks. So to compensate you need to go very slowly ->milling one block for hours->too expensive

[MadDogMe]

morphling1 bb2k, I thought of this idea long time ago, when I first think od radial design block, but it's not that simple to implement, somewhere on that line you will have to separate those to lines and for that you will need special piece like a block where that hose and a hose within come and then separate, plus the solution on the block isn't too simple either. Good idea but hard to implement, especialy to look like an end product not some gheto mod.

You could do it by having a reservoir with a 1&7/8 barb one side and a 1/2 bulkhead fitting the other(plus a normal 1/2 barb for the block outlet/res to vent from), the 1/2(block in) tube would carry through the 1&7/8 barb to the bulkhead fitting then on to the pump outlet, the 1&7/8 tube would empty into the reservoir. Ta~Da! ...

Was this what you had in mind BB2K?, or were you going to make a more exotic reservoir?. I'd be interested in other ideas you had, even scrapped ones.(how many people have scrapped a 2Tube aproach?, I did, passed over it in a few seconds as unworkable )
I did'nt realise you were going for plexi from the pic. (it takes me a while to realise whats what sometimes without pics and BIG LABELS :shrug I thought it was so you could see detail underneath ...

PS. do you think there's a way you could implement multi in/outlets like BRs with this aproach then?...