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Water Block Design / Construction Building your own block? Need info on designing one? Heres where to do it

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Unread 03-28-2003, 02:09 PM   #1
hara
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Default "$hitblock" by Hara

After success and experience when designing this block with balinju, I'm contemplating cutting this block out of copper using common tools

Name: Shitblock
Fin length: 24mm
fin width 1.5mm
fins are pointed
Base Thickness: 2mm
Fin height (including pointed bit): 5mm
This is a render
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Unread 03-28-2003, 02:12 PM   #2
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The originality to other cathar clones is that this block is designed specifically for the tbred 'B' core. See the core in the centre.
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Unread 03-28-2003, 02:14 PM   #3
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The last 2 channels don't have the same height as the others. The last channel isn't pointed on both sides.
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Unread 03-28-2003, 02:16 PM   #4
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Problem 1: making a 10mm thick copper bar 7mm thick. Any suggestions?

This design lends itself to cathar's WW.

I just need confirmation that the tbred 'B' core is in this orientation:

Thanks for your support!
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Unread 03-28-2003, 02:29 PM   #5
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That little drawing is probably the most useful piece of info that WC enthousiasts can have! Thanks!
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Unread 03-28-2003, 02:31 PM   #6
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Maybe this will help you more.

Thanks for the feedback.
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Unread 03-28-2003, 02:41 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally posted by hara
Problem 1: making a 10mm thick copper bar 7mm thick. Any suggestions?

This design lends itself to cathar's WW.

I just need confirmation that the tbred 'B' core is in this orientation:

Thanks for your support!
You can just mill the 10mm thick copper down to 7mm thick if you already have a mill with which to cut your block.

The orientation of the T'Bred B shown in the socket hole picture is correct.

The measurements in the Socket A picture by Aitor are slightly incorrect - they look to be an approximation of the actual measurements. Not bad, but out by up to 0.3mm in places which may be significant for some.

How is the water entering the block? Side to side? Hard to make any suggestions without first knowing that.
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Unread 03-28-2003, 02:46 PM   #8
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I thought about a 1.5mm slit. I chose 1.5mm instead of 2mm because there are 25.5mm of fins which are 24mm long. This block will not be cut using a mill. If I tell you, you won't believe me.
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Unread 03-28-2003, 02:57 PM   #9
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Cathar, do you think that 24mm long channels are enough? Keeping in mind they are 1.5mm thick and the cpu core orientation.
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Unread 03-28-2003, 03:05 PM   #10
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if i am understanding well how the input of water is going to be, i think you gonna have quite some death spots. correct me if i am wrong
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Unread 03-28-2003, 03:09 PM   #11
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I don't think that this design would have more deadspots. In fact I thought that there would be less. Don't count on my reasoning though.
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Unread 03-28-2003, 03:15 PM   #12
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24mm long channels will be fine. You could probably get away with less, say down to about 20mm with the CPU in that orientation.
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Unread 03-28-2003, 03:15 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally posted by hara
I don't think that this design would have more deadspots. In fact I thought that there would be less. Don't count on my reasoning though.
less than what?? can't understand sorry :shrug:
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Unread 03-28-2003, 03:17 PM   #14
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Quote:
24mm long channels will be fine. You could probably get away with less, say down to about 20mm with the CPU in that orientation.
Thanks!

Quote:
less than what?? can't understand sorry
Less than if the fins weren't pointed but flat.
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Unread 03-28-2003, 03:51 PM   #15
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In your opinion, do you think that the pointed fins would help ppl?
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Unread 03-28-2003, 05:55 PM   #16
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LMMFAO ! .....$hitblock..now thats an original ANYWHERE!!!
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Unread 03-28-2003, 06:37 PM   #17
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The name does not do it justice, or maybe it does. I just clicked to see some crap don't mind me.
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Unread 03-28-2003, 09:54 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally posted by hara
In your opinion, do you think that the pointed fins would help ppl?
It should have no effect whatsoever on cooling, and it will help direct the flow, so it's good.
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Unread 03-29-2003, 03:22 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally posted by bigben2k
It should have no effect whatsoever on cooling, and it will help direct the flow, so it's good.
It would certainly not hamper it, but it may help because of better flow and impingement if a nozzle is being used.
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Unread 03-29-2003, 08:52 AM   #20
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brings new meaning the the saying " even shit, can cool good, when applied properly"
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Unread 03-31-2003, 07:09 AM   #21
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The difficult task is to make the 10mm thick copper 7mm thick. I have a small drillpress. Could I attach a shitty xy table and 5mm 4 flute endmill and perform the following task? Is it possible. Would it damage the drill press severely?

Thanks for your input
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Unread 03-31-2003, 07:56 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally posted by hara
The difficult task is to make the 10mm thick copper 7mm thick. I have a small drillpress. Could I attach a shitty xy table and 5mm 4 flute endmill and perform the following task? Is it possible. Would it damage the drill press severely?

Thanks for your input
I've done that before with a 3/4 HP drill press, you're in for a world of pain. but it probably won't cause much damage to the drill press, mainly bearing wear.

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Unread 03-31-2003, 09:15 AM   #23
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What did you use? xy table? endmills?
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Unread 03-31-2003, 10:59 AM   #24
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Quote:
BTW, Cathar recently revealed (on OC?) that WW's bp thickness is less than 1 mm
Guess I'll be using a 1.5mm baseplate then :shrug:
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Unread 03-31-2003, 11:09 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally posted by hara
The last 2 channels don't have the same height as the others. The last channel isn't pointed on both sides.
Actually, you might want to go even thicker than 1.5 mm, unless you have a good pump, or are planning to jet some of the water at the inlet.

I think that your "step" on the outer fins is in the wrong direction: you ought to leave it the same, or make it thinner: there's barely enough heat there to make much of a difference.
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