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Water Block Design / Construction Building your own block? Need info on designing one? Heres where to do it

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Unread 04-06-2003, 03:43 PM   #51
nicozeg
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Quote:
I get a feeling that nobody's interested
At least on sunday most people don't look too much the site.

I already recomended silicone, most epoxies degrades with water.
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Unread 04-06-2003, 04:49 PM   #52
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Quote:
Originally posted by hara
I get a feeling that nobody's interested
Sunday, sunday... Want a song?


You can opt for soldering, since an o-ring is out of the question. If you want something less permanent, I guess you want to skip over the JB Weld too, so that leaves you with silicone.
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Unread 04-07-2003, 09:31 AM   #53
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THis is the top. I used a copper pipe to solder the central barb to. It transforms the circular input to a slitted output. (excuse my english)
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Unread 04-07-2003, 10:17 AM   #54
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Quote:
Originally posted by hara
THis is the top. I used a copper pipe to solder the central barb to. It transforms the circular input to a slitted output. (excuse my english)
Here's a stupid question: why didn't you just use a copper reducer?
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Unread 04-07-2003, 12:31 PM   #55
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Quote:
Originally posted by bigben2k
Here's a stupid question: why didn't you just use a copper reducer?
What do you mean?

Slitted output?
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Unread 04-07-2003, 12:48 PM   #56
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Here
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Unread 04-07-2003, 01:39 PM   #57
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Sorry, doesn't fit
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Unread 04-10-2003, 05:42 PM   #58
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Damn! IT leaks with a high pressure.
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Unread 04-11-2003, 06:57 AM   #59
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Somebody asked me for the dwg. Here it is:
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Unread 04-16-2003, 09:14 AM   #60
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An idea poped my head. Are there saw blades which can make a cut < 1.6mm and able to cut copper? This would make a DIY user competent enough to produce a block which is as performing as a WW and no drillpress needed.

What do you think?
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Unread 04-16-2003, 09:27 AM   #61
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You wouldn't be referring to Morphling1's work, would you? (he went for less than 1mm, with round saw blades).

The problem is that you have to have a steadily mounted, and level workbench. Not impossible.
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Unread 04-16-2003, 09:35 AM   #62
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Actually, I was refering to hacksaw blades.
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Unread 04-16-2003, 09:53 AM   #63
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Then you'd be referring to Volenti's work
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Unread 04-16-2003, 10:15 AM   #64
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I used this (among other tools) to make my micropin block, without the other cross cuts it essentially would have been a cathar clone, channels ~1.1mm wide.
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Unread 04-16-2003, 10:47 AM   #65
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What is that type of saw called? Actually I wanted something smaller and simpler No need of a fansy vise for shitblock
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Unread 05-15-2003, 10:13 AM   #66
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Ok, so I sealed the waterblock with a two part epoxy "araldite". Will it cause problems since i've heard that epoxies degrade with water but, will it still seal the blocK?
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Unread 05-15-2003, 10:16 AM   #67
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Only time will tell
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Unread 05-15-2003, 10:48 AM   #68
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Quote:
Originally posted by bigben2k
Only time will tell
but i think he would not be happy if after some time, his block will leak on the motherboard
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Unread 05-15-2003, 10:48 AM   #69
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That's the problem. It ain't leaking now but it's a lesson I can't afford to take.
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Unread 05-15-2003, 05:00 PM   #70
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Quote:
Originally posted by hara
What is that type of saw called? Actually I wanted something smaller and simpler No need of a fansy vise for shitblock
they are called mitre saws. at least they are in the uk.
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Unread 05-16-2003, 03:37 AM   #71
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Check out their website (Araldite) to see if it's waterproof...
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Unread 05-16-2003, 04:20 AM   #72
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I searched and found the product but in a similar package. It says it's water resistance. I'll have to trust it then
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Unread 05-16-2003, 04:55 AM   #73
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Nicozeg might know for sure, being the resident Resin specialist! ...
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Unread 05-20-2003, 10:56 PM   #74
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Ooops, being out of the forums lately; Thanks for the specialist title.

My first block had parts bonded together with quick epoxy, and it leaked at about 6 months of use. Each brand is different and I have no experience with araldite and water, but beware that being "water resistant" is not the same as "safe for continuous inmersion"

There is an easy test you can make: take two scrap pieces of cured epoxy, and leave one under water in a closed container. Degradation is slow, but you can have a hint in about a week; if there's some color difference between the parts means bad news. If after a month both look the same in color and hardness, you're safe
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Unread 05-21-2003, 08:49 AM   #75
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Did that test in a slightly different manner. On squirrel, the barbs where made leak proof using araldite. The araldite in contact with the water became orange and like plasticine while the part not in contact with water was still hard. What do you think?

What should I use instead? Silicone won't suite me since the area of contact is very small.
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