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Unread 09-16-2002, 09:27 PM   #26
SonixOS
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Pipe heaters work at -38F. My suction line temp doesnt go below -20C which should be around 0F. Not cold enough. If I get liquid back in the compressor, is the temperature going to be higher than normal or lower than normal?

I think the cap tube is pretty thin but maybe not long enough? I am planning on taking the system to a high school around here that has HVAC classes. Its a technical high school i guess. I will do whatever u guys recommend there. I have no HVAC tools whatsoever.


From what I understand R22 should get the water temp to around -40C right? Someone here on the forums used the same system I am using and got -38C. Does that sound like a possible temperature to get?
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Unread 09-16-2002, 09:49 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally posted by SonixOS
Pipe heaters work at -38F. My suction line temp doesnt go below -20C which should be around 0F. Not cold enough. If I get liquid back in the compressor, is the temperature going to be higher than normal or lower than normal?

I think the cap tube is pretty thin but maybe not long enough? I am planning on taking the system to a high school around here that has HVAC classes. Its a technical high school i guess. I will do whatever u guys recommend there. I have no HVAC tools whatsoever.


From what I understand R22 should get the water temp to around -40C right? Someone here on the forums used the same system I am using and got -38C. Does that sound like a possible temperature to get?
Yeah it will probably get -40c.
What do you mean pipe heaters work at -38f?They work to keep waterpipes in houses from freezing in the winter,and last time I checked where I live only get to about 20-30f

Ok with the capillary,I thought dehumidifers might have small capillary.It is just overcharged,if you let a little of that charge out,you wont get liquid slugging and will get most likely get a lower temp.
How much of your compressor is frosted when running anyways?
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Unread 09-16-2002, 09:50 PM   #28
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post us how much u paid for ur stuff so far bowman.
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Unread 09-16-2002, 10:12 PM   #29
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THe one i have/had before i destroyed it or attempted to hack it has a thermal sensor so it turns on when the temp is below -38F.
The compressor doesnt get frosted but all of the suction line is full of FROST.
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Unread 09-16-2002, 10:43 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally posted by SonixOS
THe one i have/had before i destroyed it or attempted to hack it has a thermal sensor so it turns on when the temp is below -38F.
The compressor doesnt get frosted but all of the suction line is full of FROST.
Oh I see,yours was strange haha

Ok if your compressor isnt frosting up then your not getting as bad of liquid slugging as you think.Your compressor is most likely boiling it all off from the heat before it compresses it.
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Unread 09-17-2002, 06:39 PM   #31
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well got compressor.condensor,fans,3/8 id tubing.capillary tubing and a few copper connectors.take a look.........
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Unread 09-17-2002, 06:57 PM   #32
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well am waiting on a few things left.new inline drier and a bag of charge port solder on fitting so i can charge and adjust the system.i hope by this weekend i can get it mounted into the computer case lower slide out tray.first i have to make the tray i guess,

hey one thing i am looking for if anyone knows of where i can get a reasonably priced LED digital temp readout for the fron of my pc.i am looking into soldering myself one together but i dont have alot of the time i would like to.now i have about 6 or 7 LCD readouts so i am not looking for one of those.LED is what i want.
i have been looking in the forums for a used controler from a vapochil unit or a Maxxxpert MX-EVA3 unit that i can buy for parts.anybody it would help my project if anyknows let me know.
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Unread 09-18-2002, 03:44 PM   #33
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how much did u spend on this already?
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Unread 09-18-2002, 03:51 PM   #34
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MORE THAN I WOULD LIKE TO HAVE.I WILL GIVE A BREAK DOWN AT THE END BUT I TELL YOU.IF YOU HAVE TO BUILD ONE FROM THE GROUND UP LIKE ME AND BUY ONLY THE BEST LIKE I AM DOING.I BET I CAN BUY A NEW VAPO WITH THE MONEY I WILL HAVE SPENT BEFORE I GET FINISHED.BUT I WILL BE THE COOLEST GUY IN TOWN.BUT A BROKE COOL GUY.LOL
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Unread 09-18-2002, 04:07 PM   #35
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Quote:
BEFORE I GET FINISHED.BUT I WILL BE THE COOLEST GUY IN TOWN
pun intended?

I hate it when faggots say that. hehe. EVERYONE makes a pun somehow, somewhere.
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Unread 09-18-2002, 05:07 PM   #36
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WELL I GUESS YOU MIGHT BE RIGHT, I AM GETTING TO OLD TO BE COOL ANYWAY.MY KIDS SAY I DONT KNOW WHAT KOOL IS,THEY ARE PROBABLY RIGHT.BUT I BET -60 IS STILL COLD TODAY.AND THAT IS WHAT I WANT TO HIT.SO I MIGHT NOT BE KOOL BUT I BET I KNOW WHAT COLD IS......
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Unread 09-18-2002, 05:38 PM   #37
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nonono. I didnt mean it that way. I was just saying that other people usually say "pun intended" when they use the word cool. Pun for cool as in hip and cool as in cold.

hehe, sorry for the misunderstanding. come over the pro/chat and enlighten us a little. We were appraising ur work there the other day.
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Unread 09-18-2002, 07:28 PM   #38
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Quote:
come over the pro/chat and enlighten us a little. We were appraising ur work there the other day.
well if i knew how i might .but i am not sure if i want to, you guys might not be talking nice about me.lol ha ha ha
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Unread 09-18-2002, 08:33 PM   #39
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ok well i thought i might show everyone what a ac project like this is going to take as far as tools go.now remember you can do this with out the fancy tools like me but i have them so i am going to use them...
in the pic you well see from back to front.
30lbs container of r22
refrideration oil
set of ac gauges(good quality set)
raytek st30 temp gun(lazer guided)
a couple of indoor outdoor lcd temp units(will go down to -58f
my new tubing bender(robinair ac tubing bender)
tubing cutter
silver solder plus solder(bowman 21572)
lead free soilid wire solder70/30 (napa#777-1865)
solder paste
and my trusty calipers
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Unread 09-19-2002, 02:02 PM   #40
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You might have already answered this, but how much did you spend on your gauges?
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Unread 09-19-2002, 02:43 PM   #41
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LED thermometers:

http://www.qkits.com/serv/qkits/vell...ages/K6003.asp

(only goes to -50)

Regarding vapochill controller; you talking about the delay before start that lets the temp drop? I am fiddling around with a circuit to do exactly that right now.
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Unread 09-19-2002, 02:53 PM   #42
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Dang!

90$ CAD?

I was gonna tackle the delay starter too! What do you have so far? (PM me).
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Unread 09-19-2002, 02:55 PM   #43
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easy to do on a timer; more complicated based upon temps. You can use a 555 or just make a comparator circuit.
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Unread 09-19-2002, 03:13 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally posted by bigben2k
Dang!

90$ CAD?

I was gonna tackle the delay starter too! What do you have so far? (PM me).
thats like 2 bux bigben
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Unread 09-19-2002, 03:14 PM   #45
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Quote:
Originally posted by Brians256
You might have already answered this, but how much did you spend on your gauges?

i believe i paid $180.00 for the set when i got them.

and i am looking at the LED temp gauge ,but i am trying to build one from scatch cheaper if i can.i can find the LED board pretty cheap online now i just am not sure what it will take to make the circuit work properly.
http://www.radioshack.com/product.as...Fid=910%2D4055
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Unread 09-19-2002, 03:33 PM   #46
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#rotor has a full circuit for such on his website. Can't find the URL to it for some reason now
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Unread 09-19-2002, 03:52 PM   #47
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Bowman:

Try this one

It also has a link to the backup circuit.

It's still have to be adapted with a thermal probe, but it's almost there...
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Unread 09-19-2002, 09:11 PM   #48
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Here is sort of thing you may look for instead of the vapochill controller:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...tem=1767762283

Link with a normally closed relay across reset button; when the temp gets where you like it then the relay will trip and the PC will boot.

Keep your eyes peeled and you might find a cheaper one.

On other hand you might be able to get a controller from asetek via a us distributor. Whichever is cheaper...
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Unread 09-20-2002, 11:48 PM   #49
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i really want to say thanks for helping me find some links on a temp unit.i am looking at the one on ebay real close.i am emailing the guy to find out how low it goes and it i need a thermistor or not.
i am at a point where i need to catch back up with my funds.am at $400.00 so far in just a week.so i am going to slow down om my speeding a little.but really all i have left is the LED readout and aluminium angle and flat plate.i would have gotten the aluminium by now but the guy who is selling it to me has been on vacation this week.and he is going to bend and weld it up for me.my brother by the way.he makes custom aluminium signs so he can bend and router out a perfect pc case.I showed him a pic of a LIAN LI case and he said no problem.so he is going to try to rough it in and i will finish the case with the chiler in the bottom
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Unread 09-21-2002, 12:41 AM   #50
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In the description he mentions one PID with a secondary relay. That is the one you would want. Connect a normally closed relay to that one, with the outputs of the relay going to the motherboard's reset header. The system would then keep the reset button pressed down (in effect) until the system reaches the desired temp. Then the relay switches, the reset header is no longer shorted, and the system boots
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