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Unread 08-30-2003, 07:38 PM   #51
TerraMex
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> resistors they both look very similar

I think you mean capacitors .

I checked one of my suppliers and they dont sell 100 uF Ceramic capacitors.

I also checked my batch (as long as they were out) 104 for 100 nF.

http://www.marvac.com/funpages/ceram...itor_codes.htm

Checks out. The letters are in fact Temperature Coefficient Codes. Never payed any attention to it before . And i've built a fair amout of circuits.

I'm pretty sure something's mixed up here . An 100 uF capacitor 99% of times are eletrolitic ones (#3). They can also be electrolitic and non polarized, but those are mainly used in audio systems.

Can you post the schematic of the circuit? It might help.
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Unread 08-30-2003, 07:46 PM   #52
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This link should help with the caps.

Capacitor values
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Unread 08-30-2003, 07:56 PM   #53
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Sorry I misread the parts list....

One calls for a 100 nF ceramic, and the other calls for a 100 pF ceramic. Si I imagine that the 104M is the 100 nF then. What do you think?

They are both brown/red disks.

Thanks,

BrianW
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Flow: Res, Pump, CPU watervlock, Y into both rads, both rads into res independently.

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Unread 08-30-2003, 08:06 PM   #54
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good link Murray.

Also checks. "104" for 100.000pF and "101" for 100 pF.

Like i said, it would be strange to have a 100 uF ceramic . They do exist, but not for hobbykits.
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Unread 08-30-2003, 08:09 PM   #55
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do u mean 104 for 100000pF? Also what does the p and the n mean, are they like thousands and millions and such?

Thanks,

BrianW
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Flow: Res, Pump, CPU watervlock, Y into both rads, both rads into res independently.

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Unread 08-30-2003, 08:20 PM   #56
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More questions:

Variable resistor(pot), and the voltage regulator. When more resistence is applied through the pot, does the regulator raise the output voltage? This is the only way I can see that adding another pot to set minimum voltage would work. Also to add the second pot, can i just solder some wires to the posts of the pot, and connect the second pot to that? That is what I was thinking.

Mains AC yields three wires: Power, neutral and earth. Is this right? The schematic shows two wires going into the transformer. One is labeled L (load? is this power?), and N (Neutral?), with a fuse between mains, and transformer on the N wire. Since I assume earth is unused, should I connect earth to the metal project case, that the transformer wil be in?

Thanks again guys.

BrianW
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Water Cooled Inwin Q500 (Dual Rads: Rad1 = DTEK Pro Core | Rad2 = Blick Ice Estreme, Hydor L30, Dangerden Maze2, Bay Res Typhoon Reservoir, 1/2 " DD Tygon Thick Wall Hose).

Flow: Res, Pump, CPU watervlock, Y into both rads, both rads into res independently.

Athlon XP 1800+ (@ 1731 - 150mhz fsb.), on a Asus A7N266-c, and a Radeon 9000 *waiting for RMA'd Saphire 9800 ultra from Newegg)

Last edited by BrianW; 08-30-2003 at 08:26 PM.
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Unread 08-30-2003, 08:22 PM   #57
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n for nano (10*-9) ,
p for pico (10*-12) ...

the scale goes on...

So the "104" is 10 + 4 zeros = 100 000 picoFarads, also know as 100 nanoFarads.

And the "101" is 10 + 1 zero = 100 picoFarads or 0,1 nanoFarads.
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Unread 08-30-2003, 08:44 PM   #58
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>Variable resistor(pot) (...)

Yes, if i recall correctly. Increase the resistance to increase output. At least that's what i got in my LM317T experiments.

> posts of the pot (...)

It'm not sure what you mean. If you are referring to connecting a second pot, in series ? If so, yes. You can add the second pot in series to maintain a minimum (variable) voltage, by connecting it though wires with the first pot. Not in parallel.

> Mains AC yields three wires (...)

You dont need the ground, but you can connect it if you want to . And if you use a metal casing, attached to the computer case, then it will be automaticaly grounded. The PSU grounds the case.
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Unread 08-30-2003, 08:56 PM   #59
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So that is in series. OK. Then I will go that route.

I must have a wrong view in the differences between series and paralel, as fas as electricity goes. I figured since both pots connected to the same leads on the board, then they would be in paralel. But you state this as series. Please enlighten me!

The transformer will actually be external to the case. It will have the output voltage (24vac) carried through some set of wires up to the case, where the adj. power supply will reside. In my case(no pun intended), I think I will ground the external case that the transformer is in, to the mains earth. How does it sound?

BTW i figured out how to connect the small transistor. The pdf I found pretty much tells me what I need to know. The emitter of the small transistor outputs to the base of the larger one. The smaller transistor has a hole to mount a heatsink, yet the kit does not call for one. Do you think I should pink one up @ Radio Shack and hook it up?

Thanks,

BrianW
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Flow: Res, Pump, CPU watervlock, Y into both rads, both rads into res independently.

Athlon XP 1800+ (@ 1731 - 150mhz fsb.), on a Asus A7N266-c, and a Radeon 9000 *waiting for RMA'd Saphire 9800 ultra from Newegg)

Last edited by BrianW; 08-30-2003 at 09:03 PM.
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Unread 08-30-2003, 09:00 PM   #60
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Quote:
Originally posted by BrianW
More questions:

Mains AC yields three wires: Power, neutral and earth. Is this right?
Yes.
Quote:
The schematic shows two wires going into the transformer. One is labeled L (load? is this power?), and N (Neutral?), with a fuse between mains, and transformer on the N wire. Since I assume earth is unused, should I connect earth to the metal project case, that the transformer wil be in?
Yes, you've got it right. Ground can go to the case. L for the power or hot side. N for the neutral, neutral is also where the fuse will go.
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Unread 08-30-2003, 09:02 PM   #61
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A heatsink couldn't hurt if this is going to run 24/7.
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Unread 08-30-2003, 09:13 PM   #62
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> I figured since both pots connected to the same leads on the
> board, then they would be in paralel. But you state this as
> series

No, i stated the text wasnt very clear (not for me anyway), and that you shouldn't connect it in parallel. Parallel will drop the resistance considerably and it won't do what you want.

If you have a 1K pot and a 100 resistance (example) , the total parallel will be 0 -> 90 Ohm as you turn the pot.

In series, the same 1K pot and 100 resistance (example) , ill got from 100 (pot at zero will not count) ->1,1K with the turn of the pot.

> I think I will ground the external case that the transformer is in,
> to the mains earth.

You can do that. But it's not required. It's really up to you. The rest sound good.

> Do you think I should pink one up @ Radio Shack and hook it up?

Not really. Those things are rated for 150 ยบ C of max temp operation. But it wont get the main current though it like the big one, so it wont heat up very much. That's why the big one has the heatsink, and the small one doesnt... and doesnt need.

But if you want to feel safe, sure, why not. Doesnt hurt .
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Unread 08-30-2003, 09:26 PM   #63
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So how do I physically connect them in series? The pot has 3 posts that connect to the pcb. I am sorry I am so noobish here!

It is 10k-ohm btw. So I need to buy one rated the same right?

BrianW
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Flow: Res, Pump, CPU watervlock, Y into both rads, both rads into res independently.

Athlon XP 1800+ (@ 1731 - 150mhz fsb.), on a Asus A7N266-c, and a Radeon 9000 *waiting for RMA'd Saphire 9800 ultra from Newegg)
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Unread 08-30-2003, 11:13 PM   #64
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You can go two ways:

1)

The first thing you need to do, is see if you can know at which value of the pot the circuit gives the minimum voltage (6v).

Let's assume a value (example) 1K. At 1K , the main pot regulates the circuit to 6v. Then add a 2k pot in series with the main 10k pot and set it to 1k. I chose 2k to have some slack.

Now , with the second pot at 1K, the main pot will regulate 1k->11k. Which will give you 6v->24v (assuming if the resistance is higher, it will limit the output ). If not, change the main pot to a 9K pot.

2 ) Use both 10K pots. Set the first to zero, and regulate the second one to give 6v. Then use the first one to give the the rest of the range.

Again, assuming it wont go over 24v. If it starts to go, you will need to change the pots just as in 1) .


1) has a finer scale . 2) less work.

As far as the series goes, i was thinking something like this :



usually the pots in those circuits use the first and middle to make the resistance , because first and last always gives the maximum.

So, this should work. Assuming first and second pins for the resistance and last connect to gnd.

http://www.cpemma.co.uk/reg.html

Assuming they use a similar approach to the regulator just like an LM circuit. Which may not be right :shrug: .
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Last edited by TerraMex; 08-30-2003 at 11:22 PM.
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Unread 08-30-2003, 11:34 PM   #65
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EDIT: Did not read last part of your post....

When you say first and middle, are you talking about the pot adjuster knob facing you, and the first being on the left in that perspective? If so, then that is how this pot is set up. Any way you could draw that same diagram with the 3 pins of each pot facing down, as if you were looking at the pot from the adjuster knob? I am having a hard time seeing it... EDIT -- Actually, after drawing it out w/ a few assumptoins, I am seeing it much clearer now. The ground for both is connected then brought back to pcb. I would still like to see another drawing, to make sure I am getting it right.

EDIT: I did a lil drawing of what I think you are talking about. Please tell me if it is on the mark.



BrianW
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Flow: Res, Pump, CPU watervlock, Y into both rads, both rads into res independently.

Athlon XP 1800+ (@ 1731 - 150mhz fsb.), on a Asus A7N266-c, and a Radeon 9000 *waiting for RMA'd Saphire 9800 ultra from Newegg)

Last edited by BrianW; 08-31-2003 at 12:25 AM.
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Unread 08-31-2003, 08:55 PM   #66
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I think it's good. I'm also assuming a view from the knob.
But if you check the schematic, you'll probably find the ground pin, which makes things more clear.

Btw, you can , instead of soldering the three wires, use a connector strip . Or similar.

I use them alot. I like to be able to fix my wire messes in 5s if things go wrong, if it's not the right order, or the cable isn't the right lenght.
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Unread 09-04-2003, 08:29 PM   #67
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Yet another question:

I got the transformer in today. One side has two wire inputs for the 120vac 60hz input. The other side is the output. It has three wire leads: 12v-0v-12v . How do i wire it to the powersupply, which has 24vac input?

Thanks,

BrianW
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Flow: Res, Pump, CPU watervlock, Y into both rads, both rads into res independently.

Athlon XP 1800+ (@ 1731 - 150mhz fsb.), on a Asus A7N266-c, and a Radeon 9000 *waiting for RMA'd Saphire 9800 ultra from Newegg)
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Unread 09-04-2003, 10:46 PM   #68
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OK I wired up the transformer, and got out the voltmeter. When i short the 12v and 0v I get 12vac, when i short the 12v and the 12v I get 24vac. So I imagine it could be used as a 12v or 24v transformer. I really want to try and hook the two 12v lines to my powersupply, and see if it works. But I should probably wait for confirmation.

EDIT: Impatience grows......I am the worst.

EDIT: Well I hooked up the power suplly to the two 12v outputs of the transformer. Power supply works, and the heatsink seems way overpowered... Another note: with this ps, 0 resistance is full speed, and 10k resistance is 3.3 volts. Do not see how I am going to get the minimum voltage now. Unless I find out what resistance that 7 volts is at, then get a pot that does not exceed that? Hmmn let me check that out....



BrianW
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Water Cooled Inwin Q500 (Dual Rads: Rad1 = DTEK Pro Core | Rad2 = Blick Ice Estreme, Hydor L30, Dangerden Maze2, Bay Res Typhoon Reservoir, 1/2 " DD Tygon Thick Wall Hose).

Flow: Res, Pump, CPU watervlock, Y into both rads, both rads into res independently.

Athlon XP 1800+ (@ 1731 - 150mhz fsb.), on a Asus A7N266-c, and a Radeon 9000 *waiting for RMA'd Saphire 9800 ultra from Newegg)

Last edited by BrianW; 09-05-2003 at 02:03 AM.
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