where to buy a TEC?

gizo · 06-14-2001, 12:46 PM

I want to use peltier to cool my cpu. I want to know where I can get a peltier with 156 - 172 watt that has the 4 pin molex already crimped.

jastrckl · 06-14-2001, 09:46 PM

http://www.tedist.com has peltiers in the power ranges you're looking for. There's a good reason that they don't come with molex connectors already crimped though... most power supplies don't put out enough juice. The 172W peltiers are 24V, so a standard PSU can't power it, you have to use multiple PSU's with wiring tricks. Even for the 156W 15.8V pelts, they draw so much current (16.1A), that it really needs an independant power supply. It sounds like you should do a little more homework though before you do this. You should know that it's risky. If for whatever reason the peltier (or its power supply) dies, it won't conduct heat well and your chip will fry. If the hot side (which will dissipate well over 200W in your scenario) isn't cooled well enough, you well end up with a net _heater_ instead of a "cooler". Note that these things follow thermodynamics laws like conservation of energy, so the heat they remove from the chip ends up somewhere else, plus a little bit from resistance and other losses. Overall, a peltier _increases_ the heat load of the system. It takes fairly careful design and planning to not f*ck it up. If you still wanna go through with it though, I'll help ya out

gizo · 06-15-2001, 09:30 AM

hey, thanx for the advice!!! I think i'm going to continue the peltier adventure so please help since it's my first time. I was planning on buying the enermax 531 W power supply. I am also going to water cool the peltier.

Depending on the time I by my water block and availability, I either choose the maze2, or i will look into overclock-watercool.com's website and see if their new water block is out. but I like the maze2 because they have the single pelt setup all designed.

Right now, i Have a black ice radiator with a res-pump setup.

so do you think the top of the line enermax will be able to handle the 172 W or 156 W pelt? Please consult!!!

thanx,
gizo

resago · 06-15-2001, 11:22 AM

I'm running that powersupply in my system with a 156wat peltier.

with the B-athlon 1ghz (200mhz FSB) it could cool below ambient, however, anything faster and the 156 pelt can't keep up.

right now I'm running a 1ghz AXIA (266 Mhz bus) and the peltier is doing nothing. I might as well not have it.

gizo · 06-15-2001, 01:29 PM

hey resago, so you don't think the that particular psu can hold up with at 172 W peltier?

btw, i'm planning to get a 1.4 G tbird and oc it as much as possible... that's my goal or i wouldn't be here at procooling posting =P

thanx for any help out there!!

hielko · 06-15-2001, 02:38 PM

All 172W Pelts are 24V sofar I know. The Enermax can only deliver 12V. Not enough. It can handle a 172W peltier, but it will work like a 80W.

So a Enermax + pelt isn't a good idea. The 156P is to weak for a fast athlon and it can't run a 172W at a high enough voltage.

Pelts + Thunderbirds != easy...

gizo · 06-15-2001, 03:00 PM

thanx for the help... and with your sincere suggestions, i will go about my cooling with the absensce of a peltier unit and just use a maze 2 water block.

cmenaia · 06-17-2001, 01:38 PM

why don´t you get the maze2-2, and put 2 pelties on it, i don´t recomend 2 80w pelties, and 2 156W maybe to much for you power suply, so y can put 1 80w pelties plus 1 more of 156W, the if 156W runs fine until 1GHz, then the 80W should do the trick for 1GHz + .
i just bought 1 maze2-2 and 2 172W pelties, can´t wait for them to arrive

jastrckl · 06-17-2001, 07:18 PM

If you want a powersupply on the cheap that will handle the draw of a pair of 156W pelts with your maze-II, try looking at auto parts stores for car battery chargers. I found one yesterday for $50 that puts out up to 50A at "12V" (probably actually higher because of the way a car power system works). A pair of 156's should do pretty well on even a 1.4G bird. That supply I found, if wired in series with another, could also easily handle a pair of 172's... maybe a fun project for the future. Good luck.

FlameOut · 06-17-2001, 11:20 PM

Um, if you take the 12v+ rail and the 12v- rail, that should give you 24v right? Correct me if I'm wrong.

hielko · 06-18-2001, 06:35 AM

Your're correct BUT, the 12V rail can only handle 1 amp or something like that!! Not powerful enough for peltiers.

cmenaia · 06-19-2001, 02:55 AM

The 172W/24V at 12V will give you 130W, the 156W/15.8V will give you the same 130W at 12V, dont forget the size of the TEC, you can put two 172W tec in a maze2-2, but the 156W are a lithe bigger and both off them dont fit in a maze2-2, and besides later you can also increse the power becouse you have some reserve. [img]null[/img]

cmenaia · 06-19-2001, 03:05 AM

were is the grapf for the drift 0,8 TEC (172W)

Petrus · 06-28-2001, 08:45 PM

Another relatively cheap powersupply solution to power a 172W 24V pelter is to link two 12V (>7.17A) PSUs in series. This will give you >7.17A @ 24V and that's exactly what you need. Two old 12V 8A AT/ATX PSUs shouldn't cost that much.

Check out the "Linking Multiple PSU's Together - OnDaEdg style" guide here on ProCooling!

hielko · 06-29-2001, 04:44 AM

That won't work. You will need 11A @ 24V. So you will have to link to powerfull PSU's together (Enermax 430W or something like that) or 4 normal AT/ATX PSU's.

And btw: don't expect that 8A + 8A = 16A when linking AT PSU's parallel. They aren't designed for parallel operation and the load won't be ballanced very well.

Petrus · 06-29-2001, 09:28 AM

hielko: Why would one need 11A @ 24V to run a 172W peltier? I'm _not_ a electronics wiz or anything but I thougt you would need a minimum of 172W/24V = 7.1666..A so 8A should do, am I mistaken? Please explain.

Edit: I should read the posts more carefully.

Butcher · 06-30-2001, 12:02 PM

Peltiers aren't 100% efficient, the 172W is amount of heat moved, typical current draw is higher than that, and the 11A is probably from the specs for the peltier.

hielko · 07-01-2001, 04:17 AM

To be exact: It's 11.3A @ 24.6V
But the lower the voltage the lower the needed currect. So 11A @ 24V is approx. correct. It is 10A @ 20V.

[b4k4] · 07-02-2001, 02:13 PM

You have to remember here in the laws of thermoelectrics: A tec is not only moving heat from one side to the other, it's also generating it's own heat in the process. Qmax is actually the amount of heat pulled plus the amount of heat generated at Vmax. Delta T is just the difference in heat between the two sides. Don't think that a higher difference in temperature means that th ecold side gets colder, it really means that the hot side gets hotter. And most of the time, both sides heat up, only the hot side heats up more than the cold side. If you need a PSU for just the pelts, contact ETA-POWER, 1-800-ETA-POWR. They deal in somewhat more customized supplies.

hielko · 07-03-2001, 04:06 AM

Not correct.

Qmax is only the amount of heat it can move, nothing more and nothing less. The amout of heat produced is V * I. Total heatoutput is V * I + Qmax.

And a higher DeltaT means a colder coldside if the hotside is cooled well enough.

06-14-2001, 12:46 PM	#1
gizo Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Jun 2001 Posts: 38	where to buy a TEC? I want to use peltier to cool my cpu. I want to know where I can get a peltier with 156 - 172 watt that has the 4 pin molex already crimped.

06-15-2001, 11:22 AM	#4
resago Cooling Savant Join Date: Mar 2001 Location: state of denial Posts: 488	I'm running that powersupply in my system with a 156wat peltier. with the B-athlon 1ghz (200mhz FSB) it could cool below ambient, however, anything faster and the 156 pelt can't keep up. right now I'm running a 1ghz AXIA (266 Mhz bus) and the peltier is doing nothing. I might as well not have it. __________________ 2.4Ghz Compaq Workstation 2.8Ghz Custom 2700+ Custom still running 2000!!!! Help with Coding www.resago.com

06-17-2001, 01:38 PM	#8
cmenaia Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: Portugal Posts: 9	why don´t you get the maze2-2, and put 2 pelties on it, i don´t recomend 2 80w pelties, and 2 156W maybe to much for you power suply, so y can put 1 80w pelties plus 1 more of 156W, the if 156W runs fine until 1GHz, then the 80W should do the trick for 1GHz + . i just bought 1 maze2-2 and 2 172W pelties, can´t wait for them to arrive __________________ the need for speed never ends..... overcloking until burns

06-19-2001, 02:55 AM	#12
cmenaia Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: Portugal Posts: 9	The 172W/24V at 12V will give you 130W, the 156W/15.8V will give you the same 130W at 12V, dont forget the size of the TEC, you can put two 172W tec in a maze2-2, but the 156W are a lithe bigger and both off them dont fit in a maze2-2, and besides later you can also increse the power becouse you have some reserve. [img]null[/img] __________________ the need for speed never ends..... overcloking until burns

06-19-2001, 03:05 AM	#13
cmenaia Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: Portugal Posts: 9	were is the grapf for the drift 0,8 TEC (172W) __________________ the need for speed never ends..... overcloking until burns

06-14-2001, 09:46 PM	#2
jastrckl Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Jun 2001 Posts: 26	http://www.tedist.com has peltiers in the power ranges you're looking for. There's a good reason that they don't come with molex connectors already crimped though... most power supplies don't put out enough juice. The 172W peltiers are 24V, so a standard PSU can't power it, you have to use multiple PSU's with wiring tricks. Even for the 156W 15.8V pelts, they draw so much current (16.1A), that it really needs an independant power supply. It sounds like you should do a little more homework though before you do this. You should know that it's risky. If for whatever reason the peltier (or its power supply) dies, it won't conduct heat well and your chip will fry. If the hot side (which will dissipate well over 200W in your scenario) isn't cooled well enough, you well end up with a net _heater_ instead of a "cooler". Note that these things follow thermodynamics laws like conservation of energy, so the heat they remove from the chip ends up somewhere else, plus a little bit from resistance and other losses. Overall, a peltier _increases_ the heat load of the system. It takes fairly careful design and planning to not f*ck it up. If you still wanna go through with it though, I'll help ya out

06-15-2001, 09:30 AM	#3
gizo Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Jun 2001 Posts: 38	hey, thanx for the advice!!! I think i'm going to continue the peltier adventure so please help since it's my first time. I was planning on buying the enermax 531 W power supply. I am also going to water cool the peltier. Depending on the time I by my water block and availability, I either choose the maze2, or i will look into overclock-watercool.com's website and see if their new water block is out. but I like the maze2 because they have the single pelt setup all designed. Right now, i Have a black ice radiator with a res-pump setup. so do you think the top of the line enermax will be able to handle the 172 W or 156 W pelt? Please consult!!! thanx, gizo

06-15-2001, 01:29 PM	#5
gizo Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Jun 2001 Posts: 38	hey resago, so you don't think the that particular psu can hold up with at 172 W peltier? btw, i'm planning to get a 1.4 G tbird and oc it as much as possible... that's my goal or i wouldn't be here at procooling posting =P thanx for any help out there!!

06-15-2001, 02:38 PM	#6
hielko Cooling Savant Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: The Netherlands Posts: 108	All 172W Pelts are 24V sofar I know. The Enermax can only deliver 12V. Not enough. It can handle a 172W peltier, but it will work like a 80W. So a Enermax + pelt isn't a good idea. The 156P is to weak for a fast athlon and it can't run a 172W at a high enough voltage. Pelts + Thunderbirds != easy...

06-15-2001, 03:00 PM	#7
gizo Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Jun 2001 Posts: 38	thanx for the help... and with your sincere suggestions, i will go about my cooling with the absensce of a peltier unit and just use a maze 2 water block.

06-17-2001, 07:18 PM	#9
jastrckl Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Jun 2001 Posts: 26	If you want a powersupply on the cheap that will handle the draw of a pair of 156W pelts with your maze-II, try looking at auto parts stores for car battery chargers. I found one yesterday for $50 that puts out up to 50A at "12V" (probably actually higher because of the way a car power system works). A pair of 156's should do pretty well on even a 1.4G bird. That supply I found, if wired in series with another, could also easily handle a pair of 172's... maybe a fun project for the future. Good luck.

06-17-2001, 11:20 PM	#10
FlameOut Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Mar 2001 Posts: 4	Um, if you take the 12v+ rail and the 12v- rail, that should give you 24v right? Correct me if I'm wrong.

06-18-2001, 06:35 AM	#11
hielko Cooling Savant Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: The Netherlands Posts: 108	Your're correct BUT, the 12V rail can only handle 1 amp or something like that!! Not powerful enough for peltiers.

06-28-2001, 08:45 PM	#14
Petrus Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: Umeå, Sweden Posts: 18	Another relatively cheap powersupply solution to power a 172W 24V pelter is to link two 12V (>7.17A) PSUs in series. This will give you >7.17A @ 24V and that's exactly what you need. Two old 12V 8A AT/ATX PSUs shouldn't cost that much. Check out the "Linking Multiple PSU's Together - OnDaEdg style" guide here on ProCooling! __________________ "Hard to se The Dark Side is"

06-29-2001, 04:44 AM	#15
hielko Cooling Savant Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: The Netherlands Posts: 108	That won't work. You will need 11A @ 24V. So you will have to link to powerfull PSU's together (Enermax 430W or something like that) or 4 normal AT/ATX PSU's. And btw: don't expect that 8A + 8A = 16A when linking AT PSU's parallel. They aren't designed for parallel operation and the load won't be ballanced very well.

06-29-2001, 09:28 AM	#16
Petrus Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: Umeå, Sweden Posts: 18	hielko: Why would one need 11A @ 24V to run a 172W peltier? I'm _not_ a electronics wiz or anything but I thougt you would need a minimum of 172W/24V = 7.1666..A so 8A should do, am I mistaken? Please explain. Edit: I should read the posts more carefully. __________________ "Hard to se The Dark Side is"

06-30-2001, 12:02 PM	#17
Butcher Thermophile Join Date: May 2001 Location: UK Posts: 1,064	Peltiers aren't 100% efficient, the 172W is amount of heat moved, typical current draw is higher than that, and the 11A is probably from the specs for the peltier. __________________ Once upon a time, in a land far far away...

07-01-2001, 04:17 AM	#18
hielko Cooling Savant Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: The Netherlands Posts: 108	To be exact: It's 11.3A @ 24.6V But the lower the voltage the lower the needed currect. So 11A @ 24V is approx. correct. It is 10A @ 20V.

07-02-2001, 02:13 PM	#19
[b4k4] Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Jun 2001 Posts: 18	You have to remember here in the laws of thermoelectrics: A tec is not only moving heat from one side to the other, it's also generating it's own heat in the process. Qmax is actually the amount of heat pulled plus the amount of heat generated at Vmax. Delta T is just the difference in heat between the two sides. Don't think that a higher difference in temperature means that th ecold side gets colder, it really means that the hot side gets hotter. And most of the time, both sides heat up, only the hot side heats up more than the cold side. If you need a PSU for just the pelts, contact ETA-POWER, 1-800-ETA-POWR. They deal in somewhat more customized supplies.

07-03-2001, 04:06 AM	#20
hielko Cooling Savant Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: The Netherlands Posts: 108	Not correct. Qmax is only the amount of heat it can move, nothing more and nothing less. The amout of heat produced is V * I. Total heatoutput is V * I + Qmax. And a higher DeltaT means a colder coldside if the hotside is cooled well enough.

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