Very high temps, what gives???

airspirit · 07-16-2002, 05:11 PM

Okay, I reinstalled my water setup ( http://forums.procooling.com/vbb/sho...&threadid=3705 ) with a "still res"/air trap ( http://forums.procooling.com/vbb/sho...&threadid=3750 ) and everything went to hell. I was originally ranging (pump>block>rad) between 41-48C, and now after I put on my res I'm ranging 53-59C (pump>rad>res>block). This is royally freaking me out here, and I was wondering if any of you have ideas. What really gets to me, is the ambient in the first runs was around 90-100F, and now it is only at 85F and hitting higher temps. Internal case temp is at 39C, btw. I have 2x80mm out + PSU fan, and 2x120mm in (thru rad) + 1x80mm. Any recommendations? I'd even consider pelting, but I'm not going to stick another heat source on my water unit if it can't handle it ... though I can find no reason for that to be the case.

Oh, and the first temps were on a XP1900@141x12.5 and the second temps are at 133x12.

bigben2k · 07-16-2002, 05:36 PM

The obvious question is: how do you measure your core temps? Is it through the CPU socket probe, or are you reading the core directly?

Next, as usual, is to blame you for not mounting the block properly

No, really, if your tubes put a lot of weight on the block, it might be pulled off the core by just enough to throw your temps off.

V12|V12 · 07-16-2002, 05:44 PM

WEEEE! Thank god someone else is having mysteriously high temps and it's just not me! (Sorry) My deal is about the same... High ambients 85-90.5 and 40C idles... then magically with the A/C on PERMAFROST mode: 21.5C ambient and STILL 40C idles... pure impossible! I'm thinking you, like myself, might have a screwy internal sensor...

Of which I don't know where it's located on my mobo A7N266-C (POS!)...

Sorry, this didn't help much, but the senor reading could be misleading...

airspirit · 07-16-2002, 06:02 PM

See, I've taken all of that into account. My block meets the die perfectly (black edge/lexan clamp, keeps it NICE and LEVEL). The sensor is one of those POS things under the chip. I figure it's reading a little high, but that high for water? I tried taking the block off, cleaning off the thermal goo, and giving it another go with a fresh coat, and NADA. Same stuff. I'm thinking of maybe swapping my pump around, but I can't see how the direction my pump goes would cause this kind of difference in my system.

V12|V12 · 07-16-2002, 06:17 PM

You know to fulling get an idea of what's going on with yer rig... I'm calling for an MS-Paint blue print! It's 2nd best thing to an overpriced Digi-cam!

Could you list what:

1)Pump
2)Block (or MS paint it)
3)Rad/Core
4)Tubing Diameter
5)Coolant mixer used ie: ratio of H20

reventative etc.
6)Res type (MS-Paint plz)

I might be able to further help, but I need a visual

airspirit · 07-16-2002, 06:21 PM

Hit the link up top in my original post for pics on another post. The change was adding the snorkel (see second link) out the back of the case and reversing the direction of my pump. It should be self explanatory from there.

bigben2k · 07-16-2002, 06:26 PM

Which one feels hottest: the block or the rad?

decodeddiesel · 07-16-2002, 07:52 PM

I'm thinking it's either something killing your flow rate in your loop, your high ambient (I'm at 41C ambient, 45C case temp, and 52C load....no AC sucks), or probe error. More than likley it's a combination of all three. Here's an idea...if you have a relativly high CFM fan like a delta 60 or something lying around try aiming it directly at your CPU socket/block. If you see some crazy temp drop it's probe error. Also you said you reseated your block, so if you are confident you did a good job make sure you give it some time for the thermal goop to "set" this normally takes 24-48 hours and you'll see a small temp drop. Finally try taking some 90 degree bends out, and using as little hose as possible, this will give you as much flow as you are going to get. Anyway, good luck hope this helps.

nikhsub1 · 07-16-2002, 08:23 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by airspirit
...I was originally ranging (pump>block>rad) between 41-48C, and now after I put on my res I'm ranging 53-59C (pump>rad>res>block). This is royally freaking me out here, and I was wondering if any of you have ideas...

That flow order seems to me like it would suck. The block is the last thing in the chain getting the least amount of flow. The res is probably KILLING the flow too. I would go pump>rad>block>res if anything but me, I don't use a res, just a "T".

#Rotor · 07-16-2002, 10:56 PM

I'm running this, off of a single Heater core, hooked up to 3 CPU's and a chipset, at once....

Pardon me for not understanding why you guys are getting anything above 40ºC with a single CPU...

my temps are measured like so...............

what is your liquid temps like? if I may ask....

g.l.amour · 07-17-2002, 06:42 AM

whats up every time someone states that the flow in your circuit is different in different parts of cooling loop. if i remember correctly from my physics classes, water is a non compressable agent. therefor there is no way the flow could be different in different parts of the loop, or there'd have to be a 50%H2O 50% O2 mixture (oxygen can be compressed). don't think so. i've tried different setups , for me it didn't mater where i'd put pump, radiator and wb, all same temps.

bigben2k · 07-17-2002, 08:36 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by nikhsub1
That flow order seems to me like it would suck. The block is the last thing in the chain getting the least amount of flow. The res is probably KILLING the flow too. I would go pump>rad>block>res if anything but me, I don't use a res, just a "T".

Again, the flow rate is the same at any point in the entire rig. The velocity and pressure is different, but it depends on each component. Each part will react differently to the flow rate, where some will turn the flow rate into a high speed, high pressure point, and vice versa. The total of those restrictions will dictate what the pump output will be.

There is no kind of loss of flow/speed/pressure because of the order of the components. The only difference is the coolant temp. As a general rule, I've always said that the rad exit should feed the waterblock. Anything else is irrelevant.

But I sure would like to be able to explain airspirit's results...

decodeddiesel · 07-17-2002, 09:37 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by bigben2k

Again, the flow rate is the same at any point in the entire rig. The velocity and pressure is different....

There is no kind of loss of flow/speed/pressure because of the order of the components...

As a general rule, I've always said that the rad exit should feed the waterblock. Anything else is irrelevant.

Took the words right out of my mouth, nice bigben.

Cova · 07-17-2002, 11:01 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by bigben2k
Again, the flow rate is the same at any point in the entire rig. The velocity and pressure is different, but it depends on each component.

Pressure is different, velocity is dependant on the cross-section area of the location the coolant is flowing through. So the velocity in the tubing everywhere in your system is the same, it may slow down/speed up as it passes through narrower/wider blocks/rads/rez's.

If the system is closed-loop (again, IMHO closed-loop means sealed well enough to hold pressure) you will have positive pressure right after the pump outlet, negative pressure just before the pump inlet, and neutral/no pressure somewhere in the middle (likely between your two most restrictive components, the block and rad)

airspirit · 07-17-2002, 02:07 PM

Okay, sorry about the delay. I chopped another hole in my case (this is becoming a nightly occurance), so now one 120mm fan sucks air into the rad, and the other blows it out the other side, with a duct around it ... it's like a wind-tunnel running laterally thruogh my machine. After that was finished, I'm now running 47-53C at 12.5x133 (was at 12x133 ... even now I'm too hot to bump the bus). The wierd part is that the air coming from the tunnel isn't nearly as hot as it should be. That aside, the block is warm, and I'm not lacking flow at all. Even with 1 block, the res, the rad (BIXr2), 2xelbows and 7ft of 1/2" (interior) hose, I am getting massive water flow going through here. That NurseryPro I'm using pumps like a mutha. Oddly, when I blow a fan over the block/cpu, the temps go UP 1-2C. I don't have a way (yet) of measuring the water temps ... I'm still looking for a cheeeeep thermometer (two-three dollaz). I'm really considering pelting, now. Logic tells me that if the air from the rad isn't too hot, maybe it can withstand a much higher temperature load (from a pelt).

Question for MKOSEM (if you see this): you described a psu from MPJA that carried 15V/20A. If I wired a 226W (15.6V,24A) pelt to it with a decent resistor in series, could I drop the power output on the pelt to around, say, 75% of the pelt power and run this without the PSU blowing up? I'd like to use a higher power unit than a 156W, but I don't want to spend a ton on a PSU. Any help would be appreciated.

Cova · 07-18-2002, 09:57 AM

If temps are going up when you blow a fan at the block, then you've got some problems with your temp sensor. It's probably safe to assume your water-system is running perfectly fine and just leave it the way it is. The in-probe sensor is picking up hot air from something else nearby (likely a voltage regulator or the northbridge)

If you're considering pelt cooling, I'd recommend investing in some good temp monitoring hardware first though.

airspirit · 07-19-2002, 04:57 PM

Okay, I reversed my pump (pump>res>block>rad) and I'm running between 46-50. Running the pump to the block rather than the rad seems to help in my system, contrary to logic. I can see this happening in a system with a smaller pump, but my pump makes some real HEAT. I'd expect it to be cooler after running it through the rad, but it doesn't seem to work that way for me. If I keep modding this box, it'll really look like a freak show. The only sides that haven't been cut are the top and bottom ....

bigben2k · 07-19-2002, 05:11 PM

Just so that we're clear, when you say pump to block, you mean pump OUTLET to block, right?

Cova · 07-22-2002, 11:15 AM

Quote:

Running the pump to the block rather than the rad seems to help in my system, contrary to logic.

Actually, it seems that your system is trying to prove the points that some people made in other discussions about pressure - running the block right after the pump will have a higher pressure in the block.

And no matter the size of your pump, I seriously doubt it makes a noticeable difference in the temp of the water. I don't have water-temp sensors just before/after my pump, but I do have them just before/after my block (and I think we all agree that an average CPU under load puts out more heat than a pump). I usually average between .5 and 1 degree difference in water-temp as the water passes through the block. I think when I get home I'm going to take one of my extra temp sensors and attach it to the tube just before the pump (and my pump is just before the CPU), then I can start collecting temps of water just before pump, between pump/block, and just after block - with both heat-sources combined I doubt I'll see a difference of more than 1.5C as the water moves through (and I don't think my flow rate is even very good).

airspirit · 07-22-2002, 11:54 AM

Well, I found part of my problem. I'm down 1C after replacing the PSU. It was overheating right next to my rad (and probably causing my rad fans to run at lower speeds as well). I went from a 350W generic (never buy ANYTHING from ElitePC of Texas ... out of an entire system I bought for cheap on UBid less than a year ago, only the hard drive and one 80mm fan is still working, and the HDD has issues) to an Antec TruePower 480W. Much quieter.

Funny story how that happened, actually. I woke up Sunday morning to my wife crying and saying she broke my machine (visions of XP keychains danced in my head) and I had to wake up. I ran into the "server farm" to this godawful reek and a bit of smoke, and she said this big flash of light came from the back of the computer and it couldn't turn on again. After removing the PSU I opened it and every cap in it was blown. Needless to say, I was a bit nervous when I plugged in the new PSU, cos I didn't know if it took anything else with it ... I got lucky.

And I don't think I'm ever going to be able to push the FSB much, now. I just threw another 256MB DDR into my machine next to my 256MB PNY PC2100 ... it's KByte PC2100, so if I can hit 140, I'll be jumping for joy. I was just sick of the memory lag (when PCAlert3 shows only 15MB ram free, you know you're screwed, damn WinXP).

When I say pump to (anything), I mean outlet of pump to (anything).

So, I'm now 46-49C (51C under extreme load). I'm supposed to get to triple digit ambents (F) this week, so I guess I'll see how well it holds up.

TurnTable · 07-22-2002, 05:35 PM

I am fairly new to water cooling, and I put a compunurse touching my CPU die, everythings been working great. Except for the onboard temp sensor (MSI k7t266pro2-RU, looks like the same MBO you have from your avatar). my compunurse says its 33.6 right now and my onboard sensor says 41. In a diff forum someone suggested holding a fan over the water block, this lowered the mbo's temp down to 1 degree over the compunurse.
dont know if this really applies....but it might.

airspirit · 07-23-2002, 11:50 AM

Thanks. I'll try that again (I didn't hold one DIRECTLY over the cpu before). Mine is the KD333 Ultra ARU board (I think that KD333 is right ... it's MSI's top cheese, at any rate, though the architecture is very similar to yours)

airspirit · 07-23-2002, 09:10 PM

I post this because I don't want anyone else to do something as f*cking st00pid as I did. My push/pull 120 fans were connected to my f*cking 5V line. I'm running 47 under load now at 1.85V.

Sometimes you can wrack your brain for answers only to realize, way too late, that the simplest solution is the best.

My box sounds like a hurricane, and I think I just saw it start hovering ....

Hallis · 07-23-2002, 11:45 PM

hell mine never touches the ground,, 1.6a 120mm delta on 12v :-) where abouts in texas are you?

airspirit · 07-25-2002, 01:12 PM

I'm in Idaho, not Texas. The heat here is bad enough. I'd die down there.

... I'd probably try to watercool myself first ....

07-16-2002, 05:11 PM	#1
airspirit Been /.'d... have you? Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: Moscow, ID Posts: 1,986	Very high temps, what gives??? Okay, I reinstalled my water setup ( http://forums.procooling.com/vbb/sho...&threadid=3705 ) with a "still res"/air trap ( http://forums.procooling.com/vbb/sho...&threadid=3750 ) and everything went to hell. I was originally ranging (pump>block>rad) between 41-48C, and now after I put on my res I'm ranging 53-59C (pump>rad>res>block). This is royally freaking me out here, and I was wondering if any of you have ideas. What really gets to me, is the ambient in the first runs was around 90-100F, and now it is only at 85F and hitting higher temps. Internal case temp is at 39C, btw. I have 2x80mm out + PSU fan, and 2x120mm in (thru rad) + 1x80mm. Any recommendations? I'd even consider pelting, but I'm not going to stick another heat source on my water unit if it can't handle it ... though I can find no reason for that to be the case. Oh, and the first temps were on a XP1900@141x12.5 and the second temps are at 133x12.

07-16-2002, 05:36 PM	#2
bigben2k Responsible for 2% of all the posts here. Join Date: May 2002 Location: Texas, U.S.A. Posts: 8,302	The obvious question is: how do you measure your core temps? Is it through the CPU socket probe, or are you reading the core directly? Next, as usual, is to blame you for not mounting the block properly No, really, if your tubes put a lot of weight on the block, it might be pulled off the core by just enough to throw your temps off. __________________ WBTA (Water Block Testing Alliance) Nordic Hardware WC 101

07-16-2002, 05:44 PM	#3
V12\|V12 Cooling Savant Join Date: May 2002 Location: Ohio-State! <--Money Hussle! SUCKS Posts: 292	WEEEE! Thank god someone else is having mysteriously high temps and it's just not me! (Sorry) My deal is about the same... High ambients 85-90.5 and 40C idles... then magically with the A/C on PERMAFROST mode: 21.5C ambient and STILL 40C idles... pure impossible! I'm thinking you, like myself, might have a screwy internal sensor... Of which I don't know where it's located on my mobo A7N266-C (POS!)... Sorry, this didn't help much, but the senor reading could be misleading... __________________ XP 1600+ AGOIA-Y (GreenLabel, UNLOCKED!@/ NF7-S 2.0/ PC 2700 DDR 10.5*172FSB(1806/ 1991 high), Vcore 1.792...@84.95Watts --86' Chevette Heater Core --1/2" Vinyl tubes --Via1300-Stealth Mod(QUIET!) ---Home made copper-tube block ---PVC small internal res

07-16-2002, 06:17 PM	#5
V12\|V12 Cooling Savant Join Date: May 2002 Location: Ohio-State! <--Money Hussle! SUCKS Posts: 292	You know to fulling get an idea of what's going on with yer rig... I'm calling for an MS-Paint blue print! It's 2nd best thing to an overpriced Digi-cam! Could you list what: 1)Pump 2)Block (or MS paint it) 3)Rad/Core 4)Tubing Diameter 5)Coolant mixer used ie: ratio of H20reventative etc. 6)Res type (MS-Paint plz) I might be able to further help, but I need a visual __________________ XP 1600+ AGOIA-Y (GreenLabel, UNLOCKED!@/ NF7-S 2.0/ PC 2700 DDR 10.5*172FSB(1806/ 1991 high), Vcore 1.792...@84.95Watts --86' Chevette Heater Core --1/2" Vinyl tubes --Via1300-Stealth Mod(QUIET!) ---Home made copper-tube block ---PVC small internal res

07-16-2002, 06:26 PM	#7
bigben2k Responsible for 2% of all the posts here. Join Date: May 2002 Location: Texas, U.S.A. Posts: 8,302	Which one feels hottest: the block or the rad? __________________ WBTA (Water Block Testing Alliance) Nordic Hardware WC 101

07-16-2002, 06:02 PM	#4
airspirit Been /.'d... have you? Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: Moscow, ID Posts: 1,986	See, I've taken all of that into account. My block meets the die perfectly (black edge/lexan clamp, keeps it NICE and LEVEL). The sensor is one of those POS things under the chip. I figure it's reading a little high, but that high for water? I tried taking the block off, cleaning off the thermal goo, and giving it another go with a fresh coat, and NADA. Same stuff. I'm thinking of maybe swapping my pump around, but I can't see how the direction my pump goes would cause this kind of difference in my system.

07-16-2002, 06:21 PM	#6
airspirit Been /.'d... have you? Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: Moscow, ID Posts: 1,986	Hit the link up top in my original post for pics on another post. The change was adding the snorkel (see second link) out the back of the case and reversing the direction of my pump. It should be self explanatory from there.

07-16-2002, 07:52 PM	#8
decodeddiesel Cooling Savant Join Date: Oct 2001 Location: classified Posts: 534	I'm thinking it's either something killing your flow rate in your loop, your high ambient (I'm at 41C ambient, 45C case temp, and 52C load....no AC sucks), or probe error. More than likley it's a combination of all three. Here's an idea...if you have a relativly high CFM fan like a delta 60 or something lying around try aiming it directly at your CPU socket/block. If you see some crazy temp drop it's probe error. Also you said you reseated your block, so if you are confident you did a good job make sure you give it some time for the thermal goop to "set" this normally takes 24-48 hours and you'll see a small temp drop. Finally try taking some 90 degree bends out, and using as little hose as possible, this will give you as much flow as you are going to get. Anyway, good luck hope this helps. __________________ ...i hurt... do me a favor, disconect me... they can re-work me but i'll never be top of the line again ...i'd rather be nothing...

07-16-2002, 10:56 PM	#10
#Rotor Cooling Savant Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Dione, sector 4s1256 Posts: 852	I'm running this, off of a single Heater core, hooked up to 3 CPU's and a chipset, at once.... Pardon me for not understanding why you guys are getting anything above 40ºC with a single CPU... my temps are measured like so............... what is your liquid temps like? if I may ask....

07-17-2002, 06:42 AM	#11
g.l.amour Cooling Savant Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: on da case Posts: 933	whats up every time someone states that the flow in your circuit is different in different parts of cooling loop. if i remember correctly from my physics classes, water is a non compressable agent. therefor there is no way the flow could be different in different parts of the loop, or there'd have to be a 50%H2O 50% O2 mixture (oxygen can be compressed). don't think so. i've tried different setups , for me it didn't mater where i'd put pump, radiator and wb, all same temps.

07-17-2002, 02:07 PM	#15
airspirit Been /.'d... have you? Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: Moscow, ID Posts: 1,986	Okay, sorry about the delay. I chopped another hole in my case (this is becoming a nightly occurance), so now one 120mm fan sucks air into the rad, and the other blows it out the other side, with a duct around it ... it's like a wind-tunnel running laterally thruogh my machine. After that was finished, I'm now running 47-53C at 12.5x133 (was at 12x133 ... even now I'm too hot to bump the bus). The wierd part is that the air coming from the tunnel isn't nearly as hot as it should be. That aside, the block is warm, and I'm not lacking flow at all. Even with 1 block, the res, the rad (BIXr2), 2xelbows and 7ft of 1/2" (interior) hose, I am getting massive water flow going through here. That NurseryPro I'm using pumps like a mutha. Oddly, when I blow a fan over the block/cpu, the temps go UP 1-2C. I don't have a way (yet) of measuring the water temps ... I'm still looking for a cheeeeep thermometer (two-three dollaz). I'm really considering pelting, now. Logic tells me that if the air from the rad isn't too hot, maybe it can withstand a much higher temperature load (from a pelt). Question for MKOSEM (if you see this): you described a psu from MPJA that carried 15V/20A. If I wired a 226W (15.6V,24A) pelt to it with a decent resistor in series, could I drop the power output on the pelt to around, say, 75% of the pelt power and run this without the PSU blowing up? I'd like to use a higher power unit than a 156W, but I don't want to spend a ton on a PSU. Any help would be appreciated.

07-18-2002, 09:57 AM	#16
Cova Cooling Savant Join Date: May 2002 Location: Canada Posts: 247	If temps are going up when you blow a fan at the block, then you've got some problems with your temp sensor. It's probably safe to assume your water-system is running perfectly fine and just leave it the way it is. The in-probe sensor is picking up hot air from something else nearby (likely a voltage regulator or the northbridge) If you're considering pelt cooling, I'd recommend investing in some good temp monitoring hardware first though.

07-19-2002, 04:57 PM	#17
airspirit Been /.'d... have you? Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: Moscow, ID Posts: 1,986	Okay, I reversed my pump (pump>res>block>rad) and I'm running between 46-50. Running the pump to the block rather than the rad seems to help in my system, contrary to logic. I can see this happening in a system with a smaller pump, but my pump makes some real HEAT. I'd expect it to be cooler after running it through the rad, but it doesn't seem to work that way for me. If I keep modding this box, it'll really look like a freak show. The only sides that haven't been cut are the top and bottom ....

07-19-2002, 05:11 PM	#18
bigben2k Responsible for 2% of all the posts here. Join Date: May 2002 Location: Texas, U.S.A. Posts: 8,302	Just so that we're clear, when you say pump to block, you mean pump OUTLET to block, right? __________________ WBTA (Water Block Testing Alliance) Nordic Hardware WC 101

07-22-2002, 11:54 AM	#20
airspirit Been /.'d... have you? Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: Moscow, ID Posts: 1,986	Well, I found part of my problem. I'm down 1C after replacing the PSU. It was overheating right next to my rad (and probably causing my rad fans to run at lower speeds as well). I went from a 350W generic (never buy ANYTHING from ElitePC of Texas ... out of an entire system I bought for cheap on UBid less than a year ago, only the hard drive and one 80mm fan is still working, and the HDD has issues) to an Antec TruePower 480W. Much quieter. Funny story how that happened, actually. I woke up Sunday morning to my wife crying and saying she broke my machine (visions of XP keychains danced in my head) and I had to wake up. I ran into the "server farm" to this godawful reek and a bit of smoke, and she said this big flash of light came from the back of the computer and it couldn't turn on again. After removing the PSU I opened it and every cap in it was blown. Needless to say, I was a bit nervous when I plugged in the new PSU, cos I didn't know if it took anything else with it ... I got lucky. And I don't think I'm ever going to be able to push the FSB much, now. I just threw another 256MB DDR into my machine next to my 256MB PNY PC2100 ... it's KByte PC2100, so if I can hit 140, I'll be jumping for joy. I was just sick of the memory lag (when PCAlert3 shows only 15MB ram free, you know you're screwed, damn WinXP). When I say pump to (anything), I mean outlet of pump to (anything). So, I'm now 46-49C (51C under extreme load). I'm supposed to get to triple digit ambents (F) this week, so I guess I'll see how well it holds up.

07-22-2002, 05:35 PM	#21
TurnTable Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: Tulsa Posts: 1	dont know if this has been posted yet... I am fairly new to water cooling, and I put a compunurse touching my CPU die, everythings been working great. Except for the onboard temp sensor (MSI k7t266pro2-RU, looks like the same MBO you have from your avatar). my compunurse says its 33.6 right now and my onboard sensor says 41. In a diff forum someone suggested holding a fan over the water block, this lowered the mbo's temp down to 1 degree over the compunurse. dont know if this really applies....but it might.

07-23-2002, 11:50 AM	#22
airspirit Been /.'d... have you? Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: Moscow, ID Posts: 1,986	Thanks. I'll try that again (I didn't hold one DIRECTLY over the cpu before). Mine is the KD333 Ultra ARU board (I think that KD333 is right ... it's MSI's top cheese, at any rate, though the architecture is very similar to yours)

07-23-2002, 09:10 PM	#23
airspirit Been /.'d... have you? Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: Moscow, ID Posts: 1,986	I post this because I don't want anyone else to do something as fcking st00pid as I did. My push/pull 120 fans were connected to my fcking 5V line. I'm running 47 under load now at 1.85V. Sometimes you can wrack your brain for answers only to realize, way too late, that the simplest solution is the best. My box sounds like a hurricane, and I think I just saw it start hovering ....

07-23-2002, 11:45 PM	#24
Hallis Cooling Savant Join Date: Oct 2001 Location: Dallas, Tx Posts: 469	hell mine never touches the ground,, 1.6a 120mm delta on 12v :-) where abouts in texas are you?

07-25-2002, 01:12 PM	#25
airspirit Been /.'d... have you? Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: Moscow, ID Posts: 1,986	I'm in Idaho, not Texas. The heat here is bad enough. I'd die down there. ... I'd probably try to watercool myself first ....

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