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Unread 01-19-2003, 11:35 PM   #1
BrianW
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Default New Case Idea, asking for input.

I will be making a new watercooled system in the next couple of weeks or so. My idea is to use a negative pressure box that will house all my watercooling gear. On top of which will sit an ATX Desktop case ( http://www.newegg.com/app/Showimage....116-125-06.JPG ). I will use Quick disconnects and custom wire plugs to allow me to detach the Case from the box. Allowing easy maintenance of both systems seperately.

I have an early rendering of the box. note that the box's are supposed to be these: http://www.heatercore4u.com/2-558.htm .



Components:

Current Computer Hardware indicated in my signature. (Will prolly be upgraded once the completion of the Watercooled Box gets closer)

1 Custom built clear reservoir

4 Rads ( http://www.heatercore4u.com/2-558.htm )

1 CPU Waterblock ( http://jpiperformance.com/water_blocks.htm )

1 GPU Waterblock ( http://www.dangerden.com/mall/chipset.asp )

1 NB Waterblock ( DD Danger Den Z-Chip Block )

1 Watercooled Power supply ( http://www.globalsources.com/tradesh...53/details.htm )

1 or 2 Eheim pumps ( Either 2 1048's or one 1260)

2 or 4 Fans ( Either 4 High speed panaflo 120mm's or 2 Large DC fans)

The green box's in the pic are what will be my rads. There will be four squares cut in the bottom of the box for air to enter the Negative pressure box. The box will be as sealed as i can make it. The fans will be located on the sides of the case. BTW: the pic shows the view from the front.

The watercooling system will flow like this:
With 5/8" id Hose from here till I say it changes. From res to pump, then split to four radiators, then either to pump # 2 or straight to me CPU Waterblock, then split to two paths and reducing each to 1/2" ID hose. The first path will go to the GPU Waterblock, then back to the res. The second path will go to the NB Waterblock, then to the Power Supply Waterblock, then back to the res.

What do you think is the way to go with the pumps? 1 or 2?

What is the best choice for fans? I want to be able to go a very low noise level, but also have the ability to set it to max and watch the temps drop.

What would be best choice for the material for the Watercooling Box?

Whould be a good choice for a bonding agent for whatever material you suggest?

Is there a source for clear screws, bolts, fasteners?
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Flow: Res, Pump, CPU watervlock, Y into both rads, both rads into res independently.

Athlon XP 1800+ (@ 1731 - 150mhz fsb.), on a Asus A7N266-c, and a Radeon 9000 *waiting for RMA'd Saphire 9800 ultra from Newegg)

Last edited by BrianW; 01-20-2003 at 12:07 AM.
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Unread 01-22-2003, 08:47 PM   #2
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Default BUMP

Please give me some insight, oh great ones @ procooling.com......

Updated rendering:



Thanks again,

Brian W
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Water Cooled Inwin Q500 (Dual Rads: Rad1 = DTEK Pro Core | Rad2 = Blick Ice Estreme, Hydor L30, Dangerden Maze2, Bay Res Typhoon Reservoir, 1/2 " DD Tygon Thick Wall Hose).

Flow: Res, Pump, CPU watervlock, Y into both rads, both rads into res independently.

Athlon XP 1800+ (@ 1731 - 150mhz fsb.), on a Asus A7N266-c, and a Radeon 9000 *waiting for RMA'd Saphire 9800 ultra from Newegg)
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Unread 01-22-2003, 09:16 PM   #3
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Errr.... you're not shy about making it big?!?

I like the preliminary concept: got any more details?
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Unread 01-22-2003, 09:20 PM   #4
BrianW
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Hehe the post, the box, or the pics? anyway, the detail is done nightly, and we are not the fastest modelers.

What I really want to know is this: what material would be best, what bonding agent would be best, and what is the best way to construbt the box so it can support the desktop case that will sit on top of the box?

Thanks again,

Brian W
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Water Cooled Inwin Q500 (Dual Rads: Rad1 = DTEK Pro Core | Rad2 = Blick Ice Estreme, Hydor L30, Dangerden Maze2, Bay Res Typhoon Reservoir, 1/2 " DD Tygon Thick Wall Hose).

Flow: Res, Pump, CPU watervlock, Y into both rads, both rads into res independently.

Athlon XP 1800+ (@ 1731 - 150mhz fsb.), on a Asus A7N266-c, and a Radeon 9000 *waiting for RMA'd Saphire 9800 ultra from Newegg)
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Unread 01-25-2003, 07:18 PM   #5
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I am planing a box very similar in concept to this!! I was going to put the pump, rad, res in the box and hace a variable speed fan controler, thermal overload protection, and leak detection.

I have a lazer at work and a very good source for acrylic. I only pay about $15 for a 4'X8' sheet of 1/4" acrylic. Havn't quite got the drawing of the parts down yet though. I have to many projects I am trying to peice together during the small amount of free time I have.

Anyway I would just use standard 1/4" acrylic and use IPS Weld-On acrylic cement #4 or #16. Preferable #16 if you plan on a water tight seal.
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Unread 01-25-2003, 11:06 PM   #6
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Thanks for yiur help. Unfortunately I do not have a lazer, so I will try and find some one that has a good workbench and get carbide ccutting blades. I may end up going with polycarbonate. What do you think of this material? I found some good 90 degree Elbows that i can use for corner support.

Brian W
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Water Cooled Inwin Q500 (Dual Rads: Rad1 = DTEK Pro Core | Rad2 = Blick Ice Estreme, Hydor L30, Dangerden Maze2, Bay Res Typhoon Reservoir, 1/2 " DD Tygon Thick Wall Hose).

Flow: Res, Pump, CPU watervlock, Y into both rads, both rads into res independently.

Athlon XP 1800+ (@ 1731 - 150mhz fsb.), on a Asus A7N266-c, and a Radeon 9000 *waiting for RMA'd Saphire 9800 ultra from Newegg)
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Unread 01-26-2003, 11:43 AM   #7
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I'm working with polycarbonate, and I think it's absolutely fabulous. With Devcon's Plastic Welder (thanks to Morphling1), I get the strongest joints, in an excellent chemical bond.

You'll have to watch out for the scratch resistance, but it is available in a number of different compositions. Check out McMaster.com for more info.

That answers your previous questions, I believe... If you want to add some more reinforcements, you can add polycarb rods, running from top to bottom. Don't ask me for recommendations there: I am not a mechanical engineer!
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Unread 01-26-2003, 12:31 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally posted by BrianW
Thanks for yiur help. Unfortunately I do not have a lazer, so I will try and find some one that has a good workbench and get carbide ccutting blades. I may end up going with polycarbonate. What do you think of this material? I found some good 90 degree Elbows that i can use for corner support.

Brian W
You don't need a lazer at all. It is just a nice bonus. But using a good blade on a table saw will work fine and actually it will make a better glue joint as it is roughed up a little. Problem with lazer cuts is they are to perfect. They leave a perfect see through cut that is smooth as glass. Not perfect for a glue joint so I usually end up sanding it just slightly.

Poly is good like Lexan or perspex but I never used any at work. Plain acrylic is actally very good espcially in 1/4" or above. It is very strong. I made a little 5.25" bay res with 1/8" and I can stand on it without any hint of breaking (190lbs). Scrath resistance is good to but Lexan is better. If you use a poly make sure you reaserch on the best glue as Weld-On #4 and #16 don't like anything but acrylic.
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Unread 01-27-2003, 04:42 PM   #9
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Thanks for all the tips guys. Here is how it looks like now: All sides and bottoms will be 1/4" Poly. I am using 1" 90 degree elbows on all exterior adjacent sides (sides to bottom and sides to eachother). The case will sit on 1" 1/4" poly frames that will be held by these elbows as well. The top piece and the hatch door will be 1/8" Poly.

We have finished the model I think ( for now at least) :

If you wanna check out some more renderings. check it out: http://www.thengc.net/images/waterco...exi-neg-press/ .

Thanks again for all the help,

Brian W
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Water Cooled Inwin Q500 (Dual Rads: Rad1 = DTEK Pro Core | Rad2 = Blick Ice Estreme, Hydor L30, Dangerden Maze2, Bay Res Typhoon Reservoir, 1/2 " DD Tygon Thick Wall Hose).

Flow: Res, Pump, CPU watervlock, Y into both rads, both rads into res independently.

Athlon XP 1800+ (@ 1731 - 150mhz fsb.), on a Asus A7N266-c, and a Radeon 9000 *waiting for RMA'd Saphire 9800 ultra from Newegg)
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Unread 02-11-2003, 04:21 AM   #10
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Default V.2 Model Completed (Almost)

Hello again....

We have redesigned the box from the fround up. We changed the radiators to two of these : http://www.heatercore4u.com/2-617.htm . They offer the convienence of having the barbs facing eachother, that way we can split the flow between the radiators more easily. We lowered the vertical heighth to 6". Like I said earlier this makes the box the same heighth as the case that will sit on top of it. Instead of 4 120mm fans we will be using 6 92mm fans.

Here is a pic of the front of the box:



If you want to see more of the images of V.2, checkout this link: http://www.thengc.net/images/waterco...-neg-press/v2/ .

If you have any questions/concerns/suggestions, please post 'em...

Thanks again,

Brian W
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Water Cooled Inwin Q500 (Dual Rads: Rad1 = DTEK Pro Core | Rad2 = Blick Ice Estreme, Hydor L30, Dangerden Maze2, Bay Res Typhoon Reservoir, 1/2 " DD Tygon Thick Wall Hose).

Flow: Res, Pump, CPU watervlock, Y into both rads, both rads into res independently.

Athlon XP 1800+ (@ 1731 - 150mhz fsb.), on a Asus A7N266-c, and a Radeon 9000 *waiting for RMA'd Saphire 9800 ultra from Newegg)
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Unread 02-11-2003, 12:57 PM   #11
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Check the FS/FT forum. FRAG has a Lytron rad for sale ($60 compared to twice that in heatercores) similar to the one I'm using. It may be an option, though if you are running the four rads in parallel that will give you much better flow than that one Lytron. If you are running them in series like in your diagrams, you very well may want to consider the one large radiator, because four HCs in series will be a massive flow killer. If you stick with the heatercores, you MUST increase the overall volume of your internal piping and run them in parallel. This also allows for a larger flow to your PC for better cooling. If you run them all in series you will have to use some sort of bypass mechanism to prevent your flow from dropping to unusable levels.

Also on this note, consider having two parallel paths for coolant, one going to the CPU, and one going to the GPU/NB. This will prevent the CPU block from becoming a chokepoint, further killing flow. I have a feeling you'll get better temps that way, though it does involve more hosing in your ATX case. Put the "Y" inside of your ATX case, though, to prevent the split from blocking air flow in your cooling chest.

One thing to note with that case you're looking at is that it isn't that great for air flow. You'll probably want to consider windowing it somewhere for extra air flow with a low volume 120mm fan if there are going to be any aircooled parts in your system (like the NB) and you want to keep it quiet. I can live with 45C in my case because my system arrangement is buried in heatsinks ... can you?

It looks, however, like you are going completely watercooled, so that may not be an issue for you. You will still, though, want to consider two 80mm Panaflo "L" fans @7V in windows on the PSU side to flow air across your mosfets and such on the mobo. Just a thought for you.

The box itself is a very sound idea. As long as you can get a tight seal around the cores (the is where the Lytron shines since it comes with mounting hardware), the box serves as a shroud and makes things really nice. Again, I'd recommend Panaflo "L" fans (120mm) for the cooling box. At 7V, they should be virtually inaudible. You'll want to build a rheobus to control your fan speeds. With 6x 120mm, you will get good flow from 5V-12V. It allows you to crank up the power like you were talking about.

Since the case you are looking at comes with a 300W Enlight PSU, you could theoretically mount that in the lower box, hack the 80mm fan out of it and mount one of your 120mm fans on it for another exhaust. This PSU could be used to power the entire fan array in the bottom. Just something to think about.

Another word of caution: that case is VERY tight. It allows up to 3X Optical drives and only 2X HDD/Floppy drives. If you are using more than 2 HDD and don't mind the lack of a floppy, you'll have to pick up a rack for one of your 5" slots. You'll also want to look again at how you'll string the hosing into your case. It looks like you're going to try to punch in from the bottom, but I'd caution against that for ease of maintenance. Try this instead: have barbs extending from the back of the cooling case. From these, extend hose equipped with quick-disconnects toward the ATX case, and have it enter in through the back. You can use 2X PCI slots if you don't need them (this is what I did), or you can chop the case above the PCI slots if you need them all. If they are stacked like that with entry through the bottom of the ATX case, maintenance will be a bitch.

You do know that quick disconnects are an absolute bastard for flow if they are auto-shutoff, right? You may want to consider ball valves and non-shutoff disconnects. You'll lose a small amount of coolant, but since it is outside the case, it can be controlled. There is a better way to get around this, though, which I quickly discovered, and this leads to the last point:

How are you going to trap air? You may want to consider building in an airtrap/res. Otherwise, you will have a very difficult time filling/draining/bleeding your system. An elegant approach would be to build in a clear PVC res/trap in the cooling case that can be filled through a screw-on top and would drain directly into the pump inputs (prevents hose collapse in high resistance systems). Also be ready with an easy method to drain it if necessary.

The reason for this is that it eliminates the need for shutoff disconnects. If you can drain your system "safe" (it won't bleed all over the place) in less than a minute, why worry about shutoffs? You could equip two inline ball valves in the ATX case to isolate that system and two NON-SHUTOFF disconnects between the two boxes. When you want to do maintenance you just open the drain valve until it doesn't drip and re-close it. Close the valves in your case, undo the disconnects, and move the case to a safe location. If you need to remove cooling hardware in your case, any coolant left in it will remain in it and won't leak on your components.

With all that said, you can do this the way you've originally described if you're smart about it and have it completely mapped from the beginning. I'm just trying to point out ways you MAY be able to improve it. I'm just coming from the hurdles I faced when designing my system, but then again, I wasn't trying to cram it all into such a small space either.
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Unread 02-11-2003, 08:10 PM   #12
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Airspirit, thank you for all your advice, as it is much appreciated. If you look at my last post, you will see a few changes I have made to the design.

To make sure you are looking at the same version I am on, look at these pics: http://www.thengc.net/images/waterco...-neg-press/v2/ .

I will be using 6 x 92mm fans rated @ 53cfm @ 30db. That gives me over 300 cfm through my two rads that I will be running in parallel. I had to go with 93 mm fans so I could stay at my height limit. I still believe these will give me adequate flow, as I am using more radiator space than I believe is required for the wattage I will be cooling (approx 120-150). Your thoughts?

As far as routing the tubing into the desktop case I have found high flow quick disconnects (ID smallest part is 3/8") and will be using those to maintain both systems seperately. I will take the top off the desktop case, disconnect the two water hoses and my electrical plug, and lift the desktop case off of the cooling box.

As far as a res goes, I do have one in those pics. It is the red box in the back corner.



Please elaborate on the splitting of flow? Do you mean to split flow before the coolant goes to any block? And then combine the flow again before it goes back to the reservoir? Would this not reduce the flow (and in direct proportion, the velocity) of the White Water Rapids block? Please elaborate on this point....

Again, I thank you Airspirit for taking the time to give your advice. Please continue doing so.

Brian W

Update: Just did some side work for a glass and mirror company, and they said they could build my the cooling box out of Glass. That would be trick....
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Water Cooled Inwin Q500 (Dual Rads: Rad1 = DTEK Pro Core | Rad2 = Blick Ice Estreme, Hydor L30, Dangerden Maze2, Bay Res Typhoon Reservoir, 1/2 " DD Tygon Thick Wall Hose).

Flow: Res, Pump, CPU watervlock, Y into both rads, both rads into res independently.

Athlon XP 1800+ (@ 1731 - 150mhz fsb.), on a Asus A7N266-c, and a Radeon 9000 *waiting for RMA'd Saphire 9800 ultra from Newegg)

Last edited by BrianW; 02-11-2003 at 08:17 PM.
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Unread 02-12-2003, 02:06 AM   #13
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These are the ones I am planning on using.

Return line: 1/2 barb to male quickdisconnect to body quick disconnect (panel mount in top of water chest) to 5/8" barb

Outgoing line: 1/2 barb to panel mount body to plug
(male quick disconnect) to 1/2 barb to blocks

Here is a cool pdf file with some pressure drop charts: http://www.omega.com/Green/pdf/FTHFC12_38.pdf . Could you look them over Aitspirit, and tell me if they would indeed hinder my setup or not?

Thanks again,

Brian W
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Water Cooled Inwin Q500 (Dual Rads: Rad1 = DTEK Pro Core | Rad2 = Blick Ice Estreme, Hydor L30, Dangerden Maze2, Bay Res Typhoon Reservoir, 1/2 " DD Tygon Thick Wall Hose).

Flow: Res, Pump, CPU watervlock, Y into both rads, both rads into res independently.

Athlon XP 1800+ (@ 1731 - 150mhz fsb.), on a Asus A7N266-c, and a Radeon 9000 *waiting for RMA'd Saphire 9800 ultra from Newegg)
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Unread 02-12-2003, 09:48 AM   #14
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Those disconnects are not spring actuated, which is good, though due to the restriction they give, you'd essentially be limiting yourself to a 3/8" loop for three blocks and a PSU. That is bad news.

What I was talking about with splitting loops would be to keep the interior hose in your cooling case at around 3/4", and then splitting in into multiple 1/2" or 3/8" loops for various parallel loops. Since you are cooling so many components, it would destroy your flow to put them all in series, and it would significantly heat the water before it got to the last block.

I would suggest three loops: one would be to the CPU, one would go to the GPU/NB, and one would be strictly for the PSU. Just run two 3/4" lines up into your case through the back, and then use splitters to split off to the various loops, merging back into a single 3/4" line for the way back. The other benefit is that this will lower overall system resistance. You could feasable do this with 5/8" ID line as well, but, um, you're going to be cooling alot of stuff. What you're doing is essentially exactly what I'll be doing once a third PC is added to my "rackmount" system ... except that all of your blocks are in one case.
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Unread 02-12-2003, 09:52 AM   #15
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By the way, that new diagram is a much nicer and cleaner arrangement. Why are you going smaller than 120mm fans? Wouldn't that just lower air flow and increase noise?
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Unread 02-12-2003, 08:01 PM   #16
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Thanks for the responses... The reason I went with 92mm is because of the space requirement, although that is not written in stone.

I will no longer be using a watercooled psu. I found one that is more than quiet enough for me. In light of this, I could still run them in series right? The NB will be the last component, so it should be cooled suffeciently by the slightly warmed water right?

As far as quick disconnects goes, this case has to be mobile. I need to take it apart and reassemble it w/o any water @ hand. I go to LAN parties, and this case has to go with me( I am a show off). I also want nothing protruding out of the back or otherwise. Are there any quick disconnects that offer a higher flow?

Thanks again,

Brian W
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Water Cooled Inwin Q500 (Dual Rads: Rad1 = DTEK Pro Core | Rad2 = Blick Ice Estreme, Hydor L30, Dangerden Maze2, Bay Res Typhoon Reservoir, 1/2 " DD Tygon Thick Wall Hose).

Flow: Res, Pump, CPU watervlock, Y into both rads, both rads into res independently.

Athlon XP 1800+ (@ 1731 - 150mhz fsb.), on a Asus A7N266-c, and a Radeon 9000 *waiting for RMA'd Saphire 9800 ultra from Newegg)
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Unread 02-12-2003, 10:53 PM   #17
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I have found high flow Quick Disconnects (5/8" Nominal flow). Linkage: http://www.colder.com/fl_series.cfm There is one possible problem. They are made out of anodized aluminum. Do you think the anodization will create the battery effect? I will use water wetter, will that help, if the anodization is not enough?

Brian W


EDIT: Nevermind, they do not have shut off valves.... The search continues....

EDIT: They do offer these with shut off valves..... Yeah. WIll it work in my system? Will the anodized aluminum lose its anodization?
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Water Cooled Inwin Q500 (Dual Rads: Rad1 = DTEK Pro Core | Rad2 = Blick Ice Estreme, Hydor L30, Dangerden Maze2, Bay Res Typhoon Reservoir, 1/2 " DD Tygon Thick Wall Hose).

Flow: Res, Pump, CPU watervlock, Y into both rads, both rads into res independently.

Athlon XP 1800+ (@ 1731 - 150mhz fsb.), on a Asus A7N266-c, and a Radeon 9000 *waiting for RMA'd Saphire 9800 ultra from Newegg)

Last edited by BrianW; 02-12-2003 at 11:04 PM.
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Unread 02-13-2003, 09:48 AM   #18
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Anodized aluminum is safe, as long as you don't score them somehow. It is all in your risk quotient: while I personally wouldn't risk it on principle, would you?

Further, there is no such thing as a shutoff valve that does not restrict flow. Even though they may be high flow, I would recommend two pairs of the 5/8", which would probably give you a 3/8" chokepoint on each line.

The reason to go parallel is to save your pump. Since you are using a relatively weak pump for this project (coming from someone that sniffs at pumps under 1000 GPH or 20 ft of head), you want to run the blocks in parallel loops.

The reason for any arrangement is twofold: you want to get the coldest water to all blocks possible, and you want to lower net pressure drop across the blocks to keep your flow rate as high as possible. There are two guidelines to go by here: the higher the flow rate, the higher the pressure drop in a block; and the higher the flow rate, the more effective the block will be.

Since you will have higher flow rate in series, it may appear at first glance to be a better arrangement, even though each block in series gets steadily hotter water. There is more to this, though.

When the blocks are in series, that faster flow has to pound through each block in series, and severely increases system resistance, lowering flow.

When the blocks are in parallel, each block gets colder coolant, but since the flow rate is somewhat halved, there is less pressure drop over the system to lower the flow rate further. This is the same logic we used for the heater cores.

I would hazard to guess that since you are already going to be putting alot of pressure on your pump, you will be nearly killing flow if you put them in series, and you may actually get better flow rates by putting the CPU and GPU/NB in seperate loops ... combine that with cooler water, and you'll get better performance in parallel.

When you add shutoff disconnects into the picture, you want to have the flow rate as low as possible or they will SEVERELY increase resistance. Putting them in series would not only limit the overall ID of your system to around 3/8", but would destroy your flow rates altogether. Putting two pairs (input/output) in parallel before and after two parallel loops will do much less damage to your flow rates. If you want to see that for yourself, request product information on those disconnects and be amazed at the resistance they give over a couple of GPM.

Overall, I think you will much better performance (on the order of 3-6C) if you run the blocks in parallel. Just my two cents. You could use those disconnects if you wanted to ... just be careful not to score the inner surfaces of them, and test their leakability before installation. Some release up to 2-3 cc of water upon disconnection, and you want to make sure that that isn't the case. If it is minor leakage (< .5 cc), you may be able to internally mount them in your ATX case and just wrap them in a cloth when you disconnect them to absorb the minor spillage. All disconnects will have at least SOME spillage. Also, confirm that they are dual way shutoffs. Some will only close one side leaving the other to spill everywhere (used in high pressure nozzles and such).
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Unread 02-17-2003, 05:25 AM   #19
BrianW
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Default V2.1

Well here is V2.1.....



And here are the latest renderings: http://thengc.net/images/watercooled...eg-press/v2.1/

As you see we have color coded things once again to make the parts more visible. I will break down the pieces using this pic.



The bottom is the Blue piece. It will be either .25" or .375" thick (still debating). All the sides are clear in the pic and are not supporting any weight of the top. They are going to be 1/4" thick.

What will be supporting the weight are ten 3/4" Rods (pictured in yellow) that will be tapped on the top and botom. They will be screwed to the bottom piece and the top supports ( two 1/4" thick pieces stacked on top of eachother). They are the red/orange pieces. In between the top supports and the rods will be the top piece (except for the hatch door which is the clear piece on the top), it will be 1/8" thick, along with the hatch door. It is pictured in green. Underneath that piece will be several pieces that will make up our support for the hatch door. It is the black/grey piece. That is the piece where the hatch door will sit and the piece where we will afix the thumbscrews to button down the hatch. There will ne foam there to act as an air gasket.

Here is an updated parts list:

Pump: Iwaki MD-20RZ(T) http://www.iwakipumps.com/pub/SpecSheets/MD1520.pdf
Radiators: Two Fedco 2-617 Heatercores http://www.heatercore4u.com/2-617.htm [Purchased]
Custom reservoir with 1/2" NPT female threads for 5/8" Barbs
Quick Disconnects: 5/8" Nominal flow CPC Valved shutoffs http://www.colder.com/fl_series.cfm [Purchased]
Waterblocks:
1 CPU Waterblock ( http://jpiperformance.com/water_blocks.htm )
1 GPU Waterblock ( http://www.dangerden.com/mall/chipset.asp )
1 NB Waterblock ( DD Danger Den Z-Chip Block )
Fans: Six 120X25mm Aluminum Fans http://jab-tech.com/120mm_aluminum_a...ome_79cfm.html

Approximate Tubing lengths:
5/8" Tubing: 2-2.5'
1/2" Tubing: 1.5-2.5'

# of 90 degree turns:
3/4" Schedule40 Pipe: 4 (on each side of quick disconnects)

T's:
1/2" Copper T's: 2 (on inlet and outlet of radiators)

Y's:
1/2" Hose adapter Y (after CPU block)

Anyone care to estimate the Head that will give me, and the resultant expected flow with the pump I have chosen?
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Flow: Res, Pump, CPU watervlock, Y into both rads, both rads into res independently.

Athlon XP 1800+ (@ 1731 - 150mhz fsb.), on a Asus A7N266-c, and a Radeon 9000 *waiting for RMA'd Saphire 9800 ultra from Newegg)

Last edited by BrianW; 02-17-2003 at 05:40 AM.
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Unread 02-17-2003, 07:40 AM   #20
Volenti
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Default Re: V2.1

Quote:
Originally posted by BrianW


Anyone care to estimate the Head that will give me, and the resultant expected flow with the pump I have chosen?
well I can't see that setup using more than 2m of head (more like 1.5m) so according to the pumps curve you should still get 500-600L/H, plenty.
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Unread 02-24-2003, 06:16 PM   #21
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Well I finished the rads(mostly)....



I put em on a thread in another forum topic: http://forums.procooling.com/vbb/sho...&threadid=5896 .

For more pics on the whole project: http://thengc.net/images/watercooled/plexi-neg-press/ .

Thanks again,

Brian W
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Water Cooled Inwin Q500 (Dual Rads: Rad1 = DTEK Pro Core | Rad2 = Blick Ice Estreme, Hydor L30, Dangerden Maze2, Bay Res Typhoon Reservoir, 1/2 " DD Tygon Thick Wall Hose).

Flow: Res, Pump, CPU watervlock, Y into both rads, both rads into res independently.

Athlon XP 1800+ (@ 1731 - 150mhz fsb.), on a Asus A7N266-c, and a Radeon 9000 *waiting for RMA'd Saphire 9800 ultra from Newegg)
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Unread 03-03-2003, 04:25 AM   #22
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Well I got the quick disconnects in. Here is a product link: http://www.colder.com/fl_series.cfm

I connected them and blew through them. They seem very unrestrictive to flow. As good as one could get with quick disconnects I imagine. When I get my pump, I will do some flow tests and attempt to determine pressure drop.

Here are a couple pics:



3/4" NPT sides:



and the Coupler side:



Brian W
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Water Cooled Inwin Q500 (Dual Rads: Rad1 = DTEK Pro Core | Rad2 = Blick Ice Estreme, Hydor L30, Dangerden Maze2, Bay Res Typhoon Reservoir, 1/2 " DD Tygon Thick Wall Hose).

Flow: Res, Pump, CPU watervlock, Y into both rads, both rads into res independently.

Athlon XP 1800+ (@ 1731 - 150mhz fsb.), on a Asus A7N266-c, and a Radeon 9000 *waiting for RMA'd Saphire 9800 ultra from Newegg)
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Unread 03-04-2003, 05:04 PM   #23
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What do you think of that Enlight case? I've been taking the structural support bar out of it, and they've been working fine ... it opens airflow nicely. You've probably already done this, though ....

Do you see why I suggested blowholes? The front fan mount doesn't allow the fan to pull almost any air (it's only the tiny side slits that are open to draw in air).
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Unread 03-04-2003, 05:18 PM   #24
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The case is as I suspected. And yes I am taking that support bar(also holds a harddrive) out. I think I am just going to allow the powersupply to draw out. I am going to increase the size on the holes in the front. Prolly 3-6 times larger diameter. If i see my mosfets on my mobo getting too warm ill think about installing a 120 in my window on the top of the case for air input.

I really want to get my pump and blocks so I can do some flow testing.

Ill keep you updated.....

Brian W
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Water Cooled Inwin Q500 (Dual Rads: Rad1 = DTEK Pro Core | Rad2 = Blick Ice Estreme, Hydor L30, Dangerden Maze2, Bay Res Typhoon Reservoir, 1/2 " DD Tygon Thick Wall Hose).

Flow: Res, Pump, CPU watervlock, Y into both rads, both rads into res independently.

Athlon XP 1800+ (@ 1731 - 150mhz fsb.), on a Asus A7N266-c, and a Radeon 9000 *waiting for RMA'd Saphire 9800 ultra from Newegg)
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Unread 03-04-2003, 07:57 PM   #25
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It looks like a very snazzy arrangement, but positioning the fans like that will give you pisspoor airflow, won't it? You're not really directing airflow, just counting on the tiny pressure head of the fans to draw air.

Seems like an application much better suited to a blower.

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