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General Liquid/Water Cooling Discussion For discussion about Full Cooling System kits, or general cooling topics. Keep specific cooling items like pumps, radiators, etc... in their specific forums. |
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07-15-2004, 06:17 AM | #1 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Down Under
Posts: 11
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Swiftech MCW50 GPU waterblock - 1/2" whoops?
I was told that this GPU waterblock uses quick connect 1/2" OD tubing.
So I head off and bought some 1/2", 13mm clear PVC tubing from the hardware shop for a trial run. It doesn't fit the collet as mentioned in the installation manual. It seems its designed for a smaller diameter piping. But if I take the collet out - the hose fit in quite nicely and tightly without crimping the ends inside the waterblock entrance/exit holes. Is this safe? It does take considerable pressure to pull it out even without the locking collet. Did I get the wrong size tubing? |
07-15-2004, 07:47 AM | #2 |
Thermophile
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 2,538
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It's safe to do this so long as the tubing is not folding and allowing a leak.
However - you WILL have troubles getting the tubing back out again without the collet. The collet doesn't really lock the tubing, it allows you to "unlock" it. |
07-15-2004, 07:53 AM | #3 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Down Under
Posts: 11
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Actually its just as hard getting in AND out. The only thing holding the collet in is the size restriction of the hole. I guess only testing will find out
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07-15-2004, 08:39 AM | #4 |
CoolingWorks Tech Guy Formerly "Unregistered"
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wrong size tubing, not recommended
3/8" ID, 1/2"OD is what is needed barbed adaptors are sold to enable use of the 1/2" ID tubing shown when it leaks, go look in the mirror |
07-15-2004, 09:01 AM | #5 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Down Under
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Aaahh friggin hell - the tubing is 1/2" ID - BAH!
Gotta get some barbs - will test the circulation *outside* the computer and see how it holds. |
07-15-2004, 09:04 AM | #6 |
CoolingWorks Tech Guy Formerly "Unregistered"
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better no leaks than another DIY lash-up
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07-15-2004, 10:41 AM | #7 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: portugal
Posts: 635
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Do like me and buy a "Fitting: 1/2in. Stem to 1/2in. tube ID hose barb - Part # PI251616S"
http://www.swiftnets.com/store/category.asp?CatID=2 4 bucks
__________________
back. |
07-15-2004, 07:50 PM | #8 |
Thermophile
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 2,538
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Forgive me, I was thinking heatwave was talking about something like the difference between 13.0mm OD vs 12.7mm OD (1/2"), where the slightly larger tubing would not fit the collet, but would still be sealed by the O-ring without the collet. |
07-15-2004, 08:00 PM | #9 |
CoolingWorks Tech Guy Formerly "Unregistered"
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I was kinda surprised, hadn't seen you doing that kind of rigging before.
its cool |
08-14-2004, 07:22 PM | #10 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: suburbs of chicago
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Sorry to start up what may be a dead thread but I need help guys. I have a mcw5000 water block and I got the 1/2" stem to 1/2" barb adapter. The problem is that I have no clue how to connect the 1/2" stem (smooth part) to the water block. I thought I could just plug it in but it leaked all crazy style. If anyone has used this before, please help.
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08-14-2004, 07:28 PM | #11 |
CoolingWorks Tech Guy Formerly "Unregistered"
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sounds like something is missing ?
call Swiftech tech support |
08-14-2004, 07:44 PM | #12 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: suburbs of chicago
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Well I sent them an email late last night (friday), so I probably won't hear from them til monday. From the pictures I've seen on other people's websites that used the adapter, it seems to be a direct connection. The only thing I can think of is something that may go inside the stem part of the adapter.
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09-15-2004, 03:22 PM | #13 | |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Durham, NC USA
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Quote:
Was this ever resolved? I'm having the same problem. |
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09-15-2004, 03:31 PM | #14 | |
CoolingWorks Tech Guy Formerly "Unregistered"
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Quote:
did you call tech support ? |
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09-15-2004, 06:39 PM | #15 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: suburbs of chicago
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You just have to push in the plastic thingy all the way. When i say all the way, i mean give it some force. It has to get through the o-ring to make a tight seal. Only about 1 cm or less of the end that goes into the wb should be showing.
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09-18-2004, 08:03 PM | #16 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Charlotte
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I have one as well, No problems at all. Just push in the 1/2" stem with a lot of force like gotensan01 said.
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09-18-2004, 08:24 PM | #17 |
CoolingWorks Tech Guy Formerly "Unregistered"
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if pushing it in is a problem, put a bit of soap on the tube - then push hard while turning just a bit
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09-21-2004, 04:02 PM | #18 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Hamburg
Posts: 141
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from the specification for those pushin barbs, it is only allowed to use it with PUR/PUN or Teflon Tube. PVC is not made for pushin connectors, because it is too soft and changes it form easily ->leak
It can work for a long time maybe, but keep in mind that these connectors are nit constructed with pvctubing in mind, so no guarantees on the safeness of this solution. For example the pvc gets even more flexible within the time and with some warm water in it. Time by time it can slip a little bit out of the holding clamps. |
09-21-2004, 04:43 PM | #19 | |
Cooling Neophyte
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Quote:
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09-21-2004, 04:46 PM | #20 | |
CoolingWorks Tech Guy Formerly "Unregistered"
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Quote:
what is your source of information ? your speculations ? please cite specific instances Swiftech has MANY 10s of thousands of these connectors using vinyl tubing with years of service we are one of the principal users of these fittings in the US no problems (LEAKS) such as you postulate have occurred you are full of speculative bull shit feel free to quote me EDIT now I am curious, davidzo do you have a commercial interest ? |
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09-22-2004, 08:16 AM | #21 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Hamburg
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don't insult me. I have said nothing against you and it is embarrassing, as you specify yourself here with a simple substantive topic.
I have no reason to answer you. Here is the website of the Developer of the qick connections, so you can check it yourself: http://www.legris.com/legris/en_en/h.../vuid/HomePage Vinyl tubes are not general PVC Tubes from the hardwareshop. Tubes as the famous Tygon use are mixed with hardeners and have a much bigger wall thickness as normal PVC tubes. |
09-22-2004, 08:47 AM | #22 |
CoolingWorks Tech Guy Formerly "Unregistered"
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I am not concerned with what you say about me, I am a known entity (good and/or bad)
but when you spout crap I WILL hand you a BULL SHIT card read this thread, it is about the connections in some Swiftech components, made by John Guest (UK) so anything you say should be related to those parts (or you could say: 'hey, this other mfgr says . . . . ') do you know what a tubing insert is for ? I repeat, you are uninformed and spouting nonsense (does not apply to the components being discussed) if you have no reason to answer me, why post ? and I repeat: do you have a commercial interest ? I smell a vested interest in a competitive vendor ?? anyone know this fellow ? |
09-22-2004, 09:58 AM | #23 | |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: USA - Boston area
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Quote:
Finally, I really like the way the JG Speedfits allow tubing to rotate. Removing rotational torque from your hoses means one less force trying to pry the waterblock off the CPU - IMHO a good thing. |
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09-22-2004, 10:30 AM | #24 |
CoolingWorks Tech Guy Formerly "Unregistered"
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the ID and sweep elbows of copper are always preferred (how I used to connect the MCW5000)
but that's a DIY thing EDIT: gee Bob, I never looked at the link now I'm the dummy |
09-22-2004, 10:53 AM | #25 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Hamburg
Posts: 141
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legris invented this type of fittingst. But there are thousands of other manufacturers produce fittings similar to this ones (i actually don't like the appearance of the speedfits very much). Only to give some names: Landefeld, Timmer, IQS, Legris, CPT Pneumatik etc.
I actually read a few sites on this topic, because i have only known pur/pun tubing for qick connects. Thats what is normally used in the industry, especially with smaller fittings. Swiftech uses hardened PVC Tubes, which are different to those you can get in a simple hardwarestore. Thats only possible because of the very thick wand of this tubes, which is not the case with normal aquarium pvctubing! I have some 14mm pushin connectors (from metal) here, so i know what im talking (can take some photos if you want) and tried to use it with 14*2 Rauclair E tubing from my hardware store and had a leakage after one day and the clamps inside the fittings didn't had enough grip to hold the tube. I can believe that it could work with some stiffer tubing, but i know any other company than swiftech which uses pvc for quick connectors. Even the company John guest itself don't sell them with PVC tube. The rotating mechanism of the fittings is also a very nice feature preventing the hose to squeeze (and leak) because of rotational torque. @BillA: I know you a little, and i have read many tests you have written, but I am heavily surprised, that you are a so impudently and unfriendly guy. I know what a tubing insert ist for, and i bet that i had more different quick connectors in my hand in this live than you, sorry but you don't know my circumstances, so don't be rude. I have no commercial Interests, if you look a little bit to the right you would have seen that i am from Hamburg and with a little intelligence you can easily guess, that i would be aware of shipping things for horrible costs to USA or anywere LOL Second thing is, that makes your question really silly, that you can't change the fittings of the swiffie, because there is no Thread in the block. So why should i make some advertisement for really no reason? Please don't flame at me fpr no reason, thats what children can make in their pleyground, but this is a serious Forum with substantive Diskussion, there is no space for flaming. |
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