waterblock base

PetDMC · 01-30-2002, 03:13 PM

hey i need to know the optimal thickness should be for the base?

i was thinking 2mm thick for a copper block

thx

DarkEdge · 01-30-2002, 04:21 PM

Not sure what the best thickness would be, but I do know you want to have it as thin as possible, so long as you don't compromise structual integrity. Would really cuck if you clamped it down tight only to find a crack and water spilling out.

jaydee · 01-30-2002, 05:18 PM

Actually NO, you do not want it as thin as possible. The thinner you go the more local the heat will be at the core. If you make it thicker the heat will spread out better and the block as a whole will be used instead of just the spot where the core touches. I have found 1/8" to be good which is close to 4mm. If you make a block start thick and take it down a mm at a time and record the temps. Go untill it starts warming up and then make a new block to the optimal thickness. If I go under 1/8" on mine it starts heating up, and if I go over 1/8" it does the same.

Every design will vary so you will have to do a little trial and error and make a few blocks to ge it optimized.

DarkEdge · 01-30-2002, 08:07 PM

Well, guess I'm proven wrong. Most people I have been told by say thinner is better. You learn something new everyday.

Brad · 01-30-2002, 09:46 PM

each block is differant. As jaydee said, the thicker the copper the better it is at spreading out the heat.

Also of course some designs need differant thickness's. For a centre inlet block, I'd say it'd be a bit thinner, while in a remote inlet block, I'd say a bit thicker, but it does depend on each block design

Fixittt · 02-03-2002, 12:12 PM

Something else to consider, if you have a really thin base, and go to mount it, and put any kind of preassure on it, it could warp the base, or crack it. Been there, done that! Also I understand that everywhere you look, people tell U to use distl. water and some sort of corrosion addiative, but I am sure everyone here knows of at least one person who is running tap water in there rig. And if you have a really thin base, and corrosion starts to set in... and eats thrue it, who is that person gonna blame? get my point?

8-Ball · 02-05-2002, 01:22 PM

Has anyone ever considered using something like this as the base to a water block cos I know I have,

http://www.thermacore.com/thermabase.htm

basically a heat pipe in the shape of a plate which is used as the base for heatsinks. Offers very low spreading resistance so the heat from the core would be spread evenly throughout the whole base of the block.

8ball

futRtrubL · 02-05-2002, 03:11 PM

Cool, I think this will be the future of comercial cooling.. if it's not too expensive of cource. ;']

Edward

Brad · 02-05-2002, 03:56 PM

I doubt it will be too expensive, many laptops use it.

Remember how the original thermoengine was? I'd like to see a heatsink with a proper heatpipe in the middle, and a lot of thin fins radiating from it out to 80mm wide.

jaydee · 02-05-2002, 04:34 PM

I e-mailed them and asked for a sample, prices, and where to buy it.

01-30-2002, 03:13 PM	#1
PetDMC Cooling Savant Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: Toronto, Canada Posts: 109	waterblock base hey i need to know the optimal thickness should be for the base? i was thinking 2mm thick for a copper block thx

01-30-2002, 09:46 PM	#5
Brad Thermophile Join Date: Oct 2001 Location: Nuu Zeeelin Posts: 3,175	each block is differant. As jaydee said, the thicker the copper the better it is at spreading out the heat. Also of course some designs need differant thickness's. For a centre inlet block, I'd say it'd be a bit thinner, while in a remote inlet block, I'd say a bit thicker, but it does depend on each block design __________________ 2x P3 1100's at 1400, Abit VP6, 2x Corsair 256mb PC150 sticks, 20gb 'cuda ATA-III, 2x 40gb 'cuda ATA-IV in raid 0. 20" Trinitron. No fans 2x 2400+ at 2288mhz (16.0 x 143), Iwill MPX2, 2x Kingmax PC-3200 256mb sticks, 4x 20gb 60gxp in Raid 5 on a Promise SX6000. Asus Ti4200 320/630. Cooled by Water

02-03-2002, 12:12 PM	#6
Fixittt CNC Beyatch Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: Tulsa Spell it backwards Posts: 721	Something else to consider, if you have a really thin base, and go to mount it, and put any kind of preassure on it, it could warp the base, or crack it. Been there, done that! Also I understand that everywhere you look, people tell U to use distl. water and some sort of corrosion addiative, but I am sure everyone here knows of at least one person who is running tap water in there rig. And if you have a really thin base, and corrosion starts to set in... and eats thrue it, who is that person gonna blame? get my point? __________________ Creator of the Spir@l Block Longest post ever http://forums.procooling.com/vbb/showthread.php?s=&postid=43808#post43808

02-05-2002, 03:56 PM	#9
Brad Thermophile Join Date: Oct 2001 Location: Nuu Zeeelin Posts: 3,175	I doubt it will be too expensive, many laptops use it. Remember how the original thermoengine was? I'd like to see a heatsink with a proper heatpipe in the middle, and a lot of thin fins radiating from it out to 80mm wide. __________________ 2x P3 1100's at 1400, Abit VP6, 2x Corsair 256mb PC150 sticks, 20gb 'cuda ATA-III, 2x 40gb 'cuda ATA-IV in raid 0. 20" Trinitron. No fans 2x 2400+ at 2288mhz (16.0 x 143), Iwill MPX2, 2x Kingmax PC-3200 256mb sticks, 4x 20gb 60gxp in Raid 5 on a Promise SX6000. Asus Ti4200 320/630. Cooled by Water

01-30-2002, 04:21 PM	#2
DarkEdge Cooling Savant Join Date: Mar 2001 Location: Sugar Land, Tx Posts: 176	Not sure what the best thickness would be, but I do know you want to have it as thin as possible, so long as you don't compromise structual integrity. Would really cuck if you clamped it down tight only to find a crack and water spilling out.

01-30-2002, 05:18 PM	#3
jaydee Put up or Shut Up Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Spokane WA Posts: 6,506	Actually NO, you do not want it as thin as possible. The thinner you go the more local the heat will be at the core. If you make it thicker the heat will spread out better and the block as a whole will be used instead of just the spot where the core touches. I have found 1/8" to be good which is close to 4mm. If you make a block start thick and take it down a mm at a time and record the temps. Go untill it starts warming up and then make a new block to the optimal thickness. If I go under 1/8" on mine it starts heating up, and if I go over 1/8" it does the same. Every design will vary so you will have to do a little trial and error and make a few blocks to ge it optimized.

01-30-2002, 08:07 PM	#4
DarkEdge Cooling Savant Join Date: Mar 2001 Location: Sugar Land, Tx Posts: 176	Well, guess I'm proven wrong. Most people I have been told by say thinner is better. You learn something new everyday.

02-05-2002, 01:22 PM	#7
8-Ball Cooling Savant Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Oxford University, UK Posts: 452	Has anyone ever considered using something like this as the base to a water block cos I know I have, http://www.thermacore.com/thermabase.htm basically a heat pipe in the shape of a plate which is used as the base for heatsinks. Offers very low spreading resistance so the heat from the core would be spread evenly throughout the whole base of the block. 8ball

02-05-2002, 03:11 PM	#8
futRtrubL Cooling Savant Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: Kingston, Jamaica Posts: 204	Cool, I think this will be the future of comercial cooling.. if it's not too expensive of cource. ;'] Edward

02-05-2002, 04:34 PM	#10
jaydee Put up or Shut Up Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Spokane WA Posts: 6,506	I e-mailed them and asked for a sample, prices, and where to buy it.

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