Putting WhiteWater Back Together, Help!

Sproket · 05-30-2003, 01:32 PM

I took apart the block b/c the was something stuck in channels. Well Im not sure I have it put back right.
Can you help?
I know about the 3 little dots on the side, but Im not sure how the center piece sits.

Thanks

jaydee · 05-30-2003, 05:33 PM

Next time run a line down the side of the block with a marker. Then match the lines up on the peices.

Can't figure out exactly why it would be a challenge to figure out how to put it back together so I can't really help.

Sproket · 05-30-2003, 06:07 PM

I did think about that but I said to myself I will remember, then someone interupted me. S h i t...
The only thing that matters is if you dont put the center piece in right then the impingment (spelling) jet wont be over the cpu core exactly. Could vary by a couple of degree.
Thats why Cather put 3 little dots on side of block to mount properly.

Most pics show it being a little to the right when you look down the center tube.

jaydee · 05-30-2003, 06:38 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Sproket
I did think about that but I said to myself I will remember, then someone interupted me. S h i t...
The only thing that matters is if you dont put the center piece in right then the impingment (spelling) jet wont be over the cpu core exactly. Could vary by a couple of degree.
Thats why Cather put 3 little dots on side of block to mount properly.

Most pics show it being a little to the right when you look down the center tube.

I think you just answered your own question. If not then figure out which side the CPU is offset and turn the middle plate to match.

Sproket · 05-30-2003, 06:41 PM

Yeah I was going to measure it when I get home.
I was just curious if someone new why I was at work.
Thanks

Since87 · 05-30-2003, 06:47 PM

Aren't the three dots on the middle plate?

I believe the top and bottom plates are symmetrical, so their orientation doesn't matter.

The nozzle plate needs to be installed with the chamfered side of the nozzle towards the barb plate.

Or is the question which end goes towards the socket's lever? In that case it is the dotted end.

Cathar · 05-30-2003, 07:31 PM

Since87 has it.

Very hard to get it wrong.

Chamfered side of the nozzle facing up, away from the channels, and facing towards the top plate with the barbs.

Once you do that, it doesn't matter. The middle plate is the one with the 3 dots on it, because the middle plate is the asymmetrical piece. The other two pieces are symmetrical and so don't care which way they go. Once you assemble it, the 3 dots naturally tell you which way to mount it, being with the 3 dots to the side with the mounting lever.

Quote:

I was just curious if someone new why I was at work.

Because it pays it money to live, and gives one's life some form of meaning and purpose.

shroomer · 05-31-2003, 01:17 AM

Where do you work that gives you meaning and purpose? Ugh!

I thought Meaning and purpose was to work as little as possible!

utabintarbo · 05-31-2003, 11:04 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by shroomer
Where do you work that gives you meaning and purpose? Ugh!

I thought Meaning and purpose was to work as little as possible!

Sounds like someone from Ohio.

Oh.

Yeah.

Sproket · 05-31-2003, 11:09 PM

yeah I figured it out, but I was anxious to get it figured out when I was at work. I actually had some hair and lent ball blocking water flow in a channel. Performance did not suffer but the water flow was 70% less!

There goes to show you What A Great Block!

Thanks Stew

Cathar · 05-31-2003, 11:32 PM

In future, sometimes it's easier to just blow the stuff out.

Put your finger over one exit barb, and blow hard in the other exit barb. The change-over and do the same with the xit barbs swapped around.

This is usually enough to blow lint and fluff out without having to disassemble.

Lint/fluff rarely gets stuck in the actual channels, it just sits on top of the channels under the inlet, and blowing backwards through the block is enough to get it out.

Mercury · 06-01-2003, 01:29 AM

cather, i was wondering... how do these people already have WW blocks!? im very anxious to build my dtek system, but i have to wait half a month cause i want the WW instead of the tc-4. is there any way you can hook me up for a pre-release one?

nikhsub1 · 06-01-2003, 02:20 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Mercury
cather, i was wondering... how do these people already have WW blocks!? im very anxious to build my dtek system, but i have to wait half a month cause i want the WW instead of the tc-4. is there any way you can hook me up for a pre-release one?

Cathar made about 150 blocks himself, he started selling them in around October of last year. He has long since stopped producing them himself, he has turned it over to D-Tek. So, no, you can not get a block from him.

05-30-2003, 01:32 PM	#1
Sproket Cooling Savant Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: Phoenix, AZ Posts: 193	Putting WhiteWater Back Together, Help! I took apart the block b/c the was something stuck in channels. Well Im not sure I have it put back right. Can you help? I know about the 3 little dots on the side, but Im not sure how the center piece sits. Thanks __________________ NF7-S Bios D1.8 218FSB X 11.5 1700+ DLT3C 0310 @ 2511Mhz TwinMos 2x256 PC3200 BH-5 Albatron TI4800se 310/643 3dmark 15,110 3DMark2001SE Link

05-30-2003, 06:07 PM	#3
Sproket Cooling Savant Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: Phoenix, AZ Posts: 193	I did think about that but I said to myself I will remember, then someone interupted me. S h i t... The only thing that matters is if you dont put the center piece in right then the impingment (spelling) jet wont be over the cpu core exactly. Could vary by a couple of degree. Thats why Cather put 3 little dots on side of block to mount properly. Most pics show it being a little to the right when you look down the center tube. __________________ NF7-S Bios D1.8 218FSB X 11.5 1700+ DLT3C 0310 @ 2511Mhz TwinMos 2x256 PC3200 BH-5 Albatron TI4800se 310/643 3dmark 15,110 3DMark2001SE Link

05-30-2003, 06:41 PM	#5
Sproket Cooling Savant Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: Phoenix, AZ Posts: 193	Yeah I was going to measure it when I get home. I was just curious if someone new why I was at work. Thanks __________________ NF7-S Bios D1.8 218FSB X 11.5 1700+ DLT3C 0310 @ 2511Mhz TwinMos 2x256 PC3200 BH-5 Albatron TI4800se 310/643 3dmark 15,110 3DMark2001SE Link

05-31-2003, 11:09 PM	#10
Sproket Cooling Savant Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: Phoenix, AZ Posts: 193	yeah I figured it out, but I was anxious to get it figured out when I was at work. I actually had some hair and lent ball blocking water flow in a channel. Performance did not suffer but the water flow was 70% less! There goes to show you What A Great Block! Thanks Stew __________________ NF7-S Bios D1.8 218FSB X 11.5 1700+ DLT3C 0310 @ 2511Mhz TwinMos 2x256 PC3200 BH-5 Albatron TI4800se 310/643 3dmark 15,110 3DMark2001SE Link

05-30-2003, 05:33 PM	#2
jaydee Put up or Shut Up Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Spokane WA Posts: 6,506	Next time run a line down the side of the block with a marker. Then match the lines up on the peices. Can't figure out exactly why it would be a challenge to figure out how to put it back together so I can't really help.

05-30-2003, 06:47 PM	#6
Since87 Pro/Guru - Uber Mod Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Indiana Posts: 834	Aren't the three dots on the middle plate? I believe the top and bottom plates are symmetrical, so their orientation doesn't matter. The nozzle plate needs to be installed with the chamfered side of the nozzle towards the barb plate. Or is the question which end goes towards the socket's lever? In that case it is the dotted end.

05-31-2003, 01:17 AM	#8
shroomer Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Nov 2001 Location: Ohio Posts: 15	Where do you work that gives you meaning and purpose? Ugh! I thought Meaning and purpose was to work as little as possible!

05-31-2003, 11:32 PM	#11
Cathar Thermophile Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Melbourne, Australia Posts: 2,538	In future, sometimes it's easier to just blow the stuff out. Put your finger over one exit barb, and blow hard in the other exit barb. The change-over and do the same with the xit barbs swapped around. This is usually enough to blow lint and fluff out without having to disassemble. Lint/fluff rarely gets stuck in the actual channels, it just sits on top of the channels under the inlet, and blowing backwards through the block is enough to get it out.

06-01-2003, 01:29 AM	#12
Mercury Cooling Neophyte Join Date: May 2003 Location: Seattle, WA Posts: 20	cather, i was wondering... how do these people already have WW blocks!? im very anxious to build my dtek system, but i have to wait half a month cause i want the WW instead of the tc-4. is there any way you can hook me up for a pre-release one?

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