Acrylic Top for a WB

-J- · 01-07-2003, 04:20 AM

hi, i've heard that acrylic tops tend to break, mainly cause of the hoses making force sideways.

would making a holding structure for the hoses solve this??

hope i was clear enough, sometimes my english really sucks.

morphling1 · 01-07-2003, 05:34 AM

I haven't have any problem with pleksy tops ( I don't realy know correctly what kind of material it is, I need to ask the guy I'm buying from), I presure test cpu block at 5 bars and there's no leaking or cracking, I can't realy see how can a top crack with ~10mm of thread if you have a little sideway force. Befor the force from a hose would crack my top, it would rip the block out of the motheboard holes, so cracking the top won't be realy a problem

Puzzdre · 01-07-2003, 06:58 AM

Morph, how thick you made the tops? I have one piece of 8 mm thick plexy I was planning to give it a try...I couldn't find any thicker piece here (for now

)...

ps, GOOD to see you back!!!

bigben2k · 01-07-2003, 07:18 AM

The cracks come from micro fractures, from cutting/drilling into it.

http://www.extrication.com/polycarb.htm

So for polycarbonate, you can use Methylene Chloride to seal them.

For Acrylic (or any other plastic), I'd just use my micro torch to bond the surface of the drilled holes.

-J- · 01-07-2003, 07:54 AM

what do you think about this design??

i dont have a mill, so i figured out this design would be cheap and easy to make.

Puzzdre · 01-07-2003, 09:12 AM

I like the design, but have one question: are you gonna make those bolts shorter (or the springs bigger)? As I see it, this mounting mechanism will be with nuts only on the bottom side of the mobo, which makes re-installing the block more complicated having to take out whole mobo...or you have the hole in the mobo tray for easy access to the nuts?

The block looks nice (so far

), what base thickness you're thinking of?

Cheers!

-J- · 01-07-2003, 09:32 AM

oh, the bolts, those bolts are that long cause i made them for another desing, and i just re used them.

i supose that in the real thing, the springs would be longer, and the bolts shorter.

the base thickness would be 7mm high, and the bumps would be 2mm deep. so the base will always be 5mm thick at least.

PS: there's any risk of microfractures on the acrilyc on this design??

bigben2k · 01-07-2003, 09:38 AM

Seeing that the acrylic part is about 1 1/2 inch thick, I wouldn't worry about a crack...

-J- · 01-07-2003, 10:23 AM

what about performance, this king of blocks are good??

i guess it will need a high flow pump.

LiquidRulez · 01-07-2003, 12:20 PM

Nice concept. What did you render that with ??

You might want to cut a recess in the bottom of the base plate where the MOtherboard socket raises up above the CPU. If not, youll have some problems trying to get it to mount flush with the core.

Unless Im missing something..........

morphling1 · 01-07-2003, 12:40 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Puzzdre
Morph, how thick you made the tops? I have one piece of 8 mm thick plexy I was planning to give it a try...I couldn't find any thicker piece here (for now )...

ps, GOOD to see you back!!!

Thanks, but I still don't get any emails, so I'm slow with replies

I use 15mm pleksy for cpu and 20mm for gpu block where fitting are from the side.
I have some workshop 20km away from me that is working only with pleksy, so they cnc cut my pieces what ever I want them, and they are pretty cheap too. If you can't find anything just let me know what you need, and I'll send it to you as long as you don't need 1 m2 20mm pleksy plate

-J- I'm also interested in what you use for 3d modeling, and also must tell you, don't forget to cut recess about 1mm deep if your base plate is larger then 50*50mm, for avoiding cpu socket step.

-J- · 01-07-2003, 12:41 PM

i made it with 3D Studio Max 4.2 , no exactly meant for this kind of use, but it works good for me

i know i have to cut the bottom, i just forgot to do it.

BTW, i want to test this block really really bad before putting it on my system. in fact im planning on selling some of this, so i need the to really be perfect.

any idea about some stressing test that i could do. apart from a leak test.

i mean things like testing the prototype with high presure, high temperature on the baseplate, etc.

ChronoS · 01-07-2003, 09:09 PM

how thick does the acrylic needs to be??(for not cracking)
sorry for my engilsh

aitor · 01-07-2003, 10:34 PM

The thick of the acrylic one depends on the design and the diameters of the holes. The DM4 has walls of 5 m.m. and neither he has problems with threads of 3/8."

PD:-j- el link de ciudad no anda.

-J- · 01-08-2003, 04:59 AM

aitor, as far as i know, the problem wasnt the wall thickness, but the microfractures created when the holes were made + the presure the barbs made when the hose moves.

PS: the links works fine for most people. lets try to talk in english here.

nicozeg · 01-08-2003, 08:15 AM

Your design looks good, but I think it could be a lot simpler if you avoid the top plate, and just screw the barbs on the acrylic. Just like aitor made it, but maybe you want to diferentiate your work from him

-J- · 01-08-2003, 09:31 AM

it isnt that i want to diferentiate from aitor.

its that i dont want barbs on acrilyc.

i dont feel that they are secure enough.

LiquidRulez · 01-08-2003, 11:28 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by -J-
it isnt that i want to diferentiate from aitor.

its that i dont want barbs on acrilyc.

i dont feel that they are secure enough.

As Ive made quite a few blocks with acrylic tops for myself, I must concure...
acrylic/plexi is a bad idea for blocks IMO.Just too many variables that can cause a leak onto your $200 video card and potentially destroy it,while your away from the desk.

I think its a great idea you've got J, for putting the barbs in a metal top that fits over the middle plate. Better to be safe than sorry.

Besides I think it looks better with the extra top on it.

aitor · 01-08-2003, 04:16 PM

The problem of the fissures in the acrylic one is due to an excessive torsion force in the one it presses of the conical threads. Using liquid teflon is not necessary to make too much force to obtain a good stamp. My block 1 take working enough time without any fissure in their cover.

-J- · 01-08-2003, 05:41 PM

i really hope this block will work great, and safely. tomorrow im buying the materials and start working on it.

any last minute recomendations??

PS: making it shorter (the acrylic body 2cm tall instead of 4cm) would reduce de eficiency in any way???

nicozeg · 01-08-2003, 06:19 PM

The problem is not in acrylic itself but on using brass barbs. That's completely overkill, those are designed for high pressure applications. Plastic barbs are the perfect match between acrylic base and soft hoses. What's the point of using a 400 psi resistant barb, if the system is never going to see more than 5?

morphling1 · 01-08-2003, 07:32 PM

Ok that too, but sometime it's harder to get plastic barbs than brass one. For instance here in Slovenia I can't even find good brass ones just custom made which are expensive but today I did found stainless stell 1/2 OD barbs and they are just beautifull, with 3$ a piece they are a little expensive but at least I can buy them.
As for clear tops. I don't know what kind of material you use, but I buy one kind of poly carbonate (methil ethilen or something like that) casted and I never have any problems with cracking if dimension everything corectly. I preasure tested some of my block with o-ring seal up to 5bars for whole day and the didn't leaked, so it's all in correct execution.

-J- · 01-09-2003, 06:26 AM

im having problems finding plastic barbs here too. i guess ill stick to the brass ones.

anyway, today is the first day of a whole new world of cooling for me. im really happy

G33k · 01-09-2003, 08:51 PM

I would prolly make it shallower still tbh. Once the the water's hit the plate, I wouldn't think it'd do any significant additional cooling.. ? I'd also put some pins or something in there to try and increase the surface area a bit.

Other than that, looks sweet

-J- · 01-10-2003, 11:07 AM

i know that it doesnt help in cooling that the acrilic is that tall.

i've increased the radius of the water compartment, added some extra bumps on the Cu plate and added an aditional exhaust noozle.

BTW, the baseplate i got, is 4mm thick, how deep should the bumps be??

01-07-2003, 04:20 AM	#1
-J- Registered User Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Buenos Aires, Argentina Posts: 217	Acrylic Top for a WB hi, i've heard that acrylic tops tend to break, mainly cause of the hoses making force sideways. would making a holding structure for the hoses solve this?? hope i was clear enough, sometimes my english really sucks.

01-07-2003, 05:34 AM	#2
morphling1 Cooling Savant Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Slovenia Posts: 468	I haven't have any problem with pleksy tops ( I don't realy know correctly what kind of material it is, I need to ask the guy I'm buying from), I presure test cpu block at 5 bars and there's no leaking or cracking, I can't realy see how can a top crack with ~10mm of thread if you have a little sideway force. Befor the force from a hose would crack my top, it would rip the block out of the motheboard holes, so cracking the top won't be realy a problem __________________ [My ftp, with lots of pics, hope to be home page someday

01-07-2003, 06:58 AM	#3
Puzzdre Cooling Savant Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Croatia Posts: 969	Morph, how thick you made the tops? I have one piece of 8 mm thick plexy I was planning to give it a try...I couldn't find any thicker piece here (for now )... ps, GOOD to see you back!!! __________________ 'Out of cheese error... ...please reboot the universe (press the GBL to continue)'

01-07-2003, 07:18 AM	#4
bigben2k Responsible for 2% of all the posts here. Join Date: May 2002 Location: Texas, U.S.A. Posts: 8,302	The cracks come from micro fractures, from cutting/drilling into it. http://www.extrication.com/polycarb.htm So for polycarbonate, you can use Methylene Chloride to seal them. For Acrylic (or any other plastic), I'd just use my micro torch to bond the surface of the drilled holes. __________________ WBTA (Water Block Testing Alliance) Nordic Hardware WC 101

01-07-2003, 09:12 AM	#6
Puzzdre Cooling Savant Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Croatia Posts: 969	I like the design, but have one question: are you gonna make those bolts shorter (or the springs bigger)? As I see it, this mounting mechanism will be with nuts only on the bottom side of the mobo, which makes re-installing the block more complicated having to take out whole mobo...or you have the hole in the mobo tray for easy access to the nuts? The block looks nice (so far ), what base thickness you're thinking of? Cheers! __________________ 'Out of cheese error... ...please reboot the universe (press the GBL to continue)'

01-07-2003, 07:54 AM	#5
-J- Registered User Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Buenos Aires, Argentina Posts: 217	what do you think about this design?? i dont have a mill, so i figured out this design would be cheap and easy to make.

01-07-2003, 09:32 AM	#7
-J- Registered User Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Buenos Aires, Argentina Posts: 217	oh, the bolts, those bolts are that long cause i made them for another desing, and i just re used them. i supose that in the real thing, the springs would be longer, and the bolts shorter. the base thickness would be 7mm high, and the bumps would be 2mm deep. so the base will always be 5mm thick at least. PS: there's any risk of microfractures on the acrilyc on this design??

01-07-2003, 09:38 AM	#8
bigben2k Responsible for 2% of all the posts here. Join Date: May 2002 Location: Texas, U.S.A. Posts: 8,302	Seeing that the acrylic part is about 1 1/2 inch thick, I wouldn't worry about a crack... __________________ WBTA (Water Block Testing Alliance) Nordic Hardware WC 101

01-07-2003, 10:23 AM	#9
-J- Registered User Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Buenos Aires, Argentina Posts: 217	what about performance, this king of blocks are good?? i guess it will need a high flow pump.

01-07-2003, 12:20 PM	#10
LiquidRulez Cooling Savant Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: In Hell Posts: 322	Nice concept. What did you render that with ?? You might want to cut a recess in the bottom of the base plate where the MOtherboard socket raises up above the CPU. If not, youll have some problems trying to get it to mount flush with the core. Unless Im missing something..........

01-07-2003, 12:41 PM	#12
-J- Registered User Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Buenos Aires, Argentina Posts: 217	i made it with 3D Studio Max 4.2 , no exactly meant for this kind of use, but it works good for me i know i have to cut the bottom, i just forgot to do it. BTW, i want to test this block really really bad before putting it on my system. in fact im planning on selling some of this, so i need the to really be perfect. any idea about some stressing test that i could do. apart from a leak test. i mean things like testing the prototype with high presure, high temperature on the baseplate, etc.

01-07-2003, 09:09 PM	#13
ChronoS Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Argentina Posts: 9	how thick does the acrylic needs to be??(for not cracking) sorry for my engilsh

01-07-2003, 10:34 PM	#14
aitor Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Buenos Aires-Argentina Posts: 19	The thick of the acrylic one depends on the design and the diameters of the holes. The DM4 has walls of 5 m.m. and neither he has problems with threads of 3/8." PD:-j- el link de ciudad no anda.

01-08-2003, 04:59 AM	#15
-J- Registered User Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Buenos Aires, Argentina Posts: 217	aitor, as far as i know, the problem wasnt the wall thickness, but the microfractures created when the holes were made + the presure the barbs made when the hose moves. PS: the links works fine for most people. lets try to talk in english here.

01-08-2003, 08:15 AM	#16
nicozeg Cooling Savant Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Santiago, Chile Posts: 403	Your design looks good, but I think it could be a lot simpler if you avoid the top plate, and just screw the barbs on the acrylic. Just like aitor made it, but maybe you want to diferentiate your work from him

01-08-2003, 09:31 AM	#17
-J- Registered User Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Buenos Aires, Argentina Posts: 217	it isnt that i want to diferentiate from aitor. its that i dont want barbs on acrilyc. i dont feel that they are secure enough.

01-08-2003, 04:16 PM	#19
aitor Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Buenos Aires-Argentina Posts: 19	The problem of the fissures in the acrylic one is due to an excessive torsion force in the one it presses of the conical threads. Using liquid teflon is not necessary to make too much force to obtain a good stamp. My block 1 take working enough time without any fissure in their cover.

01-08-2003, 05:41 PM	#20
-J- Registered User Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Buenos Aires, Argentina Posts: 217	i really hope this block will work great, and safely. tomorrow im buying the materials and start working on it. any last minute recomendations?? PS: making it shorter (the acrylic body 2cm tall instead of 4cm) would reduce de eficiency in any way???

01-08-2003, 06:19 PM	#21
nicozeg Cooling Savant Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Santiago, Chile Posts: 403	The problem is not in acrylic itself but on using brass barbs. That's completely overkill, those are designed for high pressure applications. Plastic barbs are the perfect match between acrylic base and soft hoses. What's the point of using a 400 psi resistant barb, if the system is never going to see more than 5?

01-08-2003, 07:32 PM	#22
morphling1 Cooling Savant Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Slovenia Posts: 468	Ok that too, but sometime it's harder to get plastic barbs than brass one. For instance here in Slovenia I can't even find good brass ones just custom made which are expensive but today I did found stainless stell 1/2 OD barbs and they are just beautifull, with 3$ a piece they are a little expensive but at least I can buy them. As for clear tops. I don't know what kind of material you use, but I buy one kind of poly carbonate (methil ethilen or something like that) casted and I never have any problems with cracking if dimension everything corectly. I preasure tested some of my block with o-ring seal up to 5bars for whole day and the didn't leaked, so it's all in correct execution. __________________ [My ftp, with lots of pics, hope to be home page someday

01-09-2003, 06:26 AM	#23
-J- Registered User Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Buenos Aires, Argentina Posts: 217	im having problems finding plastic barbs here too. i guess ill stick to the brass ones. anyway, today is the first day of a whole new world of cooling for me. im really happy

01-09-2003, 08:51 PM	#24
G33k Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Bristol [UK] Posts: 73	I would prolly make it shallower still tbh. Once the the water's hit the plate, I wouldn't think it'd do any significant additional cooling.. ? I'd also put some pins or something in there to try and increase the surface area a bit. Other than that, looks sweet __________________ "Success is 99% Failure"

01-10-2003, 11:07 AM	#25
-J- Registered User Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Buenos Aires, Argentina Posts: 217	i know that it doesnt help in cooling that the acrilic is that tall. i've increased the radius of the water compartment, added some extra bumps on the Cu plate and added an aditional exhaust noozle. BTW, the baseplate i got, is 4mm thick, how deep should the bumps be??

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