New Project from the swamp

[Aardil]

HI gang,
I am in the middle of building a new gamer PC and am looking for a bit of input.

Planned Gamer:

A-Bit KV7
Barton 3200
PC 400 DDR ( 1 Gig)
G-force 4 4600 ultra
Hercules Gamer-X theatre
SATA-RAID +0 Seagates 80 Gigs (2)


The Hercules and the G-force are comming out of my current gamer everything else is new.
Of course it will be water cooled.

I am building a case out of Black Plexiglass, this case will hold both the gamer and my server. ( am working on case as we speak).

What you think? Any problems?
The KV7 boards are KT 600 chip sets, no reviews out on it yet and from what I can find they are in transit to the U.S, but not here yet. But according to A-Bit web site it does everything I need. Although the Nic is just the standard 10/100 not the Gigabyte setup

Aardil

[airspirit]

No PCI lock = no buy IMHO. I've heard that they don't have locks, so your overclocking may be fscked out of the gate ... relatively speaking, of course.

I'd go for a different chip as well. Nearly every current Barton 2500+ can be clocked to 2200 Mhz (3200+/11x200) at stock voltage just by changing the settings. Why spend more when you can get a disposable chip that'll run just as fast? Besides, the overclocking potential of both are equal.

As for the board, look at the NF7-S. The SATA is outstanding, the BIOS is sweet, and it is very stable and overclockable. The onboard soundstorm outperforms most consumer sound solutions under $1000 with less processor use than all of them, and the onboard 10/100 NIC is also beyond contemporary peers (really, why would most of us consider giganics?).

With the money saved in sound/board/CPU, you can now afford a 9800 Pro to drop into your machine rather than a crappy 4600. You may have even saved enough to get a second monitor to hook into your system for some in-game strategerizing ....

Moral of the story: learn to spend wisely to maximise your performance.

[Aardil]

OK looked at the NF7-S
but I still question it, Isnt this the chip set that everyone was haveing problems with? I.E. wont boot because MB reports that the CPU temp is above limits.
I am also a bit confused with the SATA set up on the NF7-S, while A-bit does say it will do Raid +0 all the websites I have seen ( Newegg, Mwave, Axion Technologies) none say anything about being Raid capable, SATA yes but no mention of raid. Is there a Rev. that I will have to look for in order to get Raid +0?

Also on the Barton chip, only Newegg has anything called Barton,
If I undertsand correctly, any AMD processor above 2500 with 512 cache id a Barton or am I wrong again?

Thanks for your help
Aardil

[airspirit]

Rev2 has RAID. I have one. It can be configured in the BIOS in an independant program. It does work, and all Newegg boards are R2.

All chips with 512 cache are barton. Period. The speed doesn't matter. The 2500+ is a 166FSB Barton and the 3200+ is an identical chip with the FSB upped to 200. Same thing different name and cost.

[sevisehda]

If I'm not mistaken 2500s only come in the barton form. I'd also go with the NF7-S R2. With the AGP lock you can take the FSB nearly anywhere.

[Aardil]

Hello again,
To Airspirit, I see your logic and understand what you are saying.
I will be using the NF7-S board and the 2500 or 2600 ( depending on availability) Barton Chip.
I was digging around and I am looking for new water blocks, Cathar's Cascades ( from what I have read ) are top of the line but available only in Australia
I dont mind paying the higher dollar amount ( about 83 bucks US)
but I wonder about shipping, how long would it take to get to the states? 2 weeks? 2 months?
The maze 4 blocks are available here ( I know not quite as good ) but I like the hold down thing.
PLease also understand I am looking for good performace and some over clockability, Quiet is my real reason behind WC, I play D&D games on line, other than that a PC 133 could run fast enough to stay ahead of me in actual processing Oh and the Folding program GO PROCOOLING

I have a plan that would involve cooling on th CPU worked out, and am considering WC the Video ( yes a Pro 9800 is in the budget).
My question is this, think the maze bolck would be ok for the video? and how the heck do you get the old Heat sink and fan off the board with out braking the chip? I have heard you can put the board in a freezer for a couple hours but I am scared, 475 bucks for the card and my luck I wouldnt chip the chip, it would break the board in half.

Aardil

[AXDA2600DKV3D]

Originally posted by Aardil
and the 2500 or 2600 ( depending on availability) Barton Chip.


Aardil

you need to do some better research, there is no barton 2600, the 2600 is still tbred-b

bartons :
2500 512k (333fsb)
2800 512k (333fsb)
3000 512k (400fsb)
3200 512k (400fsb)

[Aardil]

AXDA2600KV3D.
point taken, 2500 Barton it is then.

Aardil

[AXDA2600DKV3D]

good choice, i believe those are running about $95 USD

[airspirit]

The maze would be fine for the video, but DO NOT BUY A MAZE4!!! For most setups, the Maze3 will outperform it every time and there are many other blocks that will outperform the Maze3.

As for the 9800 Pro, it uses the standard 57mm holes (IIRC) around the GPU, and you will need to follow this procedure before using the card. BEFORE, not after, or you will have a shit time trying to do it once the epoxy cures.

To remove the HSF, you pull the center pins from the top of the two retention posts. You'll know them when you see them. Once done, you pinch the nipples on the other side and remove them like any other retention post. To remove the HSF, unplug it and pull it off ... only frag tape is holding it on at this point and it will give no resistance. Since the card was never used, the tape will be easy to clean off the core.

To remove the shim, you want to put your card into a plastic ziploc bag and stick it in your freezer for an hour. This makes the epoxy more brittle. Remove the card and take an exacto knife and just barely lip the flat of the razor under the shim and pull (not lever) upwards. It will pop a few times before you make progress. Once you start lifting the shim up, it'll pretty much pop off safely from there. Oh, and as for the $475 part, don't get the 256MB chip ... it doesn't run any faster than the 128s and you can get the Powercoler version at CompUSA right now for $299 (yes, a 9800 PRO 128MB for $299). The safety of this operation is nearly foolproof. I wouldn't worry about your investment ... it is more dangerous to overclock than to remove this shim, IMHO.

I don't know the shipping times overseas, though if done through fedex global or something it shouldn't be too long ... on the order of a week or so. The costs to get it to you might be a bit, though.

Being in the US, I'd just get a 2500+ OEM and NF7-S from Newegg, though. You're guaranteed the latest revisions and stepping due to their volume. I won't recommend a retail block other than to NOT recommend the Maze4 ... the guys in the watercooling forum are more up to date on the latest and greatest retail blocks than I am. An alternative to the watercooling of your GPU can be found in my thread in the aircooling forum under the 1U experiment. With a temperature controlled quiet 60mm fan, it could be nearly inaudible to aircool your GPU adequately with a stock AMD HSF and you could simplify your watercooling loop.

[Aardil]

Just an update the Case is almost finished.
Waiting on Cascade blocks from Cathar
MB and Processor ordered
Shouldnt be long now will post pics eventually
Aardil

[Aardil]

Well I am pondering my hose block layout.
What I have in mind is 2 loops one for each PC, and they both share the same rez. Thats what I have worked out, now the new problem, I had originally planned for each loop to go from pump to splitter block, 3 lines comming out of splitter, one to each block , all lines are 1/2 inch. one line runs directly to each block, the outputs go back to another block, CPU is direct while the other 2 (GPU and Video) go through valves that I can throttle the flow rate down ( hopefully) giving the Cascade block enough to work correctly and still have enough left over to cool the GPU and Chipset.
After going through the return block then to Rad and back to rez.
My question is this..... Would I be better off to run direct to the cascade and then split to the GPU and chipset? Or just series all the blocks? or stay with the original configuration and run pump to splitter and then paralell to all 3 blocks?

My brain hurts:shrug:
Both brain cells are full

Aardil

[Zhentar]

my current systems is direct to the CPU since it needs the most cooling, and then splitting it to my different blocks. I have 3 blocks cooling various components and since all of them combined produce less heat than the CPU they don't need high flow rates.

[Aardil]

PUMPS ARE IN !!!!!
Now the fun begins

[Aardil]

This comming week is gonna be a blast, the final parts are arriving and I should have a few pics of this monster hopefully the week after that

[jaydee]

Be noted most of the Bartons are now Multi locked and not unlockable. So get the NS7 and hope for good FSB overclock if you get a locked one.

Multi lock issue: http://forum.oc-forums.com/vb/showth...hreadid=244237

Oh and the most certainly DO make a Barton 2600+.
http://www.amdboard.com/barton2600.html

2 seconds on google. You do better research AXDA2600DKV3D.

[Aardil]

If it wont O/C so be it, not that worried ( although it would be nice). 2500 is plenty fast for me. I W/C mainly for quiet not for speed. I am almost 100% sure it wont be Overcockable due to the fact it is comming from new egg and with thier high turn over, I would think they would be well past week 39 chips.

[pHaestus]

People were still getting older chips from them and not the locked ones last week I think.

[Aardil]

WOW,
I just looked back at what I posted this to be and almost everything has changed

Gamer is:
Barton 2500
NF7S Rev 2
using on board sound
ATI Pro 9800 Video 128mb ram
PC 400 ram (1 gig)
SATA-RAID +0 Seagates 80 Gigs (2)
Enermax EG465P-VE(FCA) power supply
1 floppy drive
1 plextor CD burner

Server is:
XP 2000
KX7-333r
Leadtek Gforce4 TI 4600 ultra with My VIVO
Hercules Gamer-X theatre
RAID +0 Seagates 40 Gigs (2)
Enermax EG465P-VE(FCA) power supply
1 floppy drive
1 plextor CD/DVD burner
1 acer cd rom

Cooling:
1 central resivor
Each PC has its own cooling loop and pump
Cooling loops contain
MCP 600 pump
Cascade Processor W/B
Swiftech MCW20-A chip set block
Swiftech MCW50 GPU
Black Ice extreme Rad

Cooling loop will go:
Res > Pump > Rad> Cascade> Y's> GPU and Chipset>direct back to Res

All of this is contained inside 1 home made PC case made of black plexiglass.
all Ide cables and floppy cables( with the exception of the sata cables) are silver braided round cables. the Sata cables are red.

The only thing left that I am considering is the Matrix orbital that
pH reviewed. I plan on purchasing one but ran out of cash ATM.


Hopefully I will have some pics soon.
Aardil

[Aardil]

pH,
Mine was ordered Tuesday but Credit card issue ( couldnt confirm my shipping address) and the bank holiday, delayed proccessing till thursday. Fed Ex says it will be here Monday. Guess we will see then wheather or not it can be O/Ced.

[pHaestus]

Well it can be overclocked to whatever fsb you can reach on your board. 200fsb should be no sweat, for instance.

[Aardil]

Um, if its locked then I cant change FBS, or am I wrong again?
and 200 FBS makes it think its a 3200 right?

[jaydee]

Originally posted by Aardil
Um, if its locked then I cant change FBS, or am I wrong again?
and 200 FBS makes it think its a 3200 right?

The MULIT is locked not the FSB. You can raise the FSB. The reason that board is recommended is because it has a PCI lock. So you can lock the FSB on the PCI slots, vid card, hard drives, and when you raise the FSB it only raises the CPU and memory FSB. You should still be able to get a decent OC.

[Aardil]

Barton chip and MB are in looks to be a week 41 chip so I would have to say its locked.
Time will tell though as I am not yet ready to fire it up.

Aardil

[Aardil]

Well gang this has been one tuff project for me,
I dont think it will win any beauty contests but it does suit my needs and that makes it good enough.
As of right this minute I am short 3 parts of being finished but its Santa Claus season so, it looks like I will have to wait till after the new year to finish up.
The good news is Santa is bringing my wife a Digital camera so at least when I do post pics they should be pretty clear.
I did several things on this project that I have never before attempted.
1. Hand build a pexiglass case.
I have built reserviors before and built the one for this system too, what made the case different is I wanted it to be fairly easy to take apart ( front and back are removeable along with the sides) the only stationary sides are the top and the bottom.
This ment that the bottom and top needed to extend a couple of inches onto the sides. After bending these pieces, the face and back dont quite fit as planed. They are close but not what I would call a finished project quality.
2. Cooling system, 3 blocks per PC and a Bix.
Not much tuff here, except it is my first try at cooling video and I used the method of making air ducts in #Rotor's article. Again Functional but not very pretty.
Initial expectations, I should have had plenty of room for a nice layout ( I still think its nice all things considered) but is a bit tighter than I thought.

When I post the pics it will all make better sense as to how and why it was done in this fashion.

Over all it has been a lesson I am glad I have learned but not sure I would do it again.
Aardil
If I could ever get my hands to build what my mind sees, the world would be perfect