Contest: Best waterblock hold down device will win a free 56watt pelt!

ondaedg · 01-07-2001, 04:32 AM

Ok guys, to the guy who provides me with the best idea for a waterblock hold down device for use on pent3/cel2 motherboards, I will award you a free 56 watt peltier. Even if the idea sounds nuts, submit it. This appears to be one of the toughest areas for watercooling and I think we can lick this problem if we have a little incentive =]
good Luck!

by the way, the contest ends Feb 9th. hope to see some good ideas!

------------------
ondaedg@procooling.com

[This message has been edited by ondaedg (edited 01-31-2001).]

Kevin · 01-07-2001, 04:47 AM

OnDaEdg, look for a review of mine coming up late this week / early next week for the ABSOLUTE best socket A clamp

.

mfpmax · 01-07-2001, 01:25 PM

my clamp rules! And I didn't even need to buy anything but wingnuts for it. The sites in my sig.

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Watercooled K6-2 450 at 600

Kevin · 01-07-2001, 03:35 PM

Yeah. That clamp works well. I checked the site. The one i'm reviewing though fits 99.9% of all the waterblocks in the market, and (believe it or not) looks really cool.

Quote:

Originally posted by mfpmax:
my clamp rules! And I didn't even need to buy anything but wingnuts for it. The sites in my sig.

ondaedg · 01-07-2001, 05:43 PM

mpfmax, I went to your webpage and did not see anything about your clamp. Do you have any better pics?

------------------
ondaedg@procooling.com

lisch · 01-07-2001, 11:31 PM

Kevin: care to tell us what the name of it is??

Kevin · 01-08-2001, 08:27 AM

Around friday when I review it

... Actually to be honest, I'm not sure if it has an OFFICIAL name yet... Hmmmm... better ask.

Quote:

Originally posted by lisch:
Kevin: care to tell us what the name of it is??

Highvoltagepc · 01-08-2001, 04:17 PM

hey kevin,lets call it the "KAMOKAZE" thats pretty fitting i think....

------------------
THUNDERBIRD 800@1010MHZ,WATERCOOLED
18 GIG SCSI,BLACK HX08 homepage www.highvoltagepc.com

mfpmax · 01-09-2001, 08:05 PM

You'd have to look REAL hard at my installed waterblock pictures to see my clamp. Its actually nothing. I got the design from some company's watercooling kit but built it out of a slot blade, some screw down wire retainer thingies, bolts, and some wing nuts.

Mine looks similar to this: http://www.geocities.com/mfpmax/coolmount.jpg

------------------
Watercooled K6-2 450 at 600

[This message has been edited by mfpmax (edited 01-11-2001).]

Icemanzero · 01-19-2001, 12:59 PM

The best looking and designed water-block I have seen has to be the MCW462 from swiftech. It uses the four holes around the socket for athy boards. Great Design!! Check it out tell me what you guys think. -swiftech.com

BillA · 01-19-2001, 04:37 PM

Just received a MCW462, very professionally done.

A bit of advice - get the cold plate also.
Its drilled and the waterblock baseplate is also drilled and blind tapped for socket head screws to clamp the TEC.

For TECs this seems the way to go.

be cool

[This message has been edited by BillA (edited 01-19-2001).]

H2gO Flasher · 01-20-2001, 04:25 PM

my personal fav mounting bracket is from www.coo-computers.com
two flavors - short & tall available
even if they are a bit on the pricey side
- would like to see a mod done on the screw devise with a foot flange.

but I do like the idea of center pressure over the cpu core

Alives · 01-29-2001, 05:32 PM

i kinda jigga-rigged mine. using an asus slotket, there are 4 holes near the edges. the clips on the slotket broke pretty easily so i decided to use the 4 holes with cableties...this thing is solid as a mother****er. run the cabletie through the holes and through your clip's hole...then tighten down and bend the clips so your screw for the waterblock is dead center above the processor.

ondaedg · 01-29-2001, 07:10 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Alives:
i kinda jigga-rigged mine. using an asus slotket, there are 4 holes near the edges. the clips on the slotket broke pretty easily so i decided to use the 4 holes with cableties...this thing is solid as a mother****er. run the cabletie through the holes and through your clip's hole...then tighten down and bend the clips so your screw for the waterblock is dead center above the processor.

you got any pics?

------------------
ondaedg@procooling.com

mfpmax · 01-29-2001, 09:20 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Alives:
i kinda jigga-rigged mine. using an asus slotket, there are 4 holes near the edges. the clips on the slotket broke pretty easily so i decided to use the 4 holes with cableties...this thing is solid as a mother****er. run the cabletie through the holes and through your clip's hole...then tighten down and bend the clips so your screw for the waterblock is dead center above the processor.

I was gonna do that but I was gonna make a large H shaped braket to use with the holes. I only use zip ties for fans now.

------------------
Watercooled K6-2 450 at 600

Alives · 01-29-2001, 10:23 PM

yeah yeah i know its sloppy, but you really cant trust those ridiculous clips on the slotket. I also tried to make a bracket for the back for reinforcement, but this slotket card doesnt even bend when i tighten it down. My old slot one card bends when i tighten the water block down on it though.

SYX · 01-30-2001, 02:51 PM

Best clamp ever. After getting and trying pos rubber oring with my aqua stealth I thought for a while. I had an Alpha PEP66 before this, so what I did is took pliers and stretched the elbows of the hold down clip a bit. Now this thing goes on water block on my FCPGA *MAD* solid. I mean I installed the radiator and resevoir and did all the moving with the water block staying and not moving a mm (I do have a shim on cpu so it's totally safe even if it moved). Oh and for the best part to take down the water block just hold by tubes and on the side of the clip there is like a moving part attached, the 2 wires go into it from 2 sides, just pull 1 wire out of the part and it just opens... It's sooo easy and solid.

You can buy the holding devices intended for Alphas at 2cooltek (http://2cooltek.safeshopper.com/1/66.htm?807). ondaedg if you are intrested e-mail me at syx66@home.com and I'll take some pictures tonight.

I really want the peltier too, want to make some experiments with it on watercooling.

Alives · 01-30-2001, 06:35 PM

Thats a great clamp, but its meant for holding heatsinks on. You are holding a peltier, cold plate, and waterblock on there now...and you have to hold them with suck force that they cannot move. I dont htink the current heatsink stuff has the capacity to hold this stuff on. I broke the plastic clip on my socket just installing my clip...thats ridiculous. Im not gonna trust that when im running a p3 800 at 1200 (if i can get it that high) with a flimsy clip. I want something that will hold so well that the processor card will break before it comes off. That said, here are some nasty drawings of what I did:

Hope that helps.

SYX · 01-30-2001, 07:45 PM

Weak clip? So what if it was designed for heatsinks... hell overclocks use old heatsinks to make water blocks (I'm making one now). And I did a lot of installing with waterblock not moving even a bit. You don't need so much pressure, just make sure you put the moving part at bottom then slightly push on top till it goes on, if it's too short means you didn't stretch elbows far enough. It's very simple because the clip is simple but it holds things very tight, if you have cold plate and peltier just stretch elbows more this will also stretch the whole thing so you reach the plastic thingies.

Just try it if you have FCPGA it's sooo awesome. I'm going to get a digital camera in 20 mins and make pics. BRB

ondaedg · 01-30-2001, 08:02 PM

very nice pics. no pics of the clamp? sorry but i am really curious :P

------------------
ondaedg@procooling.com

Alives · 01-30-2001, 11:11 PM

its the clamp that danger den uses

Alives · 01-30-2001, 11:13 PM

i mean the clamp is fine, but i dont trust the plastic clips on the socket...they suck...i broke mine and barely clamped it down...

SYX · 01-30-2001, 11:34 PM

lol if u putting so much strength on the plastic things ur obviously clueless... it just has to sit tight on the thing and not move but not be beaten with a hammer into the processor... waiting for my web server to go up so i can put up pics!

Alives · 01-31-2001, 12:15 AM

the tighter it is the better the heat will transfer between it...on a molecular level, metal bonds through its d-orbitals. You can take 2 lead weights and squeeze them together with your hands and they will stick to each other. This is because lead has huge atoms which are very "floppy" because they have lots of electrons in their d-orbitals. Heat will transfer through bonded metal much better than with thermal grease...my logic is to use as little grease as possible...

ondaedg · 01-31-2001, 01:25 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Alives:
the tighter it is the better the heat will transfer between it...on a molecular level, metal bonds through its d-orbitals. You can take 2 lead weights and squeeze them together with your hands and they will stick to each other. This is because lead has huge atoms which are very "floppy" because they have lots of electrons in their d-orbitals. Heat will transfer through bonded metal much better than with thermal grease...my logic is to use as little grease as possible...

alives, you are right in the fact that the tighter two objects are together, the better the heat transfer. However, you have limitations that you have to adhere to. First is the fact that you are not pushing two metals together but rather one part metal (waterblock) and one part ceramic/silicone (cpu slug). If you are breaking the clips off, then you are putting too much stress on the cpu anyways. And since there is only a certain amount of pressure you can use, then that is where the grease comes into play. In all actuality, you can throw a glob of grease in there, and when you apply the waterblock, the excess is squeezed out. The smoothness of the slug allows the excess to flow right out from between them. Too much pressure not good. Grease = unavoidable. =]

------------------
ondaedg@procooling.com

01-07-2001, 04:32 AM	#1
ondaedg Cooling Savant Join Date: Nov 2000 Posts: 130	Contest: Best waterblock hold down device will win a free 56watt pelt! Ok guys, to the guy who provides me with the best idea for a waterblock hold down device for use on pent3/cel2 motherboards, I will award you a free 56 watt peltier. Even if the idea sounds nuts, submit it. This appears to be one of the toughest areas for watercooling and I think we can lick this problem if we have a little incentive =] good Luck! by the way, the contest ends Feb 9th. hope to see some good ideas! ------------------ ondaedg@procooling.com [This message has been edited by ondaedg (edited 01-31-2001).]

01-07-2001, 04:47 AM	#2
Kevin Slacking more than your weird uncle Join Date: Nov 2000 Location: San Diego, CA (UCSD) / Los Angeles, CA (home) Posts: 1,605	OnDaEdg, look for a review of mine coming up late this week / early next week for the ABSOLUTE best socket A clamp .

01-07-2001, 01:25 PM	#3
mfpmax Cooling Savant Join Date: Oct 2000 Location: Rockledge,FL,US Posts: 731	my clamp rules! And I didn't even need to buy anything but wingnuts for it. The sites in my sig. ------------------ Watercooled K6-2 450 at 600

01-07-2001, 05:43 PM	#5
ondaedg Cooling Savant Join Date: Nov 2000 Posts: 130	mpfmax, I went to your webpage and did not see anything about your clamp. Do you have any better pics? ------------------ ondaedg@procooling.com

01-07-2001, 11:31 PM	#6
lisch Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Cleveland Ohio Posts: 22	Kevin: care to tell us what the name of it is??

01-08-2001, 04:17 PM	#8
Highvoltagepc Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Nov 2000 Location: USA Posts: 50	hey kevin,lets call it the "KAMOKAZE" thats pretty fitting i think.... ------------------ THUNDERBIRD 800@1010MHZ,WATERCOOLED 18 GIG SCSI,BLACK HX08 homepage www.highvoltagepc.com

01-09-2001, 08:05 PM	#9
mfpmax Cooling Savant Join Date: Oct 2000 Location: Rockledge,FL,US Posts: 731	You'd have to look REAL hard at my installed waterblock pictures to see my clamp. Its actually nothing. I got the design from some company's watercooling kit but built it out of a slot blade, some screw down wire retainer thingies, bolts, and some wing nuts. Mine looks similar to this: http://www.geocities.com/mfpmax/coolmount.jpg ------------------ Watercooled K6-2 450 at 600 [This message has been edited by mfpmax (edited 01-11-2001).]

01-19-2001, 12:59 PM	#10
Icemanzero Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Dallas, TX USA Posts: 15	The best looking and designed water-block I have seen has to be the MCW462 from swiftech. It uses the four holes around the socket for athy boards. Great Design!! Check it out tell me what you guys think. -swiftech.com

01-19-2001, 04:37 PM	#11
BillA CoolingWorks Tech Guy Formerly "Unregistered" Join Date: Dec 2000 Location: Posts: 2,371.493,106 Posts: 4,440	Just received a MCW462, very professionally done. A bit of advice - get the cold plate also. Its drilled and the waterblock baseplate is also drilled and blind tapped for socket head screws to clamp the TEC. For TECs this seems the way to go. be cool [This message has been edited by BillA (edited 01-19-2001).]

01-20-2001, 04:25 PM	#12
H2gO Flasher Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: New Zealand Posts: 12	my personal fav mounting bracket is from www.coo-computers.com two flavors - short & tall available even if they are a bit on the pricey side - would like to see a mod done on the screw devise with a foot flange. but I do like the idea of center pressure over the cpu core

01-29-2001, 05:32 PM	#13
Alives Cooling Savant Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Columbia, SC Posts: 228	i kinda jigga-rigged mine. using an asus slotket, there are 4 holes near the edges. the clips on the slotket broke pretty easily so i decided to use the 4 holes with cableties...this thing is solid as a mother****er. run the cabletie through the holes and through your clip's hole...then tighten down and bend the clips so your screw for the waterblock is dead center above the processor.

01-29-2001, 10:23 PM	#16
Alives Cooling Savant Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Columbia, SC Posts: 228	yeah yeah i know its sloppy, but you really cant trust those ridiculous clips on the slotket. I also tried to make a bracket for the back for reinforcement, but this slotket card doesnt even bend when i tighten it down. My old slot one card bends when i tighten the water block down on it though.

01-30-2001, 02:51 PM	#17
SYX Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Jan 2001 Posts: 35	Best clamp ever. After getting and trying pos rubber oring with my aqua stealth I thought for a while. I had an Alpha PEP66 before this, so what I did is took pliers and stretched the elbows of the hold down clip a bit. Now this thing goes on water block on my FCPGA MAD solid. I mean I installed the radiator and resevoir and did all the moving with the water block staying and not moving a mm (I do have a shim on cpu so it's totally safe even if it moved). Oh and for the best part to take down the water block just hold by tubes and on the side of the clip there is like a moving part attached, the 2 wires go into it from 2 sides, just pull 1 wire out of the part and it just opens... It's sooo easy and solid. You can buy the holding devices intended for Alphas at 2cooltek (http://2cooltek.safeshopper.com/1/66.htm?807). ondaedg if you are intrested e-mail me at syx66@home.com and I'll take some pictures tonight. I really want the peltier too, want to make some experiments with it on watercooling.

01-30-2001, 06:35 PM	#18
Alives Cooling Savant Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Columbia, SC Posts: 228	Thats a great clamp, but its meant for holding heatsinks on. You are holding a peltier, cold plate, and waterblock on there now...and you have to hold them with suck force that they cannot move. I dont htink the current heatsink stuff has the capacity to hold this stuff on. I broke the plastic clip on my socket just installing my clip...thats ridiculous. Im not gonna trust that when im running a p3 800 at 1200 (if i can get it that high) with a flimsy clip. I want something that will hold so well that the processor card will break before it comes off. That said, here are some nasty drawings of what I did: Hope that helps.

01-30-2001, 07:45 PM	#19
SYX Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Jan 2001 Posts: 35	Weak clip? So what if it was designed for heatsinks... hell overclocks use old heatsinks to make water blocks (I'm making one now). And I did a lot of installing with waterblock not moving even a bit. You don't need so much pressure, just make sure you put the moving part at bottom then slightly push on top till it goes on, if it's too short means you didn't stretch elbows far enough. It's very simple because the clip is simple but it holds things very tight, if you have cold plate and peltier just stretch elbows more this will also stretch the whole thing so you reach the plastic thingies. Just try it if you have FCPGA it's sooo awesome. I'm going to get a digital camera in 20 mins and make pics. BRB

01-30-2001, 08:02 PM	#20
ondaedg Cooling Savant Join Date: Nov 2000 Posts: 130	very nice pics. no pics of the clamp? sorry but i am really curious :P ------------------ ondaedg@procooling.com

01-30-2001, 11:11 PM	#21
Alives Cooling Savant Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Columbia, SC Posts: 228	its the clamp that danger den uses

01-30-2001, 11:13 PM	#22
Alives Cooling Savant Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Columbia, SC Posts: 228	i mean the clamp is fine, but i dont trust the plastic clips on the socket...they suck...i broke mine and barely clamped it down...

01-30-2001, 11:34 PM	#23
SYX Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Jan 2001 Posts: 35	lol if u putting so much strength on the plastic things ur obviously clueless... it just has to sit tight on the thing and not move but not be beaten with a hammer into the processor... waiting for my web server to go up so i can put up pics!

01-31-2001, 12:15 AM	#24
Alives Cooling Savant Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Columbia, SC Posts: 228	the tighter it is the better the heat will transfer between it...on a molecular level, metal bonds through its d-orbitals. You can take 2 lead weights and squeeze them together with your hands and they will stick to each other. This is because lead has huge atoms which are very "floppy" because they have lots of electrons in their d-orbitals. Heat will transfer through bonded metal much better than with thermal grease...my logic is to use as little grease as possible...

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