Where does the water go, in a closed loop system??

[ECUPirate]

I'm just guessing, but I'd say T-lines aren't worth a damn. In my system, when the pump is on, the bubbles became suspended in the solution... they went from being large air bubbles to very small bubbles that made the water look cloudy. When I let the system rest, they would settle out of solution in random places. With the pump on, and the air dissolved into the solution, a T-line is not going to be very effective. The bubbles would just be sucked past the tee.
At the top of my system, I made a resevoir out of 1" PVC pipe. (I wish I had a camera). I'm using 1/2 ID silicon tubing elsewhere. A given length of the 1/2" silicon would have about 1/4 the volume of the same length of 1" pipe. This gives the air a brief chance to settle. So, the water passes up into the res, and into the main chamber (a 1" Tee). In this area, I places a good bit of the blue filter that came with the Eheim pump. This serves to help filter out the bubbles as they pass through. Then, the water exits at the bottom. The exit is about 6" below the intake, giving ample time for the air to rise.
All told, my system took about 1.5-2 hrs to bleed.

[DodgeViper]

My system is free of air bubbles and the T line works in my system. Plus it aids in adding water.

[Kevin]

Originally posted by bmg
I find the cheap plastic cable ties work great. I usually put on 2 just to be safe.

While this won't matter much with silicone tubing, those cable ties definitely pinch a part of the hose and I have had a small leak a couple years ago when I first got into the H2O scene because of that.
-Kev

[Jim]

Originally posted by DodgeViper
I have the same problem. System keeps using water and can not find any water anywhere. I even ran the pump over night with no fans on and still can not understand where the water is going. I have had the rad out a number of times and everything is dry. The only thing I have not tried is replacing my screw on cap at the end of my T line. Maybe I am losing water due to evaporation. I have taken a tissue and checked every fitting.

DV-

I had a barb (brass) and a nice pretty brass threaded cap to fit on it at the end of my fill line too.

I was losing fluid so I replaced it with a plastic one piece plug and put the clamp thing on it, from Danger Den. (same clamp used on barb previously)

Now I am still losing fluid after almost one month with water cool. I think it bleeds through the silicon hose, cause I did the same thing as you checking with towels, tissue, fingers, etc.

I wish I had known about Tygon before I installed the water cooling.

On April 28th I will have a definite "volume" of total fluid lost since I filled it to the top on April 1. Last check was 1 teaspoon for about two weeks, roughly.

I also think the smell I was getting was from Water Wetter coming through the tubing (silicon). A tygon replacment will answer that question for me down the road.

Jim

[DodgeViper]

I am happy to say that my system is no longer losing water. On Friday I took the system completely apart. Check and recheck every fitting. Now here is where I do believe my problem had been. On my T line I had a plastic barb with a ¾” pipe thread. I used a plastic cap and always-just hand tighten the cap. Yes I used Teflon tape. At 6’-4” and 285 lbs. I can tighten stuff really well. On Saturday I decided to use two Channel Lock pliers and proceeded to bottom out the cap and I can gladly say I have not lost any water now in 16 hours. Before I would lose about a ½” of water in the T line and I could smell the Water Wetter in this time frame.

Glad I found this problem as I have a new Epox 8K3a+/Samsung Memory/XP-2000 on the way.

[Jim]

Originally posted by DodgeViper
I am happy to say that my system is no longer losing water. On Friday I took the system completely apart. Check and recheck every fitting. Now here is where I do believe my problem had been. On my T line I had a plastic barb with a ¾” pipe thread. I used a plastic cap and always-just hand tighten the cap. Yes I used Teflon tape. At 6’-4” and 285 lbs. I can tighten stuff really well. On Saturday I decided to use two Channel Lock pliers and proceeded to bottom out the cap and I can gladly say I have not lost any water now in 16 hours. Before I would lose about a ½” of water in the T line and I could smell the Water Wetter in this time frame.

Glad I found this problem as I have a new Epox 8K3a+/Samsung Memory/XP-2000 on the way.

Interesting. Then maybe these plastic Danger Den (don't know the specific name of these clmaps) are not adequate. Did you mention where I can get the tool installed type band clamps you are using?
Jim

[DodgeViper]

Hi Jim, here is a photo of my kit. I bet if you were to purchase a tool for nipping tile it would do the same thing. Even Klein Tools has something that looks like this. You being a contractor you know of Klein Tools.

The tool opens evenly across the blade. All it does is press the clamp together. You cannot use side cutters or lineman’s because they do not open evenly

[DodgeViper]

Jim, when I had the system down I decided to install a solid-state relay to turn on and off the pump. I came across 24 of these relays and they are small and all are single pole. I placed them for sale in the appropriate forum at this site.

[Jim]

DV-\
Yeah, those are "end cutting" pliers got 'em! Where can I get those clamps?
Jim
P.S. I saw those relays on amdmb, good deal in my opinion.

[DodgeViper]

Our local Ace Hardware has them. The kit came from McMaster Carr.

Considering that these relays are about $35.00 ea. new and they have very little time on them. I just do not need all of them. At $10.00 ea. plus shipping they are a good buy.

Just checked my water has continued to stay at the line I had placed on the tubing.