"Radius" by BigBen2k - Page 19

bigben2k · 03-31-2003, 04:40 PM

Here's the nozzle curvature detailed info:

jaydee · 03-31-2003, 09:17 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by bigben2k
Here's the nozzle curvature detailed info:

I couldn't make that nozzel with the equipment I have.

bigben2k · 03-31-2003, 10:01 PM

Oh, that's right, you have a CNC, not a turning lathe! Well, I could always sand/carve that curve, then glue in the channel seperators.:shrug:

jaydee · 03-31-2003, 11:00 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by bigben2k
Oh, that's right, you have a CNC, not a turning lathe! Well, I could always sand/carve that curve, then glue in the channel seperators.:shrug:

Well you can also use a edger but they are not cheap. Fixittt has the same capabilities I have. The stufff I have ar work isn't going to be much help here either. I would say get some fine dremel bits and carve out the nozzel with it. :shrug:

bigben2k · 04-01-2003, 08:16 AM

Sounds like a plan!

utabintarbo · 04-01-2003, 05:37 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by jaydee116
Well you can also use a edger but they are not cheap. Fixittt has the same capabilities I have. The stufff I have ar work isn't going to be much help here either. I would say get some fine dremel bits and carve out the nozzel with it. :shrug:

What about:

1. an appropriately shaped router bit

2. Hell, just CNC it. I can supply the G-code etc. after the 15th.

I will be working on the SW file as time permits. Big-time deadlines ahead!

Bob

jaydee · 04-01-2003, 06:04 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by utabintarbo
[b]What about:

1. an appropriately shaped router bit

Thats what I ment by edger. But those are like $50.

Quote:

2. Hell, just CNC it. I can supply the G-code etc. after the 15th.

Unless that bit is used I don't see how a 3 axis mill can make that curve. But I never tried before either. My mill does not support alot of regular G-Code the bigger mills do. It has a DXF converter in it's software that convers it to G code the mill will support. Anyway if it is going to be milled send it to Fixittt. Just aswell have him do it all.

bigben2k · 04-01-2003, 08:59 PM

Forget the edger! If Fixittt is still willing to mill the first block, I don't expect the next ones to be free!

I wonder where he's hiding...

bigben2k · 04-04-2003, 11:21 AM

Fixittt's not answering my PMs or e-mails. Is he dropping out?:shrug:

edit: got a reply! He's going to look into the endmills, when he has time.

bigben2k · 04-09-2003, 03:10 PM

The remaining parts are on order with McMaster, otherwise, I picked up the mounting hardware yesterday.

Here's the latest render, by Utabintarbo. (Thanks again Bob!)

(ref: 23404)

jaydee · 04-09-2003, 04:32 PM

Remind me again why the bottom peice is not just solid and has those outrigger looking things milled into it?

bigben2k · 04-09-2003, 04:35 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by jaydee116
Remind me again why the bottom peice is not just solid and has those outrigger looking things milled into it?

Because according to AMD specs, the clamping pressure is supposed to be applied longitudinally over the core

jaydee · 04-09-2003, 05:43 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by bigben2k
Because according to AMD specs, the clamping pressure is supposed to be applied longitudinally over the core

Makes sence!

hara · 04-11-2003, 10:07 AM

I'm sure it has been debated before, but, I don't think you need 8 hex nuts to seal that block. 4 screws (with washers) would be enough if the acrylic where you're clamping is at least 6mm thick.

Just an opinion

bigben2k · 04-11-2003, 10:25 AM

Actually, it's going to be 1/2".

There are some sealing issues with only four bolts, and as Paul Vodroska pointed out (see earlier in the thread), 6 bolts is preferable, for uniform pressure.

Since 6 bolts can't be accomodated in this design, I had to go to 8.

utabintarbo · 04-11-2003, 01:57 PM

Besides, 8 just looks cooler!

MadDogMe · 04-12-2003, 03:31 AM

Is'nt that 'lateral pressure' spec just a hangup from using the socket lugs that oppose each other across the core that way?. Pressure is pressure as long as it's uniform on the four corners(and the plate is thich enough to not deform) cutting slits won't make a difference will it?...

bigben2k · 04-12-2003, 07:27 AM

Everything deforms, but to what magnitude, I don't know. It's probably in microns.

A 4 bolt mount should have a slighter bowing effect, leaving a microscopic gap right over the middle of the core, and pressing against the core's corners. IMO, bad!

So the cutouts ensure that if there's any bowing, the block will press on the opposite edges of the core, leaving a gap across the entire middle/center. Better support, sacrificing a good gap to protect the core.

bigben2k · 04-15-2003, 12:40 PM

A bit of progress:

I'm currently negotiating with FakeSnake, the making of Radius. His dad's been working in a machine shop for 7 years. He's got access to CNC and EDM, but I think we'll go with CNC.

I received the last of the parts from McMaster. One last order for clear polycarbonate glue, the endmills, and I'll have everything.

Utabintarbo gets a block too, for his tremendous contribution! Thanks Bob!

bigben2k · 04-15-2003, 04:45 PM

IPS Weld-On #4, a 4 oz. can, ordered. $5.00 + $7.50 shipping (Hazmat).

details

(ref 24227)

jaydee · 04-15-2003, 05:17 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by bigben2k
IPS Weld-On #4, a 4 oz. can, ordered. $5.00 + $7.50 shipping (Hazmat).

details

(ref 24227)

What was that #4 for????

bigben2k · 04-15-2003, 05:32 PM

Oh yes!

Since the minimum order for 1/2" thick polycarbonate at McMaster was a 12" by 12" sheet, and it cost $17, I opted to get 2 sample sheets of 1/4" by 6" by 6" ($1.99 ea.), and glue them together.

Since my Devcon plastic Welder is cream colored, it would nullify the clear effect.

So I'm going with IPS Weld-On #4. It also contains Methylene Chloride (VERY NASTY!), which I can then use to seal the cracks in the drilled holes.

Voila!

jaydee · 04-15-2003, 06:18 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by bigben2k
Oh yes!

Since the minimum order for 1/2" thick polycarbonate at McMaster was a 12" by 12" sheet, and it cost $17, I opted to get 2 sample sheets of 1/4" by 6" by 6" ($1.99 ea.), and glue them together.

Since my Devcon plastic Welder is cream colored, it would nullify the clear effect.

So I'm going with IPS Weld-On #4. It also contains Methylene Chloride (VERY NASTY!), which I can then use to seal the cracks in the drilled holes.

Voila!

I use the stuff all the time at work. Have about 1/2 thing of the 4oz can left. Make sure you clmap the hell out of it when you put the peices together. I tried using it for a res and it failed miserably because I couldn't clamp it right. The stuff is just like water consistancy wise to make sure you don't get any on the parts you don't want to turn blury.

Also I thought that stuff was for acrylic only?

bigben2k · 04-15-2003, 06:27 PM

Thanks for the tip!

I was thinking about putting a weight on it.

Otherwise, the polycarb sheets have a plastic film on each face, so I'll leave that on.

It's great for acrylic I'm sure but check it out

Quote:

Also bonds styrene, butyrate, PETG, and polycarbonate to themselves.

I was tipped of by blackeagle here

jaydee · 04-15-2003, 07:03 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by bigben2k
Thanks for the tip!

I was thinking about putting a weight on it.

Otherwise, the polycarb sheets have a plastic film on each face, so I'll leave that on.

It's great for acrylic I'm sure but check it out

I was tipped of by blackeagle here

Cool. The studd is pretty good. If applied right the material will break before the joint will. We use it to put acrylic bases on the acrylic plaques we laser engrave. #16 is thicker and is what I would use for resivors but it is near impossible to get any as no one will ship it to WA because of the hazordous matarials BS.

03-31-2003, 10:01 PM	#453
bigben2k Responsible for 2% of all the posts here. Join Date: May 2002 Location: Texas, U.S.A. Posts: 8,302	Oh, that's right, you have a CNC, not a turning lathe! Well, I could always sand/carve that curve, then glue in the channel seperators.:shrug: __________________ WBTA (Water Block Testing Alliance) Nordic Hardware WC 101

04-01-2003, 08:16 AM	#455
bigben2k Responsible for 2% of all the posts here. Join Date: May 2002 Location: Texas, U.S.A. Posts: 8,302	Sounds like a plan! __________________ WBTA (Water Block Testing Alliance) Nordic Hardware WC 101

04-01-2003, 08:59 PM	#458
bigben2k Responsible for 2% of all the posts here. Join Date: May 2002 Location: Texas, U.S.A. Posts: 8,302	Forget the edger! If Fixittt is still willing to mill the first block, I don't expect the next ones to be free! I wonder where he's hiding... __________________ WBTA (Water Block Testing Alliance) Nordic Hardware WC 101

04-04-2003, 11:21 AM	#459
bigben2k Responsible for 2% of all the posts here. Join Date: May 2002 Location: Texas, U.S.A. Posts: 8,302	Fixittt's not answering my PMs or e-mails. Is he dropping out?:shrug: edit: got a reply! He's going to look into the endmills, when he has time. __________________ WBTA (Water Block Testing Alliance) Nordic Hardware WC 101

04-11-2003, 10:07 AM	#464
hara Cooling Savant Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Malta, Mediterranean Posts: 662	I'm sure it has been debated before, but, I don't think you need 8 hex nuts to seal that block. 4 screws (with washers) would be enough if the acrylic where you're clamping is at least 6mm thick. Just an opinion __________________ - Every great HD crash day is the day before back-up day. - My Past System - "Better to reign in Hell than serve in Heaven." - Milton, Paradise Lost. - FMZ

04-09-2003, 04:32 PM	#461
jaydee Put up or Shut Up Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Spokane WA Posts: 6,506	Remind me again why the bottom peice is not just solid and has those outrigger looking things milled into it?

04-11-2003, 10:25 AM	#465
bigben2k Responsible for 2% of all the posts here. Join Date: May 2002 Location: Texas, U.S.A. Posts: 8,302	Actually, it's going to be 1/2". There are some sealing issues with only four bolts, and as Paul Vodroska pointed out (see earlier in the thread), 6 bolts is preferable, for uniform pressure. Since 6 bolts can't be accomodated in this design, I had to go to 8.

04-11-2003, 01:57 PM	#466
utabintarbo Cooling Savant Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: Sterling Hts., MI Posts: 496	Besides, 8 just looks cooler! __________________ Sarcasm is yet another of the free services we offer!

04-12-2003, 03:31 AM	#467
MadDogMe Thermophile Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Just shut up ;) ... Posts: 1,068	Is'nt that 'lateral pressure' spec just a hangup from using the socket lugs that oppose each other across the core that way?. Pressure is pressure as long as it's uniform on the four corners(and the plate is thich enough to not deform) cutting slits won't make a difference will it?...

04-12-2003, 07:27 AM	#468
bigben2k Responsible for 2% of all the posts here. Join Date: May 2002 Location: Texas, U.S.A. Posts: 8,302	Everything deforms, but to what magnitude, I don't know. It's probably in microns. A 4 bolt mount should have a slighter bowing effect, leaving a microscopic gap right over the middle of the core, and pressing against the core's corners. IMO, bad! So the cutouts ensure that if there's any bowing, the block will press on the opposite edges of the core, leaving a gap across the entire middle/center. Better support, sacrificing a good gap to protect the core. __________________ WBTA (Water Block Testing Alliance) Nordic Hardware WC 101

04-15-2003, 12:40 PM	#469
bigben2k Responsible for 2% of all the posts here. Join Date: May 2002 Location: Texas, U.S.A. Posts: 8,302	A bit of progress: I'm currently negotiating with FakeSnake, the making of Radius. His dad's been working in a machine shop for 7 years. He's got access to CNC and EDM, but I think we'll go with CNC. I received the last of the parts from McMaster. One last order for clear polycarbonate glue, the endmills, and I'll have everything. Utabintarbo gets a block too, for his tremendous contribution! Thanks Bob! __________________ WBTA (Water Block Testing Alliance) Nordic Hardware WC 101

04-15-2003, 04:45 PM	#470
bigben2k Responsible for 2% of all the posts here. Join Date: May 2002 Location: Texas, U.S.A. Posts: 8,302	IPS Weld-On #4, a 4 oz. can, ordered. $5.00 + $7.50 shipping (Hazmat). details (ref 24227) __________________ WBTA (Water Block Testing Alliance) Nordic Hardware WC 101

04-15-2003, 05:32 PM	#472
bigben2k Responsible for 2% of all the posts here. Join Date: May 2002 Location: Texas, U.S.A. Posts: 8,302	Oh yes! Since the minimum order for 1/2" thick polycarbonate at McMaster was a 12" by 12" sheet, and it cost $17, I opted to get 2 sample sheets of 1/4" by 6" by 6" ($1.99 ea.), and glue them together. Since my Devcon plastic Welder is cream colored, it would nullify the clear effect. So I'm going with IPS Weld-On #4. It also contains Methylene Chloride (VERY NASTY!), which I can then use to seal the cracks in the drilled holes. Voila! __________________ WBTA (Water Block Testing Alliance) Nordic Hardware WC 101

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