"Radius" by BigBen2k

[bigben2k]

K... I had to read that twice to understand it, studly

[Phuzun]

I was just glancing through, and the inlet outlet ideas caught my eye. Sorry for not reading it all the way yet, but Couldnt you take something like this, and put seperate inlet outlet noozles on it to get the circle idea to work. You might need a total of 3 plates of copper in there for the block.

Grr dont know how to get a link to work, but its one of the "top plates with the screw holes" from bigbens post on page 18.

Not sure if that was your idea or not. IE the hole for the inlet just passes through onto the base plate, and the circlular outlets connect onto one outlet.

Looks like a great idea though so far. I've noticed Blocks are now going towards the inlet in the center, with small fins in a circular design outwards towards the outlets now. Was more of the spiral designs not to long ago.

[hara]

BigBen, do you realistically predict radius to be a white water killer?

[GTA]

Any ideas on when we're gonna see a prototype of this?

Its got huge potential

[utabintarbo]

Bump for an update (and because I want it on the front page). Progress?

[bigben2k]

Phuzun: I don't quite get what you mean.

Hara: I don't know, but I'll certainly try. I don't have the knowledge, nor the tools to accurately optimize the design, so I'll do it the old fashion way: make multiple iterations and/or mods.

GTA: I'm still negotiating with FakeSnake for a build, but I've also asked JayDee116 if he was interested. Maybe I just burned my bridges here :shrug:

Utabintarbo: The only progress I can't report (but will anyways) is that I was successful in calculating the pressure drop for LiquidRulez's top secret block. Since I can do it for him, it means I can also do it for myself . I have yet to run the flow test, by drilling 4 * 1/16 holes in a cap, and seeing how the pump will behave. Since I now have a flowmeter, I'll be able to get a (relatively) accurate reading, except for the pressure drop of the meter itself which is still unknown, because the flowmeter manufacturer has yet to provide me with the pressure drop curve

I haven't spent any time finishing the res (for the block), but the new/revised airtrap is almost complete. I'll be able to test that, hopefully this weekend.

On related topics, also under construction are:


the HDD block

the (revised) airtrap

the PSU array

Also, I received the sample of Silkolene ProCCA, thanks to Bruce, from www.CoolTechnica.com, one of our sponsors. (Thanks Bruce!)

I also ordered the heatercore, #2-304. Pic can be found in here.

Some location/mount details can be found in this thread.

flowmeter details

[Zymrgy]

originally posted by jaydee, speaking of the nozzle
Unless that bit is used I don't see how a 3 axis mill can make that curve. But I never tried before either. My mill does not support alot of regular G-Code the bigger mills do. It has a DXF converter in it's software that convers it to G code the mill will support. Anyway if it is going to be milled send it to Fixittt. Just aswell have him do it all.

Yes, it is possable on a 3 axis mill. 1...the easiest is with a form cutter..a radius tool. The other way is a bit tougher but if you have a ball-nosed endmill then you can do it with existing equiptment. What you do is litterally "generate" the radis in, by using the ball em to go around in a circle at a certain depth, then step in ( or out ) & move your Z axis down ( or up ). After about 100 passes, you are done. Tends to make lengthy programs, but if you need it/are interested, PM me.

[utabintarbo]

Originally posted by Zymrgy
Yes, it is possable on a 3 axis mill. 1...the easiest is with a form cutter..a radius tool. The other way is a bit tougher but if you have a ball-nosed endmill then you can do it with existing equiptment. What you do is litterally "generate" the radis in, by using the ball em to go around in a circle at a certain depth, then step in ( or out ) & move your Z axis down ( or up ). After about 100 passes, you are done. Tends to make lengthy programs, but if you need it/are interested, PM me.

Or, just for fun, you could generate it as 1 continuous spiral from top to bottom using a ballnose. I think I might want to try that...

Bob

[Zymrgy]

originally posted by utabintarbo
Or, just for fun, you could generate it as 1 continuous spiral from top to bottom using a ballnose. I think I might want to try that...

bahhh...I got too much time on my hands

That is very close to what the final toolpath would look like.

[utabintarbo]

Originally posted by Zymrgy
...

That is very close to what the final toolpath would look like.

Very nice. What software did you use?

Fellow CAD/CNC geek,
Bob

[Zymrgy]

originally posted by utabintarbo
What software did you use?

We got Mastercam V9.1 at work, its the best for toolpaths. I prefer to model things up in CadKey though.

[Celestial_fury]

I have been wading thru the entirity of this thread for about 2 days solid, following all links too

I just have to say - AWESOME work guys.
Just one thing to contribute regarding the air trap mechanism.

Why?

Would this way not be easier using a standard reservoir??

Excuse my poor PSP skills.





Keep up the good work
Flymo

[bigben2k]

Welcome to ProCooling!

Did you miss a page?

There is a res, but not like what you've drawn up. There is also a seperate airtrap, which is also linked (oh my, what patience you have!)

Your idea is good, but there's a serious space constraint, where the width of the case is only 8 inches (typical?).

I may very well go that way later, but for now, it's good enough (as Bill would say).

I'd love to simplify the current res design, but it would involve working with raw materials, instead of existing PVC fittings, which are actually a charm to work with, but I just don't have all my tools together (cousin: where's my Dremel?!? Dad, I need that scroll saw and sander!!!).

Right now, I'm concentrating on the PSU array, sorry. I started in a new job today, and got a new PC all to myself , so SW2K3 is going up very shortly.

I also might add a smoother exit to the fin pattern, just like I've been recommending to all the new blocks that called for it.

Ya'll check out Zymrgy's design, here: it's the best I've seen in a long time.

[utabintarbo]

Bump for an update!

Any progress on mfg.?

[utabintarbo]

Bump for an update!

Any progress on mfg.?


Edit: I don't know how THAT happened!

[bigben2k]

Sorry, no.

I'm concentrating on getting income right now

Just had an interview at the local hospital, which just expanded with a 7 story high building. They'll need me and my IT skills, but only in three weeks.

Otherwise I've got dibs on some contract work, assisting a project manager, in two weeks.

Fakesnake disappeared, or is busy on extensive house renovations. In the mean time, I'm helping NordicHardware round up a bunch of waterblocks. I think I'll go with JayDee116, for the making. I've got the copper, sitting right here, but I still have to order the endmills.


I'm thinking about boosting the flow rate, using both my Little Giant 2-MDQ-SC, and my new Johnson pump. If it works well, I might swap the LG for another Johnson pump, and keep it all compact.

I have the Silkolene, thanks to Bruce from www.cooltechnica.com .

www.leakycar.com is trying to source a blower that'll fit in my case. I requested something that's up to 8 inches in diameter, and no more than 8 inches thick.

So if I boost the flow rate, I'll definitely have to get another heatercore, and run both in parallel, since I'd be reaching a point where the flow rate is detrimental to their performance. It'll all be shrouded using a custom made fiberglass and resin housing.

Otherwise, I'm still waiting on Yo_Duh's idea for securing the PSUs from feedback, in the array.

I'm still trying to work out the inlet/outlet, for the HDD block.


Oh, did I mention the wife and I are buying a house?!?

[jaydee]

Originally posted by bigben2k

I think I'll go with JayDee116, for the making. I've got the copper, sitting right here, but I still have to order the endmills.

I am trying to figure out how to make a tool path .dxf my mill will except. Once that is done it should be just a matter of tuning the feed rates. I have to make 3 different .dxf's. One for the O ring groove, one for the outer circular channel and one for the mini channels. My mill doesn't seem except tool stops.

[flyingass]

johnson pumps, eh?

i'll shortly be using the CM30 i found at a local surplus house.


3.5m head is really nice for its compact size, but it's a little on the noisy side. Kind of a high pitched whine. I'm also a little concerned about RF noise the brushes might introduce into the system through the 12v line.

But you didn't say what model you're using, so this could all be rather irrelevant. Care to elaborate?

[The Droog]

Hello guys Noob here hehe <--- to the forum at least

First let me say that I'm really impressed by the technical Knowledge in the room. I didn't think anyone took cooling as seriously as I do. I'm tired of seeing all these UGLY! homemade WBs out of tin cans and shite. To the point I've looked at some of your threads and like what I see. I really like the one hose idea in this thread and plan on using it on my first water cooling project. As for the WB I'll be using.. I haven't made it yet but the idea is growing. Here is where I'll need some technical advice, and a tap into the maximum tolerances of copper.

For now I'll just ask what is the thinnest fin that can hold up to the turbulance created by the average water cooling pump without breaking or bending too much?

I have a lead on a laser engraving machine(I think i can get some free time ) I was told it wont be easy but copper CAN be cut with it (untested as of yet)

I think you have an idea of where I'm goin here Micro fin WB the best of both worlds

Thanx for hearing me!

[hara]

I think that wouldn't be a problem since the flow would be parallel to the fins. I'd say up to 0.3mm would be feasible.
No point in going smaller than 0.5mm fins i'd say though.

[jaydee]

Originally posted by The Droog


I have a lead on a laser engraving machine(I think i can get some free time ) I was told it wont be easy but copper CAN be cut with it (untested as of yet)

I run a laser engraver at work. It is 80watt with a 100watt tube and it will not even scratch the surface on any metal. You will need around 500+watts to remove metal I would think. If you have access to a laser that can do that then let us know. That is certainly a option I have been considering in mass producing blocks but I can't find anyone locally with a laser strong enough to remove copper. This would be ideal for making Bens Radius!

[hara]

Ben, why don't you go to an experienced professional machinist with a Big Ass 3 axis cnc? Given enough rpm, 4mm coated carbide cutters, injected coolant and the right feed rates your radius could be milled in minutes. Really.

Everything has a price though.

[bigben2k]

Originally posted by hara
...Everything has a price though.

That's the problem!

[jaydee]

Originally posted by bigben2k
That's the problem!

I am not saying I don't want to attemp to make your block, but it may be worth getting Zymrgy to try and make it. He seems to have forgotten more about milling than I will probably ever know and he might have access to a mill that make your block as perfect as it can be. Or maybe he can take your design and make the tool path dxf's? I am having no luck at that. I need a tool path dxf for the O ring groove, the outer circle, the inner channels AND the outriggers. It can be in one drawing as long as it is a ACAD style .dxf that I can edit. I can't do anything with that that solids works file as I can't get it into .dxf form.

[jaydee]

Scratch my last post. The drawings are in .dxf form (thanks to Zymrgy) and seems to be editable in ACAD. I finally got a top view so drawing the tool paths should be easy. I got a simulation program with my mill which shows a preview of what ever it is cutting as it would be happening on the mill so I should be able to get it all setup by the time i get the mill itself set back up. Only issue I may have is lack of RPM. My mill tops out at 2,800RPM so I will have to severly drop the feed rate. I hope I can get it to run slow enough. If not i will buy the 10,000RPM pully from Sherline that is made for the mill.