Ways to insulate block

myepoxdied · 10-09-2002, 05:35 PM

I have a Swiftech MCW462-UHT that I am running chilled water with (about -6f) and I need to find a way to better insulate my block. Even with it wrapped in neoprene, the water still soaks the neoprene, and i'm afraid it will eventually start dripping onto my motherboard. Any ideas? It cant be too thick because of the capcitors that are right next to the socket.

wymjym · 10-09-2002, 07:51 PM

If you coat the block with plastic dip, several coats and then apply some neoprene you will be pleasantly surprised.
wj

myepoxdied · 10-09-2002, 08:11 PM

What exactly is plastic dip?

myepoxdied · 10-10-2002, 04:31 PM

Any other suggestions?

bigben2k · 10-10-2002, 04:42 PM

Plastic dip is the can of stuff that you dip your tools into. It leaves a thick rubber coating.

myepoxdied · 10-10-2002, 06:49 PM

Do you think it would be safe to dip a maze 3-1 into it and just trim it off of the bottom, and put neoprene all over the sides? woulud cause any problems?

myepoxdied · 10-10-2002, 09:58 PM

One of the main problems i am having is fitting a block on there, how well do you think an insulated maze 3 would fit on this? http://www.epox.nl/images/motherboard/8k3a.gif

Notice the capacitors all around the left side of the socket. BTW, where can you buy plastic dip? and how would you suggest attatching the neoprene to it?

bigben2k · 10-10-2002, 10:06 PM

The dip should be available from a hardware store.

I'd dip the sides of the block only. You might try sticking the neoprene on the dip, while it's still wet. Otherwise, the neoprene can be stuck pretty much any way.

wymjym · 10-11-2002, 06:26 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by myepoxdied
Do you think it would be safe to dip a maze 3-1 into it and just trim it off of the bottom, and put neoprene all over the sides? woulud cause any problems?

that is exactly what I would do, except I would cutout an area a little large than the cpu contact point and leave the rest of the bottom coated.
The neoprene can then be glued to any areas that have enough clearance to allow that.
You can apply multiple layers (dips) of this material and it will increase the insulating factor.
wj

myepoxdied · 10-11-2002, 06:32 AM

What should i do about the top bigben2k, it has the same problem there too.

bigben2k · 10-11-2002, 08:55 AM

Doesn't Swiftech have an insulation article on their website? Let me see if I can find that link...

Anyways, the purpose of all this, if you keep it in mind, is to prevent the ambient air from contacting the block. In other words, your objective is to completely seal the block.

myepoxdied · 10-11-2002, 11:12 AM

I know what your saying, but the problem im having is not socket condensation, it is water condenstion on the very top of the block where the fittings go in and generally on top. The water is so cold that it condenses everywhere that's not insulated.

bigben2k · 10-11-2002, 11:27 AM

You could try sticking neoprene to cover the top, and using neoprene wrapped around the barbs (with hose mounted). Seal the two neoprene pieces with silicone. Insulate the hoses with that stuff... the insulation for hot water pipes.

Or even simpler, use that pipe insulation all the way down the tube, and seal that with silicone to the top of the neoprene piece.

myepoxdied · 10-11-2002, 11:56 AM

Would it be safe to use the dip on the top too? I have neoprene on the top now, and the condensation seeps through, on my lines i have ac insulation, which works great.

bigben2k · 10-11-2002, 12:35 PM

It seeps through?

Ok, let me recap for a sec, for everyone's benefit...

The purpose of insulating, is to prevent the ambient air from hitting the cold surface of the block. That being said, the insulating material itself has to prevent the cold from seeping through itself, otherwise, condensation will apear on the insulating material.

I'd do the dip thing, with neoprene, and add silicone sealant between the neoprene top, and the AC line insulation.

myepoxdied · 10-11-2002, 03:35 PM

To make sure i'm getting this right. The insulation will be done on a maze 3-1, should i just coat the whole thing in dip, and cut off the bottom portion? Will it have any adverse affects?

bigben2k · 10-11-2002, 03:50 PM

I'd try to avoid putting the dip on the bottom, but that's just because I'm wary about putting anything but AS3.

Yeah, that should work. Make sure you mask off the barbs, or better yet, replace them temporarily with plugs. 1/2 NPT PVC, available at any good hardware store, for pennies (I've got one!).

myepoxdied · 10-11-2002, 03:51 PM

Thx alot for the help

, now to find a pump that will pump the slush for my coolant

wymjym · 10-12-2002, 06:33 PM

The dip will peel right off if you work it, so you can dip the whole thing and then cut out a square where the die fits..peel the dip off and apply your thermal compound.
I would tape off the barbed portion of your fittings and dip the whole thing several times...remove the tape and your are well on your way to insulating that bad boy.
wj

MadDogMe · 10-13-2002, 05:48 AM

I'd just use Neoprene myself, unless the 'dip' can be removed completly if required. did you know you can get neoprene tape?. for sealing/wrapping around the barbs, and keeping neoprene sheet in place...

I don't know where to buy(I live UK) but I'd think Diving shops would sell it for repairs to wet suits...

wymjym · 10-13-2002, 11:06 AM

you can remove the dip entirely, just peal it off.
wj

10-09-2002, 05:35 PM	#1
myepoxdied Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Apr 2002 Posts: 19	Ways to insulate block I have a Swiftech MCW462-UHT that I am running chilled water with (about -6f) and I need to find a way to better insulate my block. Even with it wrapped in neoprene, the water still soaks the neoprene, and i'm afraid it will eventually start dripping onto my motherboard. Any ideas? It cant be too thick because of the capcitors that are right next to the socket.

10-10-2002, 04:42 PM	#5
bigben2k Responsible for 2% of all the posts here. Join Date: May 2002 Location: Texas, U.S.A. Posts: 8,302	Plastic dip is the can of stuff that you dip your tools into. It leaves a thick rubber coating. __________________ WBTA (Water Block Testing Alliance) Nordic Hardware WC 101

10-10-2002, 10:06 PM	#8
bigben2k Responsible for 2% of all the posts here. Join Date: May 2002 Location: Texas, U.S.A. Posts: 8,302	The dip should be available from a hardware store. I'd dip the sides of the block only. You might try sticking the neoprene on the dip, while it's still wet. Otherwise, the neoprene can be stuck pretty much any way. __________________ WBTA (Water Block Testing Alliance) Nordic Hardware WC 101

10-11-2002, 08:55 AM	#11
bigben2k Responsible for 2% of all the posts here. Join Date: May 2002 Location: Texas, U.S.A. Posts: 8,302	Doesn't Swiftech have an insulation article on their website? Let me see if I can find that link... Anyways, the purpose of all this, if you keep it in mind, is to prevent the ambient air from contacting the block. In other words, your objective is to completely seal the block. __________________ WBTA (Water Block Testing Alliance) Nordic Hardware WC 101

10-11-2002, 11:27 AM	#13
bigben2k Responsible for 2% of all the posts here. Join Date: May 2002 Location: Texas, U.S.A. Posts: 8,302	You could try sticking neoprene to cover the top, and using neoprene wrapped around the barbs (with hose mounted). Seal the two neoprene pieces with silicone. Insulate the hoses with that stuff... the insulation for hot water pipes. Or even simpler, use that pipe insulation all the way down the tube, and seal that with silicone to the top of the neoprene piece. __________________ WBTA (Water Block Testing Alliance) Nordic Hardware WC 101

10-09-2002, 07:51 PM	#2
wymjym Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: near Austin Posts: 96	If you coat the block with plastic dip, several coats and then apply some neoprene you will be pleasantly surprised. wj

10-09-2002, 08:11 PM	#3
myepoxdied Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Apr 2002 Posts: 19	What exactly is plastic dip?

10-10-2002, 04:31 PM	#4
myepoxdied Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Apr 2002 Posts: 19	Any other suggestions?

10-10-2002, 06:49 PM	#6
myepoxdied Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Apr 2002 Posts: 19	Do you think it would be safe to dip a maze 3-1 into it and just trim it off of the bottom, and put neoprene all over the sides? woulud cause any problems?

10-10-2002, 09:58 PM	#7
myepoxdied Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Apr 2002 Posts: 19	One of the main problems i am having is fitting a block on there, how well do you think an insulated maze 3 would fit on this? http://www.epox.nl/images/motherboard/8k3a.gif Notice the capacitors all around the left side of the socket. BTW, where can you buy plastic dip? and how would you suggest attatching the neoprene to it?

10-11-2002, 06:32 AM	#10
myepoxdied Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Apr 2002 Posts: 19	What should i do about the top bigben2k, it has the same problem there too.

10-11-2002, 11:12 AM	#12
myepoxdied Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Apr 2002 Posts: 19	I know what your saying, but the problem im having is not socket condensation, it is water condenstion on the very top of the block where the fittings go in and generally on top. The water is so cold that it condenses everywhere that's not insulated.

10-11-2002, 11:56 AM	#14
myepoxdied Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Apr 2002 Posts: 19	Would it be safe to use the dip on the top too? I have neoprene on the top now, and the condensation seeps through, on my lines i have ac insulation, which works great.

10-11-2002, 12:35 PM	#15
bigben2k Responsible for 2% of all the posts here. Join Date: May 2002 Location: Texas, U.S.A. Posts: 8,302	It seeps through? Ok, let me recap for a sec, for everyone's benefit... The purpose of insulating, is to prevent the ambient air from hitting the cold surface of the block. That being said, the insulating material itself has to prevent the cold from seeping through itself, otherwise, condensation will apear on the insulating material. I'd do the dip thing, with neoprene, and add silicone sealant between the neoprene top, and the AC line insulation. __________________ WBTA (Water Block Testing Alliance) Nordic Hardware WC 101

10-11-2002, 03:35 PM	#16
myepoxdied Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Apr 2002 Posts: 19	To make sure i'm getting this right. The insulation will be done on a maze 3-1, should i just coat the whole thing in dip, and cut off the bottom portion? Will it have any adverse affects?

10-11-2002, 03:50 PM	#17
bigben2k Responsible for 2% of all the posts here. Join Date: May 2002 Location: Texas, U.S.A. Posts: 8,302	I'd try to avoid putting the dip on the bottom, but that's just because I'm wary about putting anything but AS3. Yeah, that should work. Make sure you mask off the barbs, or better yet, replace them temporarily with plugs. 1/2 NPT PVC, available at any good hardware store, for pennies (I've got one!). __________________ WBTA (Water Block Testing Alliance) Nordic Hardware WC 101

10-11-2002, 03:51 PM	#18
myepoxdied Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Apr 2002 Posts: 19	Thx alot for the help , now to find a pump that will pump the slush for my coolant

10-12-2002, 06:33 PM	#19
wymjym Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: near Austin Posts: 96	The dip will peel right off if you work it, so you can dip the whole thing and then cut out a square where the die fits..peel the dip off and apply your thermal compound. I would tape off the barbed portion of your fittings and dip the whole thing several times...remove the tape and your are well on your way to insulating that bad boy. wj

10-13-2002, 05:48 AM	#20
MadDogMe Thermophile Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Just shut up ;) ... Posts: 1,068	I'd just use Neoprene myself, unless the 'dip' can be removed completly if required. did you know you can get neoprene tape?. for sealing/wrapping around the barbs, and keeping neoprene sheet in place... I don't know where to buy(I live UK) but I'd think Diving shops would sell it for repairs to wet suits...

10-13-2002, 11:06 AM	#21
wymjym Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: near Austin Posts: 96	you can remove the dip entirely, just peal it off. wj

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