Sidewinder TC-4 vs Geminicool spiral block - Page 6

DodgeViper · 10-05-2002, 10:28 AM

This post is for those that may make their own coils and replace the stock turbulators. Be very careful when tightening the machine screws. If over tighten you may crack the Lexan top. Only slight pressure is needed to seal the top.

HMB · 10-14-2002, 07:53 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by ablaze
..mm..confused I am

Alittle too confused it seems. Why do you need an eheim 1060? Are u going to watercool your cpu, HD, videocard, northbridge, PSU and so on and have a big ass tank that you've dug down in the ground? An eheim 1048 would do you perfectly fine.

ablaze · 10-14-2002, 07:05 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by HMB
Alittle too confused it seems. Why do you need an eheim 1060? Are u going to watercool your cpu, HD, videocard, northbridge, PSU and so on and have a big ass tank that you've dug down in the ground? An eheim 1048 would do you perfectly fine.

yep. I believe that too now.
btw, i started this thread in MARCH this year. haven't been around much these days..pretty surprised to see it back up on top

bigben2k · 10-14-2002, 07:17 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by ablaze
btw, i started this thread in MARCH this year. haven't been around much these days..pretty surprised to see it back up on top

See what you started!!!

The thread evolved a lot because of how unusual the design is, and because of the turbulator issue, in the TC-4.

I'm still thinking "Maze1, with a twist"...

DodgeViper · 10-14-2002, 07:49 PM

I am happy to report that I the copper coils lowered my temps by 1c over the open channel TC-4 and 3c over the stock turbulators while using the Eheim 1250.

No two system are alike. nikhsub1 and I have system that are close to each other and I was supprised that we both saw nearly the same temp drops. The coils will remain in my block and once I get my new 3 barb top in place with my new heater core I will report what my temps with this arrangement.

bigben2k · 10-14-2002, 07:53 PM

Good! What took you so long?

DodgeViper · 10-14-2002, 09:23 PM

I was waiting for the new aluminum top for the TC. It seems that water wetter attacked the silicon that was used around the barbs as it became soft and I developed a leak and lost a MOBO.

DodgeViper · 10-14-2002, 09:28 PM

I plan to take a TC-4 and make a few changes and have a system using this method in the drawing.

DodgeViper · 10-14-2002, 09:37 PM

Here is the prototype of the rad. It’s a Chevy Chevette that I added an extra barb. The left side has a 1/2” ID barb while the right side is 2- 3/8” ID barbs. The center barb on the block will be 1/2" ID barb with 3/8” barbs on each end.

I was hoping to have the shrouds done this week, but I have to set the project aside for a few weeks to take care of a family member.

ablaze · 10-15-2002, 04:07 AM

why the extra barb dodge?

DodgeViper · 10-15-2002, 07:38 AM

To eliminate the Y fitting keeping the system flowing smoothly through it's entire system. I am going to a three barb water block. The hose routing will be just like in the drawing.

bigben2k · 10-15-2002, 09:13 AM

You might want to try reversing the flow (and component order).

Take care of family. We'll wait!

jtroutma · 10-15-2002, 01:40 PM

Quote DodgeViper:
"I was waiting for the new aluminum top for the TC. It seems that water wetter attacked the silicon that was used around the barbs as it became soft and I developed a leak and lost a MOBO."

ACK!!! I better flush my system out and replace it with straight water TONGIHT.

DodgeViper · 10-15-2002, 09:42 PM

Quote:

You might want to try reversing the flow (and component order).

I want the water to flow from the pump through the core and into the block. The water leaving the heater core is the coldest and this is the water you want going into the block first. Also I want the water coming from two different directions and colliding at the center of the block.

jaydee · 10-15-2002, 11:58 PM

The water colliding in the middle may not be so good as that, I would think, is where you would want your coldest water entering the block as that is the warmest place of the block. Also if you start on the ends and come in the water will be at its warmest right over the core and I thought that was the opposite of what we were trying to acheive.

. On the other hand with the water exiting over the core it may help suck the heat up and out being heat rises(this may show how little I know about thermo's though

). Going to be interesting, would like to see results both ways around.

I like the rad with the duel outlets. I just put together my Lemon Block system with the duel outs on the block but my rad it to small for duel barbs, not to mention it came stock with 1/2"id pips on it. It is only 6" top of top tank to bottom of bottom tank, 5.5" wide and 2" thick. It out of an old toyota pickup. The copper fins on it have fins! It is a nice little rad. Oncve my damn DNS resolves on my new website i will post some pics of the setup in a new thread.

DodgeViper · 10-16-2002, 01:00 AM

jaydee116, I will try the water both ways and see if there is any difference from the coldest water going into the block from the center as well as on the outside barbs.

HMB · 10-17-2002, 07:45 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by DodgeViper
jaydee116, I will try the water both ways and see if there is any difference from the coldest water going into the block from the center as well as on the outside barbs.

That seems like a good idea

Btw, have you drilled the inlet/outlet barbs on the heater core?

DodgeViper · 10-17-2002, 07:50 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by HMB
That seems like a good idea Btw, have you drilled the inlet/outlet barbs on the heater core?

Are you asking have I enlargered the ID of the barbs?

DodgeViper · 12-16-2002, 10:42 PM

I thought I would revisit this thread as I have made changes to the TC-4. The block now will be sporting a new three-barb top with a jet sprayer. The center channel has been dimpled over the DIE.

I have built a new heater core/shrouds. The core/shrouds now sits sideways in the case. Fresh air is pulled from the right side of the case into the core from the outside and exhausted out the other side of the case. A fitting needs to be added to the top of the heater core replacing the T-fitting. This fitting will be used to fill and bleed the air from the system. Using the three-barb core also eliminates the Y-fitting.

I still need to cut the holes on both side covers and build a flange on the front fan to attach a foam seal so when the side cover is placed on the case the exhaust fan will seal keeping any exhausting air from entering inside the case.

The first few photos the core shows the barbs coming out of the core straight. I now have replaced the barbs at an angle. The 90 degree fitting at the top of the core has been removed and will be replaced.

DodgeViper · 12-17-2002, 06:42 AM

My website server is down. I can only assume its for service. Hopefully it will be back up soon.

bigdawginva · 12-17-2002, 11:19 AM

Looks great! When will these new designs (WB and rad) be available?

nikhsub1 · 12-17-2002, 07:55 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by bigdawginva
Looks great! When will these new designs (WB and rad) be available?

They aren't, DV has made the mods himself...

DodgeViper · 12-17-2002, 08:08 PM

The Heater Core/Shrouds are available from me. You will need to PM me.

bigdawginva · 12-17-2002, 10:18 PM

My apologies. I assumed since this was an original thread using poll results between two blocks, that the above posts meant the owner had come to announce he had updated some of his line of products since some sites do that here. Wishful thinking perhaps.

I suppose I should have somehow known that someone had taken someone else's product and had it modified. Of course, I might have even figured that out on my own if...nah...fahgitit.

DodgeViper · 12-18-2002, 07:36 PM

A few more photos of the system in progress. I added another barb at the top to replace the T-fitting. This will be used to fill/bleed the system.

The camera angle is a little funny in this photo, but all fan openings and grille align very nicely even though the picture does not show it.

View Poll Results: Which block will perform better on a hi-flow 1/2" setup?
Sidewinder TC-4	39	66.10%
GeminiCool "high flow"	20	33.90%
Voters: 59. You may not vote on this poll

10-05-2002, 10:28 AM	#126
DodgeViper Registered User Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Tucson, Arizona Posts: 204	This post is for those that may make their own coils and replace the stock turbulators. Be very careful when tightening the machine screws. If over tighten you may crack the Lexan top. Only slight pressure is needed to seal the top. Last edited by DodgeViper; 10-05-2002 at 10:34 AM.

10-14-2002, 07:53 PM	#131
bigben2k Responsible for 2% of all the posts here. Join Date: May 2002 Location: Texas, U.S.A. Posts: 8,302	Good! What took you so long? __________________ WBTA (Water Block Testing Alliance) Nordic Hardware WC 101

10-15-2002, 09:13 AM	#137
bigben2k Responsible for 2% of all the posts here. Join Date: May 2002 Location: Texas, U.S.A. Posts: 8,302	You might want to try reversing the flow (and component order). Take care of family. We'll wait! __________________ WBTA (Water Block Testing Alliance) Nordic Hardware WC 101

10-15-2002, 01:40 PM	#138
jtroutma Cooling Savant Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: SLO, CA Posts: 837	Quote DodgeViper: "I was waiting for the new aluminum top for the TC. It seems that water wetter attacked the silicon that was used around the barbs as it became soft and I developed a leak and lost a MOBO." ACK!!! I better flush my system out and replace it with straight water TONGIHT. __________________ Athlon64 X2 4200+ @ 2.5Ghz (250FSB x 10) OCZ VX 1GB 4000 @ 250FSB (6-2-2-2 timmings) DFI LANParty nForce4 Ultra-D SCSI Raid 5 x (3) Cheetah 15K HDDs LSI Express 500 (128MB cache) OCZ PowerStream 520W PSU ATI X850XT PE (Stock) DTEK WhiteWater + DTEK Custom Radiator Eheim 1250

10-14-2002, 07:49 PM	#130
DodgeViper Registered User Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Tucson, Arizona Posts: 204	I am happy to report that I the copper coils lowered my temps by 1c over the open channel TC-4 and 3c over the stock turbulators while using the Eheim 1250. No two system are alike. nikhsub1 and I have system that are close to each other and I was supprised that we both saw nearly the same temp drops. The coils will remain in my block and once I get my new 3 barb top in place with my new heater core I will report what my temps with this arrangement.

10-14-2002, 09:23 PM	#132
DodgeViper Registered User Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Tucson, Arizona Posts: 204	I was waiting for the new aluminum top for the TC. It seems that water wetter attacked the silicon that was used around the barbs as it became soft and I developed a leak and lost a MOBO.

10-15-2002, 04:07 AM	#135
ablaze Cooling Savant Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Singapore! Posts: 124	why the extra barb dodge?

10-15-2002, 07:38 AM	#136
DodgeViper Registered User Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Tucson, Arizona Posts: 204	To eliminate the Y fitting keeping the system flowing smoothly through it's entire system. I am going to a three barb water block. The hose routing will be just like in the drawing.

10-15-2002, 11:58 PM	#140
jaydee Put up or Shut Up Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Spokane WA Posts: 6,506	The water colliding in the middle may not be so good as that, I would think, is where you would want your coldest water entering the block as that is the warmest place of the block. Also if you start on the ends and come in the water will be at its warmest right over the core and I thought that was the opposite of what we were trying to acheive.. On the other hand with the water exiting over the core it may help suck the heat up and out being heat rises(this may show how little I know about thermo's though ). Going to be interesting, would like to see results both ways around. I like the rad with the duel outlets. I just put together my Lemon Block system with the duel outs on the block but my rad it to small for duel barbs, not to mention it came stock with 1/2"id pips on it. It is only 6" top of top tank to bottom of bottom tank, 5.5" wide and 2" thick. It out of an old toyota pickup. The copper fins on it have fins! It is a nice little rad. Oncve my damn DNS resolves on my new website i will post some pics of the setup in a new thread.

10-16-2002, 01:00 AM	#141
DodgeViper Registered User Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Tucson, Arizona Posts: 204	jaydee116, I will try the water both ways and see if there is any difference from the coldest water going into the block from the center as well as on the outside barbs.

12-16-2002, 10:42 PM	#144
DodgeViper Registered User Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Tucson, Arizona Posts: 204	I thought I would revisit this thread as I have made changes to the TC-4. The block now will be sporting a new three-barb top with a jet sprayer. The center channel has been dimpled over the DIE. I have built a new heater core/shrouds. The core/shrouds now sits sideways in the case. Fresh air is pulled from the right side of the case into the core from the outside and exhausted out the other side of the case. A fitting needs to be added to the top of the heater core replacing the T-fitting. This fitting will be used to fill and bleed the air from the system. Using the three-barb core also eliminates the Y-fitting. I still need to cut the holes on both side covers and build a flange on the front fan to attach a foam seal so when the side cover is placed on the case the exhaust fan will seal keeping any exhausting air from entering inside the case. The first few photos the core shows the barbs coming out of the core straight. I now have replaced the barbs at an angle. The 90 degree fitting at the top of the core has been removed and will be replaced. Last edited by DodgeViper; 12-16-2002 at 10:53 PM.

12-17-2002, 06:42 AM	#145
DodgeViper Registered User Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Tucson, Arizona Posts: 204	My website server is down. I can only assume its for service. Hopefully it will be back up soon.

12-17-2002, 11:19 AM	#146
bigdawginva Cooling Savant Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: VA Posts: 104	Looks great! When will these new designs (WB and rad) be available?

12-17-2002, 08:08 PM	#148
DodgeViper Registered User Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Tucson, Arizona Posts: 204	The Heater Core/Shrouds are available from me. You will need to PM me.

12-17-2002, 10:18 PM	#149
bigdawginva Cooling Savant Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: VA Posts: 104	My apologies. I assumed since this was an original thread using poll results between two blocks, that the above posts meant the owner had come to announce he had updated some of his line of products since some sites do that here. Wishful thinking perhaps. I suppose I should have somehow known that someone had taken someone else's product and had it modified. Of course, I might have even figured that out on my own if...nah...fahgitit.

12-18-2002, 07:36 PM	#150
DodgeViper Registered User Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Tucson, Arizona Posts: 204	A few more photos of the system in progress. I added another barb at the top to replace the T-fitting. This will be used to fill/bleed the system. The camera angle is a little funny in this photo, but all fan openings and grille align very nicely even though the picture does not show it. Last edited by DodgeViper; 12-18-2002 at 07:44 PM.

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