Go Back   Pro/Forums > ProCooling Technical Discussions > General Liquid/Water Cooling Discussion > Water Block Design / Construction
Password
Register FAQ Members List Calendar JavaChat Mark Forums Read

Water Block Design / Construction Building your own block? Need info on designing one? Heres where to do it

Reply
Thread Tools
Unread 12-06-2002, 03:58 PM   #51
bigben2k
Responsible for 2%
of all the posts here.
 
bigben2k's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Texas, U.S.A.
Posts: 8,302
Default

Right on m8!

Now for the o-ring groove... (that's what I'm working on today!)
bigben2k is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 12-06-2002, 04:52 PM   #52
g.l.amour
Cooling Savant
 
g.l.amour's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: on da case
Posts: 933
Default

hehe, thx. too bad there is no easy(fast) way to judge a block. using it now after a quick and dirty leak test.

what can be said now;

water temps are definetely higher, without having reseated the block 5 times, that must mean the block is doing a slightly better job. with 1 bigmomma + 4/3 bigmomma in parallel getting 1°C higher watertemp is an accomplishment.

now comes the challenge of really fine tuning the method. baseplate thickness, flow resistance,...

will update when i get a better hold on temps.
__________________
yo soy un tiburón
g.l.amour is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 12-06-2002, 05:12 PM   #53
Puzzdre
Cooling Savant
 
Puzzdre's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Croatia
Posts: 969
Default

Oh yeah, pls do!!! And don't forget to post the (arctic) room temp!
__________________
'Out of cheese error...
...please reboot the universe (press the GBL to continue)'
Puzzdre is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 12-06-2002, 05:36 PM   #54
g.l.amour
Cooling Savant
 
g.l.amour's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: on da case
Posts: 933
Default

ok

ambient arctic room temp 16.6 - 16.8°C
watertemp old 18.4
watertemp new 19.0

i'm a very hot guy, so i have no trouble enduring those temps (as long as my fingers don't require gloves, theres nothing an extra layer of clothing won't fix)

problem is i'm to lazy to get someone over to hook the gas stove up. thus /me comes home, puts the 2 pc's in 3dmark loop and ambient rises from 14.5 to 16.8(jippee) in +/- 2hrs. now who needs a stove, just up the vcore some if u want some extra heat.
__________________
yo soy un tiburón
g.l.amour is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 12-07-2002, 04:05 PM   #55
Puzzdre
Cooling Savant
 
Puzzdre's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Croatia
Posts: 969
Default

Quote:
theres nothing an extra layer of clothing won't fix)
LOL, yup, I agree, but I like to be in my T-shirt all the time at home, and being in only a T-shirt and seeing my breath is not good for my fluid temp of 36.6 C average...
__________________
'Out of cheese error...
...please reboot the universe (press the GBL to continue)'
Puzzdre is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 12-07-2002, 04:42 PM   #56
dax
Cooling Neophyte
 
dax's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Ghent, Belgium
Posts: 83
Default

hmm i'm constantly in a tshirt in temps like glamour... but my body temp is more like 35.5-35.8
dax is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 12-07-2002, 04:50 PM   #57
Puzzdre
Cooling Savant
 
Puzzdre's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Croatia
Posts: 969
Default

OMG, do u have a death certificate?

/just kidding/

maybe to reconsider to change the nick from dax to Yeti?

/yeah, same again...

Cheers!
__________________
'Out of cheese error...
...please reboot the universe (press the GBL to continue)'
Puzzdre is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 12-09-2002, 03:13 PM   #58
Puzzdre
Cooling Savant
 
Puzzdre's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Croatia
Posts: 969
Default

Hey guys, what happened to Nulla dies sine linea???

What's up? Or down? Where are those temps, curses or yipiieeee's?
__________________
'Out of cheese error...
...please reboot the universe (press the GBL to continue)'
Puzzdre is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 12-24-2002, 07:07 PM   #59
freeloadingbum
Cooling Savant
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: winnipeg
Posts: 129
Default

Quote:
water temps are definetely higher, without having reseated the block 5 times, that must mean the block is doing a slightly better job. with 1 bigmomma + 4/3 bigmomma in parallel getting 1°C higher watertemp is an accomplishment.
You can't tell the performance of a waterblock by the water temp. A good and bad waterblock will have the same water temp if they have the same flow rate (provided everything else is the same). Changing the flow rate, due to a more/less resistant block can change the water temp, but it won't mean that the block is performing better or worse. Once equilibrium is reached, all blocks, air or water, will absorb the same amount of heat (on the same system), regardless of how good they are.
freeloadingbum is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 12-25-2002, 04:18 AM   #60
pippin88
Cooling Savant
 
pippin88's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Australia
Posts: 285
Default

I'm seriously considering making one of these blocks.

However seeing as I have a Mill I would simply mill the area out side about 3-4cm square around the core to allow easy flow.

Now making it with a mill:

I can either drill all the holes and then join with a smallish bit. Or I could just make a crossgrid of channels?

Any ideas for a good Milled version?

I'll whip up a pic actually.
pippin88 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 12-25-2002, 04:22 AM   #61
pippin88
Cooling Savant
 
pippin88's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Australia
Posts: 285
Default

Heres a pic:

I could also do diagonal channels away from the core, or channels at 45 degrees to the core through the hole thing (I have a vice that can rotate 360 Degrees - also how do I do the little circle symbol for degrees?)
Attached Images
File Type: jpg idea.jpg (9.7 KB, 205 views)
pippin88 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 12-25-2002, 07:53 AM   #62
utabintarbo
Cooling Savant
 
utabintarbo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Sterling Hts., MI
Posts: 496
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by pippin88
I'm seriously considering making one of these blocks.

However seeing as I have a Mill I would simply mill the area out side about 3-4cm square around the core to allow easy flow.

Now making it with a mill:

I can either drill all the holes and then join with a smallish bit. Or I could just make a crossgrid of channels?

Any ideas for a good Milled version?

I'll whip up a pic actually.
Why not just set up a drill cycle with an overlapping hole pattern? That would take care of the channels. You can vary the size of the channels by varying the amount of overlap.

Just be sure to use a short, stiff drill bit!

Bob
__________________
Sarcasm is yet another of the free services we offer!
utabintarbo is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 12-25-2002, 08:44 AM   #63
Puzzdre
Cooling Savant
 
Puzzdre's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Croatia
Posts: 969
Default

Quote:
also how do I do the little circle symbol for degrees?)
[Alt] + 0176 --> ° (You need to use the number pad to make this work.)

I think you're better to drill the holes, than connect 'em with mill bit. It will go faster, and you gain small drill bit pits in the bottom for added surface and turbulence.

Morphling1 made one similar just with the mill, do a search for his threads on blocks...

Merry Christmass, and

Good luck!!!
__________________
'Out of cheese error...
...please reboot the universe (press the GBL to continue)'
Puzzdre is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 12-25-2002, 07:01 PM   #64
pippin88
Cooling Savant
 
pippin88's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Australia
Posts: 285
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by utabintarbo
Why not just set up a drill cycle with an overlapping hole pattern? That would take care of the channels. You can vary the size of the channels by varying the amount of overlap.

Just be sure to use a short, stiff drill bit!

Bob
I don't get ya.

I presume by Drill Cycle you are refferring to CNC, which I dont have (Unless its part of my mysterious extra Christmas present from my dad)

As for doing it by drill, is there any advantage over just having many little pins? Or would I just be best to make a Cathar style block?

I believe the drill and small achannel design came about because of the way of manufacture, not necessarily a series of joined drilled holes having better performance than many channels crossing, to form many pins.
pippin88 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 12-25-2002, 08:19 PM   #65
pippin88
Cooling Savant
 
pippin88's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Australia
Posts: 285
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by Puzzdre
[Alt] + 0176 --> ° (You need to use the number pad to make this work.)

I think you're better to drill the holes, than connect 'em with mill bit. It will go faster, and you gain small drill bit pits in the bottom for added surface and turbulence.

Morphling1 made one similar just with the mill, do a search for his threads on blocks...

Merry Christmass, and

Good luck!!!
Ok, Noted.

I think I'll mill out the area all around the exit barbs, drill a nice grid of holes in the middle and join with as small a mill bit as I can get (I just broke my 1/8th bit, makes you feel like shit when you do that sort stuff for the first time)
pippin88 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 12-26-2002, 07:56 AM   #66
Puzzdre
Cooling Savant
 
Puzzdre's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Croatia
Posts: 969

Quote:
I think I'll mill out the area all around the exit barbs, drill a nice grid of holes in the middle and join with as small a mill bit as I can get (I just broke my 1/8th bit, makes you feel like shit when you do that sort stuff for the first time)
I used 2 mm mill bit to connect the channels, using even smaller on a drill press is PITA, too many passes to do without a xy table...

LOL, braking those things surely doesn't make me happy, they're hard to get in shops here...

That pic you posted looks similar to jaydee's Lemon block he made, there's a thread he made here in this section, but he made it in alu and complete with the mill.
Milling the area around the outlets is very good idea, remove as much restriction in these parts as possible, and ofcourse, post the results (and pics!!!)

Cheers!
__________________
'Out of cheese error...
...please reboot the universe (press the GBL to continue)'
Puzzdre is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 12-26-2002, 06:04 PM   #67
pippin88
Cooling Savant
 
pippin88's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Australia
Posts: 285
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by Puzzdre
I used 2 mm mill bit to connect the channels, using even smaller on a drill press is PITA, too many passes to do without a xy table...

LOL, braking those things surely doesn't make me happy, they're hard to get in shops here...

That pic you posted looks similar to jaydee's Lemon block he made, there's a thread he made here in this section, but he made it in alu and complete with the mill.
Milling the area around the outlets is very good idea, remove as much restriction in these parts as possible, and ofcourse, post the results (and pics!!!)

Cheers!
Will do.

Should also have some pics of my GPU design that I hope works.
pippin88 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 12-30-2002, 02:15 AM   #68
pippin88
Cooling Savant
 
pippin88's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Australia
Posts: 285
Default

Any idea on the optimal size for the holes?
pippin88 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 12-30-2002, 03:23 AM   #69
Puzzdre
Cooling Savant
 
Puzzdre's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Croatia
Posts: 969
Default

Dunno if they're optimal, but I tried 12 mm ID inlet, 10 mm ID outlets, it worked good, than switched to 10 mm ID inlet, 12 mm ID outlets, gained 1 °C on first block. All tubing I have is 12 mm ID...
__________________
'Out of cheese error...
...please reboot the universe (press the GBL to continue)'
Puzzdre is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 12-30-2002, 06:08 AM   #70
pippin88
Cooling Savant
 
pippin88's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Australia
Posts: 285
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by Puzzdre
Dunno if they're optimal, but I tried 12 mm ID inlet, 10 mm ID outlets, it worked good, than switched to 10 mm ID inlet, 12 mm ID outlets, gained 1 °C on first block. All tubing I have is 12 mm ID...
I was reffering to the grid of drilled holes not the entry/exit (Which will be 1/2" bits - which I'll drill out to about 10mm ID (damn barbs are always smaller than you'd think))
pippin88 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 12-30-2002, 06:29 AM   #71
Volenti
Cooling Savant
 
Volenti's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: in a nice cool spot
Posts: 427
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by pippin88
Any idea on the optimal size for the holes?
I don't know what would be optimal, however in a couple of the small scale #Rotor style exprimental blocks I've made I've used 3mm holes with I think 1.5mm spacing.

Here is an example (part of my old pump-block mod) of what you can do if you take to the hole grid with a hand power drill at an extreme angle using a 3mm drill bit. It takes a fair bit of practice and control to keep the drill where you want it, but you can end up with a Cathar esque block using only drills
__________________
feel free to icq/msn me, I'm always willing to toss around ideas.
Volenti is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 12-30-2002, 08:25 AM   #72
Puzzdre
Cooling Savant
 
Puzzdre's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Croatia
Posts: 969
Default

Quote:
I was reffering to the grid of drilled holes
Oooops, sorry,
I made the grid with 4 mm spacing between the center of the holes, than drilled with 3.3 mm bit...
__________________
'Out of cheese error...
...please reboot the universe (press the GBL to continue)'
Puzzdre is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 01-06-2003, 07:01 PM   #73
G33k
Cooling Neophyte
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Bristol [UK]
Posts: 73
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by Volenti
...my old pump-block mod...
Interesting... how did that one perform?
__________________
"Success is 99% Failure"
G33k is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 01-06-2003, 07:25 PM   #74
chewyboy
Cooling Neophyte
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: us
Posts: 75
Default

I dont know if this has been tried but have you thought of something alonge these lines. setup your dremil in a smililar mannar as they did in this thread

http://forums.procooling.com/vbb/sho...&threadid=5270

but instead of making the x shape that they did, kinda grind down the top of it a bit then just make parallel channels like cathar did. anyway it might be worth a try or if someone already has done it post your performance here.
chewyboy is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 01-07-2003, 09:42 PM   #75
ChronoS
Cooling Neophyte
 
ChronoS's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Argentina
Posts: 9
Default

excuse me, but how do you seal the block, with screws only?
ChronoS is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 12:15 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2022, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
(C) 2005 ProCooling.com
If we in some way offend you, insult you or your people, screw your mom, beat up your dad, or poop on your porch... we're sorry... we were probably really drunk...
Oh and dont steal our content bitches! Don't give us a reason to pee in your open car window this summer...