Eheim 1250 out-take only 3/8" ? - Page 2

richyoung · 06-22-2003, 12:21 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by GenGoku
Thanks for all the measuring . My main concern is if my 1/2" tubing will work as-is or if i need to purchase any additional attachments to make it work with the Eheim 1250.

I am using Tygon tubing which measures 1/2" ID. I am getting leaks on the output barb. It has been a real pain. I haven't had any issues with any other connections.

Note: Today was the first day I tested it. I am still a work in process. ...Rich

nyyanks · 06-22-2003, 12:23 AM

I think I know what you mean now,if its what I think you mean its for when you use this pump in a pond to make it a fountain.

richyoung · 06-22-2003, 12:29 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by nyyanks
Do you mean the pump adapter barb?

Nope. I mean part numbers 7438200 and 7438510. See the enclosed link. http://www.dtekcustoms.com/product.asp?3=64

...Rich

nyyanks · 06-22-2003, 12:31 AM

Yes the 200 part is the barbed part the 510 is the part for the fountain or whatever.

richyoung · 06-22-2003, 12:47 AM

The 510 part measures 1/2" ID or 5/8" OD at the threaded end. The other end is bigger.

MadDogMe · 06-22-2003, 04:59 AM

The Eheim barb IS actualy a 1/2 inch barb. The dangerden Maze3's 1/2inch barb measures the same. 1/2inch barbs are'nt measured by the inner diametre

. I thought the same thing when I saw my 1250 first off

...

I brought a 16mm (5/8) barb to go on there instead. It fit's because the outlet uses 3/8BSP thread instead of 1/4BSP thread that 1/2 water blocks use. The 5/8 barb made no difference to my temps though :shrug: ...

richyoung · 06-22-2003, 10:34 AM

Where did you purchase the 5/8 barb? Thanks, ...Rich

pHaestus · 06-22-2003, 12:19 PM

THe barbs are designed to go into tubing. So a 1/2" barb fits into 1/2"ID tubing making its OD 1/2". The barb's walls have some thickness, so that means that the ID of the barb is less (yes a stock 1/2" hosebarb is close to 3/8" ID). That's why many of us either:

Use 5/8" hosebarbs (their inside diameter is right at 1/2" and you can still get tygon and clearflex or silicone over them nice and snugly)

Use copper pipe fittings instead of barbs for much nicer IDs

Use a drill press and open up our 1/2" hose barbs more for higher flow.

To FURTHER add to the confusion, Eheim pumps are european, so the barbs aren't exactly 1/2" and the threads aren't NPT. I have found that a 3/8"NPT x 5/8" barb will go in ok on the 1250 outlet, but use silicone "Goop" and DON'T tighten it all the way in. You will crack the housing if you do this, especially with a brass barb but even with nylon ones. I had to JB Weld a friend of mine's pump back together the other day who had done this.

richyoung · 06-23-2003, 07:48 PM

I solved my leak problem with Teflon paste, used on gas fittings, and a metal hose clamp. Apparently this problem is common when using Tygon tubing. I sent an email to D-Tek and let them know they should stock the barbs sold in UK and AU. ...Rich

redleader · 06-24-2003, 01:05 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by pHaestus
THe barbs are designed to go into tubing. So a 1/2" barb fits into 1/2"ID tubing making its OD 1/2". The barb's walls have some thickness, so that means that the ID of the barb is less (yes a stock 1/2" hosebarb is close to 3/8" ID). That's why many of us either:
Use 5/8" hosebarbs (their inside diameter is right at 1/2" and you can still get tygon and clearflex or silicone over them nice and snugly)

Use copper pipe fittings instead of barbs for much nicer IDs

Use a drill press and open up our 1/2" hose barbs more for higher flow.

To FURTHER add to the confusion, Eheim pumps are european, so the barbs aren't exactly 1/2" and the threads aren't NPT. I have found that a 3/8"NPT x 5/8" barb will go in ok on the 1250 outlet, but use silicone "Goop" and DON'T tighten it all the way in. You will crack the housing if you do this, especially with a brass barb but even with nylon ones. I had to JB Weld a friend of mine's pump back together the other day who had done this.

pH is dead on. Remember if everything was measured by OD or ID it wouldn't be possible to fit tube over barbs.

To add to what he said, you can use 1/2 inch PVC fittings on the outlet thread just fine. I wouldn't attempt the inlet though, its some odd size. I'll see if I can dig up a link when I get home.

GenGoku · 06-24-2003, 01:12 PM

ahhh, now i see. thanks for the clarification. if i shouldn't attempt to fit my 1/2" tubing over the inlet, what should i do?

pHaestus · 06-24-2003, 09:38 PM

nah the inlet is fine (it is just under 5/8" I think). I used it forever with 1/2" silicone (ID eh?) stretched over it

GenGoku · 06-24-2003, 09:45 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by pHaestus
nah the inlet is fine (it is just under 5/8" I think). I used it forever with 1/2" silicone (ID eh?) stretched over it

is the stock eheim ready to accept 1/2" tubing? Would you happen to know about cooltechnica's ClearFlex60 1/2" tubes?

thanks

richyoung · 06-25-2003, 10:13 PM

Good news from D-Tek. "Hi Rich,

You are correct the tygon is a little loose on the output barb. We can and will supply new barbs for that. Thanks for the heads up on it.

Thanks,
Danny
www.dtekcustoms.com
Ph 949-829-0067
Fax 949-829-0078"

...Rich

06-24-2003, 01:12 PM	#36
GenGoku Cooling Savant Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Southern California Posts: 177	ahhh, now i see. thanks for the clarification. if i shouldn't attempt to fit my 1/2" tubing over the inlet, what should i do? __________________ Lian Li PC65 / Enermax Thermal Monitor + Rheobus Fioneer 4x DVD-RW (Cendyne) Eheim1250 -> DTek ProCore -> WhiteWater -> Maze4 GPU (in series) AMD XP 1700b+ @ 2.3GHz (11.5x200@1.75v actual) GeForce 4 Ti4200 128MB 512MB DDR PC3200 HyperX 512MB DDR PC3200 TwinX (2x256) Abit NF7-S v2.0 Samsung SyncMaster 900NF Powered by Water

06-22-2003, 12:23 AM	#27
nyyanks Cooling Neophyte Join Date: May 2003 Location: NY Posts: 12	I think I know what you mean now,if its what I think you mean its for when you use this pump in a pond to make it a fountain.

06-22-2003, 12:31 AM	#29
nyyanks Cooling Neophyte Join Date: May 2003 Location: NY Posts: 12	Yes the 200 part is the barbed part the 510 is the part for the fountain or whatever.

06-22-2003, 12:47 AM	#30
richyoung Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Danville, CA Posts: 13	The 510 part measures 1/2" ID or 5/8" OD at the threaded end. The other end is bigger.

06-22-2003, 04:59 AM	#31
MadDogMe Thermophile Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Just shut up ;) ... Posts: 1,068	The Eheim barb IS actualy a 1/2 inch barb. The dangerden Maze3's 1/2inch barb measures the same. 1/2inch barbs are'nt measured by the inner diametre . I thought the same thing when I saw my 1250 first off ... I brought a 16mm (5/8) barb to go on there instead. It fit's because the outlet uses 3/8BSP thread instead of 1/4BSP thread that 1/2 water blocks use. The 5/8 barb made no difference to my temps though :shrug: ...

06-22-2003, 10:34 AM	#32
richyoung Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Danville, CA Posts: 13	Where did you purchase the 5/8 barb? Thanks, ...Rich

06-22-2003, 12:19 PM	#33
pHaestus Big Player Making Big Money Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: irc.lostgeek.com #procooling.com Posts: 4,782	THe barbs are designed to go into tubing. So a 1/2" barb fits into 1/2"ID tubing making its OD 1/2". The barb's walls have some thickness, so that means that the ID of the barb is less (yes a stock 1/2" hosebarb is close to 3/8" ID). That's why many of us either: Use 5/8" hosebarbs (their inside diameter is right at 1/2" and you can still get tygon and clearflex or silicone over them nice and snugly) Use copper pipe fittings instead of barbs for much nicer IDs Use a drill press and open up our 1/2" hose barbs more for higher flow. To FURTHER add to the confusion, Eheim pumps are european, so the barbs aren't exactly 1/2" and the threads aren't NPT. I have found that a 3/8"NPT x 5/8" barb will go in ok on the 1250 outlet, but use silicone "Goop" and DON'T tighten it all the way in. You will crack the housing if you do this, especially with a brass barb but even with nylon ones. I had to JB Weld a friend of mine's pump back together the other day who had done this.

06-23-2003, 07:48 PM	#34
richyoung Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Danville, CA Posts: 13	I solved my leak problem with Teflon paste, used on gas fittings, and a metal hose clamp. Apparently this problem is common when using Tygon tubing. I sent an email to D-Tek and let them know they should stock the barbs sold in UK and AU. ...Rich

06-24-2003, 09:38 PM	#37
pHaestus Big Player Making Big Money Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: irc.lostgeek.com #procooling.com Posts: 4,782	nah the inlet is fine (it is just under 5/8" I think). I used it forever with 1/2" silicone (ID eh?) stretched over it

06-25-2003, 10:13 PM	#39
richyoung Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Danville, CA Posts: 13	Good news from D-Tek. "Hi Rich, You are correct the tygon is a little loose on the output barb. We can and will supply new barbs for that. Thanks for the heads up on it. Thanks, Danny www.dtekcustoms.com Ph 949-829-0067 Fax 949-829-0078" ...Rich

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