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Water Block Design / Construction Building your own block? Need info on designing one? Heres where to do it |
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02-11-2004, 08:05 PM | #26 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Ohio, U.S.A.
Posts: 177
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well, something a little more like this was what i'm going to build, dunno if this will give you any ideas or not. basically, forcing the coolant to move at a higher velocity since its a smaller area, over the core.(fewer rows of holes) yeah, i'm sure it will probably be more restrictive, but i'm planning on getting an MCP-600 so we'll just see how it all settles out.
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02-12-2004, 10:58 AM | #27 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: NJ
Posts: 21
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Well im using the intel platform.
The overall width of all the holes is just big enough to cover the heatspreader. Our designs are very similar. Except the where the water meets the holes. See on your design water is going to flow one hole to the outside edge. With mine it is going straight across the block as i eliminated the holes that are going to flow the wrong way. |
02-12-2004, 02:57 PM | #28 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Willmar MN/Fargo ND
Posts: 504
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First of all, if your using AMD, the maximum width shoudl be under 2" and to get the mounting holes in youll need it 3" long. The design looks pretty good though.
Jon |
02-12-2004, 04:45 PM | #29 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: NJ
Posts: 21
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Yeah its for Intel.
Im considering putting holes in for AMD. But if i got an AMD layout then i would probobly just make a new block. Also jon i see you wrote a review for the Danner Mag 3. Would that be a good pump for this system? Im probobly going to make a NB cooler and a chipset cooler too. Also the radiator will be a chevette heater core. |
02-12-2004, 05:23 PM | #30 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Willmar MN/Fargo ND
Posts: 504
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It would be a pretty good pump unless you want to spend more money on the pump.
Jon |
02-12-2004, 07:39 PM | #31 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: FL
Posts: 787
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What are your guy's milling capabilities? Im just asking, beacause from the looks of it, the bottom copper block is pretty similar to the cascade, and if you had the capabilities, you could mill little "jet pins" out of the plexy, and have much nicer performance. Have you considdered this?
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02-12-2004, 09:19 PM | #32 | |
Thermophile
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 1,014
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Quote:
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02-12-2004, 10:54 PM | #33 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: NJ
Posts: 21
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Yeah im not even going to try.
Anyway. All i have is a drill press. Am i going to be able to drill the copper? The price for everything i need is $50. The copper (1/4" x 3" x 1') is like $15 at McMaster. Is that good? Also the springs im using put about 23 (all together) pounds of pressure on the block. Is that enough? I read the Intel specification and it said up to 100 pounds... Yeah you guys help so danm much. Ive never been to a forum and received such good advice. Plus your all really nice. LOL look at the kids at www.xoxideforums.com Shwag |
02-13-2004, 10:51 PM | #34 |
Thermophile
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 1,014
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Yeah, I'm actually banned from the xoxide forums... I stuck up for a friend, NO TACT, and they booted me off. Mod went on a power trip. They were all retards, I would usually provide information that would keep them from all ruining their computers doing stupid stuff and hurting themselves in the process, but I eventually got tired of it. I guess darwin will take over from where I left off. And you're right, they are all KIDS there A buncha 13 year olds who simply want to put neons in their PC's and never do anything DIY or extreme. Pretty sad to watch actually, the same stuff happened to the car modification industry in the last couple of years as well. Ricers...
If you are using an intel chip, you might want to get bigger springs, but check it out first. It may be okay. $50 seems a bit much, what all are you actually buying anyways? Yes, you will be able to drill copper with a drill press, just make sure you use plenty of cutting oil (veggie oil works fine) on the bit, use slow RPMS, try to get a nice tap going and back out every once in a while to clear the hole. Also, make sure the bit, the depth stop, and the block are all tightened and clamped down well when you are working. Nothing sucks more than ruining the block in the very last hole... Also, be certain you have all the dimensions worked out before you cut. Put some masking tape on the bottom of the block when working on it to keep from gouging it, and try to give each hole a *LITTLE* center punch to keep the bit from walking around. Dont center punch it too much or you will warp the base. Good luck!
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02-13-2004, 11:02 PM | #35 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: NJ
Posts: 21
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Im buying alot...
Barbed Fittings (10): $4.05 1/4" NPT Tap: $5.50 Copper (1/4" x 3" x 1'): $16.38 6-32 Machine Screws(25): $6.67 6-32 Machine Nuts (100): 1.53 Springs(12): $5.74 Fiber Washers(100): $4.76 6-32 Hex Standoffs(8): $6.08 7/16" Drill Bit(For Tap): $4.62 Total: $55.33 |
02-14-2004, 12:06 AM | #36 |
Thermophile
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 1,014
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Wow, that will make a lot of blocks, provided you get more copper
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02-14-2004, 10:04 AM | #37 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: NJ
Posts: 21
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Yeah i know....
Id also have to get more springs for mounting and danm those things are expensive. I accidently open account ordered the stuff yesterday. LOL. I get it now and pay it later. Like within 30 or 60 days. I was trying to figure out shipping and i hit "place order". I called and canceled it. Kinda hard to buy something with no money. Meh. |
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