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General Liquid/Water Cooling Discussion For discussion about Full Cooling System kits, or general cooling topics. Keep specific cooling items like pumps, radiators, etc... in their specific forums.

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Unread 11-22-2002, 05:47 PM   #276
g.l.amour
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ok, first a better pic from the non sealed WB



now a pic of the block, with a good seal (drawed an o-ring with some very elastic glue), as u can see from the goop that is spilling out the edges... for a good seal, use alot of goop.



u can also make out the used glue

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Unread 11-22-2002, 06:02 PM   #277
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IT'S ALIVE!!! IT'S ALIVE!!!

wOw!!! Action!!!

Man, it's sooo good to see in action something you made yourself and know every step it took to get there!!!

WOOOOW!!!

And again, CONGRATULATIONS!!! Hope that cardboard box will stay dry all the test period!

I'm familiar with that glue, it's freakin' sticky and smelly! Let's see how it does!

Great!
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Unread 11-22-2002, 06:55 PM   #278
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thk u , thk u, thk u

if it weren't for you puzzdre, to start exactly this thread, it wouldn't have taken this form.

anyway, running leakfree for over 2 hrs. i can really recommend that glue. the first try that leaked, the glue layer was way too thin. second one that didn't leak, i smudged the glue about 2 - 3 mm thick on all the joining parts. let it dry for 20 mins until it got really gummy and rubbery. and then screw em together.

i'm really getting curious now as to how the custom block will perform against a regular maze2. that is something that will have to wait till tomorrow though.

its really a buzz to see how this thread has evolved over pg's and pg's ... tapping tips, gluing tips, drilling tips. it could be a very comprehensive how-to

edit: it is the same glue that is keeping the joint between pump and res leakfree on my working PC
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Unread 11-23-2002, 12:35 AM   #279
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on the amount of glue..... a minute amount, is meant to be enough to cover the sealing surface with about a 0.5mm lair of sealant. you can use more if you feel it to be safer. the trick is to have the glue spread as evenly and for it to cover the complete surface.

a good idea is to lap the two inner surface with 600 grit, until you can fell it to be cleared of any protruding points. Also, work very very clean.... once you are done with the lapping, wash the two halves, using dish washing liquid, to remove all the oil (WD40). That will further insure a perfect bonds.

hardening epoxies, should work, But yes the elastic sealant types of glue is much better. Bathroom sealant will do the job %100 as well. So if GOOP is like unobtanuim, then go for the sealant.
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Unread 11-23-2002, 12:00 PM   #280
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Quote:
if it weren't for you puzzdre, to start exactly this thread, it wouldn't have taken this form.
Yeah, yeah, blame it on me...you took quite a large part in it...

I found a good quality bathroom silicone, gonna use it for sealing the block. Tonight..

Now is my turn to say what g.l. amour already said,

A BIG BIG THANX TO EVERYBODY. For all the tips and tricks and help on every step in making this!

My right arm won't listen to me, prolly consequence of sanding the block...

Here's the pics:
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Unread 11-23-2002, 12:03 PM   #281
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another one, disassembled...
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Unread 11-23-2002, 12:04 PM   #282
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other sides...
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Unread 11-23-2002, 12:08 PM   #283
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barbs out...

Bottom is sanded to 1000 grit, inner sides to 600 and sides and top to 320... I'll see will I leave that semi matt finish or go for some shine...

HAAAAAAPPPPPPPPPYYYYYYYYYYYY!!!!

Again, big thanks to everybody participated in any possible way!
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Unread 11-23-2002, 01:09 PM   #284
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that is one nasty block!!!

hope yours will pass the leak test too. it's nice to see it all finished, but it is mighty exiting when u switch on pump power through the block.

gr8 job on the sanding. but still alot of polishing ahead. spent the entire day almost getting rid of all the dents and scratches. editing pix now.

hmm, i have alot of trouble finding any sanding paper above 600grit. would be good for the bottom. but 600 will have to do.

g'luck epoxying.

thx for yet another tip #rotor. every step making this sort of block requires a nice amount of expertise, i never would have thought that something like gluing both halves would also require some craftsmanship. never to old to learn eh.
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Unread 11-23-2002, 02:49 PM   #285
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Thx m8!!!

I'm almost sad cos' I have to seal it, not assemble/disassemble and all over again...

Sanding paper above 600 I haven't found it in stores around here, but the guy in machinist shop gave me 2 sheets of 1000 when I told him I cannot find any...But nothing in stores...:shrug:

Seems like everything that should be DIY here, begins with nasty FIY, find it yourself...hate that...

I'll give the silicone a chance, don't wanna to epoxy it forever.

Off to smear some silicone all around the apartement...accidentally, ofcourse...
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Unread 11-23-2002, 02:52 PM   #286
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hahahah

i thk your wife will be most delighted when this blockmaking storm comes to an end... but wait, then theres still the original thread idea to be accomplished... on to CASEMODDING
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Unread 11-23-2002, 03:06 PM   #287
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LOL,

We are together long enough that She knows that "end of making something" doesn't exist in my space/time continuum...

One can always judge by the pile of material/tools growing and growing...

But seeing me singing/hopping/err..."dancing" all day cos' of some little success makes her being simpathetic for all the garbage I made in apartement...dunno for how long...maybe it will be time to find bigger appartement when She start giving me the eye...

Yup, there's lot of work in front...case modding, flow meter making, carpet soaking, tubes all around the place...woah, hope the snow will wait for some time more...

Cheers!
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Unread 11-23-2002, 04:02 PM   #288
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i think my girlfriend must have about the same attitude as your wife. she's just happy when i'm working on something like a psycho, and being ectatic when something works out ok.

lol; the neighbours must be having their fun, seeing Da Puzzdre h4x0ring some pieces of copper on his balcony.
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Unread 11-23-2002, 04:12 PM   #289
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Two thumbs up for choosing the gf!

The braver ones between the neighbours used to ask whats that I'm making, but after the answer being related to the computers, they just nod significantly, and walk away... ...probably thinking something like 'just another weirdo'...
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Unread 11-23-2002, 04:51 PM   #290
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u r a funny guy. i can't count the times i've sat here, laughing at this stupid computerscreen.

must be hilarious...
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Unread 11-23-2002, 06:50 PM   #291
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I'm glad to hear that!

Now, I just remembered that I wanted to buy something today, and now, saturday late night, I remember what. A Y piece for garden hoses. Those shitty pieces are 8 mm ID, thought to redrill them to 10 mm ID if possible. Cannot go higher cos' theres not enough material for bigger dia drill... And tomorrow is Sunday. All shops closed. Great. Every mother's favourite son will not install the block tomorrow. Maybe monday afternoon...Yuk...

This thread is considered an (almost) how to. So, this is another tip for block makers. Make sure you list and get ALL you need before sunday. At least if you live in place where everything stops on sunday.

I'll check in my father's garden watering junk if I can find something to use...Maybe there is a chance!

We'll see...

PS. A big thank to pHaestus or anybody else in charge for not moving this thread. I know it evolved into something else than the topic says, I hope it didn't offend anybody.
Thanx!
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Unread 11-23-2002, 07:18 PM   #292
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aha, well i've found a small chain of hobby shops that is open on sunday, those are really smart boys, most ppl have heaps of free time on sunday. too bad u ain't got those in CRO

heh, i never really apologized for hijacking this thread. sry man, this isn't really what the topic says.

drill it out man, i did the same with my brass barbs, some weakass plastic should be piece of cake.
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Unread 11-24-2002, 05:26 AM   #293
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There's nothing to appologise for. You also helped a lot!!!
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Unread 11-24-2002, 07:54 AM   #294
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heh, we still need some polished results from you puzzdre. make it shine...
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Unread 11-24-2002, 03:21 PM   #295
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I couldn't wait, so I installed the block. Reinstalled it four times, but I'm not very happy (fortunately I (think) I know why...)
So, found one crappy Y garden hose piece, re-drilled it to 10 mm ID. Changed crappy inlet barb on my rad from 8 mm ID to 10 mm ID (best I could do today afternoon). Problem is that Y piece is too wide so my 12 mm ID PVC tubes kinked a lot, so I replaced them with 8 mm ID silicone (only ones I got). Till later this evening I was pissed off enough with my small case and that Y piece, so I didn't have the nerve to take out and redrill another Y also in system, using it like a fill point/air trap. So that's another restriction (that Y is 8 mm ID).
The good thing is that my flow indicator spins like mad, which wasn't the case with my old block.
Now I'm idling on 36, with old block was 34. Full load with the new block is 39, with old block was 39 - 40 deg. Room temp are pretty steady these days, 25 deg. Two 120 mm Adda fans at 7 V.

Dunno, I won't say anything till I make this setup right, all I can say now is that this block is flowing like hell! Visually, it kinda doubled spinning of the flow indicator.

/edit/ that 8 mm ID silicone tubes go from two outlets to the Y piece, about 12 cm in length (2 x 12 cm). All other tubing is 12 mm ID...

Puzzled...:shrug:
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Unread 11-24-2002, 04:36 PM   #296
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The answer might lie in your baseplate thickness: how thick is the block, from the bottom of the drilled hole, to the bottom of the block?
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Unread 11-24-2002, 04:50 PM   #297
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as per rotor's recomendation we both kinda made it at 5mm baseplate thickness. fragn'stien who seems to be getting some better results has a very small baseplate thickness of 3mm.

i thk for the next evolution i will try to go for a baseplate of 3-4mm. + billA suggested not profiling the top half, so flow resistance would increase at the cooling hotspot, but so would convection.
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Unread 11-24-2002, 05:01 PM   #298
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Considering the accuracy of the drill press, the base thickness is, as g.l.amour said, 5 mm (probably more like 6 mm).
Dunno if it's gonna change something, tomorrow I'll replace inlet 12 mm ID barb with 10 mm ID.
Yeah, I figured out that maybe a little thinner base would be better. I'm not dissatisfied with this block, just wanted it to perform better in a given setup than my old block, which looks like this: 6 mm ID drilled in s or z...
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Unread 11-24-2002, 05:07 PM   #299
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same here, i was expecting alot of improvement over the maze2, but temps have dropped at 100% load with about 1°C. but, i must be getting very cocky thinking that the first block i make can outperform anything. i think morphling's first or rotor's weren't that 'cool' either.

no free learning...
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Unread 11-25-2002, 05:21 AM   #300
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What do you guys think, Shall we go kick some commercial @$$

BillA-blockdrags.

I hope them commercial Co's are gonna be there, they damn well better be...
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