Watercooling.IL

naS · 10-01-2004, 03:42 PM

mm mmm

finaly had some time to cnc my water block ..

so far i've done only the base made out of copper..

here are some picis ^_^

god it came out smaller then i expected but so nice and shiny

a lil Q thought..
How do u guys keep the copper all nice any clean ? it blacken out on me after i clean it after a lil while..

|kbn| · 10-01-2004, 04:01 PM

Looks very nice, although a bit restrictve.

Is it a center inlet block? One thing I would suggest is milling the tops of the channels to a point to increase flow but it should perform well with a big pump like that.

To keep it shiny wash it with a solvent (white spirit works well, or methenol is what I used on mine) to get all the crap off and dont touch it as the salt in your skin will etch your fingerprints onto the copper.
You could laquer it but I havent found one for copper that doesnt go sticky as it gets hot.
If the copper is clean it shouldnt oxidise very fast....
Also get a cloth wheel and some pollishing paste, copper looks so much nicer when its got a mirror finnish

naS · 10-01-2004, 04:19 PM

yeah ofcourse , ill polish it as i finish the cover and all, so far i could find only 600-1200 water paper in jumps of 2 , working on geting even higher..

i heard somewhere about that laquer... i'll look into it , can u laquer the base and the inside aswell ? i will probly dmg the heat transfer :o
as for cleaning it , thanks ill try .. thought its abit useless coz it will get all messy again in no time

|kbn| · 10-01-2004, 05:47 PM

no dont lap it (wet/dry paper) as that will ruin the flatness. I dunno how flat yours is but mine was quite flat with only light scratches from machining, but overall flat. However the base was machined aswell as the top, to reduce the thickness.
Use 1200 grit paper but skip the rest before it. Then you need a cloth wheel, I think you can get them for dremmel tools, but I used a large 200mm felt one at work. then you use pollishing paste, I used 6 micron diamond paste and 1micron after, which gets it mirror shiny. http://server5.uploadit.org/files/kbn2k3-wb1base.jpg

If you laquer it only do the sides and top. The wet parts of the block it isnt nessasary as it will be wet, so shouldnt have to much contact with air if you remove most of the bubbles but make sure you use distilled water.

naS · 10-01-2004, 06:57 PM

well
the base is fairly flat , its still have the finish from the flat endmill .. and its all black and ugly, i must lap it .. cant stand watchin it like that

i think i have a cupple of cloth wheels at my pa workshop so it wont be a problem.. is that diamond pastes common or will it be hard to find ? shall i ask for "diamond polishing paste" or smt like that?

iakovl · 10-02-2004, 06:38 AM

hey naS
long time no see

why didn't u post the pic's in HW forum?

as ppl sad , nice block but very restrictve.

naS · 10-02-2004, 07:35 AM

i ment too .. but no host for the pics

restriction wont be a problem , for 2 reasons.
A. the top will have a big enterence that will help spread the water.
B. i ordered an Iwaki md 30 RZ 220V version from ebay ^_^

|kbn| · 10-02-2004, 08:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by naS

well
the base is fairly flat , its still have the finish from the flat endmill .. and its all black and ugly, i must lap it .. cant stand watchin it like that

i think i have a cupple of cloth wheels at my pa workshop so it wont be a problem.. is that diamond pastes common or will it be hard to find ? shall i ask for "diamond polishing paste" or smt like that?

Polllishing takes less effort for better result, imo :P

I dont know if diamond paste is common, the one I have is this. We use it at work to get a very good finnish for stuff to go in our SEM (electron microscope) as without it there isnt a very good picture.
The other one I got with a heatsink lapping kit, but wasnt much good, but that may be because I used water with it. From the buehler site it appears the non-diamond ones have much smaller size particles, and so probably take much longer to use.

This stuff, with a 500rpm 150mm wheel anyway, needs lubricant. With just water you will get burn marks on the copper. Not sure what its called but its a green liquid (not very helpfull I know)

JFettig · 10-02-2004, 10:00 PM

looks good man, little restrictive but that could be good. If it was machined flat and you dont have a ground lapping plate, dont lap it.

Also, I see where you put the screws to hold the top on, if the top isnt ridgid enough it will bow and leak on the sides.

Jon

naS · 10-02-2004, 10:12 PM

is waterpaper duct to a plate considerd "a ground lapping plate" ?

and the top will probly be made outa 13-15mm perspecs block , depends what i will find .. it should be eought aint it ?
i didnt made holes on the mid sides aswell since i wanted it to support TECs incase ill want to upgrade.

|kbn| · 10-03-2004, 06:10 AM

The channels look centered over the core of a cpu so I wouldnt think this would be much good with tecs?
If you put 2 more holes on each side, you can leave a 40mm gap between them so you will still have space for tecs

For the lid dont use accrylic. Use polycarb if you want it transparent or derlin/polyethyelene/metal if you dont. Polycarb is good but its not perfect, some people have had problems with it.
I think JFettig is right, you should a couple more holes to hold the lid better.

JFettig · 10-03-2004, 08:18 AM

Delrin will bow even more than poly, so probably not that

and about using a peltier, if you want to cool 30% of the peltier good and the rest very little, go for it

well basicly you need something to cover more of the surface of the peltier.

Jon

naS · 10-03-2004, 09:13 AM

as far as i know , peltiers conduct heat in a liniar way.. so that in the areas where the heat source is on the low the block will only have to cool the heat from the tec itself still not perfect but thats all we got :P

as far as the holes , ill pressure test them for about 20-25PSI for a cupple of hours , if ill see a leak or its bowing a lil , ill add anther set of holes

btw , i've just finished the machining programing , i might do it today if we'll have the a blco in stock

10-01-2004, 04:01 PM	#2
\|kbn\| Cooling Savant Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: W. Sussex, UK Posts: 329	Looks very nice, although a bit restrictve. Is it a center inlet block? One thing I would suggest is milling the tops of the channels to a point to increase flow but it should perform well with a big pump like that. To keep it shiny wash it with a solvent (white spirit works well, or methenol is what I used on mine) to get all the crap off and dont touch it as the salt in your skin will etch your fingerprints onto the copper. You could laquer it but I havent found one for copper that doesnt go sticky as it gets hot. If the copper is clean it shouldnt oxidise very fast.... Also get a cloth wheel and some pollishing paste, copper looks so much nicer when its got a mirror finnish __________________ Waterblocks

10-01-2004, 05:47 PM	#4
\|kbn\| Cooling Savant Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: W. Sussex, UK Posts: 329	no dont lap it (wet/dry paper) as that will ruin the flatness. I dunno how flat yours is but mine was quite flat with only light scratches from machining, but overall flat. However the base was machined aswell as the top, to reduce the thickness. Use 1200 grit paper but skip the rest before it. Then you need a cloth wheel, I think you can get them for dremmel tools, but I used a large 200mm felt one at work. then you use pollishing paste, I used 6 micron diamond paste and 1micron after, which gets it mirror shiny. http://server5.uploadit.org/files/kbn2k3-wb1base.jpg If you laquer it only do the sides and top. The wet parts of the block it isnt nessasary as it will be wet, so shouldnt have to much contact with air if you remove most of the bubbles but make sure you use distilled water. __________________ Waterblocks

10-03-2004, 06:10 AM	#11
\|kbn\| Cooling Savant Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: W. Sussex, UK Posts: 329	The channels look centered over the core of a cpu so I wouldnt think this would be much good with tecs? If you put 2 more holes on each side, you can leave a 40mm gap between them so you will still have space for tecs For the lid dont use accrylic. Use polycarb if you want it transparent or derlin/polyethyelene/metal if you dont. Polycarb is good but its not perfect, some people have had problems with it. I think JFettig is right, you should a couple more holes to hold the lid better. __________________ Waterblocks

10-03-2004, 09:13 AM	#13
naS Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: israel Posts: 63	as far as i know , peltiers conduct heat in a liniar way.. so that in the areas where the heat source is on the low the block will only have to cool the heat from the tec itself still not perfect but thats all we got :P as far as the holes , ill pressure test them for about 20-25PSI for a cupple of hours , if ill see a leak or its bowing a lil , ill add anther set of holes btw , i've just finished the machining programing , i might do it today if we'll have the a blco in stock Last edited by naS; 10-03-2004 at 09:37 AM.

10-01-2004, 04:19 PM	#3
naS Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: israel Posts: 63	yeah ofcourse , ill polish it as i finish the cover and all, so far i could find only 600-1200 water paper in jumps of 2 , working on geting even higher.. i heard somewhere about that laquer... i'll look into it , can u laquer the base and the inside aswell ? i will probly dmg the heat transfer :o as for cleaning it , thanks ill try .. thought its abit useless coz it will get all messy again in no time

10-01-2004, 06:57 PM	#5
naS Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: israel Posts: 63	well the base is fairly flat , its still have the finish from the flat endmill .. and its all black and ugly, i must lap it .. cant stand watchin it like that i think i have a cupple of cloth wheels at my pa workshop so it wont be a problem.. is that diamond pastes common or will it be hard to find ? shall i ask for "diamond polishing paste" or smt like that?

10-02-2004, 06:38 AM	#6
iakovl Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: israel Posts: 57	hey naS long time no see why didn't u post the pic's in HW forum? as ppl sad , nice block but very restrictve.

10-02-2004, 07:35 AM	#7
naS Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: israel Posts: 63	i ment too .. but no host for the pics restriction wont be a problem , for 2 reasons. A. the top will have a big enterence that will help spread the water. B. i ordered an Iwaki md 30 RZ 220V version from ebay ^_^

10-02-2004, 10:00 PM	#9
JFettig Cooling Savant Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: Willmar MN/Fargo ND Posts: 504	looks good man, little restrictive but that could be good. If it was machined flat and you dont have a ground lapping plate, dont lap it. Also, I see where you put the screws to hold the top on, if the top isnt ridgid enough it will bow and leak on the sides. Jon

10-02-2004, 10:12 PM	#10
naS Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: israel Posts: 63	is waterpaper duct to a plate considerd "a ground lapping plate" ? and the top will probly be made outa 13-15mm perspecs block , depends what i will find .. it should be eought aint it ? i didnt made holes on the mid sides aswell since i wanted it to support TECs incase ill want to upgrade.

10-03-2004, 08:18 AM	#12
JFettig Cooling Savant Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: Willmar MN/Fargo ND Posts: 504	Delrin will bow even more than poly, so probably not that and about using a peltier, if you want to cool 30% of the peltier good and the rest very little, go for it well basicly you need something to cover more of the surface of the peltier. Jon

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