Another Full Cover WB - Page 2

JFettig · 05-11-2005, 08:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Eddy_EK

FL3JM: I think that could be made...
Todaj I am going to company that has galvanization for aluminium cover/protection. I think the WB and its price will be finnished/known not later than in a week time.
For money transfer please contact me by mail. The directly transaction can not be made, sorry.

By that statement I was assuming that your galvanising it, galvanisation is zinc plating, the concept behind it is that the zinc corrodes first.

Jon

Eddy_EK · 05-11-2005, 08:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JFettig

By that statement I was assuming that your galvanising it, galvanisation is zinc plating, the concept behind it is that the zinc corrodes first.

Galvanization is a procedure for any plating (zinc, nickel, gold, silver).

jaydee · 05-11-2005, 09:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Eddy_EK

Galvanization is a procedure for any plating (zinc, nickel, gold, silver).

Umm, no. It is zinc only. Nickle, gold, silver, copper, ect is called plating. Hell that's even stated in the definition in the dictionary.

Quote:

to coat (iron or steel) with zinc; especially : to immerse in molten zinc to produce a coating of zinc-iron alloy

.

Eddy_EK · 05-11-2005, 02:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jaydee116

Umm, no. It is zinc only. Nickle, gold, silver, copper, ect is called plating. Hell that's even stated in the definition in the dictionary.

.

My mistake! My apologies! :shrug:

jaydee · 05-11-2005, 06:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Eddy_EK

My mistake! My apologies! :shrug:

Don't feel bad, I had to look it up to make sure myself.

starbuck3733t · 05-11-2005, 08:24 PM

so nickel plating it is!?

do you have any weight measurements on this block?

Eddy_EK · 05-12-2005, 02:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by starbuck3733t

so nickel plating it is!?

do you have any weight measurements on this block?

The block weights 405g.

Eddy_EK · 05-12-2005, 09:55 AM

OK!
I got aluminium part with nickel coating (nickel plated).
I am sorry but at the moment I can't give you any picture, but will tomorrow.
The aluminium block loocks well coated so I think I/we have solved that problem.

Right now I am looking for small springs for mounting the block.

FL3JM · 05-12-2005, 11:37 AM

Will it be possible to order that block but with the inlet on the top-side? It would certainly make the tubing easier, at least in my case.

Eddy_EK · 05-12-2005, 12:41 PM

I think it will be possible. But unused hole will have to be pluged with a plug.

Eddy_EK · 05-13-2005, 11:22 AM

Hi!
As I promissed, here are the pictures of nickel plated aluminium part.

I better like the aluminium look, but that can't be made...
Anyway, it looks very shiney.

FL3JM · 05-13-2005, 05:36 PM

Awesome finish man!!! Have you got any idea what one of those will cost now and when we will be able to buy one?

Eddy_EK · 05-20-2005, 11:13 AM

Hi!
Here are the pictures of FC water block of leadtek GF 6800 Ultra.
This was just for mountnig test.

I tried to mount with springs, but I think I will use just screw with silicon distance ring, which will compensate the force.

Eddy_EK · 07-01-2005, 11:53 AM

Well, I must tell you that I had serious problems with nickel coated aluminium part of WB.

The aluminium part was nickel plated once, as the company forgot my instructions, therefore they had to denickel it and nickel plate it again.
But the nickel coating was no good at all. :shrug:
I put ordinary water in block and the problems were seen in few days. I am sorry to have listened to some guys who said that eloxation will not be good enought. I think, that as many companies uses aluminium parts, it should be good for me too.

So I will try to denickel it again and than try to eloxate it. And then test it again.

EnJoY · 07-01-2005, 12:14 PM

Or just not use aluminum at all? People like H20Gun have proven that you can make a full-cover copper waterblock at only ~300 grams.

Eddy_EK · 07-02-2005, 08:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by EnJoY

Or just not use aluminum at all? People like H20Gun have proven that you can make a full-cover copper waterblock at only ~300 grams.

Yes in future I will remember that, but I have 15 pcs of them already made, therefore, I will make everything to make it work. If it won't, it will all go to trash! argh!!!!

jman1310 · 07-02-2005, 03:10 PM

as an alternative to trashing all the blocks
you could make the copper insert out of aluminium
a system made with only aluminium parts will not corrode
there's got to be some people still using aluminium CPU blocks and rads
not a great solution but better than throwing it out

Autobot · 07-02-2005, 07:23 PM

What about doing a clear anodizing on the blocks? A proper anodization is rugged as hell and won't wear away. Plus its clear, so you can see your shiny aluminum underneith. Just a thought.

Eddy_EK · 07-03-2005, 09:35 AM

Yes, anodizing & eloxating... i think it has the same meaning.... :shrug:

Xylo · 07-13-2005, 02:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by El]v[0IsEv1L

On those cards just ramsinks end up offering a boost in memory overclocking. The x800 and 6800 series have powerful memory (GDR3) that heats up when overclocked but runs surprisingly cool when running stock.

Can anyone give me any specific information on this?...I've heard that GDDR3 runs much cooler than previous video RAM, and as such, only really needs RAM sinks...??

|kbn| · 07-13-2005, 03:34 PM

That block looks amazing.
Is there anything to stop the water going from one side of the inlet to the outlet, as the oring is not in a groove, the water can go over the island in the aluminuim? or is there a oring grove on the plastic top?

With annodised aluminuim I think the worst problem is the threads which will get scratched easly when barbs are inserted - so you should either use plastic ones, or get some aluminium ones soldered (using special solder) in before plating/annodising.

You have to be carefull when you insert the copper as that is the worst place for scratches becuase if the metals are physically contacting it increases the rate of corrosion.

The rest of the annodise should not wear away as it doesnt have any contact with hard materials.

Xylo: Check the datasheets on samsungs site. they say that for the later rams, the max heat ouput is a bit higher.

starbuck3733t · 07-14-2005, 01:54 PM

if I had a 6800 series card, I'd buy it for sure. it's awesome!

Does the 6800 series card have similar problems with different heights of ram across the varying brands of card?

Eddy_EK · 09-05-2005, 02:40 PM

I had problems, and I sloved them.
I denickeled the aluminium parts and then I eloxate them.
Here are the results.
PS: the pictures corrupted a little when i resized them and compressed. Actually the WB looks eaven nicer.

Best! Eddy

killernoodle · 09-05-2005, 03:06 PM

Man, that looks soooo nice.

jaydee · 09-05-2005, 03:35 PM

yeah it looks good. What level of eloxate/anodize did you use?

05-11-2005, 08:24 PM	#31
starbuck3733t Cooling Savant Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: State College, PA Posts: 338	so nickel plating it is!? do you have any weight measurements on this block? __________________ Goliath: 3.4E@3.91/Abit IC7, Maze4 (temporarily) + custom splitter to crazy 4-way watercooling parallel loop: X800XT @ 520/1280 + AC Twinplex, AC Twinplex Northbridge, Silenstar Dual HDD Cooler, Eheim1250, '85 econoline van HC + 2x120, 1x120 exhaust - polished aluminum frame panaflo L1As, 2x18GB 10K RPM U160 SCSI, 4GB PC4000. I wanna be BladeRunner when I grow up! Project Goliath - nearing completion.

05-12-2005, 09:55 AM	#33
Eddy_EK Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Slovenia Posts: 94	OK! I got aluminium part with nickel coating (nickel plated). I am sorry but at the moment I can't give you any picture, but will tomorrow. The aluminium block loocks well coated so I think I/we have solved that problem. Right now I am looking for small springs for mounting the block. __________________ EK Water Blocks

05-12-2005, 12:41 PM	#35
Eddy_EK Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Slovenia Posts: 94	I think it will be possible. But unused hole will have to be pluged with a plug. __________________ EK Water Blocks

05-20-2005, 11:13 AM	#38
Eddy_EK Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Slovenia Posts: 94	Hi! Here are the pictures of FC water block of leadtek GF 6800 Ultra. This was just for mountnig test. I tried to mount with springs, but I think I will use just screw with silicon distance ring, which will compensate the force. __________________ EK Water Blocks

07-01-2005, 11:53 AM	#39
Eddy_EK Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Slovenia Posts: 94	Well, I must tell you that I had serious problems with nickel coated aluminium part of WB. The aluminium part was nickel plated once, as the company forgot my instructions, therefore they had to denickel it and nickel plate it again. But the nickel coating was no good at all. :shrug: I put ordinary water in block and the problems were seen in few days. I am sorry to have listened to some guys who said that eloxation will not be good enought. I think, that as many companies uses aluminium parts, it should be good for me too. So I will try to denickel it again and than try to eloxate it. And then test it again. __________________ EK Water Blocks

05-12-2005, 11:37 AM	#34
FL3JM Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Sweden Posts: 66	Will it be possible to order that block but with the inlet on the top-side? It would certainly make the tubing easier, at least in my case.

05-13-2005, 05:36 PM	#37
FL3JM Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Sweden Posts: 66	Awesome finish man!!! Have you got any idea what one of those will cost now and when we will be able to buy one?

07-01-2005, 12:14 PM	#40
EnJoY Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Massachusetts, USA Posts: 50	Or just not use aluminum at all? People like H20Gun have proven that you can make a full-cover copper waterblock at only ~300 grams. __________________ \| Co-Founder & Administrator @ VλLVeForums.Com \| Site Director & Editor in Chief @ HL2Online.Com \| News Editor & Reviewer @ techPowerUp.Com \| AMD Athlon 64 3200+ Venice @ 2800MHz (10x280) 1.60v \| DFI LanParty UT NF4 Ultra-D - BIOS: 5/10-2FIX \| (2x512MB) Corsair PC2700 BH6 2-2-2-5 @ 265MHz (DDR530) 3.5v \| BBA X850 XT @ 635/640 - Omega 5.7 \| Watercooling on the way... The New 2x1GB/1x1GB OC Database!

07-02-2005, 03:10 PM	#42
jman1310 Cooling Savant Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: Sunny Florida Posts: 246	as an alternative to trashing all the blocks you could make the copper insert out of aluminium a system made with only aluminium parts will not corrode there's got to be some people still using aluminium CPU blocks and rads not a great solution but better than throwing it out

07-02-2005, 07:23 PM	#43
Autobot Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Portland, Oregon Posts: 29	What about doing a clear anodizing on the blocks? A proper anodization is rugged as hell and won't wear away. Plus its clear, so you can see your shiny aluminum underneith. Just a thought.

07-03-2005, 09:35 AM	#44
Eddy_EK Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Slovenia Posts: 94	Yes, anodizing & eloxating... i think it has the same meaning.... :shrug: __________________ EK Water Blocks

07-13-2005, 03:34 PM	#46
\|kbn\| Cooling Savant Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: W. Sussex, UK Posts: 329	That block looks amazing. Is there anything to stop the water going from one side of the inlet to the outlet, as the oring is not in a groove, the water can go over the island in the aluminuim? or is there a oring grove on the plastic top? With annodised aluminuim I think the worst problem is the threads which will get scratched easly when barbs are inserted - so you should either use plastic ones, or get some aluminium ones soldered (using special solder) in before plating/annodising. You have to be carefull when you insert the copper as that is the worst place for scratches becuase if the metals are physically contacting it increases the rate of corrosion. The rest of the annodise should not wear away as it doesnt have any contact with hard materials. Xylo: Check the datasheets on samsungs site. they say that for the later rams, the max heat ouput is a bit higher. __________________ Waterblocks

07-14-2005, 01:54 PM	#47
starbuck3733t Cooling Savant Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: State College, PA Posts: 338	if I had a 6800 series card, I'd buy it for sure. it's awesome! Does the 6800 series card have similar problems with different heights of ram across the varying brands of card? __________________ Goliath: 3.4E@3.91/Abit IC7, Maze4 (temporarily) + custom splitter to crazy 4-way watercooling parallel loop: X800XT @ 520/1280 + AC Twinplex, AC Twinplex Northbridge, Silenstar Dual HDD Cooler, Eheim1250, '85 econoline van HC + 2x120, 1x120 exhaust - polished aluminum frame panaflo L1As, 2x18GB 10K RPM U160 SCSI, 4GB PC4000. I wanna be BladeRunner when I grow up! Project Goliath - nearing completion.

09-05-2005, 03:06 PM	#49
killernoodle Thermophile Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Charlotte, NC Posts: 1,014	Man, that looks soooo nice. __________________ I have a nice computer.

09-05-2005, 03:35 PM	#50
jaydee Put up or Shut Up Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Spokane WA Posts: 6,506	yeah it looks good. What level of eloxate/anodize did you use?

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