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Unread 03-31-2002, 06:26 PM   #1
artemis0007
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Case Painting Help!!!!!!!!

Hi all!

I've been following Beav's case painting guide, but I (think I) have a problem.

After I applied the primer and sanded, I applied the Rust-O-Leum Gloss Black spray paint and let it dry for 24 hours. I then commenced the sanding (600 and 1500 grit wet sand). Well, when it dried the paint looked splotchy (the paint wasn't a slick shiny black anymore, it has light and dark black spots). Sooooo, I thought that I sanded too far and re-sprayed another coat. 24 hours laters I sanded again (1500 grit wet sand with dishwashing soap), but very lightly. Anyways, it still looks kinda of splotchy. But what I find weird is that even though the paint job looks splotchy, I can feel the gloss coat so I'm not so sure if I even sanded down to the primer.

So, is the glossy black paint after sanding supposed to look splotchy or dull after sanding?

Sorry I have no pics, the earthlink camera I have doesn't want to take a picture of the "splotchiness".

THANKS FOR THE HELP!!!!!
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Unread 04-01-2002, 05:01 PM   #2
Haddy
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like splotchie in rows? or splotchie like some spots are duller then others?
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Unread 04-02-2002, 01:15 AM   #3
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Splotchy like some parts are duller than others.
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Unread 04-02-2002, 01:26 AM   #4
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u sure it wuz flat when u put the primer and stuff on...i would suggest starting over....make sure its flat and that u use a sanding block....u might have sanded certin parts more then others...
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Unread 04-02-2002, 11:27 AM   #5
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The panels were flat and I did use a sanding block.
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Unread 04-02-2002, 12:30 PM   #6
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hmm i dunno maybe try some diff auto paint
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Unread 04-04-2002, 01:56 PM   #7
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when you say splotchy, how big are the splotches? are you talking little dimples that still appear shiney? or large areas. without seeing it, it's hard to tell, but small dimples are usually a result of using spray can paint and it's inherrant uneven spray patterns. One way around this is to wetsand/clean between coats.

It could also be the the paint can. Krylon and rust-o makes decent paint, but it's usually better from my expierience, to spend the extra dollar/per can and get the better krylon / rust-o (not the white cans) for the gloss black. The paint seems to be of better consistancy. Ive been real happy with the HD design line, I've been using that, and then Automotive acryllic clear coat.
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Unread 04-04-2002, 04:46 PM   #8
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Well I'm using the Rust-O-Leum white spray paint cans, so that might be it. Over the weekend I'll wet sand the suckers some more to see what comes of it. Thanks!
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Unread 04-04-2002, 05:09 PM   #9
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I didn't mention, but... 600 grit between coats is good.
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Unread 04-04-2002, 07:50 PM   #10
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Well, I've been sanding with the 600 grit, but it was pretty light sanding (I didn't put too much pressure because I was afraid of going through the layer of paint). I guess I can sand it a bit harder. Thanks again! I'll let you guys know how it turned out after the weekend.
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Unread 04-04-2002, 10:07 PM   #11
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I've seen debates on this, but I was taught to use a cross hatch pattern when sanding...
noth south, east west, nw se, ne sw etc
as opposed to sanding in circles.

sand more, not harder.
harder tends to make it uneven because you really can't apply even pressure. not to mention you're elbow gets tired and starts to burn from the workout.

let us know how it turns out.
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Unread 04-07-2002, 07:01 PM   #12
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UPDATE:

Hi all!
Over the weekend, I was able to apply another coat of gloss black (this time I used the Rust-O-Leum Painter's Touch spray can instead of the white can version). Lots of sanding and waiting for paint to dry.

Anyways, I was wet sanding today (not very hard), but the darn things turned out kind of splotchy again. I was wondering if you are SUPPOSED to sand off the gloss on the paint? Every time I sand the darn things, the gloss comes off (now I know its not primer because I accidentally dropped my panel on the ground. I caught it but not before the corner paint got chipped off and showed a lovely light gray color).

Here are some pics:






If you cannot see pics:
http://www.geocities.com/artemis597/picspage.html


By the way:
Just right after I put on the black coat, the wind picked up and some little bugs got stuck in the paint. Anyways, they left little "pock" marks in the paint. Should I sand them out using 220 grit or should I just apply another coat?

THANKS FOR ALL INPUT!!!!!!!!!!

Last edited by artemis0007; 04-07-2002 at 07:08 PM.
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Unread 04-07-2002, 11:24 PM   #13
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The reality is it's not a big deal. They will buff out and you will hardly see them.

Each can of spray paint is different, even among the same brand/type/color. Getting decent & even flow is pretty much an exercise in futility.

If you want the smoothest possible finish from spray can be prepared to use more paint and time. Just remember most people are not going to notice anyhow. They'll go 'damn nice paint job' but they wont know it's smoother, and a lot wouldn't be able to tell if you had a side-by-side comparison. So why do it? The same reason we overclock and put an sv24 into the glove compartment of an 81 VW rabbit.

One way to do it. (And why I charge triple for it)

<Remember this is all at your own risk. I am not responsible. Nor am I responsible for damages>

In your case you'll need to remove the paint and primer. Use paint stripper for better results (edit: DO NOT use stripper on plastic parts. It will soften the plastic and may even warp it or melt it.) the can stuff in the auto section will do. Just be sure to wear big rubber gloves and dispose of everything properly.

Now you’re at the bare steel, you washed/rinsed it with soap and water right? Thoroughly? Good. Put that thing on something that will allow it to lay flat and can get wet. (i.e. not a cardboard box) sand with 300 - 400. The metal is pretty smooth; you just want to rough it up so the primer will stick better.

Holding the can
Hold the can at a 30 to 45 angle to the piece your painting and keeping the spay pattern perpendicular as you move the can.
Start before the piece, move left to right (other way if your left handed). This is actually important. It is easier for your wrist to release tension evenly than to apply it evenly. Be prepared to take a sideways step if the piece is large or your arms are short.

Wet sanding.
Soak your paper. And use really warm water. Use a sanding bock. The weight of your had is enough pressure.

Edge painting.
Feather your edges. I will do an edge coat let it dry, and then paint as normal, doing the edges again, and then a final edging. It's a bit over kill though.

My Painting technique. Or 3 coats is not a magic number.
I do a lot of thin coats. I don’t really count them it kind of an ‘that looks right’ thing. It’s probably close to 6 or 7 on the primer; 9 or 10 on the color; and the clear coat really depends on how much abuse I think the case will get and where. I usually do extra edging on drive slots on the bezel.
Lightly wet sand (The idea is to make the paint even, not take it off) with 600 between each coat. Thoroughly wash and dry. And continue. When you get to the final coat of your color (or clear if your clear coating) use a really light sanding with 800 to knock off any dust, rinse to get any clumps off, then use a light sanding of 1000 grit, rinse to get any clumps off, then a light sanding with 1500. Wash and rinse. Get your favorite rubbing compound and go to town. If hand rubbing start with at least 2500 grit if you got a buffer or a low rpm drill with a buff pad use at least 3000. If you go to an auto supply store of auto paint store, hell even a body shop may sell it you can get this compound that is like 10,000-30,000 grit. It looks like soy sauce.


Plastic face plates.
Here 3 coats is the magic number.
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Last edited by gogo; 04-08-2002 at 11:31 AM.
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Unread 04-07-2002, 11:31 PM   #14
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The above method is costly BTW. expect to use a lot of sand paper. and I forgot to mention to test each cans paint flow on some neighbors car or cardboard first. this will let you know how fast/slow to move.
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Unread 04-08-2002, 10:07 PM   #15
artemis0007
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When I apply the clear coat, will it look shiny/glossy again?
The reason I'm asking is because when I sanded the gloss black, it looks like I just sanded some of the gloss off, but not (much) paint. So I would guess (because I've never done this before) that applying the clear coat would make the paint job look glossy again (like before the sanding).

Thanks for all of the input!
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Unread 04-08-2002, 10:29 PM   #16
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yes it will make it look glossy again, so will buffing it out. You didn't actually remove the gloss, you just really scratched it up with sanding.
the gloss isn't an extra layer that sits on top. It is through out the black paint.
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Unread 04-09-2002, 03:36 PM   #17
artemis0007
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So should I buff the black paint *berfore* putting on the clear coat or should I just go on to the clear coat and buff later?
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Unread 04-09-2002, 07:04 PM   #18
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clear coat, then buff
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Unread 04-09-2002, 09:20 PM   #19
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thanks!
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