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General Liquid/Water Cooling Discussion For discussion about Full Cooling System kits, or general cooling topics. Keep specific cooling items like pumps, radiators, etc... in their specific forums.

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Unread 03-28-2002, 08:58 AM   #1
ECUPirate
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Default General confusion over sizes of hoses & fittings

OK. I've wanted to watercool for a long time, and I just can't wait anymore! But I have a couple of questions about hose sizes, etc.
I've decided on an Eheim pump, either the 1048 or the 1250. Noise is definitely an issue, but I want decent performance w/ the option to add chipset blocks, etc. I understand the 1048 is silent, what about the 1250?
According to eheim's website, the 1048 has 2 half inch fittings, while the 1250 has one 3/4 and one 1/2" connection. A lot of kits sell the 1048 pump and include 3/8" hose. WTF? How does this all work? I was inclined to use 1/2" hose throughout the system (get 1/2" fittings on the W/B), but I'm getting confused. If I get the 1250, what hose do I use?
Also, I found a heater core at Advance Auto for $US 23, but it looked like it had 5/8" fittings. I've read that 3/8" silicone tube will fit over 1/2 OD connections. Will 1/2 ID silicone fit over 5/8 OD, or do I have to pay the bucks to get a premodded core from DDen?
FANS: the comair/rotron looks sweet, but it's more than I need (also too loud). If you take the 24V model and plug it into a standard molex @ 12V, what will happen? How noisy would that be... or should I just stick w/ my good old panaflo L1A's.
Oh.. do I really need a reservoir?
If someone would take a minute to spell out what I need to buy, and what size to buy it in, that would be fantastic.
Help a newbie out...
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my pimpin' rig: ...previously poorly cooled...
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Maze 3, DDen GF3 block, Eheim 1250, econoline van HC, 1/2" hose w/ 5/8" fittings Comair 172mm fan
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Unread 03-28-2002, 09:28 AM   #2
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I have a 1250 and other than vibrational noise from being placed on my desk it is silent. I got a towel to place underneath it.

The Eheims use standard pipe threads for the fittings: You can uncrew the stock fittings and use any size that you want. I would suggest nylon fittings to avoid cracking the housing of the pump by overtightening brass barbs. Just add a bit of teflon tape on the threads (or goop) and you will be set.

As far as confusion over fittings goes, I can remember this clearly when I first started water cooling. Barb fittings have two values: one for the thread side and one for the hose barb side. Most pumps take either 3/8" NPT or 1/2" NPT for the thread side, and the barbs are listed according to their outside diamter (so that they can be chosen for tubing with an inside diameter that is the same. So if the Eheim has 2 3/8" NPT fittings on it stock, you would want to replace them with either 3/8"NPT x 3/8 barb, 3/8"NPT x 1/2 barb, or 3/8"NPT x 5/8 barb depending on the tubing.

If you use silicone tubing, I suggest sizing up on the fittings. For example, 3/8" silicone will fit on 1/2" hose barbs very snugly. With a setup like that you can get away without hose clamps (tho at your own risk) and more importantly the 1/2" barbs have a much larger inside diameter (~3/8") than their 3/8" versions (~1/4"). So you are eliminating one of the big resistances in the loop. I use 5/8" barbs with 1/2" silicone and am quite happy with the results. You will not find 5/8" barbs that fit on a waterblock tho (blocks are 1/4" npt).

As for the Rotron, I have a 235cfm Patriot that is a 24V fan. It runs fine at 12V and is quieter than 2 M1A Panaflos on my core.
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Unread 03-28-2002, 01:48 PM   #3
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Ok... so what size fittings does the 1250 have? 3/8 or 1/2" NPT? ..and can I just pick up the fittings at the hardware store?
If waterblocks are 1/4" NPT, does it really help to have 1/2" barbs?

So... check my parts list.

Eheim 1250 w/ unknown barbs.. eventually 5/8 though.
the heater core from the auto shop w/ 5/8 fittings
a water block w/ 1/2" fittings
1/2" silicone hose
enough hose clamps to go around
water wetter & distilled water
one 24v rotron
something that will turn the coolant blue...

Do I really need a reservoir?

Oh geez.. if I use a rotron to suck air through the Rad and out of the case, what am I going to use to get air into the case... I don't want to turn my PC into a giant air filter... I guess I could plug most of the holes and put a filtered 120mm in the side of the case.
What are the quietest 80mm fans on the market? How about 92's and 120's? I've had panaflo 120 L1As before.
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Does a radioactive cat have 18 half lifes? --Kenny

my pimpin' rig: ...previously poorly cooled...
486DX-2 66mhz @ 75mhz, 4Mb ram, shared, 256Mb hard drive
Onboard VGA, watercooled, of course
16-color monitor, labtec speakers, 28kbs USRobotics modem
Windows XP (think about it)
Maze 3, DDen GF3 block, Eheim 1250, econoline van HC, 1/2" hose w/ 5/8" fittings Comair 172mm fan
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Unread 03-28-2002, 04:59 PM   #4
Brad
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silicone 1/2" will fit over 5/8" without a problem.

I'd get the 1250, that heatercore from the car place, big comair from mpja.com, DDen Maze3, and use 1/2" throughout
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Unread 03-28-2002, 05:53 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally posted by Brad
silicone 1/2" will fit over 5/8" without a problem.

I'd get the 1250, that heatercore from the car place, big comair from mpja.com, DDen Maze3, and use 1/2" throughout
Right like Brad said, my 1/2" silicon tubing fits easily over the 5/8"barb, don't waste you money (as I did), with the DD conversion kit.

I took a piece of foam pipe insulation,cut a piece off about 5" long or so, slit it, opened it up, and glued it to the bottom of my Eheim 1250 with rubber cement. My Eheim is mounted to the bottom of my Antec 840 with 8-32 screws and wing nuts. I can hear a little humm (sp?) but that's it.

Jim
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Unread 03-28-2002, 07:13 PM   #6
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I would still recommend hose clamps of some sort. Either the worm drives or snap clamps from Danger Den. They will give you peace of mind. It tried placing 1/2 ID silicone tubing from DD onto 1/2 barbs and had leaking during my test runs. Not a single problem after I placed my snap clamps on. Except I had to use 2 pairs of snap clamps on the connections to the BIX. I had a leak when I only used 1 clamp for that connection. Strange.
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Unread 03-28-2002, 07:45 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally posted by Triton
I would still recommend hose clamps of some sort. Either the worm drives or snap clamps from Danger Den. They will give you peace of mind. It tried placing 1/2 ID silicone tubing from DD onto 1/2 barbs and had leaking during my test runs. Not a single problem after I placed my snap clamps on. Except I had to use 2 pairs of snap clamps on the connections to the BIX. I had a leak when I only used 1 clamp for that connection. Strange.
Definitely, I agree you need clamps also, sorry for the omission.

All my connections are clamped with those squeeze style plastic clamps.

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Unread 03-28-2002, 07:57 PM   #8
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I don't have any clamps on my 5/8" barbs with the 1/2" ID tubing. Never had a leak.
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Unread 03-28-2002, 10:38 PM   #9
Marco
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I use vinyl tubing, 1/2" on 1/2" barbs, never had a leak either (sure, doesn't mean it won't happen )

One thing to note: The confusion with barb thread size and barb barb size stems from the fact that the ID is measured on the thread side, whereas the OD is measured on the barb size, because, logically, it corresponds to the ID of the tubing used. 3/8" thread side matches 1/2" hose side, and 1/2" thread side matches 5/8" hose side (actually, not sure about the latter one, could be 3/4", but whatever it is, I use some of it in my loop )
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Unread 03-28-2002, 11:18 PM   #10
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with my 1/2" over 5/8", it's too hard to pull off, I doubt it would ever leak, I don't run it with barbs normally
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