|
|
General Liquid/Water Cooling Discussion For discussion about Full Cooling System kits, or general cooling topics. Keep specific cooling items like pumps, radiators, etc... in their specific forums. |
Thread Tools |
07-23-2002, 03:04 PM | #51 | |
Responsible for 2%
of all the posts here. Join Date: May 2002
Location: Texas, U.S.A.
Posts: 8,302
|
Quote:
The fins definitely don't need to be that big, of course! It would have to be assembled, possibly brazed, it really can't be machined. It could be built as-is, but with a clear top, and barbs on either side, and lights, and... |
|
07-23-2002, 03:48 PM | #52 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: May 2002
Location: home
Posts: 365
|
Actually, I think it's pretty comical. I asked a while back at another forum if anyone had enclosed an SK6 with a water jacket. Someone actually had, but not in the manner I would have preferred. As noted, you would want flow moving parallel with the fins and this design didn't really address that.
Because of the differences between air and water, the fins of such a block for water use should be comparatively shorter and thicker than for use with water. It still comes back to balancing flow loss and velocity, conduction through the metal, surface area for the water, etc., etc. Reference here. Last edited by myv65; 07-23-2002 at 03:51 PM. |
07-23-2002, 04:00 PM | #53 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Canada
Posts: 247
|
I think there is a pretty important difference between that attempt myv65, and my idea - on the one you linked to the space directly over the CPU is empty - where the heatsink clip would normally be. In my proposed one, that is where all fins start from. I've tried to optimize the points I think are most important with it, and I can't come up with anything better...
1. As little copper as possible between the water and the core 2. As much surface area as possible between the copper and the water 3. Good copper paths to conduct heat quickly away from the core - without insulating the core in a mass of copper. 4. As little resistance to water-flow as possible With air cooling the heat spreads throughout the heatsink very fast compared to how much heat is dissipated into the air. With water-cooling, as long as fresh cool water is in supply we don't need that much heatsink material to spread it out. I almost think the best waterblock would be the one that is perfectly straight, with no regard for surface area - just put maximum flow-rate over a piece of copper virtually hair-thin to keep the CPU dry (as close as you can get to just putting water on the core itself) - but after reading of a few attempts at water right on the core, I think it works better with some type of metal heat spreader. |
07-23-2002, 04:32 PM | #54 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: May 2002
Location: home
Posts: 365
|
Cova,
Yeah, I like your idea better. That SK6 mod I linked was not mine and not done in the way I would like. I would be interested in hearing how yours turns out if you give it a go. |
07-23-2002, 04:33 PM | #55 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Canada
Posts: 247
|
Afraid I don't have the tools or materials to even attempt building such a thing. Perhaps Volenti will try something like this inside his dual-block and we'll get an idea how it works.
|
07-23-2002, 09:38 PM | #56 | |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: in a nice cool spot
Posts: 427
|
Quote:
I've looked closley at that zalman cooler several times. I may try to make something based on a similar principle but with thicker fins, probably 1mm or a bit thicker depending on what copper stock I can dig up, Cova must have been reading my mind when he drew that picture, since that's almost exactly how I'd like to make it. I also fully agree with Cova's 4 principles, we'll see if I can fullfill them with the next block revision...
__________________
feel free to icq/msn me, I'm always willing to toss around ideas. Last edited by Volenti; 07-23-2002 at 09:43 PM. |
|
07-24-2002, 03:10 AM | #57 |
Thermophile
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Nuu Zeeelin
Posts: 3,175
|
I've always had the idea of something like that in the back of my mind. Zalman/Thermalright/Dynatron/Coolermaster and even more manufacturers would all be possible to use.
I own a Dynatron 60fin heatsink, what I would do would be something like what I've attached. It would be about 90mm x 60mm, the width is due to the twin 1/2" barbs. My main concern is leaking
__________________
2x P3 1100's at 1400, Abit VP6, 2x Corsair 256mb PC150 sticks, 20gb 'cuda ATA-III, 2x 40gb 'cuda ATA-IV in raid 0. 20" Trinitron. No fans 2x 2400+ at 2288mhz (16.0 x 143), Iwill MPX2, 2x Kingmax PC-3200 256mb sticks, 4x 20gb 60gxp in Raid 5 on a Promise SX6000. Asus Ti4200 320/630. Cooled by Water |
07-24-2002, 03:17 AM | #58 |
Thermophile
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Nuu Zeeelin
Posts: 3,175
|
forgot the image
__________________
2x P3 1100's at 1400, Abit VP6, 2x Corsair 256mb PC150 sticks, 20gb 'cuda ATA-III, 2x 40gb 'cuda ATA-IV in raid 0. 20" Trinitron. No fans 2x 2400+ at 2288mhz (16.0 x 143), Iwill MPX2, 2x Kingmax PC-3200 256mb sticks, 4x 20gb 60gxp in Raid 5 on a Promise SX6000. Asus Ti4200 320/630. Cooled by Water |
07-24-2002, 03:17 AM | #59 |
Thermophile
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Nuu Zeeelin
Posts: 3,175
|
forgot the image. It's a whole 4kb!
__________________
2x P3 1100's at 1400, Abit VP6, 2x Corsair 256mb PC150 sticks, 20gb 'cuda ATA-III, 2x 40gb 'cuda ATA-IV in raid 0. 20" Trinitron. No fans 2x 2400+ at 2288mhz (16.0 x 143), Iwill MPX2, 2x Kingmax PC-3200 256mb sticks, 4x 20gb 60gxp in Raid 5 on a Promise SX6000. Asus Ti4200 320/630. Cooled by Water |
07-24-2002, 05:04 AM | #60 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Slovenia
Posts: 468
|
Thanks for tips Fixitt and Sanjuro. (why, oh why, do you still use imperial instead of metric system )
bigben2k, I'm not using aluminium, for outer block, I'll use plexy, with cone soldered to copper base but on curcumference not the bottom, the bottom of the cone will be in direct contact with cpu die. First results this weekend, if I get some time to make plexy blocks this friday.
__________________
[My ftp, with lots of pics, hope to be home page someday |
07-24-2002, 12:24 PM | #61 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Denmark
Posts: 31
|
The WC company i've worked for, used blocks that looked like this inside:
Very effective design! Inlet in one end, and outlet in the other, no mazes, spirals and stuff, just a HUGE surface area.
__________________
AMD XP1700@2400MHz (1.925Vcore (11x200), 1.5GB DDR3200, Epox 8RDA3+, Seagate Barracuda IV 80GB, Seagate 7200.2 120GB, Seagate 7200.2 160GB, WW ClearTop (CPU) Twinplex GF4 (GPU) w/ 2x120mm on heatercore from Accord '92 and Eheim 1048. To be further upgraded! (RAID 5, HD/PSU/NB cooling etc.) |
07-24-2002, 12:43 PM | #62 | |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Sterling Hts., MI
Posts: 496
|
Quote:
Bob
__________________
Sarcasm is yet another of the free services we offer! |
|
07-24-2002, 02:19 PM | #63 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Denmark
Posts: 31
|
As I remember it, it was soldered with silversolder (or whatever it is called in english - anyway, the heattransfer between the fins and the baseplate was equal or better that pure copper, because of the silversolder (or whatever it's called
More pics attached for the interested:
__________________
AMD XP1700@2400MHz (1.925Vcore (11x200), 1.5GB DDR3200, Epox 8RDA3+, Seagate Barracuda IV 80GB, Seagate 7200.2 120GB, Seagate 7200.2 160GB, WW ClearTop (CPU) Twinplex GF4 (GPU) w/ 2x120mm on heatercore from Accord '92 and Eheim 1048. To be further upgraded! (RAID 5, HD/PSU/NB cooling etc.) |
07-24-2002, 02:20 PM | #64 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Denmark
Posts: 31
|
Front view:
__________________
AMD XP1700@2400MHz (1.925Vcore (11x200), 1.5GB DDR3200, Epox 8RDA3+, Seagate Barracuda IV 80GB, Seagate 7200.2 120GB, Seagate 7200.2 160GB, WW ClearTop (CPU) Twinplex GF4 (GPU) w/ 2x120mm on heatercore from Accord '92 and Eheim 1048. To be further upgraded! (RAID 5, HD/PSU/NB cooling etc.) |
07-24-2002, 02:42 PM | #65 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: classified
Posts: 534
|
very cool stuff in this thread, myv65 explination of thermal properties of Cu and Al was fantastic. I hope you are teaching thermodynamics somewhere, cause that was one of the best deffinitions I have seen.
__________________
...i hurt... do me a favor, disconect me... they can re-work me but i'll never be top of the line again ...i'd rather be nothing... |
07-24-2002, 06:36 PM | #66 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Dione, sector 4s1256
Posts: 852
|
my own TOP-NOTCH-BLOCK....
If I may is my tested and trusted way to get the best heat transfer possible with minimal effort and machinery ... It also incorporates VDFC technology.
__________________
There is no Spoon.... |
07-24-2002, 06:43 PM | #67 | |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: May 2002
Location: home
Posts: 365
|
Quote:
|
|
07-25-2002, 04:34 AM | #68 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: in a nice cool spot
Posts: 427
|
Ok I've made up a central peice to insert into position in the water block where the core contacts, comments/opinions?
__________________
feel free to icq/msn me, I'm always willing to toss around ideas. |
07-25-2002, 05:32 AM | #69 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: on da case
Posts: 933
|
dunno if this his anything to do with it, but this block just seems like utter crap. is about the same principle as some of u are trying. what is wrong with this block then:
http://www.hardocp.com/article.html?art=MzI5 |
07-25-2002, 06:41 AM | #70 | |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: in a nice cool spot
Posts: 427
|
Quote:
A cross-drilled alloy block would handily out perform it let alone a copper one. Anyway, I and the other DIY'ers activley exprimenting with new designs already have either commercial or traditional style DIY blocks to compare to, if what we come up with performs worse than what we already have than we can figure out why it performs worse and modify the design accordingly.
__________________
feel free to icq/msn me, I'm always willing to toss around ideas. |
|
07-25-2002, 10:24 AM | #71 | |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Canada
Posts: 247
|
Quote:
|
|
07-25-2002, 12:18 PM | #72 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: KS
Posts: 374
|
How would you be able to successfully put the "fan" into a waterblock? It is soldered together, so if you solder it you risk letting those blades spread apart. It would be extremely hard to glue into some acrylic as well. At least a leak free glue... I really like the idea, i just cannot think of a good way to implement it.
\ \ / / <<-- What about a block like this? with water flowing into \__/ the channel. You would only have 1 right angle, and maximum die contact.
__________________
MeltMan Lurker Supreme! |
07-25-2002, 12:28 PM | #73 |
Responsible for 2%
of all the posts here. Join Date: May 2002
Location: Texas, U.S.A.
Posts: 8,302
|
I think brazing might fix that.
|
07-25-2002, 01:44 PM | #74 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: KS
Posts: 374
|
You mean like melting the copper together with a real mans torch?
__________________
MeltMan Lurker Supreme! |
07-25-2002, 01:59 PM | #75 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Canada
Posts: 247
|
I think you'd have to solder it down - find some creative way to attach a clamp to the base of the fan part to hold it together, and just melt all the solder in the entire thing with a torch or something with it sitting on the WB base-plate. And I'm not sure how well solder conducts heat, so it should be as thin a layer as possible between the fan-thing and the base.
|
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests) | |
|
|