Light duty mill from a drill press project

killernoodle · 06-02-2004, 04:29 PM

Ok guys, I'm sick of wanting a good light duty mill but only having enough money for a small drill press, so I have decided to do a little project. I plan on using a small drill press (pillar drill for those people from europe) and converting it into a small mill so I can mill plastics and a little copper. I know all you guys dont recommend doing this, so I have constructed a plan to fix the limitations of the drill:

I know that they are not very structurally sturdy. I believe this problem lies in people using the table for milling. I plan on removing the table and using the base to mount a new XY slide on. I will weld the base to the pole thing to provide structural rigidity there, and will probably weld the head to the pole if there is no other way of getting the head close to the base. Next I will have to do something about the tapered fitting for the actual drill part. I have had experiences with this actually sliding out when a side load is introduced, so I may have to feed a bolt from the top to hold it in or freeze the unit and heat the head (possibly add some loctite or something) and hammer the tapered bit up tightly. Next, I will have to install the XY table, something I will probably have to find on ebay or something. I was looking at this one in particular:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...sPageName=WDVW
I will either bolt it or weld it to the base for structural rigidity.

The next problem to tackle will be the Z axis, which will need to be depth adjustable and lockable so it wont move.

I am aiming for something as rigid and powerful as JFettig's little mill, but I'm not making any guarentees. If it is going to be light duty, Im talking <1mm deep passes with a small end mill. That is really all I hope for. Going out to HD and Lowes today to scope out a drill press that is suitable. Hopefully I can find a good one at Lowes so I can utilize my mom's discount card. W00T 15% off!

If you have any other problems with my plan or suggestions (fears as well), please lemme know

Wish me luck.

JFettig · 06-02-2004, 04:33 PM

well, the main problem is they have roller bearings. If you replaced the roller bearings with ball bearings, I bet it would be tons better. Another thing, you cannot mill with a drill chuck, its horrible for tollerances, and terrible for holding end mills, they will suck right out of the chuck.

How much are you looking to spend on this project? Check out harborfreight.com and homier.com, they have a few light duty MILL/drilling machines.

Jon

killernoodle · 06-02-2004, 04:46 PM

I have a 2 ton press in my shop, and a crap load of bearings from my dad's old helicopter, so I might be able to make do. If not, ebay probably has some bearings. Im looking at less than $200. Everything else I can find is $300. I'll inspect some of the drill presses in Lowes and see what they are made of. If I can find out if there are roller or ball bearings I'll let you guys know.

SysCrusher · 06-02-2004, 04:47 PM

We have a harborfreight here in town and they got about 5 mills. One monster heavy duty one and the cheapest one was a decent size for about $400. Table, arbor and all. The only thing you would need is a z-axis which I didn't see there. I have no idea where to get those. That would get your basic milling done. Nothing special but it would work. They had some decent carbide mill sets for about $72.

I looked on their website but I couldn't find anything.

Drill chucks and milling I don't think interchange but I'm not sure about that.

killernoodle · 06-02-2004, 06:48 PM

Ok, went out to Lowes and found a nice Delta 10" drill press and picked it up for $95. Seems pretty rigid and the bearings are nice and smooth (a crapload better than my dad's massive 500lb drill press) It also seems that the only tapered fitting goes directly into the chuck, so that should be easy to heat up and hammer on. I doubt it would come off if I used a little loctite too (maybe JB weld?) The chuck seems pretty solid and very well made. It looks like quite a bit of machine time went into making it. Very well built little thing. Motor is smooth and has no vibration. Going to set up this little thing on it today, it is a little dial thing that measures deflection in a rotating object up to .0001", that should see if it is running true.

I'm definitely going to have to take the band saw to the post because it is way too tall for milling. That should remove a lot of the rigidity problems right there. I'm also going to weld it to the head unit because There is no way the two little allen screws can hold it in there well.

I'll take some pics of the thing tonight. No turning back now

killernoodle · 06-02-2004, 08:43 PM

What do you guys think of this?
Or this, but they look like the same thing.

Its in metric, so that is good

I would like some input on this, I'm not a professional

killernoodle · 06-02-2004, 09:16 PM

Also, I plan on making waterblocks using super thin fins. Would these slitting saws work well? Or do I need something thicker?

JFettig · 06-03-2004, 07:58 AM

Hey, for slitting saws, they might be a little flimsy and small. What I have used in the past are reinforced cutting wheels for the dremel. just chuck up the mandrel and it works quite well.

Jon

killernoodle · 06-03-2004, 08:26 AM

Hmm, interesting. What kind of RPMS do you have to turn to make those effective? The max of my drill press is 3100, but I could probably get it past 5k with a pulley change.

JFettig · 06-03-2004, 09:00 AM

well as fast as you can, I used 2500rpm on mine.

You definately could get past 5k with a pully change, I currently have my mill at 6700rpm but I have almost no torque.
I also had to do a bearing change to get that kind of speed, otherwize my bearings would have melted

Im sure your drill press will have that problem too.

Jon

killernoodle · 06-03-2004, 09:39 AM

Hmm, so I guess I'll just leave it

Yeah, I checked the bearings and they are ball bearings. I could only see one on each side, but that doesnt mean there arent any in the middle. What kinda HP is your mill pushing?

killernoodle · 06-03-2004, 11:04 AM

JFettig · 06-03-2004, 03:17 PM

its only 3/4hp I would like to get a 2hp motor if I could find one.

I dont think a motor change is necessary for you.

Jon

killernoodle · 06-03-2004, 04:55 PM

Hmm, tested it on an old slide table we have lying around. I was making 1mm passes with a 4mm end mill in aluminum and ran into some vibration problems. I believe it is originating in the actual slider mechanism because it does not seem to be in very close tolerances with the head. I'm not sure if I can fix this problem, so the project may be scrapped. The bearings work fine and dont rattle, the frame doesnt mind the side load either, it is just that one place that is letting everything go.
I'm gonna take a look at it, but if I cant figure out a fix than I may just have to buy the SEIG X1, cause that is the only thing remotely in my price range.

SysCrusher · 06-03-2004, 05:55 PM

Sure it isn't the cross vice your using? The ones on the milling tables are very fine adjusting with no play what so ever. Regular cross vices have a bit of play in them.

killernoodle · 06-03-2004, 06:19 PM

The vibration isnt in the base, it is in the head.

Smiley · 06-03-2004, 06:41 PM

what about some thing like this it might work better for you
http://www.homier.com/itemdetail.asp?i=03989&c=11

SysCrusher · 06-03-2004, 07:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by killernoodle

On mine, I can tighten the spindle up. Has a bolt running through the front where you can tighten it. I'm not sure if that one has that or not. It looks it but I can't tell for sure because of that switch and cover is right there where their usually at. I don't know if you want to start messing with it since you might still be able to return it.

killernoodle · 06-03-2004, 07:49 PM

Hmm, looks kinda cheap. Anyone had experience with speedway mills?

killernoodle · 06-03-2004, 07:55 PM

Errm, shipping is 150 to my house. I dont think so.

killernoodle · 06-03-2004, 08:05 PM

Thought this was interesting: looking for small mini mills and found JFettig's work on his CNC plastered all over CNCzone.com... the internet isnt as big as I thought

I'm really liking that little homier mill, especially for 280. Maybe I can get it with only a little shipping expense

killernoodle · 06-03-2004, 08:37 PM

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=47158
This looks like a better deal, free shipping

JFettig · 06-04-2004, 11:55 AM

well killernoodle, theres one thing you havent yet realized. That is that you will spend over what you pay for that little machine on just tooling. vices, collets, end mills etc.

Jon

06-02-2004, 04:29 PM	#1
killernoodle Thermophile Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Charlotte, NC Posts: 1,014	Light duty mill from a drill press project Ok guys, I'm sick of wanting a good light duty mill but only having enough money for a small drill press, so I have decided to do a little project. I plan on using a small drill press (pillar drill for those people from europe) and converting it into a small mill so I can mill plastics and a little copper. I know all you guys dont recommend doing this, so I have constructed a plan to fix the limitations of the drill: I know that they are not very structurally sturdy. I believe this problem lies in people using the table for milling. I plan on removing the table and using the base to mount a new XY slide on. I will weld the base to the pole thing to provide structural rigidity there, and will probably weld the head to the pole if there is no other way of getting the head close to the base. Next I will have to do something about the tapered fitting for the actual drill part. I have had experiences with this actually sliding out when a side load is introduced, so I may have to feed a bolt from the top to hold it in or freeze the unit and heat the head (possibly add some loctite or something) and hammer the tapered bit up tightly. Next, I will have to install the XY table, something I will probably have to find on ebay or something. I was looking at this one in particular: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...sPageName=WDVW I will either bolt it or weld it to the base for structural rigidity. The next problem to tackle will be the Z axis, which will need to be depth adjustable and lockable so it wont move. I am aiming for something as rigid and powerful as JFettig's little mill, but I'm not making any guarentees. If it is going to be light duty, Im talking <1mm deep passes with a small end mill. That is really all I hope for. Going out to HD and Lowes today to scope out a drill press that is suitable. Hopefully I can find a good one at Lowes so I can utilize my mom's discount card. W00T 15% off! If you have any other problems with my plan or suggestions (fears as well), please lemme know Wish me luck. __________________ I have a nice computer.

06-02-2004, 04:46 PM	#3
killernoodle Thermophile Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Charlotte, NC Posts: 1,014	I have a 2 ton press in my shop, and a crap load of bearings from my dad's old helicopter, so I might be able to make do. If not, ebay probably has some bearings. Im looking at less than $200. Everything else I can find is $300. I'll inspect some of the drill presses in Lowes and see what they are made of. If I can find out if there are roller or ball bearings I'll let you guys know. __________________ I have a nice computer.

06-02-2004, 06:48 PM	#5
killernoodle Thermophile Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Charlotte, NC Posts: 1,014	Ok, went out to Lowes and found a nice Delta 10" drill press and picked it up for $95. Seems pretty rigid and the bearings are nice and smooth (a crapload better than my dad's massive 500lb drill press) It also seems that the only tapered fitting goes directly into the chuck, so that should be easy to heat up and hammer on. I doubt it would come off if I used a little loctite too (maybe JB weld?) The chuck seems pretty solid and very well made. It looks like quite a bit of machine time went into making it. Very well built little thing. Motor is smooth and has no vibration. Going to set up this little thing on it today, it is a little dial thing that measures deflection in a rotating object up to .0001", that should see if it is running true. I'm definitely going to have to take the band saw to the post because it is way too tall for milling. That should remove a lot of the rigidity problems right there. I'm also going to weld it to the head unit because There is no way the two little allen screws can hold it in there well. I'll take some pics of the thing tonight. No turning back now __________________ I have a nice computer.

06-02-2004, 08:43 PM	#6
killernoodle Thermophile Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Charlotte, NC Posts: 1,014	What do you guys think of this? Or this, but they look like the same thing. Its in metric, so that is good I would like some input on this, I'm not a professional __________________ I have a nice computer.

06-02-2004, 09:16 PM	#7
killernoodle Thermophile Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Charlotte, NC Posts: 1,014	Also, I plan on making waterblocks using super thin fins. Would these slitting saws work well? Or do I need something thicker? __________________ I have a nice computer.

06-02-2004, 04:33 PM	#2
JFettig Cooling Savant Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: Willmar MN/Fargo ND Posts: 504	well, the main problem is they have roller bearings. If you replaced the roller bearings with ball bearings, I bet it would be tons better. Another thing, you cannot mill with a drill chuck, its horrible for tollerances, and terrible for holding end mills, they will suck right out of the chuck. How much are you looking to spend on this project? Check out harborfreight.com and homier.com, they have a few light duty MILL/drilling machines. Jon

06-02-2004, 04:47 PM	#4
SysCrusher Cooling Savant Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Florida Posts: 256	We have a harborfreight here in town and they got about 5 mills. One monster heavy duty one and the cheapest one was a decent size for about $400. Table, arbor and all. The only thing you would need is a z-axis which I didn't see there. I have no idea where to get those. That would get your basic milling done. Nothing special but it would work. They had some decent carbide mill sets for about $72. I looked on their website but I couldn't find anything. Drill chucks and milling I don't think interchange but I'm not sure about that.

06-03-2004, 07:58 AM	#8
JFettig Cooling Savant Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: Willmar MN/Fargo ND Posts: 504	Hey, for slitting saws, they might be a little flimsy and small. What I have used in the past are reinforced cutting wheels for the dremel. just chuck up the mandrel and it works quite well. Jon

06-03-2004, 08:26 AM	#9
killernoodle Thermophile Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Charlotte, NC Posts: 1,014	Hmm, interesting. What kind of RPMS do you have to turn to make those effective? The max of my drill press is 3100, but I could probably get it past 5k with a pulley change. __________________ I have a nice computer.

06-03-2004, 09:00 AM	#10
JFettig Cooling Savant Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: Willmar MN/Fargo ND Posts: 504	well as fast as you can, I used 2500rpm on mine. You definately could get past 5k with a pully change, I currently have my mill at 6700rpm but I have almost no torque. I also had to do a bearing change to get that kind of speed, otherwize my bearings would have melted Im sure your drill press will have that problem too. Jon

06-03-2004, 09:39 AM	#11
killernoodle Thermophile Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Charlotte, NC Posts: 1,014	Hmm, so I guess I'll just leave it Yeah, I checked the bearings and they are ball bearings. I could only see one on each side, but that doesnt mean there arent any in the middle. What kinda HP is your mill pushing? __________________ I have a nice computer.

06-03-2004, 11:04 AM	#12
killernoodle Thermophile Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Charlotte, NC Posts: 1,014	__________________ I have a nice computer.

06-03-2004, 03:17 PM	#13
JFettig Cooling Savant Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: Willmar MN/Fargo ND Posts: 504	its only 3/4hp I would like to get a 2hp motor if I could find one. I dont think a motor change is necessary for you. Jon

06-03-2004, 04:55 PM	#14
killernoodle Thermophile Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Charlotte, NC Posts: 1,014	Hmm, tested it on an old slide table we have lying around. I was making 1mm passes with a 4mm end mill in aluminum and ran into some vibration problems. I believe it is originating in the actual slider mechanism because it does not seem to be in very close tolerances with the head. I'm not sure if I can fix this problem, so the project may be scrapped. The bearings work fine and dont rattle, the frame doesnt mind the side load either, it is just that one place that is letting everything go. I'm gonna take a look at it, but if I cant figure out a fix than I may just have to buy the SEIG X1, cause that is the only thing remotely in my price range. __________________ I have a nice computer.

06-03-2004, 05:55 PM	#15
SysCrusher Cooling Savant Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Florida Posts: 256	Sure it isn't the cross vice your using? The ones on the milling tables are very fine adjusting with no play what so ever. Regular cross vices have a bit of play in them.

06-03-2004, 06:19 PM	#16
killernoodle Thermophile Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Charlotte, NC Posts: 1,014	The vibration isnt in the base, it is in the head. __________________ I have a nice computer.

06-03-2004, 06:41 PM	#17
Smiley Cooling Neophyte Join Date: May 2002 Location: Collinsville Ill Posts: 31	what about some thing like this it might work better for you http://www.homier.com/itemdetail.asp?i=03989&c=11

06-03-2004, 07:49 PM	#19
killernoodle Thermophile Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Charlotte, NC Posts: 1,014	Hmm, looks kinda cheap. Anyone had experience with speedway mills? __________________ I have a nice computer.

06-03-2004, 07:55 PM	#20
killernoodle Thermophile Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Charlotte, NC Posts: 1,014	Errm, shipping is 150 to my house. I dont think so. __________________ I have a nice computer.

06-03-2004, 08:05 PM	#21
killernoodle Thermophile Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Charlotte, NC Posts: 1,014	Thought this was interesting: looking for small mini mills and found JFettig's work on his CNC plastered all over CNCzone.com... the internet isnt as big as I thought I'm really liking that little homier mill, especially for 280. Maybe I can get it with only a little shipping expense __________________ I have a nice computer.

06-03-2004, 08:37 PM	#22
killernoodle Thermophile Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Charlotte, NC Posts: 1,014	http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=47158 This looks like a better deal, free shipping __________________ I have a nice computer.

06-04-2004, 11:55 AM	#23
JFettig Cooling Savant Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: Willmar MN/Fargo ND Posts: 504	well killernoodle, theres one thing you havent yet realized. That is that you will spend over what you pay for that little machine on just tooling. vices, collets, end mills etc. Jon

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