Wattercooled XP1900+ at 50C

[the creature]

I got a Epoxy 8k3a+ (the one that support 333), and I belive that this card uses the internal diode.
The system isen't oc.

I got a Maze2, heatercore and a enheim 1024.

The CPU is 20C over the wattertemp, wich is 30C.

Is this normal, what do you get?

[Volenti]

assuming it is reading off the internal diode that my be a little high, but you're probably not going to get much less than 15 degrees above water temp. Though I havn't had personal experience with the XP athlons, jumped straight from a classic 1.2T-bird to the 1.8a P4.

here's a tip, boot up to bios and play with the tension on the water block bolts untill you get the lowest temp, sometimes the waterblock can look flat on the core but may in fact be tilted ever so slightly.

[the creature]

I'm going to try it out, how much should I tighten the bolts?

[Volenti]

well you'll have to use you judgement, without knowing what mounting hardware you're using it's impossible to say what tension is right, think about how much force the clips on the air cooled heatsinks apply to the core and try to emulate that.

Just be really carefull when adjusting not to let the block tip too far one way or another, remember the MTBD (mean time before death) of an XP without the core contacting the block is a second or 2.

if the temps don't seem to change very quickly then the motherboard may only be using the socket thermister, test this by turning the pump off, and letting the water block heat up a bit, 5-10 degrees, then turn the pump back on, the temp should drop very quickly (5-10sec) back to normal running temp.

[airspirit]

Lap the hell out of your block and use nail polish remover to clean ALL residue from both the block and chip. Let them air dry for 10-15 minutes for the acetone to evaporate (don't use that perfumed SH!T). Apply a TINY amount of AS3 to the block side, tinier amount to the chip (should just make it slightly sparkly), and meet them together. Use springs on your bolts to help level it. Use water wetter or something similar in your coolant to lessen the boundary layer in your system. I'd bet your block isn't lapped nearly well enough and you're using WAY too much goop (throw away the damnable thermal pads). Good luck, dude.

[Quickmcj]

It is an internal diode....therefor the high temp.

[bigben2k]

That temp is too high, but your CPU is not in danger, yet...

Follow Airspirit's recommendations, and you should do better. You can follow up on the Acetone by cleaning with alcohol (friction alcohol, anything more than 90%).

...and please let us know!

[tokamac]

yea that sounds high... I have the same motherboard and am using Al heatsink air cooling and am getting 45 C. (Internal probe says 47, external says 42, so shrug whatever) and mine is an 1800 overclocked to 1.67Ghz (2000XP). so yea ain't something right.

Tokamac

[the creature]

Originally posted by bigben2k
...and please let us know!

I'll do

[airspirit]

Just as a comparison, my computer is in a room that hovers around 80-100F all day long. With a 1900+@1850/1.95V running a 3/8" copper block and BIXr2 at about 350GPH actual I'm getting about 47C under extreme load. I'm running a KT3 Ultra, which I believe is the same chipset as your mobo.

Edit: my machine is such a nice heat producer that I'm thinking about removing the breaker for my baseboard in that room for this winter. I'll just leave my puter on 24/7 and the room will probably still hover around 65-70F. The air coming off my rad is WARM.

[benrich]

i have a 1900+ on an A7V333 which reads the internal diode. during the night, my temps are idle 47.7, and full load 52.7. during the day its worse, 50 idle, and 55 full load.

my brother in the next room which is slightly cooler, is getting getting 47 idle during the day, with $10 speez aircooling, on an xp 1700. although that is not from the internal diode.

i've been upset about this ever since i got the kit setup, i've had it for about 6 months. its the innovatek kit from highspeedpc. i used AS3, and tryed very hard to apply it exactly as the instructions at the AS website say.

i'm really getting sick of it, i think im finally gonna take it appart, and try to redo the AS, it sounds like from what airspirit is saying, i may have used too much. in my case i dont think the placement of the block is a prob, the innovatek mounting hardware pushes directly down right on the middle of the block.

edit: its also possible, it could partly be due to the air in my system. it seems almost impossible to bleed all the air out of this system. i've tried everything. i think it has something to do with the res being so damn small. the inlet about an inch from the outlet, which is the pump stem, it just sucks any air that comes in the res right back through the system. highspeed included some little pieces of sponge your suppose to use to fix this, but it does nothing for me. i'm thinking about building a new res with a cylinder from usplastics, and some of these awesome little fittings from high speed. if i drill some holes is the cylinder what would be the best thing to seal around the fittings, that can resist the heat and water... silicone?

[the creature]

I have got the temperatur down to around 40C, 42-43 with load.
The temperatur is 15C above watter temperatur, so it wasen't too impressive

I have used 9 sheets of 400, 600 and 800 to get the block flat, and I did relocate the hose so the watter from the radiator now go right to the block.

I'm going to do as Volenti said and see if I can lower the temps some more by adjusting the bolts.

[airspirit]

The better you lap your block, the less AS3 you need. Because the pits/scratches/irregularities are smaller, you need less goop to fill those pits. On a block lapped over 1000 grit, you literally only need the sheen from the silver goop for it to be effective.

As far as tightening those bolts, I hope you are spring loaded. If you don't have the springs to help "load-level" your block, you run a serious risk of crushing your core doing this. One full turn of a bolt without a spring buffer is easily enough pressure to turn your chip into silicon dust. Food for thought.

If you still want to balance (you can get springs at a local hardware shop if you don't have them ... look for ones with medium tension ... you should be able to compress them relatively easily with your hand, but they shouldn't be totally slack, either), tip your case/board so that it is parallel with the ground (if possible). Tighten all four bolts against the springs until the block is tight against the core and cannot be moved (don't play hercules here ... we're talking can't be moved with about 5-10lbs force). With your box on its side, boot it up and go into BIOS. Go to the temp screen and slowly tighten one corner at a time by small amounts (1/2-1/4 turn at a time) and wait about a minute or two to see how it affects it. Slowly tune it on all four corners (if necessary) until you get the best temp you can get. Once done, stand the box up and watch the temp gauge. You may need to tighten the top two bolts a touch to compensate for gravity against the block, and viola, you have a "perfectly" tuned machine.

Depending on the setup of your machine, you always want the res directly before the pump (if possible), and the block or rad immediately after it. If you use a res, probably putting the block immediately after it is best. If you just use a little air trap, you can use either the rad or the block after it. That should also help your temps if you have your system arranged differently.

[the creature]

First, I had written a long msg and what do I get, some login errors leading to a blank page. That suck!, so it's just going to be short this time.

I did turn a little on the springs last night, and now I get 35-37C on idle (needs to be toned) and the same on full load.
9-10C above ambient.
Now the benefits of watter cooling is showing.

A decresment of 10C aren't bad at all, thanks

By the way, I use the set (springs) that did come with the Maze2.