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Water Block Design / Construction Building your own block? Need info on designing one? Heres where to do it |
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02-20-2003, 12:41 PM | #1 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Ontario. Canada
Posts: 159
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more waterblocks!! and inovative designs
found a site with a lot of waterblock pics,
there are a few interesting designs on the site like the one below here is the link to the site, go through all the links, http://www.insanewb.com/waterblock/waterblock.htm
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02-20-2003, 01:42 PM | #2 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Oct 2002
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That doesn't seem really good.
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02-20-2003, 01:55 PM | #3 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Ashland
Posts: 296
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That block looks like it would probably perform fairly well as long as there is enough surface to actually transfer the heat into the water. Im curious to know how it actually performs. Anyone know?
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02-20-2003, 02:22 PM | #4 |
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It's a minimalistic design.
The problem with it is that it relies on the core to remain straight, and the core wasn't designed to do that. A quick tug on the hose could crush the core. |
02-20-2003, 02:35 PM | #5 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Wind Gap, PA
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GOODNESS those blocks are shiny. Even shinyier(?) than BladeRunner's!!!
And I like that design. Like a lot. I realize it poses a problem for long term use & the possibility of dislodging, but it's perfect. The chip don't get hot, so don't cool it already!! Only the core. Perfect.
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02-20-2003, 02:38 PM | #6 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Australia
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What would make that design good would be if it were a cap style of thing. That sat down around the core. So that it was just a few microns off touching the ceramic or organic packagin.
_______ |!!water!!| |!!water!!| |______| | |core| | |
02-20-2003, 04:57 PM | #7 | |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Ashland
Posts: 296
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Quote:
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02-20-2003, 05:08 PM | #8 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: USA
Posts: 248
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lol thats definetly an interesting design. I think you would want REALLY high flow rates(of course, there isnt much resistance present)for it to work well.
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02-20-2003, 08:31 PM | #9 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Desert City in California
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That lil cooler up top reminds me of an old design. Was being sold by this guy Chip. He had some good blocks, but messed alot of ppl over, including me. I am trying to remember the site.....Oh ya I remember: http://overclock-watercool.com . The site does'nt work anymore.....
Does no one remember? Chip... The silver blocks and stuff.... Anyway most of those blocks are a tired design, and cheap copies of other designs. Brian W
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02-20-2003, 09:11 PM | #10 |
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A dual edge sword...
If you rely on the clip to keep it straight, then it would probably end up being off, even a little bit, and just enough to affect the performance. A couple of microns would do it. The block really needs to rest on the pads, there's no way around it, but it doesn't need to be larger than the pads... |
02-21-2003, 02:05 PM | #11 |
Put up or Shut Up
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Spokane WA
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Anyone remember the UnaBlock. I belive it's creator is around here somewhere?
http://becooling.safeshopper.com/6/117.htm?61 Last edited by jaydee116; 02-21-2003 at 02:29 PM. |
02-21-2003, 03:13 PM | #12 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Portugal, Europe
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I was thinking (i do that sometimes ) , and looking at that "minimalistic block" , i came up with a question.
Why not use a small copper plate , like a cold plate, and maintain the rest of the small block? To keep it stable. But one piece only, or welded but with a square hole in it. Here's my paint endeavour: With enough thickness , wouldnt it make it stable?. PS: Im not aiming for the "better temps" thing .
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02-21-2003, 05:10 PM | #13 |
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That would help, yes.
There are many options: the block (in the first post) is about as big as a block really needs to be (well, maybe a little bigger), so the rest of it is for structural integrity, so even a plastic could be used, given that it doesn't flex too much. This extension only needs to contact the pads, so even an "X" should work. |
02-21-2003, 06:57 PM | #14 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Chippewa Falls, Wisconsin
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I'm not quite sure what to make of his finishes. Some of the blocks do look great, but a lot of the other images on the site show blocks that appear to have been cut in a single pass, while feeding waaaaaay too fast.
I do like his idea for an HDD cooler, though: turn it into a 5 1/4" bay adapter, and cool through the (typically) flat sides. Then again, since my primary heat producers (2x IBM 36Z15s) have nice, flat tops, I'm planning on going the standard route. |
02-21-2003, 08:56 PM | #15 |
Thermophile
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: The deserts of Tucson, Az
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Make the copper full sized so that it hits the 4 pads and the 4 bolt holes like a normal block. Theres no reason a block like that has to be made of a tiny piece, just so long as its a straight through channel.
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02-21-2003, 09:41 PM | #16 | |
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Quote:
It doesn't have to be straight through either: a Cathar style block that size could work extremely well. |
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