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General Liquid/Water Cooling Discussion For discussion about Full Cooling System kits, or general cooling topics. Keep specific cooling items like pumps, radiators, etc... in their specific forums. |
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05-12-2002, 12:53 PM | #1 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Belgique
Posts: 25
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Black ICE2 + Air-Trap + Z4 = ...
Just some words to present my liquid cooling to you.
It is composed of Black ICE2 + air-trap + Z4 + Eheim pump. More photographs and information (in French) : here Pictures A+ CornerJack Last edited by CornerJack; 05-16-2002 at 10:59 AM. |
05-12-2002, 01:49 PM | #2 |
Thermophile
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Nuu Zeeelin
Posts: 3,175
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all very nice, I like the duct work at the back, but that waterblock must be holding you back heaps, what are your temps like? (assuming you have had a system in there)
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05-12-2002, 02:09 PM | #3 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Belgique
Posts: 25
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Before placing a configuration inside, I test initially the circuit
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05-12-2002, 02:40 PM | #4 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: May 2001
Location: here
Posts: 494
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you know all those transitions from tubing to the metal stuff are gonna be killing your flow right? the less transitions you have the better your flow will be(obviously).
--Matt |
05-12-2002, 03:37 PM | #5 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Dayton, Ohio
Posts: 836
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looks nice
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05-12-2002, 04:03 PM | #6 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: belgium
Posts: 41
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It remind me of turbokeus case, belgians do make nice watercooling rigs
I better gonna live up against the expectations Nice rig |
05-12-2002, 04:05 PM | #7 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Dayton, Ohio
Posts: 836
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lol, i need to find some valves that small..
speaking of which, what is the ID of your tubing? what kind of tubing is it? what did you make your duct out of, plexi? |
05-12-2002, 04:11 PM | #8 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Belgique
Posts: 25
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The air-trap is a tube plexi 45 cm in diameter.
With regard to the connections, they are connections for the gas pipelines. ++ CornerJack |
05-12-2002, 04:32 PM | #9 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Dayton, Ohio
Posts: 836
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well, i read the article. to answer my own question, the duct is made of aluminum, with just one side being plexiglass (to see the chrome-plated BI2).
CornerJack, "relier tous les ventilateurs Ã* mon digitaldoc5, placer les composants de mon pc (MSI 845 ULTRA, P4 1.8A GHz,...), placer les néons, terminer les emplacements de baies 5"1/4" and post pics when your done!! |
05-12-2002, 06:15 PM | #10 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Apr 2000
Location: Bremerton, WA
Posts: 514
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Seems like the air trap might be prone to sucking the air back through the loop. Does it take long to get the air out?
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05-12-2002, 09:53 PM | #11 |
Slacking more than your weird uncle
Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: San Diego, CA (UCSD) / Los Angeles, CA (home)
Posts: 1,605
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Fllow Rate Schmlo rate... I like the copper tubing .
-Kev
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05-13-2002, 08:13 AM | #12 |
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Tres joli, CornerJack!
C'est la deuxieme fois que je voit cette air-trap, et ca vient d'Europe encore! Can't wait to see what you'll do with that funky slanted case! |
05-13-2002, 09:54 AM | #13 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Belgique
Posts: 25
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Thanks
CornerJack |
05-13-2002, 11:03 AM | #14 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Jan 2002
Posts: 107
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no one's mentioned it yet, so I might be mistaken, but shouldn't the air trap be above everything else? I remember the long cooling article said something about that.
Really clean setup tho, killer looks, although judging from what I've read, you should get another wb |
05-13-2002, 12:07 PM | #15 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Dayton, Ohio
Posts: 836
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i dont really think it matters...
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05-13-2002, 01:29 PM | #16 | |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Mississippi
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Quote:
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05-13-2002, 03:49 PM | #17 | |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Apr 2000
Location: Bremerton, WA
Posts: 514
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Quote:
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05-13-2002, 04:08 PM | #18 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Slovenia
Posts: 468
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Hi, very nice setup, but I also think there is possible problem with air trapped in the system. The problem is the position of the rad. , ok if you have the pump running it should work and air gets out of the system (never mind the position of the trap, but let say it does), but if you turn the pump off, the wonderful G force does its job, some part of water will run from the rad. and trapped air inside again, so every time you turn on the pump it will take some time to fill the system again.
Just a thought, maybe you've got that thing somehow worked out and I'm wrong. Again congrats for beautiful setup. |
05-13-2002, 05:45 PM | #19 | |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Mississippi
Posts: 434
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Quote:
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05-13-2002, 08:16 PM | #20 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Umeå, Sweden
Posts: 98
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Well, then I'll say it again. Joe was wrong when he said that.
If all you have in your system is water and the air has been collected in the air-trap (if it works correctly when the pump is running), then you can have the air-trap anywhere. There is simply NO WAY that air could move from the air trap to another point that is higher up in your system. Think about it. The only problem that could arise is if you have a low flow when the system is running which means that you can't bring all the air out of the radiator by the rush of water, but that is usually not a problem. Also, you might have a problem when you turn off the pump and the openings to the air-trap aren't both below water level, as the air can escape up into one of the openings. Not having both openings below water level is a design flaw anyway, it won't trap air in the air-trap. Doh. And also, this is what amazingly few people get at first, the water will not leak out of the system even if your air-trap is the lowest point in your system. UNLESS, you have a leak which can let air into the system. Basically the air pressure will keep the water column in your system where it's at. If you have a straw handy, try sucking some jummy liquid to fill the straw, and then place a finger over the top opening - see how the liquid stays in the straw? Same thing.
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05-13-2002, 08:25 PM | #21 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Jan 2002
Posts: 107
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having never built/used an airtrap, would the airtrap have to be completely sealed to prevent liquid from flowing out the top? I mean, since liquids tend to equalize its level within a container, if the air in the airtrap could leak out, say, the top of the airtrap, then would the liquid in the tubing and the radiator force the liquid in the airtrap to rise in an effort to reach the same level?
I guess if this is the case, then you just have one more thing to deal with about on top of everything else sorry if that's confusing |
05-13-2002, 08:54 PM | #22 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Dayton, Ohio
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nope, you can have the top of the air-trap open. air pressure keeps it from overflowing.
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05-14-2002, 08:18 AM | #23 |
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Actually, it's more like water pressure, not air pressure.
In order for any liquid to flow out of that system, there would have to be something to replace the water: as this is a closed system, there just isn't anything (unless there's a leak). Now I call this a closed system, even though it has an air opening, because any coolant flowing one way, will be replaced by the same coolant coming back, simply because of the way the air trap is designed. If however, the system wasn't closed (i.e. the fluid level got low enough to allow air in the system), then colant would flow down from the rad (sucking air in from the air trap), and level off at the top of the air trap. so if the air trap can hold that much fluid, great. Otherwise, you've got a mess on your hands. |
05-14-2002, 10:28 AM | #24 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Belgique
Posts: 25
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Here a photograph which shows you the open air-trap whereas the circuit turns.
It git of a closed loop and even if the radiator is higher than the air-trap, it is not in contact with the air! ++ CornerJack |
05-14-2002, 12:45 PM | #25 |
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Yup... Joe was wrong (sorry Haddy!).
As long as there is a decent flow, the coolant should drag any air to the air trap, but do watch out for setups using something like a Swiftech: make sure you fill those pockets of trapped air. (Many waterblocks suffer from this issue, but the Swiftech makes it more obvious. The Swiftech WB is a fine product) |
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