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General Liquid/Water Cooling Discussion For discussion about Full Cooling System kits, or general cooling topics. Keep specific cooling items like pumps, radiators, etc... in their specific forums. |
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09-07-2001, 09:08 PM | #1 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Wisconsin USA
Posts: 36
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Beehive Waterblock With Pictures
Here's my homemade beehive waterblock. The base is 3/16" thick copper cut to 2" x 2". It's got 36 pins of #10 copper wire press fit into drilled holes in the base. The 1-1/2" pipe cap and hose barbs come from Home Depot. I should be giving it the first test next week.
Before assembly. After soldering it together.
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09-07-2001, 11:33 PM | #2 |
Thermophile
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: The deserts of Tucson, Az
Posts: 1,264
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Looks pretty good, but I'd think it wouldn't run much water directly over the core and a lot over the tips of the pins. Be sure to post how it works. I've always wondered by waterblocks used mazes instead of fins and pins.
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09-08-2001, 01:16 AM | #3 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Central Florida
Posts: 231
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Actually from what I have tested (NOT much but a bit) Pin fin blocks dont perform all that much better. The thing is that with long pins like in the one he made. The heat will make it MAYBE 1/4" up the pin.
Also it's a bitch to machine And drilling and press fitting is to time consuming for the .2C difference |
09-08-2001, 04:49 PM | #4 | |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Wisconsin USA
Posts: 36
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Quote:
The Volcano II HSF keeps the CPU at 52 degrees C during normal use and up to 59 degrees C at it's hottest. I'd be happy with 10 degrees cooler.
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09-08-2001, 05:44 PM | #5 | |||
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Wisconsin USA
Posts: 36
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Quote:
After I looked at his article today, I noticed that I may have placed the inlet in the wrong place. He has his in the center of the pin array, but mine is off to one side. Hmmm, center seems like a good idea. I've got one more piece of copper base, so it looks like a trip to Home Depot for the parts to make another one. Version 2.0! $5.00 should buy two hose barbs, a pipe cap, and some copper wire. Quote:
Quote:
It did take a day to make, but it was a day well spent with power tools.
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09-08-2001, 07:15 PM | #6 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Chesterfield Uk
Posts: 459
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You may find the general discussion in this topic interesting if you missed it. I didn't actually find it until later but part of my cooling project is quoted on the forth page
H2O directly on core These were my findings:- My personal opinion is you want the water or coolant touching the core for best cooling, this is not really a viable option, so the next best thing, (other than silver), is the thinnest possible copper separating the water form the core. I have an OverClockers Hideout copper water block . This is a very well Cnc’d solid copper block with a copper lid that is attached with screws and sealed with some hard black “stuff”. After taking it apart, (something I can never resist), I found in measuring with digital callipers the base part was 4.6mm thick. Not happy with this much copper separating the CPU core from the coolant I had the base machined down carefully so it was just under 1mm thin. It then required some minor lapping due to it denting in the middle a bit during the machining. This fairly simple mod has given around 5° to 6°C lower max CPU temp over all. I have an old CPU here, (gig T-Bird), and I'll be trying out running the water actually on the core soon to see if it helps or makes a deference, just for madness sake
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09-08-2001, 11:39 PM | #7 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Central Florida
Posts: 231
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No, I doubt the pins being that length hurt anything at all. What I meant by the making of it was that in a production environment it's not that cost effective to make one.
I've been looking at doing a hybrid of one of my blocks with a pin type block. I would use some threaded rod though. This is just a long (3 foot) rod that has threads cut on the outside of it. I'd use that instead of the wire. The other good thing is you could maybe tap the bottom plate and screw the rods in with some artic silver epoxy on the threads. This would actually give more surface area contact from the bottom plate to the pins although the arctic silver barrier would probrably negate that. Also because of the threading on the pins you would get about twice the surface area. |
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